Bob-
Are you purchasing the Angler new from a dealer? If so, what are their recommendations?
Boat trailers are built regionally. That is to say the brands sold in the Pacific NorthWest are diffeent from those built and sold in New England. So unless you're willing to travel some distance, your choices will be limited to the brands built within your area, more or less.
However, having said that, I bought a Venture trailer manufactured in South Carolina from a dealer in Ohio and had it shipped to California for an additional $600, and still came out ahead of California prices.
So we'll let the locals back there recommend the brands for you, and the prices will be less than you'd pay elsewhere, with the lowest prices originating in the Southern U.S.
The debate between choosing a tandem or a single axle trailer is a good one, and the general consensus is that the tandem trailer is better for longer distance towing and tracks better behind your tow vehicle. A blowout of one tire out of four is also a lot less serious than one out of two, and the tandem trailer can usually limp along to the next freeway exit. Nonetheless, single axle trailers are fine for local towing and shorter distances, and are less expensive up front.
A painted steel trailer will work well in freshwater use, but for the long haul over the years and especially in salt water, the galvanized steel trailer is far better, albeit more expensive up front. Aluminum trailers are light and the aluminum non-corrosive, but many of the hardware components are still steel, so an aluminum trailer with mostly stainless steel secondary construction is better.
The debate between bunk trailer advocates and the "roller boys" goes on, but the bunks are simpler and cheaper, with the roller trailers shining when the ramp is shallow. That's when the "bunker boys" find it harder to back down far enough to float their boats off before the water enters over the running boards!
Disc brakes are generally considered better than drum brakes, mostly because they are easier to wash the salt out of, and they also dry out quicker, lessening rust. Drum brakes tend to corrode and rust more easily, and electric brakes (like on a travel trailer), are a no-no on any submersible trailer.
Surge brakes are the standard in trailers of this size, although there are some much more advanced electric over hydraulic systems that are excellent, though quite expensive.
Guide-ons or side guides are very valuable in centring the boat on retrieval in cross currents and winds, and they even make launching easier for the same reasons. They need to be high enough (just under the rub rails) to be fully functional.
For serious trailering over longer distances, good tires are essential. Radials are generally preferred, with Goodyear Marathons considered the top of the line. Conventional bias-ply tires work well for some, especailly over shorter distances.
Boat trailers come with a variety of lighting systems of different quality, and this is a subject unto itself. The newer LED lights are nice but not infalible, at least not yet. The chief problem is the use of minimal quality wiring and connectors, and I'd just consider a re-wiring job down the road 4 or more years a standard expected maintainence procedure.
Well, Bob, this will hopefully get you started. Others will also add their opinions and advice. A good way to mull through all the issues is to go to the
Trailers and Trailering Forum and so some reading.
Let us know how your thinking goes and good luck!
Got to go now to set a new land speed record on my jet ski at Shasta Lake and to the Carribean for a few weeks starting tomorrow.
Joe. :teeth
