V700 Windlass Installation

T

ThumbsUp

New member
Hello fellow Cbrats,

I have a few questions relating to the installation of a new V700. I won't be doing the install, but I want to make sure the boat shop I've selected does it properly. I decided to go with a V700 based on suggestions by Thataway - Thank you! Installing Lewmar bow roller compatible with #14 Delta fast set anchor.

#1 Placement of anchor switch - A picture on the Cbrats website shows an installation of an anchor switch close to the forward window (one that opens) so that it's accessible from outside. This seems like a good idea.

#2 Boat shop will core out balsa and reinforce with fiberglass where windlass is installed. How much balsa should be cored out? How deep should they go?

#3 There will not be a direct path between the bow roller and the cleat for the rode. Does the rode wrap around the V700 and tie off to cleat when anchored?

#4 Anchor drain - Port side? Should the hold be drilled above the strake to allow room for the clamshell? Anchor locker will have to be raised with glass to allow for proper drainage.

#5 How much water enters through the windlass/rode hold while underway in rough conditions?

#6 Boat shop suggested installing a new back plate under the factory cleat. All that's there now are large washers.

Any other suggestions on this install would be much appreciated.

Thank you!

:thup
 
We used a Horizontal Lewmar 700. I would do the standard cutout that Lewmar calls for then epoxy the edges of that cut. Then I think you need three holes if I remember right Drill over sized holes then under cut the material under the fiberglass with a cutter on a Dremel tool or something similar.Fill the oversized holes with epoxy and let cure. Then drill the epoxy to the actual size needed for the windless studs. We cut a piece of 1/4 aluminum and fashioned a backing plate under the windlasses' three studs. After installing we cut off the excess stud length for the windless as they are pretty long as I remember. After installing the windless seal the edges with 3M 4200. Putting a backing plate under a cleat is never a bad idea but I'm not sure you really need that. On our 23' Venture we epoxied all around the base of the anchor locker and over sized the drain hole filled with epoxy than drilled thru the epoxy for a 1/4 inch hole. We than reinstalled the factory clamshell on the outside side of the drain hole. I'm sure others will chime in.
D.D.
 
What D.D. said I undercut into the core about 3/16" and filled with thick epoxy. I used a UHD (high density plastic) backing plate under the deck with big fender washers. 3M 4200 sealed all holes and I made sure the anchor locker had sealant all around bottom and sides of the locker. I put the switch at the helm, near the trim switch We find its a good location
I put on a H700 as I don't like the V set up bringing all crud right into the workings. Are you sure Bob said V700 and not H700? It can be confusing. The V is flat on the deck and motor below deck, H is all above deck and the gypsy is on a "horizontal" shaft. Hence the name When anchored, we either bring the rode over the windlass and tie off at the cleat or take a dock line from the cleat up and over to the rode with a rolling hitch. Keep the loads off the windlass
George
 
I was posting as George posted. What Will-C says is also spot on. My preference is for the horizontal axis windlass. The only place where I think a vertical (V 700) may be worth while is on a sailboat, where it is perhaps less likely to be hung up on a jib sheet.

I would not remove more than 3/8" of core, and around the edges of all of the areas where you place a hole. Fill with thickened epoxy resin.

I have used both Aluminum, and HDPE under the deck--or just big fender washers. For the 22, I did not put an extra plate in place. Just got the biggest SS fender washers I could find.

I personally have put the windlass switch near the helm. In my current boat is is right under the helm. In larger boats, I have had deck switches, as well as remote switches, near the helm.

You want to drive the boat to the point where you are over the anchor. Use the boat to break the anchor out, and then the windlass to hoist the anchor to the roller. The Delta self stows very nicely. I generally do not work the windlass from the foredeck.

A half inch hole is fine for the anchor drain. Be sure that there is no way that water can get into the space between the V bunk molding and the hull! You can raise the anchor locker floor, glass in that space, (as I did) before you put in the clam shell. You can glass in a PVC tube if necessary.

I have made some short pieces of the foam which goes over water pipes for winter insulation, to go around the chain as it enters thru the deck plate of the windlass. This stops most of the water. Generally not much water gets in, but I do have a canvas which snaps over the area between the bunk and anchor locker.

I would not wrap a rode around the windlass, to tie to a cleat. I have two spring lines, from small cleats--worked fine in 50 knots last summer: With the Horizontal axis cleat, you can put put the line against the side of the windlass--I suspect you can do the same with the Vetical--but be sure that the teeth of the gypsy don't abraid the rode.

Below the photo of how rig the snubber lines on the main rode with rolling hitches.



Spring_lines_2.sized.jpg
 
I really appreciate all of the information. I was incorrect, I purchased the same windlass 700 that Bob shows on his boat. I am printing out this forum and heading to the boat shop right now. Will post pictures when complete!
 
Whee- I thought that perhaps there had been a misunderstanding or you had some other thoughts, that I missed. There are a few other reasons to get the Vertical shaft--and some folks love them. But I do prefer the Horizontal, for a number of reasons.

It sounds like you have a great shop lined up, and they should do a top notch job for you!
 
Before you install that Lewmar windlass, please read this missive: Lewmar V700 installation, I'd recommend the Lewmar H700, which is the horizontal version of the V700.

Journey On came with a Lewmar V600 windlass and it gave up after several years. The problem was sand got down into the motor, etc. The V700 is the improved version, now made in Thailand, but I've only had it for 3 years.

I beleive the factory now installs the H700.

The V700 is a very good windlass to use, but on any vertical windlass, crud from the rode will drop down over the motor/windlass.

Boris
 
I'd just like to add the following opinion:

If, when selecting a windlass, one decides to go to a vertical capstan style, rather than the horizontal, I'll suggest you buy one with the motor mounted horizontally below the drive gear mechanism, rather than vertically directly below it.

When the motor is mounted vertically directly below the drive gears and main shaft, water coming down the chain entrance gets spilled directly onto the motor top. Add some time for the shaft seal to loosen up and some salt in that water, and the motor soon fails.

With the motor mounted horizontally below the main shaft and driving the main shaft through a worm gear, the motor seal is much better protected against wear and loss of sealing, and the motor is likely to last much longer.

This is simply a case of better engineering yielding a better, longer-lasting product.

The Lewmar V-700 is a perfect example of how not to engineer a vertical windlass, IMHO.

Here are the two types for visual comparison:


652_lg.jpg



12v_1000w_heavy_duty_vertical_lower_profile_windlass_anchor_windlass.jpg


YMMV! :lol:

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Jut a further note about my above post:

The all in one line vertical windlass design in the first diagram above also is weak in that it allows water to get into the gearbox even before it gets into the motor below the gearbox.

The offset horizontal motor and worm drive gearbox of the second design are both stronger and less vulnerable to water intrusion into both the gear box and the motor.

Its just that it's cheaper to build them in the first manner.

Sometime "more affordable" is not.

Following this line of discussion, you can see why leaving the rode on the windlass at anchor or using the windlass to break out the anchor is definitely not recommended. Save your seals for another day............!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Back
Top