I used my heater last night for about ten hours when it stopped working. When I noticed that it was not working the yellow and red light on the panel were blinking rapidly. After a short while it turns itself off. If I try to restart it both of the lights blink and then it turns itself off. I did notice that the small fan under the stove top not the long fan that comes on when the lid is down, starts to spin when I start the heater for a few seconds then it stops and the lights start blinking. Anybody have any advice?
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Wallace stove heater does not work in my 2009 Cruiser.
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amy and karl
New member
Disconnect the power plug from the underside of the stove. Wait a moment then reconnect. Hopefully it will start after that. Have had to do that a few times on my folks 25. It was an 07.
Karl
Karl
That's most likely the unit "locking" itself after two unsuccessful starts. This can be caused by turning it on and off two times too quickly. To unlock:
1. Switch the power ON (lock blinking).
2. Disconnect the main power cord (blinking stops).
3. Reconnect the main power cord (the yellow LED lights up for 1-3
seconds).
4. When the yellow LED has gone out, switch the power OFF.
After that, it should work normally. See the manual posted on this thread.
1. Switch the power ON (lock blinking).
2. Disconnect the main power cord (blinking stops).
3. Reconnect the main power cord (the yellow LED lights up for 1-3
seconds).
4. When the yellow LED has gone out, switch the power OFF.
After that, it should work normally. See the manual posted on this thread.
equip":3h6rp6i8 said:I did disconect the cable that comes from the stove panel and reconected it.It did not work. Is the main power cord different. Could I just pull the fuse? Does anyone know where the fuse is?
I believe (depending on which model you have) that the power cable comes in on a molex connector at the back of the unit (see the diagram in the manual). You could just pull the fuse. Generally, the fuse for the Wallas power is near the battery and the unit is directly wired to the battery (to allow it to continue to run through the full cool down cycle even if the battery switch is put into the off position). On the boats I have seen with a Wallas, the fuse is within 12" of the battery in an in-line fuse holder.
amy and karl
New member
I think if you follow Roger's procedure it might work for you. I think the power disconnect we are both talking about is a white plug on the underside of the stove.
C-Pup16 in Los Angeles
New member
Good going guys.
20dauntless
New member
Glad the stove is working again, but here are some things to check for if you have problems in the future.
1. Is there any air in the fuel line? In my experience, even small amounts of air in the line produce the behavior you describe.
2. Is the stove shutting off when the blower lid is up? Mine did this after servicing from Scan Marine. I figured out it was overheating. Even with the cabinet doors open to provide more air it still overheated in cooking mode. I zip tied the switch for the lid so that the blower fan stays on all the time and haven't had overheating problems since.
3. Is it windy, and is the wind blowing into the exhaust outlet? I've had the wind blow out the and cause a shutdown.
I've found the Wallas to be the least reliable piece of equipment on board my boat, which is frustrating considering how much it costs. Mine completely failed with only 300 or so hours on it. My theory is it failed because it had "blown out" a lot when using it at speed and this resulted in significant soot buildup in the combustion chamber. Scan Marine sold me a small stainless steel air deflector that screws onto the exhaust outlet that supposedly helps with this.
If you do have problems in the future, give Scan Marine a call. They have been helpful in the past.
1. Is there any air in the fuel line? In my experience, even small amounts of air in the line produce the behavior you describe.
2. Is the stove shutting off when the blower lid is up? Mine did this after servicing from Scan Marine. I figured out it was overheating. Even with the cabinet doors open to provide more air it still overheated in cooking mode. I zip tied the switch for the lid so that the blower fan stays on all the time and haven't had overheating problems since.
3. Is it windy, and is the wind blowing into the exhaust outlet? I've had the wind blow out the and cause a shutdown.
I've found the Wallas to be the least reliable piece of equipment on board my boat, which is frustrating considering how much it costs. Mine completely failed with only 300 or so hours on it. My theory is it failed because it had "blown out" a lot when using it at speed and this resulted in significant soot buildup in the combustion chamber. Scan Marine sold me a small stainless steel air deflector that screws onto the exhaust outlet that supposedly helps with this.
If you do have problems in the future, give Scan Marine a call. They have been helpful in the past.
rob bauerle
New member
my wallas on my new to be c dory has never been used and I can't get it to work. talked to scan marine at the boat show and hopefully can get it working.
Robbie,
For a new stove, the problem most likely is fuel. Remove any old fuel from the lines--(blow them out), and then put in new fuel. You will see the pump trying to pull the fuel up into the lines from the container. You may have to "reset"--as noted above--with fuse removal, to get the fuel lines filled. Also check all fuel lines to be sure that fittings are absolute tight. Be sure that the voltage is at least 12.8--better 13.6 volts--either have a battery charger or the engine running when doing the first start--voltage is critical. With a new stove, probably nothing serious.
For a new stove, the problem most likely is fuel. Remove any old fuel from the lines--(blow them out), and then put in new fuel. You will see the pump trying to pull the fuel up into the lines from the container. You may have to "reset"--as noted above--with fuse removal, to get the fuel lines filled. Also check all fuel lines to be sure that fittings are absolute tight. Be sure that the voltage is at least 12.8--better 13.6 volts--either have a battery charger or the engine running when doing the first start--voltage is critical. With a new stove, probably nothing serious.
rob bauerle
New member
Thank you that was a quick response. Would you take the intake line from the fuel pump and blow that out beween the intake and the fuel container or do you have to worry about the line from the discharge
Robbie,
To make the stove prime on the first or second start just plug the vent line fron the fuel jug and apply gentle pressure to the side of the container and you will see the fuel advancing to the pump at which point you can release the vent line. This has worked for me several times.
To make the stove prime on the first or second start just plug the vent line fron the fuel jug and apply gentle pressure to the side of the container and you will see the fuel advancing to the pump at which point you can release the vent line. This has worked for me several times.
rob bauerle
New member
Thanks,i will try it this week. If it works I'll fly to Maine and give widget a kiss