Trailering long distance advice 16' Angler

C

Clittle14

New member
Hey all,

I'm beyond excited to purchase my first C-Dory, a 16' Angler! I've been looking for the last 3-4 years and finally found the right one.
I'll be making a 6 hour drive to get her on Friday, and would love any advice specific to C-Dory on trailering.

Questions I had:

Transom saver - I was planning on getting one but recently read there's a lot of conflicting reports about them. Some even say they do more damage then good?

Should I have the motor in the up position or down?

I'm bringing some bearing grease with me and planning on getting some fresh grease in there, but any other trailer specific advice would be greatly appreciated also.

I'm driving it across state lines, into California. Other than Bill of sale and title do I need anything else?

Thanks in advance!
 
https://www.amazon.com/M-Y-Wedge-Suppor ... 6CSB&psc=1

We use this (above image) on our boat and are well pleased.

To travel with the motor in the down position is asking for trouble as the skeg may drag on something eventually along the way. You will probably do fine with the motor in the up position with no transom support mechanism as long as your driving is basically on roads such as a highway or roadways with smooth asphalt surfaces.
 
I'm beyond excited to purchase my first C-Dory, a 16' Angler! I've been looking for the last 3-4 years and finally found the right one.
I'll be making a 6 hour drive to get her on Friday, and would love any advice specific to C-Dory on trailering.

Congrats!


Questions I had:

Transom saver - I was planning on getting one but recently read there's a lot of conflicting reports about them. Some even say they do more damage then good?

I trailer approximately 10,000 miles a year. I had a 22 for about 10 years, and my 25 for the last two years. I trailer with the outboard full down, no transom saver. No problems. (Just watch for clearance when pulling out of parking lots with a low gutter!)

Should I have the motor in the up position or down?

See above

I'm bringing some bearing grease with me and planning on getting some fresh grease in there, but any other trailer specific advice would be greatly appreciated also.

Stop every 100 miles or few hours to do a walk around checking bearing temps and tire pressures. I do carry a temp gun, but usually just carefully feel the hubs. I check the tire pressures at the start of a trip and any time I have a doubt, otherwise I just visually look at the tire to see if it compares with the others. If the bearings haven't been inspected recently, it might be worth pulling the hubs just to be sure.

I'm driving it across state lines, into California. Other than Bill of sale and title do I need anything else?

You may have to stop for invasive species inspection. Make sure your bilge plug is removed. That bilges are dry and that the boat looks fairly clean. (ie, no invasive species, plant or animal, on the hull or anywhere that could visually be seen.

A spare tire is always a good idea. Check your lights that they all work. And if it has brakes that they are working. (I don't know if a 16 is heavy enough to require brakes.) Make sure the boat is secured on the trailer. Take your time. I always trailer with my outboard in gear to keep the prop from spinning in the wind.

Thanks in advance!

You're welcome. Enjoy your new boat, and safe travels!

Colby
 
Make sure the tires are pumped to their max pressure rating.

Jack up the trailer, one side at a time, enough to be able to spin the wheel in both directions. Listen/feel for anything other than smooth quiet and easy rotation. If there's any more than a very little bit of binding, the brakes (if there are brakes) may need to be adjusted. If there's grumbling or vibrating, bearings need to be cleaned and repacked, and parts may need to be replaced.

I would also feel the hubs for unduly high temp at every stop.
 
I use a piece of wood cut down from a 2x3 stuck in the tilt mechanism of the motor (tilt the motor up, insert wood, tilt motor down a bit until the wood is captured). This has worked well for the last 10 years.

On my setup, the motor skeg is about 2" off the road surface when the motor is fully tilted down.
 
Good advice above. In addition, I would get a set of magnetic trailer lights. Assuming that the present trailer lights work, they might not after a few minutes on the road (ask me how I know). I had mine fail several times.
Once I was pulled over, but because I grabbed the magnetic ones, I'm sure I avoided a ticket. $20 lights or $200 ticket. Plus, nobody wants to troubleshoot trailer lights at the side of the road on the first trip home.

I also have a solar powered tire temperature monitor. Although mainly used for a vehicle, the axle on a 16' trailer is close enough to the tow vehicle that it can be used on the trailer tires. Temps usually rise a few degrees above ambient when towing. If the temp rises 10 degrees above, it's time to get out and check the hubs. Mine even has the ability to preset a high temp and low pressure in case I'm not paying attention.

Clean off your ball and up inside the trailer hitch. Use some of the grease there. If you are towing with anything other than a pickup, you will likely hear the gritching of the ball if not greased. Not a safety issue, just an annoyance on a long trip.

I also carry a small air compressor. In remote areas, putting a shot of air in every 5-15 minutes can get you to a better place to change a tire (or to where somebody else changes the tire).

