transom question & source for transom bar

B

bmcminn

New member
Why does the "wall" between the motor well and the cockpit have the cut-out shape? I think when I was at NMI they current designs do not have this. It would seem to me that in a really bad following sea that the cut-out would let water in that could be kept out.

Also, is the bar that goes across on some boats have called a transom bar? Anyone have a good source for one of these?

Thanks!
 
bmcminn":3s6psg6u said:
Why does the "wall" between the motor well and the cockpit have the cut-out shape? I think when I was at NMI they current designs do not have this. It would seem to me that in a really bad following sea that the cut-out would let water in that could be kept out.

Also, is the bar that goes across on some boats have called a transom bar? Anyone have a good source for one of these?

Thanks!
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I guess it depends on how you use your boat. Boarding from the stern is easier with a cutout. Access to the motor and associated stuff is also easier. On my boat I have had occasional following seas dump into the splashwell, but never into the cockpit.

There are some boats that have a transom bar that holds a cooler (one was available from the factory). The cooler was held in place by the bar and rested on the edge of the well (in the cutout). My boat has one of these, but it is an after market part. Other people have put in fish cleaning tables and similar things. I've seen pictures of one boat where starboard panels (or something similar) have been used to fill the cutout at the back of the cockpit, apparently to prevent pooping the cockpit.

Most any canvas, bimini, railing shop should be able to make you a transom bar.
 
My theory on the splashwell cutout is that while it will allow more water into the boat when a wave comes over the stern, it will also allow more water to quickly evacuate when the wave subsides. If the wall was full height that water would have to slowly drain through the bilge pump, even on a CD25 because the scuppers would likely be below the water line.

If the hull with the more open splashwell does will not hold enough water to sink the boat and the hull with a full height splashwell does, then it would seem the short one is better. There would be more chance of a wave coming in, but less chance of a catastrophic swamping.

That is just my theory, though, and it has not been proven correct by internet memes, so take it for what it's worth. It makes me feel good on my CD25 when I see water getting into the splashwell and think how lucky I am that it didn't get all the way into the cockpit.
 
Interesting point about the water getting back out. Hmmm. In this video the guy talks about the trapezoid shaped stern and ability to empty water as being key in following seas, around 8:30. Not our boat but same concept on a smaller scale.
 
The transom "bar" is easy and cheap to make. You need a piece of SS tubing or pipe in 1" or 7/8". (Pipe is thicker wall) You also need two Bimini attachment pieces. These normally are screwed into the deck/gunnel to support the bottom of the Bimini.

41tTVs95tZL._AC_.jpg

You need a tube end:

s-d-270100-1_lg__77580.1558140929.jpg

Decide where you want the bar, measure the length of pipe you will need with these fittings included. Cut the pipe. And put it together.

We use a 1" pipe to support the Honda Generator over the well. It also holds several 2 gallon fuel cans handy and they will not tip over or "roam about".
 
If this work you can see my "transom bar" here. If not click on the link and it should take you to my album for the view. I think this is a much stronger mounting than you can get with the bimini type attachment. Mine was made to hang 2 fairly large coolers on. One infront of the bar, over the cockpit, and the other one, smaller, that hangs in the splashwell.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _photo.php

Guess it won't show the pix, but should take you to it in the album.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
Bob. Where do I get ss pipe?
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You can buy SS pipe or tubing at many sources. Because of shipping costs, I tend to buy it at West Marine. But check on line and there are multiple sources. You can buy what ever wall thickness you want from schedule 10 to Schedule 80. As far as the "best" for marine use: 316 has the better resistance to corrosion. But 304 will work also.

Harvey, I am sure that your tubing is much stronger. Mine does fine for lighter coolers, and the generator. I have done the same on 3 boats and never had a problem, even with my weight on it at times.

BTW, this is a seriously cool boat.
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. Referring to "Cochise", Steve Dashew's FPB 78 his current and last power boat which is 86' long and only 20' beam. I doubt that "Cochise" would ever be confused for a C Dory. The hulls and dynamics are so much different. Cochise's hull remains a V, to rounded V aft to almost where the prop shafts emerge, then the stern is flat, almost like a long swim step, the HP to weight ratio are way off, Cochise is a displacement boat. The C Dory is a planing boat. Look at the stern--fully open, and very narrow for the length--C Dory enclosed and wide for the length... this 86 footer has very fine lines. Sorry, but the dynamics are entirely different.

