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Torqeedo Electric Outboards
- Thread starter drjohn71a
- Start date
MoWndr--thanks, and most interesting comments and links. I followed the links, and also read the PDF Book by Todd Wells.
There is also a most interesting thread by Panbo (Ben Ellison) with his experience--and the comments are even more instructive:
http://www.panbo.com/archives/2011/07/the_travel_1003_a_serious_case_of_torqeedo_love.html
You are currently running the 1003 on the WindRider--a fairly efficient hull.
What is your experience with range, and speed?
You propose to use it on the C Dory 22--an entirely different hull. As I understand it the 1003 is about equivalent to 4 hp. A 4 hp gas outboard will push the C Dory 3 to 4 knots. The experience on the Panbo link does show a McGregor 26 using the 1003. It is a more easily driven hull than the C Dory 22. The McGregor 26 at 45 watts 1 mph and 10 hours 100 watts, 2 mph and 6 hours, 300 watts, 3mph and 2 hours. At 650 watts, he gets about 4 mph and less than an hour, at 1025 watts, he gets 4.5 mph and 35 minutes. It seems as if the use on the C dory 22 would be extremely limited due to the range at higher power outputs. I am trying to envision how one would use the Torquedo on a C Dory 22?
From the last link that MoWndr posted they had done a run in an inflatable (?) of about 20 miles, and the author posted this table:
1003 Range and time with two batteries
Watts Speed in knots Range in nm Run time hrs
50 watts 1.5 to 2 25 to 40 20
150 watts 2.5 to 3 17 to 21 7
Full speed 4 to 5 4 to 5 1
The 12 volt charging cord is certainly good news--assuming that you have a good source of constant 12 volts--as of course is the solar array--either to charge a spare battery (not cheap) or the battery you are using, to increase the range.
There have been a number of issues with the E 45 error--which apparently is an over current error--as well as connections problems. Perhaps these are in older motors.
thanks for any thoughts!
There is also a most interesting thread by Panbo (Ben Ellison) with his experience--and the comments are even more instructive:
http://www.panbo.com/archives/2011/07/the_travel_1003_a_serious_case_of_torqeedo_love.html
You are currently running the 1003 on the WindRider--a fairly efficient hull.
What is your experience with range, and speed?
You propose to use it on the C Dory 22--an entirely different hull. As I understand it the 1003 is about equivalent to 4 hp. A 4 hp gas outboard will push the C Dory 3 to 4 knots. The experience on the Panbo link does show a McGregor 26 using the 1003. It is a more easily driven hull than the C Dory 22. The McGregor 26 at 45 watts 1 mph and 10 hours 100 watts, 2 mph and 6 hours, 300 watts, 3mph and 2 hours. At 650 watts, he gets about 4 mph and less than an hour, at 1025 watts, he gets 4.5 mph and 35 minutes. It seems as if the use on the C dory 22 would be extremely limited due to the range at higher power outputs. I am trying to envision how one would use the Torquedo on a C Dory 22?
From the last link that MoWndr posted they had done a run in an inflatable (?) of about 20 miles, and the author posted this table:
1003 Range and time with two batteries
Watts Speed in knots Range in nm Run time hrs
50 watts 1.5 to 2 25 to 40 20
150 watts 2.5 to 3 17 to 21 7
Full speed 4 to 5 4 to 5 1
The 12 volt charging cord is certainly good news--assuming that you have a good source of constant 12 volts--as of course is the solar array--either to charge a spare battery (not cheap) or the battery you are using, to increase the range.
There have been a number of issues with the E 45 error--which apparently is an over current error--as well as connections problems. Perhaps these are in older motors.
thanks for any thoughts!
Some interesting facts about the travel 503 and 1003 models that I have long suspected but not found evidence for.
