Trailer can't back...

L

localboy

New member
Lockout solenoid DOA?

Kodiak disc brakes, Titan Model 10 surge actuator.

I tested the two black wires to it with a cheap tester light:
-truck running and in reverse
-hooked to good ground
-poked the "hot" wire and the little bulb lit, indicating 12 volts (I think)

So, the solenoid is getting power but I don't think it's functioning. (I think)

How can I test it to be sure, if that's even possible?
 
You should hear the solenoid as it clicks in (have someone else put the vehicle in reverse, with truck emergency brake set.)

I tend to not poke holes in the insulation of wires exposed to the elements, but that is a definitive way to check for the 12 volts. Be sure and cover the hole up with liquid tape.

I keep a spare small 12 volt battery around the shop, with some jumper wires, and then you can activate the wire to the solenoid (blue wire on the hitch wiring loom), With positive to the blue wire, and negative to ground. Again-hear or feel the solenoid "click" to lock out the surge brake activator.

If solenoid is bad--replace it.

To back up--there may be a hole in the frame just in back of the surge activator and you can put a bolt, or pin thru it==and the surge activator coupler group will not slide back.

I also carry a set of "Chain vise grips" and put the chain around the trailer tongue, and then clamp the vise grips shut, and that will keep the accusatory form sliding aft, and activating the brakes.
Chain vise grip:
618n-OLCNqL._AC_UL130_.jpg
 
I changed my Titan trailer from drum to kodiac disc brakes & lnstalled a new Titan surge coupler. It wasn't long before the trailer wheels locked up in reverse. Don't remember where I read it but the thread said the reverse actuator burns out on a regular basis so I just drilled a hole through the coupler & now just use a pin to lock out the surge when backing. Problem solved. I'm a very low tech kind of guy at 73. Seems like all life has to offer sometimes is petty hassles!!!
 
If your coupler has a slot for a pin to lock it, look around your garage for something strong enough to use or pickup another hitch pin with clip to use. We have the same feature but I have never even wired it up becuase I don't feel the need to back uphill with any regularity and if the need arises, I pull forward a bit and use the pin/clip to lock it out temporarily. I have carried that pin for years now and used it only once at a strangely sloped launch ramp turn around. 63 nights on this boat and the pin was only used once.

Greg
 
After reading some things on the net just after I posted, I'm pretty sure it's the solenoid. I clean and lube (dielectric spray/grease) all the plugs at least once a year due to the PNW's uhm, climate.

Yesterday I located a very bad connection in the hot lead to the solenoid and repaired it...thinking it would work. Nope. I then had the wife listen while I put the truck in reverse. She said she heard an almost imperceptible "click" but the trailer still locked up after less than 1' in reverse. I've heard/seen other solenoids (starters etc) and this "click" seems way too weak. I'm just gonna replace it this afternoon, bleed the brakes and see.

I looked for a lock out pin hole but it appears the Titan Model 10 does not have one. I agree that it is a much simpler solution although not as convenient. I replaced the entire coupler 4 yrs ago. But I'm almost to the point of going electric over hydraulic all together, but that would mean complete new brakes all around. So, I'm just gonna hold off until the brakes need replacement.
 
I realize you are trying to make a repair here, but I have similar issues, and incredibly short trips from our boat yard to the launch ramp. When my surge brakes give me a hassle, I use a C-clamp to simply hold the actuator open. Or I'll tape a rock in as a shim. If you can keep that from depressing you will be able to reverse.

If I have to rig this way to travel any distance, just undo whatever you rigged when it's time to go forward and you will have surge brakes.

As you noted, the PNW is tough on surge brakes. Other types of trailer brakes work much better here.
 
I thought about this option just as a short term solution, so we could at least make Friday Harbor this weekend. I do not possess a vice grip like Dr Bob suggested, but I do have a large 6' C clamp (it's needed for a specific VW bus repair) so that may be an option. :idea: 8)
 
I can thoroughly endorse going electric over hydraulic as it gives you way more control over the whole process.

Not so sure about your comment re:- replace the whole brakes. I think you only need to replace the hydraulic actuator with an electric driven pump/reservoir and an emergency battery for break away. Hook it up to your truck and, assuming you have a compatible controller in the truck (if not, get a clever one with progressive control) and you should be up and running +/- the usual Boat Unit :-)

If you do go that way, just remember to back off the controller if you are towing the trailer empty or your first stop is liable to produce clouds of tire smoke and rapid bowel movement from the person behind you. Don't ask how I know that.
 
localboy":380slxlk said:
I thought about this option just as a short term solution, so we could at least make Friday Harbor this weekend. I do not possess a vice grip like Dr Bob suggested, but I do have a large 6' C clamp (it's needed for a specific VW bus repair) so that may be an option. :idea: 8)
Click to expand...

You got this. Just remember to take the clamp off when you are done backing up and keep it handy for rest stops, etc. It should take care of business.
 
Just finished the repair. New solenoid and complete brake bleed. It works like a charm. The old brake fluid was rusty [colored] so I did a complete flush. Tested the new solenoid on a 12v battery. You could definitively hear it "click" vs the old one. Took apart the old one and it had rusty debris in it. Also found one of my seals on one hub is leaking grease. I'll deal with that next week. It should be OK for the FH trip but will need to be replaced.
 
I was under the impression that EOH took a specific disc brake due to higher pressure. I"ll have to do some checking on that. I am probably wrong. I have the stock Ford controller in the cab. I"ll check on compatibility too. I will have to replace all the hard/soft lines though. They are very rusty and the trailer is a 2007.
 
The Kodiak disc brakes are fine. You have to have the correct pressure cylinder and lines--You can keep most of what you have, but a good time to replace rusted lines.
 
localboy":xibip5q6 said:
I was under the impression that EOH took a specific disc brake due to higher pressure. I"ll have to do some checking on that. I am probably wrong. I have the stock Ford controller in the cab. I"ll check on compatibility too. I will have to replace all the hard/soft lines though. They are very rusty and the trailer is a 2007.
Click to expand...

Here's a link to a thread I started on EOH. it took a few conversations with EZ Loader, but I learned that my dual axle trailer used the same disks and actuators as the next heavier duty trailer that did have EOH. So basically, a conversion just required a new hitch, EOH actuator, battery for runaway, and wiring.

http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=25052&highlight=

You might find your trailer to be similar.
 
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