Wallas exaust water leak

B

bridma

New member
In heavy seas I get about half a cup of water in the locker where the sink and stove are. I have tracked it down to the Wallas exaust exiting the hull. I think it is the join where the heat resistant webbing is joined on to the stainless thru-hull. I took this apart and reasembled it tighter, also used a smear of heat resistant caulking (but can not remember the name of the product). End result is, I still have a leak. I do not see any point in taking this joint apart again as I know I will not be able to put it back any tighter than it is at present. I do not want to take the stainless thru-hull out and try to put it back, I'm a bit of a dunce when it comes to this sort of stuff. I'm thinking of coating everything liberally in heat resistant caulking. Any one know of a good product? Anyone else run into this problem?

Martin.
 
We had the same thing happening. Finally used some high temperature gasket sealant and that "seems" to have fixed it. I coated the inside of the flexible pipe up about 5 inches (trying to get in all the grooves) and slid the pipe back on. The leak was pretty constant when in bigger seas and the last few times when we thought it should be leaking, it was not.

Good luck.
 
I rehabbed my Wallas recently including the exhaust hose. I ended up replacing the entire flexible metal exhaust piping. It hadn't been removed since the boat was new since I usually just disconnect the piping at the stove if I need to work on the stove. Anyway, on removal I discovered that small amounts of water would pool at the bend between the hull fitting and where the pipe joined it. The orientation of the hull fitting was horizontal facing the stern of the boat. Since the boat tends to slope towards the stern whether at rest or on plane that allowed water to collect there, albeit not very much. It did however start a corrosion process, and once I reworked the hull fitting to face vertical, when I went to reshape the bend it split open at the corrosion spot. Needless to say I am very happy I caught it before it corroded all the way thru which would flood the air space in the sink cabinet then travel into the interior boat air space. *** On reviewing the instructions for installation that came with the stove it clearly states the hull fitting should have the pipe going VERTICAL.*** I could not find a local supplier for that 1 1/8" stainless pipe so I called Scan Marine who sells it by the foot. I also added the heat resistant webbing which was never installed on my boat. The connection point is double clamped without sealant, no leaks. This is the original stove from 2003.

On rereading your post....if the fitting itself is leaking look to see if you have a cork gasket under your fitting on the outside of the hull. It is just thick enough that when you tighten down the fitting to the hull it seals but prevents the fitting from actually resting against the gel coat.
 
Hey Martin sorry to hear about the leak
Ever think about trying calm water boating? May be worth a go??!!
Ross on Pacific Wanderer had similar issues and put a ss vent cover on the outside to deflect water pics in his album I believe
 
I, also, had the water leaking at the exhaust/hull connection.
I removed the through hull, cleaned it and used high temp gasket sealer inside and outside of the connection. I coated the inside of the flex tube with the high temp sealer. No more trouble with water getting in at that location.
 
I have had some "moisture" down there under the sink, but have not really found the source as yet. I like Georges idea of calm water boating, but "sometimes, a man has just gotta do what a mans gotta do". I have heard something back there gargling on occasion, and I know it's not "Diesel" my pet rock.

I would be interested in the specifics of the sealer that is being used, bore than just high temp. Brand, amount needed etc.

Thanks

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

JC_Lately_SleepyC_Flat_Blue_070.thumb.jpg
 
hardee":31wo3np5 said:
I would be interested in the specifics of the sealer that is being used, bore than just high temp. Brand, amount needed etc.
Click to expand...

I used Pro Seal Black RTV Silicone Sealant, low volatile formula. It doesn't take much- a small tube 3 oz. tube was more than enough.

Roger
 
hardee":39zp8514 said:
I have had some "moisture" down there under the sink, but have not really found the source as yet. <stuff clipped>
Harvey
SleepyC
Click to expand...

One possible source (depending on how you use your boat and sink) is that any water on the counter can find it's way below through the gaps around the Wallas. On my boat, I have a cutting board over the sink most of the time. After the water is turned off (or after you quit pumping with your foot), there's still a little water in the faucet. This can leak out on the cutting board and then wander below through the gaps under the edges of the Wallas. Probably not your problem, but I thought I'd mention it.
 
bridma":1xydfzoe said:
In heavy seas I get about half a cup of water in the locker where the sink and stove are. I have tracked it down to the Wallas exaust exiting the hull. I think it is the join where the heat resistant webbing is joined on to the stainless thru-hull.
Click to expand...

When I moved my Wallas stove a couple of years ago the folks at Scan Marine told me to be sure to use a lot of heat resistant RV sealant on the inside of the through hull exhaust fitting because the exhaust pipe is spot welded to the exterior fitting leaving small gaps which allow water to seep in around it. When I removed the through hull and looked at it from the inside I could see what they were talking about. Where the exhaust pipe attached to the fitting there were three spot welds. When I reinstalled the through hull I made sure to push RV sealant into the gaps with my finger and then pretty much fill the back side of the fitting wiping away excess with a paper towel as I tightened it down. So far no leaks.
 
I had the same problem on the way to the Friday Harbor gathering. I have now removed the vent fitting. The factory in 2004 was using a sealant that looks like BoatLife type and that is what mine was sealed with.

There was sealant between the gasket and the hull but not the gasket and fitting. The clean up I have to do is on the hull. I will see if I can get a replacement gasket from Scan Marine. I am thinking I will also use the Hi-temp gasket sealer (rtv silicon). That is what Scan recommends. Not sure if I should seal both sides of the gasket but will make sure to seal the pipe around the spot welds - this may have been where my leak was.

My vent was installed with #8 machine screws that were about 2.5 inches long. I don't wee any reason for the long screw so will replace with shorter ones.

Any suggestions welcome.

Steve
 
Although you can get a gasket from Scan, it is fairly easy to cut a new gasket out of cork/rubber material. I have done that several times. I then use Hi Temp RTV silicone sealant--one of the few times for silicone sealant on the boat.
 
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