Condensed version....You can charge the built-in battery directly from a 12v source at up to a 4amp rate even while the torqeedo motor is running. For some reason the company has not produced an accessory cord to do this although they mention it in the user manual but neglect to make that cable available. I also found a couple of owners who have been doing just that with homemade cables successfully for over a year. I think that ability would make it much more appealing to cruisers. Talk about range extending.....these just became far more feasible at least to me.
http://www.nestawayboats.com/page37.htm
Condensed version....You can charge the built-in battery directly from a 12v source at up to a 4amp rate even while the torqeedo motor is running. For some reason the company has not produced an accessory cord to do this although they mention it in the user manual but neglect to make that cable available. I also found a couple of owners who have been doing just that with homemade cables successfully for over a year. I think that ability would make it much more appealing to cruisers. Talk about range extending.....these just became far more feasible at least to me.
http://www.nestawayboats.com/page37.htm
I own a Torqueedo 1003s Travel.....with lithium ion battery.
I use it on my Seasport inflatable..approx 80 lbs.
At a slow trolling speed the battery will give me power for up to 18 hours without recharging.....but , .....if I run the motor at full power the charge only lasts approx. 15 minutes.
This Torqueedo (1003) model cannot be expected to propel any heavy boat any great distance especially if there is wind and currents to contend with.
I own a CD 19 angler and am considering putting the Torqueedo to the test here in the Crescent Beach/ Georgia Strait area to see if it can be used as an emergency kicker.
The 1003 motor with the removable battery that simply attaches to the too of the motor has been totally realiable for me. The throttle handle lcd display is excellent in that it gives me readings on percent of battery charge available and also the amount of power being used....the built in gps also determines how far you can travel based on the remaining charge.
Great for really small boats but I do not think it practical on REAL boats.
Hope this helps.
I use it on my Seasport inflatable..approx 80 lbs.
At a slow trolling speed the battery will give me power for up to 18 hours without recharging.....but , .....if I run the motor at full power the charge only lasts approx. 15 minutes.
This Torqueedo (1003) model cannot be expected to propel any heavy boat any great distance especially if there is wind and currents to contend with.
I own a CD 19 angler and am considering putting the Torqueedo to the test here in the Crescent Beach/ Georgia Strait area to see if it can be used as an emergency kicker.
The 1003 motor with the removable battery that simply attaches to the too of the motor has been totally realiable for me. The throttle handle lcd display is excellent in that it gives me readings on percent of battery charge available and also the amount of power being used....the built in gps also determines how far you can travel based on the remaining charge.
Great for really small boats but I do not think it practical on REAL boats.
Hope this helps.
There is more discussion on this thread about the 1003 motor.
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t= ... sc&start=0
Also, this is what I posted in that thread about our experience using the 1003 as a kicker on our 19 angler.
-------------------------------------------
We had the first chance to test our 1003 model on the boat Sunday morning.
Location:
Liberty Bay in Poulsbo
Sunny and glassy (no wind)
tide not a factor (high peak)
We started with the battery at 99% and tested slower to faster so the range estimates taken from the display would be a bit higher if we had started with that specific speed from the beginning.
With our heavily loaded 19 angler (2.5 adults,full fuel, and loads of stuff) we saw the following numbers:
30 watts = 1.2mph - 1kn - 17 hours on standard battery 20.4 statute mile range estimate
60 watts = 1.6mph - 1.4kn - 8.5 hours on standard battery 13.6 statute mile range estimate
97 watts = 2mph - 1.7kn - 5 hours on standard battery 10 statute mile range estimate
199 watts = 2.5mph - 2.2kn - 2.5 hours on standard battery 6.25 statute mile range estimate
509 watts = 3.3mph - 2.9kn - 1.1 hours on standard battery 3.63 statute mile range estimate
937 watts = 3.9mph - 3.4kn - 30 minutes on standard battery 1.95 statute mile range estimate
30 watts is the standard charge rate from the included charger whether it is connected to 120v AC or 12v DC. We will charge the battery from the house batteries on the boat and because it can charge while running, one could run at the 30 watts rate for a looooong time or just keep it connected to extend range at a higher speed.