Finally, AAA has a towing policy that includes trailers. If you aren't too remote, they can send a flat bed tow truck that can handle a CD 16 on a trailer. I had mine towed this way before I knew about this policy.

https://www.amazon.com/MaxxHaul-80778-M ... 7017216051

https://www.amazon.com/Jansite-Monitori ... 9905004235
 
ssobol":19nrpk4e said:
On my setup, the motor skeg is about 2" off the road surface when the motor is fully tilted down.
Click to expand...


Do a dry run practice on changing the trailer tire before you leave. You may find that you need a wood block because the portable truck jack may be too short to lift the trailer for a wheel change. Also, check the size of the lug nuts on the trailer, they may be different than your wrench for the truck.


As far as travel goes with the main or twins being tilted up or down while in tow, every tow rig and its specific individual trailer type is different. I keep the kicker in the down position but only because there is enough clearance. But much like ssobol, not the main! What works for one person here on C-Brats may not work for another. Just be careful.
 
I did a similar trip 3 years ago. Brought my 16 Cruiser from Upstate NY to southern Virginia. About 500 miles
I got a rubber transom block (Wedge) that goes on the motor strut to tilt up the motor. Tilt the motor put in the rubber block and tilt down to lock it into place.

https://www.scheels.com/p/m-y-wedge-uni ... dsQAvD_BwE

Also got a set of Steer Stops to keep the motor from turning

https://www.wholesalemarine.com/t-h-mar ... iwQAvD_BwE

I bought new tires before the trip. Most places will not change the tire with the boat on the trailer. I had the boat in the water so was able to take the trailer alone to the tire store. Otherwise it was bring them 1 wheel at a time.

Also bought a spare tire and a lug wrench for the size of the trailer wheel bolts.
I have a jack that can lift the axle on the trailer.
I bought new safety chains as the ones that came with the trailer were old an rusted.
Squirted some lube in the wheel bearings.
Made sue everything was secure on the boat. Did not use the the rear canvas cover. Left the boat open. I was not sure what the cover would do at highway speeds.
Went through 3 States without a problem.
About 100 miles from home the direction lights stopped working. Turned out to be a bulb. Now I carry spare bulbs!

I guess you really need to do the basics. Check all before you start. Every 100-150 miles stop an check the wheels and straps.
Also I drove at the speed limit or slightly below. Got passed by many but just felt safer.
You will stop more anyway, as my gas milage was way down with the trailer.
 
In addition to all the foregoing advice, dissassemble one of the wheel hubs and determine what both the inner and outer hub bearing numbers are. Then purchase a replacement set for each position along with an inner seal and extra cotter pin. And if you are capable of doing repair work, bring both a hardened drift punch and hammer of sufficient size to change out a bearing if necessary. Bring plently of rags and some trailer bearing grease to lube the bearings. Good luck!
 
When I lived in Reno I bought the Palomino in Washington and just hooked it up to my tow rig and drove it home. I remember getting a permit from the state okaying the trip. I drove slower than usual in the right lane and did a walk around the 2-3 times I made a stop. I took the 2 lane highway in southern Oregon and had a event free trip.
You could carry spares for everything and still get hit by a semi.
Relax, be sensible and enjoy your 16'er!
 
There is a permit that one can trailer the boat and not have a license plate on. You have to give a destination state and it costs some minimal fee. There is something else where you swear that you're going to register the boat in Calif (for example) and not pay Washington's sales tax. I don't think either apply here: There is a valid license plate and you have a good bill of sale, I hope.

Boris
 
Thanks for all the feedback! It's greatly appreciated...
I went ahead and ordered a magnetic trailer light kit as a backup, a M-Y Wedge Single Ram Universal Outboard Trailering Support, and bringing with me some tools and bearing grease. I'll stop by the gas station and make sure the tires are full.
For anyone else with trailering questions, I found this article to be super helpful.

https://www.boatus.com/expert-advice/ex ... nsom-saver

Excited to be a part of this great community. I'll post some photo's once I get the boat in the water!
 
Thanks for all the advice... It was a successful trip from Oregon to the SF Bay Area yesterday with my new-to-me 2010 Angler 16;. Had it on the water first thing this morning. Not sure how to post photos here otherwise I would!
 
Good news and congratulations.
Go to the top of the main page header list. Click on memberlist. Then click on lick on the PM for cbadmin or TyBoo or Da Nag and and ask them to set you up with a photo album. They will do so shortly. 🚤
 
Clittle14":1lbtwblg said:
Thanks for all the feedback! It's greatly appreciated...
I went ahead and ordered a magnetic trailer light kit as a backup, a M-Y Wedge Single Ram Universal Outboard Trailering Support, and bringing with me some tools and bearing grease. I'll stop by the gas station and make sure the tires are full. ...
Click to expand...

I would add an electric air pump for inflating tires. Make sure the one you get supports whatever pressure is required for your trailer tires.
 
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