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I have known Steve (Skip) and Linda Dashew since the early 1970's. They are one of the brightest cruising couple in the world. His innovations and his voyages are epic. He has contributed a great deal to the world cruising base, starting with his first Deerfoot sail series. I have been privileged to have been aboard several of his boats from the first "Beowulf" (32' Class D sailing Cat), Intermezzo (Columbia 50), Deerfoot 70 and "Wind Horse", but not Cochise. His Marquesas Islands to San Diego (over 3000 miles) in 12 days in the 80' sailboat Beowulf is a record which I doubt will ever be surpassed, with a boat handled by a couple! (OK, I know that "foilers" are faster!)

Steve is probably a year or so older than I am. He and Linda are still cruising almost full time just the two of them, in an 86 foot boat! His father lived to be 96, and I would be surprised if Steve is still not sailing at that age!

I digress, back to the C Dory and transom. I have never taken any serious water over the transom of any of our C Dorys. I believe That the deck mold for the 22 remains the same, but I could be wrong. I believe the 23 has the full height forward part of the splash well. I find getting out over the splash well of the 25 (with the full height) vs the 22 is about the same. But the 25 has a raised cockpit and is theoretically self bailing. Taking serious water over the transom is a factor of how the boat is handled and many variables in the sea state. The C Dory line has a huge amount of lift aft, because of the beam, flat bottom and agility with the high HP to weight. Once a cockpit of a 22 (or 22) is filled with water, you have a very serious situation!
 
Bob said,
"Once a cockpit of a 22 (or 22) is filled with water, you have a very serious situation!"
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Totally agree. And if the cockpit is full of water, two things should happen. 1. You do not open the cockpit door. (Probably couldn't anyway.) and 2. You will want to be able to throttle up and move straight ahead. AND, hope both bilge pumps are working full blast and your engines did not get flooded.

Best of luck in that one.

Bob, On the transom bar. Mine is 7/8ths inch, and the ends are double bolted. With both coolers on it could be holding 70 -80 pounds, maybe up to 100. I have stood on it but not full weight. Not sure how much it will hold, and hope to not know for sure. :wink:

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
bmcminn":3337mdo5 said:
Harvey, I used the Image Address, http://www.c-brats.com/albums/album606/ ... .sized.jpg. It's a little different, then wrapped it with .



IMGP1255.sized.jpg

So is that a solid piece that is custom made or order-able? Looks great.
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The ends are mounted, double bolted, and the tube is 7/8ths inch (I think, I am away from the boat now so can't be sure - guess it could be 1".) They were put on by the original owner before I got the boat.

Thanks for the tip on the pix posting. For some reason, on my tablet, it will not give me that option in that drop down menu. Funny, because I had the same problem with my PC, until I switched it to Chrome browser. The tablet is on chrome. Such a deal, huh :?: :disgust

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
Only time I've had water from wave action dump in the splashwell is when the boat is stopped. When moving the boat is fast enough even at "slow" speeds that waves don't enter the splashwell.

I have had several inches of water in the cockpit of my 22 while underway (forgot to put the drain plug in once). Pretty much filled the cockpit up to the sill of the cabin door and was deeper at the back. It was no big deal. The boat handled fine. It took a bit of work bailing (to help the bilge pump) to get all the water out.

Unless you get so much water on board that starts filling the main cabin, I doubt getting pooped a bit would be a problem. On the 22s with the new cabin style, there is no easy way to get water significant water out of the cabin other than bailing. Earlier boats had a bilge pump under the step at the cabin entrance.
 
My boat came with a fish cleaning table across this space and rotates down into the splash well. When I lower it down into the well it covers perhaps 90% of the opening. I usually keep it into the downward position when travelling as it closes up most of this opening and is out of the way. If I were to get a following wave into the splash well it would stop most of the water. The only time when I have had any water come into the splash well is when I have stopped too quickly and my wake followed me into the smash well, but never into the cockpit. I have since learned to slow down slower or turn out of the wake when I do slow down quickly.
 
Just a thought. I don't see why one couldn't design a rigid one-way flap that was hinged and hung from a transom bar. It would prevent water coming in, but would swing open to allow water to flow out.
 
pcg":36celovo said:
Just a thought. I don't see why one couldn't design a rigid one-way flap that was hinged and hung from a transom bar. It would prevent water coming in, but would swing open to allow water to flow out.
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If it gets to the point where you are taking advantage of the swing open drain feature, you're probably going to be so far gone that you won't need it anymore. You'll need to have more than 2' of water in the cockpit before it'll help drain anything (at least on a 22).
 
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