60 watts is an estimate of the fast charge rate (I don't currently have one to test) for the available 85w fast charger. This higher charge rate is directly from an AC source or a higher voltage DC source at 24v+. The details of that DC feed are in the works to be tested but my first step-up converter turned out to be a dud. Range extending at this charge rate should also be possible.
We were happy with the thrust provided by this motor for our 19 and no longer have ANY anxiety about using it for a backup motor. The limited speed of less than 4mph means we will not affectively go against a strong current but that will never be necessary. We will have to think more like a sailboat when relying on the Torqeedo. It will be more than capable of pushing us to safety and away from dangers as we motor for the nearest safe anchorage and ride the tides as needed.
The approximately 6 mile range at 2.5mph is really the sweet spot for us and the distances we are normally dealing with in the Puget Sound and BC. With a charging cord connected, we could always stop for a while at the first safe spot we reach and try to "fix" the issue we are having while the range grows slowly back toward the 100% mark again. Our house bank could charge the Torqeedo battery at least twice more without any trouble. When our safety is concerned, our urgency to get there is no longer a factor.
Now I just need to refine the motor mounting.....
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t= ... sc&start=0
Also, this is what I posted in that thread about our experience using the 1003 as a kicker on our 19 angler.
-------------------------------------------
We had the first chance to test our 1003 model on the boat Sunday morning.
Location:
Liberty Bay in Poulsbo
Sunny and glassy (no wind)
tide not a factor (high peak)
We started with the battery at 99% and tested slower to faster so the range estimates taken from the display would be a bit higher if we had started with that specific speed from the beginning.
With our heavily loaded 19 angler (2.5 adults,full fuel, and loads of stuff) we saw the following numbers:
30 watts = 1.2mph - 1kn - 17 hours on standard battery 20.4 statute mile range estimate
60 watts = 1.6mph - 1.4kn - 8.5 hours on standard battery 13.6 statute mile range estimate
97 watts = 2mph - 1.7kn - 5 hours on standard battery 10 statute mile range estimate
199 watts = 2.5mph - 2.2kn - 2.5 hours on standard battery 6.25 statute mile range estimate
509 watts = 3.3mph - 2.9kn - 1.1 hours on standard battery 3.63 statute mile range estimate
937 watts = 3.9mph - 3.4kn - 30 minutes on standard battery 1.95 statute mile range estimate
30 watts is the standard charge rate from the included charger whether it is connected to 120v AC or 12v DC. We will charge the battery from the house batteries on the boat and because it can charge while running, one could run at the 30 watts rate for a looooong time or just keep it connected to extend range at a higher speed.
60 watts is an estimate of the fast charge rate (I don't currently have one to test) for the available 85w fast charger. This higher charge rate is directly from an AC source or a higher voltage DC source at 24v+. The details of that DC feed are in the works to be tested but my first step-up converter turned out to be a dud. Range extending at this charge rate should also be possible.
We were happy with the thrust provided by this motor for our 19 and no longer have ANY anxiety about using it for a backup motor. The limited speed of less than 4mph means we will not affectively go against a strong current but that will never be necessary. We will have to think more like a sailboat when relying on the Torqeedo. It will be more than capable of pushing us to safety and away from dangers as we motor for the nearest safe anchorage and ride the tides as needed.
The approximately 6 mile range at 2.5mph is really the sweet spot for us and the distances we are normally dealing with in the Puget Sound and BC. With a charging cord connected, we could always stop for a while at the first safe spot we reach and try to "fix" the issue we are having while the range grows slowly back toward the 100% mark again. Our house bank could charge the Torqeedo battery at least twice more without any trouble. When our safety is concerned, our urgency to get there is no longer a factor.
Now I just need to refine the motor mounting.....
South of Heaven
New member
Aurelia":3mv961bo said:There is more discussion on this thread about the 1003 motor.
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t= ... sc&start=0
Also, this is what I posted in that thread about our experience using the 1003 as a kicker on our 19 angler.
-------------------------------------------
We had the first chance to test our 1003 model on the boat Sunday morning.
