Trasom Saver needed?

C

capt. meares

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C Dory Year
1988
C Dory Model
22 Cruiser
Vessel Name
Vianey
I have a 22 cruiser with a new Suzuki DF90. I do not want the hassle of dealing with hooking and un hooking a transom saver if it is not needed. I wanted to know how many C-brats use them and whether or not I should be using one.

Thanks
 
There are several types of "transom savers". One is the transducer mount, and I think you are not thinking of that one.

There is one which is spring loaded and fits between the lower unit, just below the antiventillation plate, and the trailer frame. I do have this on my Caracal Cat (18 foot), and a Suzuki 140 hp.

For the Honda 90 on the 22, I was using one of the wedge type which went over the tilt shaft of the motor, but with hot weather on the desert, it sort of squished down, and I put in a piece of 2 x 2 wood. That has broken, but still supports the motor. There does need to be some motor support, other than the "tab lock" used when you are at the dock.

I have used 2 x 4, 2 x 2, closet dowels etc to support the motor. Probably the spring loaded one I use on the Caracal is the best.

31OWWYc2pfL.jpg
 
I use a piece of 2x4 cut down to fit in the space between the moving and non-moving parts of the motor mount at the top. Raise the motor all the way up, slide in the piece, and the drop the motor a little to capture the piece of wood so it doesn't fall out when driving.

I had a transom saver like the one pictured on my last boat. The piece of 2x4 is more convenient and a lot less expensive.

As long as the gap in your motor mount allows a reasonably stout piece of wood in there, it should be fine for holding the motor up.
 
Not an official c-brat, but am a boater. I found this gizmo years ago and have been pleased with it.

Some people debate the merits of using it. Personally I think it does the job just fine for absorbing shock, but the weight of the engine is still on the transom. I don't have to trailer far, and it's nice and flat for the most part. Couple RR tracks on the way to the track, but nothing I would consider strenuous or long.

Details here

wedge3.jpg
 
We have used a bar type unit and did not like it either. It was a pain to reach under the trailer and use in general. We just looked at the motor and cut a piece of wood to work for it.

20140321_155158_resized.sized.jpg

Greg
 
We have a Suzuki DF150 and use MyWedge.

Only issue is there is a zerk (grease) fitting on the port side, up under where the wedge lands. DON'T USE IT ON THE PORT SIDE. Ask me how I know...don't know if the 90 is the same but. I broke off the zerk and had to "easy out" it and install a new one.

Other than that it works fine as advertized.
 
The My Wedge which failed is pictured below, and goes on the main tilt ram, the slip overs are probably better and go on the trim rams.

wedge2lrg.gif


If you have hydraulic steering, put the engine to one side or the other, to avoid the motor bouncing damaging the seals in the helm pump.
 
I apologize if I'm missing the obvious, but the wedge/wood blocks only relieve the constant motor weight pressure on the rams (I certainly could be missing something, but the hanging force still looks the same.)

The full weight of the motor still seems able to lever at the motor mounts and transom (was this the OPs question?). The hinged trailer bar is a pain at times, but reduces the amount of strain on the motor mount/transom; however, I'm not sure to what percentage or poundage relief. You can see the weight transfer even out when it starts to settle in the yoke.
 
I'm guessing this one will never be decided...unlike the twins/single debate, which we all know was won by the single proponents. :mrgreen:

Another common opinion, first shared with me by Les at EQ - the transom receives more force when using one of the transom savers that are secured to the trailer. Road jolts will send some energy directly to the transom via the frame, rather than the bottom of the hull alone. Certainly mitigated if the bar contains rubber bushings, but those only compress so much. And, this force is further exacerbated if you use transom tie-down straps.
 
Bill is right, At least the way my bunk trailer is configured, you can see some movement of the boat over rougher roads and that force would be going straight from the aft trailer beam to the outboard and into the trim system and transom. The block we use is just to ease the stress on the trim system and keep any vertical/trim motor wiggle to an absolute minimum.

