Two kinds of boaters: liars and those who've run aground

Well, I did just buy a torch yesterday... How long would you aim it a the bolt, and at what distance? I don't want to hurt the paint job, and it's the one in that confined space at the base of the lower unit...

The problem with the PB Blaster is that it does drip off rather than soak down into the problem area.

Should I be concerned about flammability with Blaster residue?
 
I would bring the torch to as small as a blue flame as you can (assuming a Propane or butane torch--I have both butane and propane, plus acetylene/oxygen) and heat the bolt head itself. Try and protect the surrounding paint, and not get the flame on the paint--there are heat shield products available or wet rags.

You are heating the bolt to expand it, and then get the corrosion to break free, so repeated cycles of heat/cool are necessary. Don't overheat the bolt. Tap the head of the bolt with a ball peen hammer between heatings. Wipe all of the PB blaster off so it does not ignite. However after the bolt has cooled, give another little squirt around the bolt head. Some of the PB blaster is usually forced up into the threads by the heat.

It takes patience a gentle tapping and then more heat. Don't really crank down on the bolt. If you use a hand impact driver tap it, don't hit it with a sledge hammer! The vibration helps loosen the threads.

Also if this is failing, after the heat, there is "CRC Freeze off" - 72* spray and cooling will also contract the bolt. That should do it if the heat has not.

You may have to do some paint touch up---happens with Honda's regularly!
 
Getting the bolt out is important, you can touch up paint the thing later. Bob is correct - this may take several heat cycles to work it loose. Do everything you can not to break it! And it will eventually come out with patience.
 
T.R. Bauer":3fq4jgte said:
I have had heat from my torch make lots of stuck nuts and bolt not be stuck any longer. It really works!
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A good way to save your paint is find a piece of 3/8 or so steel rod, clamp it in vice-grips, heat the rod end as hot as you can get it then apply red hot end to bolt head, repeat as nec. :thup
 
Sounds like blacksmithing! So what should I avoid doing if I don't want to break off the bolt head? Need to understand what causes metal fatigue sufficient to do that. Obviously I crossed the line with the trim tab bolt...

Never torque on the bolt if it doesn't give easily?

And, should I plan on replacing this bolt with something better if and when I do get it extracted?
 
Beachnut":2x6spsmy said:
Sounds like blacksmithing! So what should I avoid doing if I don't want to break off the bolt head? Need to understand what causes metal fatigue sufficient to do that. Obviously I crossed the line with the trim tab bolt...

Never torque on the bolt if it doesn't give easily?

And, should I plan on replacing this bolt with something better if and when I do get it extracted?
Click to expand...

Will need a replacement bolt & re assemble with antisieze on all bolts :thup
 
There have been enough suggestions that smack of blacksmithing instead of machine work. If your heating, banging, torquing doesn't work, you'll be looking to helicoil 2 bolt holes, and I assume with stainless. That should scare you.

Please take the boat to a good repair shop and ask them to get the seized bolt out and the broken bolt.

To replace the bolts, order 2 ea from Honda. They're special bolts that don't corrode and aren't stainless. Also, tap out the other holes before you assemble the unit.

After you see what the machine shop does, you may try it on the next screwed up bolt, but not now. Outboard engines and parts are expensive and it's not a lower case but the complete mounting structure.

Boris
 
Sometimes they just corrode away and there is little you can do I'm sorry to say. And a repair shop is not a bad idea if it doesn't cooperate.
 
journey on":2gsl172j said:
There have been enough suggestions that smack of blacksmithing instead of machine work. If your heating, banging, torquing doesn't work, you'll be looking to helicoil 2 bolt holes, and I assume with stainless. That should scare you.

Please take the boat to a good repair shop and ask them to get the seized bolt out and the broken bolt.

To replace the bolts, order 2 ea from Honda. They're special bolts that don't corrode and aren't stainless. Also, tap out the other holes before you assemble the unit.

After you see what the machine shop does, you may try it on the next screwed up bolt, but not now. Outboard engines and parts are expensive and it's not a lower case but the complete mounting structure.

Boris
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Might be a special unobtainium alloy & if they didn't corrode why is the O/P in this mess?
 
New gear-case to motor bolts are $5.70 ea, a stock item at boats.net. A good investment, especially since you only need 2 ea.

Why they don't corrode is beyond me, though they're magnetic. The aluminum corrodes and seizes around the bolt. Don't replace them with ss or for sure the bolts and cases will interact.

Tap out the case holes and clean off the old bolts, plus use some anti-seize on replacement.

BTW. replacing a drive shaft means pulling gears out of the gear-case and re-shimming. I certainly would not want to do that, though I'd drop the gear case and haul it into the shop. I'm not as young and brave as I used to be.

Boris
 
I assumed a different drive shaft. I also assume that it'll need different shims. And, I assume those shims make up for different tolerances. If I'm wrong, you're correct.

I do know that when I had the differential rebuilt on my truck, they were careful to shim it so it had the right contact pattern between the gears. I would think the same applied in outboards.

Boris
 
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