Location:
Liberty Bay in Poulsbo
Sunny and glassy (no wind)
tide not a factor (high peak)
We started with the battery at 99% and tested slower to faster so the range estimates taken from the display would be a bit higher if we had started with that specific speed from the beginning.
With our heavily loaded 19 angler (2.5 adults,full fuel, and loads of stuff) we saw the following numbers:
30 watts = 1.2mph - 1kn - 17 hours on standard battery 20.4 statute mile range estimate
60 watts = 1.6mph - 1.4kn - 8.5 hours on standard battery 13.6 statute mile range estimate
97 watts = 2mph - 1.7kn - 5 hours on standard battery 10 statute mile range estimate
199 watts = 2.5mph - 2.2kn - 2.5 hours on standard battery 6.25 statute mile range estimate
509 watts = 3.3mph - 2.9kn - 1.1 hours on standard battery 3.63 statute mile range estimate
937 watts = 3.9mph - 3.4kn - 30 minutes on standard battery 1.95 statute mile range estimate
30 watts is the standard charge rate from the included charger whether it is connected to 120v AC or 12v DC. We will charge the battery from the house batteries on the boat and because it can charge while running, one could run at the 30 watts rate for a looooong time or just keep it connected to extend range at a higher speed.
60 watts is an estimate of the fast charge rate (I don't currently have one to test) for the available 85w fast charger. This higher charge rate is directly from an AC source or a higher voltage DC source at 24v+. The details of that DC feed are in the works to be tested but my first step-up converter turned out to be a dud. Range extending at this charge rate should also be possible.
We were happy with the thrust provided by this motor for our 19 and no longer have ANY anxiety about using it for a backup motor. The limited speed of less than 4mph means we will not affectively go against a strong current but that will never be necessary. We will have to think more like a sailboat when relying on the Torqeedo. It will be more than capable of pushing us to safety and away from dangers as we motor for the nearest safe anchorage and ride the tides as needed.
The approximately 6 mile range at 2.5mph is really the sweet spot for us and the distances we are normally dealing with in the Puget Sound and BC. With a charging cord connected, we could always stop for a while at the first safe spot we reach and try to "fix" the issue we are having while the range grows slowly back toward the 100% mark again. Our house bank could charge the Torqeedo battery at least twice more without any trouble. When our safety is concerned, our urgency to get there is no longer a factor.
Now I just need to refine the motor mounting.....
Your original review/write-up was from 2014. Do you still stand by your first post? ; in that you would feel confident with the 1003 as a kicker on the 19? I like how you phrased it by saying "you would use it to get to a safer area" and "anchorage".
That would probably work for my needs as well for 2 reasons.
1. I have US BOAT coverage and am usually boating within "covered waters".
2. I hardly ever used the kicker on the 16 at all!
I'd like to hear more of your and others updated 2016 thoughts on the 1003. I love the idea of a super light, gas free and ZERO maintenance kicker.
We still like the Torqeedo and I do stand by my previous statements about our kicker use for the 19. There is however one recent development that may limit our future torqeedo needs.
We recently bought a near new Suzuki 2.5, and I have installed new V-lock mounts on the 19 transom and dinghy transom to allow plug-n-play motor use for either the Suzuki or Torqeedo. No more twisting of motor clamps for me.
In the last two years, we have done three specific trips (long runs, bigger water) in the boat where the limited kicker range of the Torqeedo made me (not worry per se), but think about how long I could stand to not have a small gas option as well at least for those trips. I knew the original mount on the 19 would have to be changed slightly to work with a short shaft Suzuki, and the current mount was failing and needed to be replaced anyway. So I took the opportunity to get the second motor and setup the boat for either. I have only used the little Suzuki once so far on the dingy and not yet on the 19 but I think it will work pretty well. It runs the 12ft Kaboat a little faster than the Torqeedo and is reasonably quiet at idle, in gear pushing 2.5 knots. We still like the Torqeedo, but to be honest, we plan to test the Suzuki further this spring, and if we don't miss the quieter dinghy operation of the Torqeedo too much, we may end up getting rid of it. I don't really like to keep what I don't use although a used 1003 would be of limited value and I can't say I would be too excited to buy that type of product used myself.