Greg
 
Hmmm... I'm sticking with the spring loaded transom saver from motor to trailer. I don't see the block of wood stopping motor bounce
 
Hmmm... I'm sticking with the spring loaded transom saver from motor to trailer. I don't see the block of wood stopping motor bounce
 
I guess i could have been a bit more specific with my question. The wedges and wood are just for protecting the hydrolics. I was mainly referring to the bar type that hooks to your trailer type of transom saver. I have seen many big outboard motors bouncing around on highways flexing transoms. I guess my question is, With a motor as light as mine, and a transom as well built as a c-dorys, do i have to worry as much? I have heard before, as mentioned above, that they do more harm than good. Is there a cbrat out there who has a decade or two towing a cdory around without using one, that can confirm they have never had any transom damage?

Thankyou
 
No transom damage on either my 22CD or 25CD to date:

Towed many thousands of miles in California and the roads are really in bad shape these days, so the trailer takes a real beating:
1. From 3/2009 to 10/2014 - 22CD with 2006 Honda 90hp
2. From 9/2014 to Now - upgraded to a 25CD with 2008 Honda 150hp

WOW....I have been towing for 7+ years on the good old standard Honda locking bracket, with no transom or hydrolic issue. Also my tow veh is a 2004 Dodge 5.9 Cummings Diesel so I hardly notice the boats behind the truck at all, but that means the trailer and boat really takes a beating, typical open draws and items fall during our Long Beach to San Jose trips seems that type of damage is the only one I have seen....

The Honda motor lock does not allow for the motor to move or bounce - at all.

Really like Honda for that feature...as for Suzuki motors I have no experience.

hope this information helps....
 
capt. meares":mx38okbm said:
I guess i could have been a bit more specific with my question. The wedges and wood are just for protecting the hydrolics. I was mainly referring to the bar type that hooks to your trailer type of transom saver. I have seen many big outboard motors bouncing around on highways flexing transoms. I guess my question is, With a motor as light as mine, and a transom as well built as a c-dorys, do i have to worry as much? I have heard before, as mentioned above, that they do more harm than good. Is there a cbrat out there who has a decade or two towing a cdory around without using one, that can confirm they have never had any transom damage?

Thankyou
Click to expand...
I tow my 22 for about 9 years with twin Honda and never used a transom saver. There was no damage to the transom, no damage to the hydraulics.
 
The torsional load on the transom from normal operation is much more than you ever get from bounces in the road whe towing. With the motors tilted up the load is even lower. The only real reason for a transom saver is to unload the rams in the tilt system and to prevent pressure spikes from any bounces the cause the motor to bang the rams.

If you motor skeg sits low, a transom saver could save you some damage if the rams did develop a leak and the motor came down without you noticing. This is why I use a block of wood to hold the motor up. I can't see it when towing.
 
The "transom saver" I use on the Caracal, does have a spring in the center of the column which takes some of the shock load. Definitely the rubber blocks take some of the load also (to the point of collapsing in the heat).

The stress on the transom, is probably greater when going at 25 knots thru 2 to 3 foot seas, than it is when trailering in any position. But the load on the single tilt cyl. is more when in the "trailering position".

Many motor manufactures say NOT to put the weight on the "transom tab lock". I have seen several of these fail when the boat was going down the road. They are not designed for that type of use.

Most manufactures say to trailer with the motor down, if possible:
Merc in the 90 hp range says:

Trailer your boat with the outboard tilted down in a vertical operating position. If additional ground clearance is required, the outboard should be tilted up using an accessory outboard support device...IMPORTANT: Do not rely on the power trim/tilt system or tilt support lever to maintain proper ground clearance for trailering
Click to expand...


Honda for the 90 says:

When trailering or transporting the boat with the motor attached, it is recommended that the motor remain in the normal run position.

Use a motor support bar (refer to your motor support bar manufactuurer's instructions) to stop the motor's side-to-side movement.

If there is insufficient road clearance with the normal in normal run position, than trailer the motor in the tilted position using a motor support bar (refer to your motor support bar manufactuurer's instructions) or remove the motor from the boat.
Click to expand...
 
My 19 had been used by the previous owner for 3 years towing from Sacramento to Bodega Bay with no support for the Df 70 Suzuki with 110 hrs & the gel oat at both corners of the transom had multiple hairline cracks. I'm sticking with transom saver! A stitch in time!
 
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