Towing position for Honda 90

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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I have towed two different TomCats ( 24' and 255 ) for over 50,000 miles. With the TomCat road clearance is not a problem because the boat sits over the wheels. I always position the motors in the full down position.

When I had a CD 22' I also left the motor down, but was much more careful driving through dips into and out of fuel stops and exiting and entering the road.

With our Tracker Targa 17', I have to use a motor support that goes from the lower unit to the trailer frame. This boat sits really low between the wheels and is a modified "V" hull. I position the motor almost all the way up and use the brace. I use two ratchet straps going from the motor to the transom tiedown eyes, on 45 degree angles. The straps attach to the Dolphin tail on the lower unit. I pull the straps tight, and they keep the motor from jumping up and down, or tipping off to one side on rough roads. Motor movement had been a major problem on the Tracker, it's a Merc 90 HP, short shaft. I have towed this boat 1500 miles and back to Texas, four times, without problems.

Brent
 
Bob/thataway has pointed out that Honda recommends towing with the motor fully down. The reason for this, as far as I can figure out, is that the tilt hydraulics are not supporting the engine, and the pivots are aligned.

Well, I'm sure that Honda has selected the best position for their motor, but I don't think it's the best position for hauling the boat. Honda doesn't care about the boat transom, and I'm certain they feel it's up to you to watch out that the lower unit doesn't hit pavement.

I look at it differently. I'm willing to rebuild the tilt hydraulics; it's a lot easier than replacing the lower unit when it hits some ditch I've missed. Also, I'm more concerned with the transom staying healthy than blowing the hydraulics. And those hydraulics have stayed healthy for 6 years now, over a lot of Interstates.

Different views from different people.

Boris
 
journey on":1xxicsrt said:
Bob/thataway has pointed out that Honda recommends towing with the motor fully down. The reason for this, as far as I can figure out, is that the tilt hydraulics are not supporting the engine, and the pivots are aligned.

Well, I'm sure that Honda has selected the best position for their motor, but I don't think it's the best position for hauling the boat. Honda doesn't care about the boat transom, and I'm certain they feel it's up to you to watch out that the lower unit doesn't hit pavement.

I look at it differently. "STUFF CLIPPED" .... those hydraulics have stayed healthy for 6 years now, over a lot of Interstates.

Different views from different people.

Boris
Click to expand...

I think you are right, Honda is thinking about their engines. I happen to like the Yamaha appproach.....(Partially up and braced) keeps the tail from dragging, and the load more centered over the transom.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

1_Honda_Power_2_B_ham_CBGT_2009_956.sized.jpg
 
when my Honda is up and the motor toter is in place it is only for transit to and from the ramp, longest road trips have been 4 or 5 hours. I have to agree with the earlier posts that I would rather have the hydraulics blow than have to replace the lower unit. when the boat is parked at home the motor is down until it's time to go fishing again.
 
Have not read through the whole thread; just want to say that my dealer told me to tilt the Honda 90 up with safety tab engaged.
I towed this boat from Seattle to Anchorage Alaska and pull it over 1800 miles every summer.
No problems....
 
It seems to me the easiest way to resolve this issue would be to:

1. not use the safety tab for towing

2. add a block of wood, padded with carpet, across the outboard bracket between the motor and bracket to transfer the load to the transom while also raising the motor half way up for road clearance.

3. strap the motor down in this position to inhibit bouncing higher than desired and to lock the wood piece in place

Now you have:

1. no load on the safety tab

2. road clearance

3. no load on motor trim and tilt hydraulics

4. no strut* between motor leg and trailer, which otherwise can act as a pumping lever on the motor and transom as boat and trailer ride differentially down the road when towed. (* so called "Transom Saver")

5. a secure, tight system transferring load to the transom, which must ultimately take it anyway. (You need to be sure the transom is at 100% of strength to take power loading when boating, regardless of trailer towing issues.)

****************

That would do it for me, at least.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
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