Our kicker use is almost exclusively for the dinghy, and the "short" shaft of the torqeedo is still quite long and did require extra care when approaching or leaving shore. The way I have the dinghy setup now, works better with the short shaft Suzuki and only protrudes as much as it needs to for a shallower underwater profile saving about 8-10 inches of draft. So that is a bonus for us as well.
We shall see how it goes...
Greg
We recently bought a near new Suzuki 2.5, and I have installed new V-lock mounts on the 19 transom and dinghy transom to allow plug-n-play motor use for either the Suzuki or Torqeedo. No more twisting of motor clamps for me.
In the last two years, we have done three specific trips (long runs, bigger water) in the boat where the limited kicker range of the Torqeedo made me (not worry per se), but think about how long I could stand to not have a small gas option as well at least for those trips. I knew the original mount on the 19 would have to be changed slightly to work with a short shaft Suzuki, and the current mount was failing and needed to be replaced anyway. So I took the opportunity to get the second motor and setup the boat for either. I have only used the little Suzuki once so far on the dingy and not yet on the 19 but I think it will work pretty well. It runs the 12ft Kaboat a little faster than the Torqeedo and is reasonably quiet at idle, in gear pushing 2.5 knots. We still like the Torqeedo, but to be honest, we plan to test the Suzuki further this spring, and if we don't miss the quieter dinghy operation of the Torqeedo too much, we may end up getting rid of it. I don't really like to keep what I don't use although a used 1003 would be of limited value and I can't say I would be too excited to buy that type of product used myself.
Our kicker use is almost exclusively for the dinghy, and the "short" shaft of the torqeedo is still quite long and did require extra care when approaching or leaving shore. The way I have the dinghy setup now, works better with the short shaft Suzuki and only protrudes as much as it needs to for a shallower underwater profile saving about 8-10 inches of draft. So that is a bonus for us as well.
We shall see how it goes...
Greg
Marco Flamingo
Active member
Greg,
How is your Suzuki attached to the V-Mount? Using the stock clamps? I have a Suzuki 2.5 hp and a Minn Kota electric that would be nice to swap out depending on what I'm doing. Any concerns about the V-Mount being rugged enough to handle the Suzuki in the water or on the trailer?
Mark
How is your Suzuki attached to the V-Mount? Using the stock clamps? I have a Suzuki 2.5 hp and a Minn Kota electric that would be nice to swap out depending on what I'm doing. Any concerns about the V-Mount being rugged enough to handle the Suzuki in the water or on the trailer?
Mark
I have one bad picture on hand but let me take a few more tonight for added clarity.
It does use the stock clamps to mount to a small wood block bolted to the V-lock aluminum plate. I have the female V-lock bracket mounted to both boat and dinghy transoms and they are quite strong enough for this class of engine. I would not put a 10hp unit on it but I have used the torqeedo and Suzuki on them with no worry. You almost have to see one in person before you trust it but they are really overbuilt units. When the motor is tilted and locked upward on the C-dory, the weight of the kicker does just barely flex the mount plate (7/16 thick aluminum) enough to allow a little wiggle but I secure it backward with a strap from the grab handle in that position anyway and that strap negates any movement.
I also use a simple hand spun hex bolt as the lock key instead of the supplied spring pin to allow for easier use when both hands are lifting the motor.
I can just back the key bolt off a few turns and reach out and lift the motor and mount together and simply slide the whole deal into the mount on the dinghy and spin that key bolt a few turns to lock.
I was tired of leaning over and spinning mount clamps 4 times per anchorage.
