Up the Amazon

Alyssa Jean

New member
Kate and I are in a boat somewhat bigger than a C-Dory. 660 ft cruise ship. But we just made the turn from the Atlantic into the head of the Amazon. Spending the next week up the river and back to the Atlantic. Then a week returning through the Lessor Antilles and to Miami.
 
At 660 ft, that has to be drawing 20+ feet. Keep you feet up when you get up river. Enjoy the warm. It was 17F here this morning. Sounds like you are in the right place at the right time. Enjoy.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
How far will your trip take you? I work in Brazil quite a lot, including working in several areas of the Amazon. If you get as far as Manaus, the capital of Amazonas state, you should hire out a local boat and explore the junction of the Solimões and Negra, called the "meeting of the waters", and perhaps up the Negra, including seeing the pink dolphins. Your boat will probably offer these tours goo. I'm planning a 2-week trip there in September 2020 on a local river boat that will sleep about 20. You can fish for many species including the "Peacock Bass" and piranhas. f you don't go that far and dock in Belem (Bethlehem in Portuguese), a tour to Marajó Island is fun. The Amazon River is vast and is one of the most interesting places in the world. Brazilians consider the Amazon River as starting where the Solimões and Negra join just downstream from Manaus, but other countries call the entire Solimões into the Andes the "Amazon River". In terms of clearance, there seem to be some very large boats going well above Manaus even into Peru, and trips on the river don't seem like river trips since the river is so wide. A C-Dory might be the perfect boat to have there, but I have yet to see one.
 
We left Santarem late yesterday and are stopping at a VERY small village (like 100 inhabitants) today for 4-5 hours and then off again. End port will be Manaus. Be there for two nights before heading back east with several stops. The vastness of this area is hard to take in. Brazil is the same size as Australia.
 
Lets see...two days in Manaus. They'll probably want you to take the opera house tour and to tour Manaus itself, including the "leggo" model of the opera house. Manaus was once among the richest cities in the world when it had a total monopoly on latex used to make rubber. The British ended that by stealing some trees and planting in Malaysia. Interesting story. In reality, the city is only mildly interesting and not much worth touring IMHO. Much better, go down to the port, take a small, usually <20 person, guided boat that will both go up the Negra a bit (pink dolphin stop), down the Negra to the "meeting of the waters", and then cross over into the Solimões for contrast. Dress with a bathing suit as your first layer as you will both want to "swim with the dolphins" and be towed back and forth across the "meeting". Take a towel, binoculars and a camera. Try the "Guarana", which is a soda made from a plant seed extract, some types only available in Manaus. Eat some "cupuacu", or drink a "vitimana" made from it. Cupuacu is a fruit only available in the region. I don't know about the water level right now, usually earlier is higher and the "terra firme" flooded. This allows small boats to penetrate the forest, where you can see all kinds of wildlife stranded in the trees. Your tour will usually include a very nice lunch, and your guide will likely speak English. You'll see "Victoria Amazonica" the largest water lily in the world. You can hire a guide to give you a tour of Manaus or arrange at the port. An interesting place is INPA, literally "Institute Nacional Pesquisa Amazonas", where "pesquisa" is research. INPA is the primary research center for the Amazon. The campus is incredible, there are several museums, including one that includes what is called the "largest noncomosite leaf in the world", Coccaloba, up to 8 ft long. You will need a guide to appreciate Manaus and INPA, though. Prices should be modest, as the Brazilian currency is highly devalued currently. Tips are not expected but are appreciated. However, taxis will ALWAYS try to overcharge you so make sure and agree on a price ahead of time. The Brazilian currency is now >4 reis per dollar vs about 1 per dollar my first visit there. Say "obrigado" (males) or "obrigada" (females) a lot. Do haggle a bit but don't complain or compare how much better things are in the US. Brazilians are educated, wonderful people, and they are proud of their country and well aware of its problems.
 
Obrigato Rob, Sounds like you could be a great guide here. We stopped at a little fishing village (Boca Da Valeria) this morning and anchored. Tendered in and the 100 or so locals greeted us. Children took our hands and walked through their little community. ($1 gift for each).
We are doing two tours while in Manaus. One is a Pink Dolphin Encounter. 80 minute cruise up the Rio Negro to the village of Acajatuba and swim in a nearby lake with them. The other is The Best of Manaus. Jungle research center and zoo and then the Opera House. Lunch somewhere and driving around. Customs House etc.
We have seen the Meeting of the waters once already. We will see what other trouble we can get into.
Thank you for all the info. Will let you know how we did.
 
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