Greg
It does use the stock clamps to mount to a small wood block bolted to the V-lock aluminum plate. I have the female V-lock bracket mounted to both boat and dinghy transoms and they are quite strong enough for this class of engine. I would not put a 10hp unit on it but I have used the torqeedo and Suzuki on them with no worry. You almost have to see one in person before you trust it but they are really overbuilt units. When the motor is tilted and locked upward on the C-dory, the weight of the kicker does just barely flex the mount plate (7/16 thick aluminum) enough to allow a little wiggle but I secure it backward with a strap from the grab handle in that position anyway and that strap negates any movement.
I also use a simple hand spun hex bolt as the lock key instead of the supplied spring pin to allow for easier use when both hands are lifting the motor.
I can just back the key bolt off a few turns and reach out and lift the motor and mount together and simply slide the whole deal into the mount on the dinghy and spin that key bolt a few turns to lock.
I was tired of leaning over and spinning mount clamps 4 times per anchorage.
Greg
I can also comment on this. We have been using the Torqeedo as a dinghy motor--(see my comments on its use during the emergency at Lake Powell this last summer)
We also have a 3.5 hp Merc 3 stroke, which weighs 30 lbs, and we do carry it as an emergency kicker--and occasional use on the dinghy,.
The Torqeedo, is going to be slow on a 19 or 22., but a bit better on your 16. We did our initial studies of the torqeedo on our 18' catamaran--probably easier driven than a 16, because of the very narrow hulls. I agree with Greg, that there are places where you want a bit more range --the emphasis, on range vs speed.
We have not found the depth of the Torqeedo to be an issue at Lake Powell or Catalina/Florida when using it on the dinghy. It is light enough to easily pull up as you near land, and the entire lower unit is out of the water despite its length.
The Suzuki 2.5 4 stroke is an excellent outboard.
We also have a 3.5 hp Merc 3 stroke, which weighs 30 lbs, and we do carry it as an emergency kicker--and occasional use on the dinghy,.
The Torqeedo, is going to be slow on a 19 or 22., but a bit better on your 16. We did our initial studies of the torqeedo on our 18' catamaran--probably easier driven than a 16, because of the very narrow hulls. I agree with Greg, that there are places where you want a bit more range --the emphasis, on range vs speed.
We have not found the depth of the Torqeedo to be an issue at Lake Powell or Catalina/Florida when using it on the dinghy. It is light enough to easily pull up as you near land, and the entire lower unit is out of the water despite its length.
The Suzuki 2.5 4 stroke is an excellent outboard.
I added a few pics with descriptions for reference. They start here,
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _photo.php
Greg
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _photo.php
Greg
New products from Torqeedo can be seen in the 2016 catalog.
http://demandware.edgesuite.net/aaud_pr ... 016-us.pdf
Highlights,
-Three charger options plus a 12v option for the travel line of batteries but check compatibility closely.
-New larger capacity spare battery option for a measly $999
-New solar charger option
-USB connector for battery for device charging and solar charging
-Lots of new larger outboard, inboard, and pod/sail drive units
-all of it still quite expensive overall
I bought ours for experimentation more than anything else and while quirky in some of the details, it is enjoyable if a little fussy to use. Now that we have a gas motor as well, the Torqeedo has competition on Ari. While I am all for new technology of any type, I grew up racing, rebuilding, and enjoying small gas motors, so gas motor fussiness is somehow easier for me to ignore. Cindie prefers electric, and I like gas.....More testing to come on proving the capability of that little Suzuki. Luckily, Cindie is more logical than not and will go with the best overall solution.
Greg
http://demandware.edgesuite.net/aaud_pr ... 016-us.pdf
Highlights,
-Three charger options plus a 12v option for the travel line of batteries but check compatibility closely.
-New larger capacity spare battery option for a measly $999
-New solar charger option
-USB connector for battery for device charging and solar charging
-Lots of new larger outboard, inboard, and pod/sail drive units
-all of it still quite expensive overall
I bought ours for experimentation more than anything else and while quirky in some of the details, it is enjoyable if a little fussy to use. Now that we have a gas motor as well, the Torqeedo has competition on Ari. While I am all for new technology of any type, I grew up racing, rebuilding, and enjoying small gas motors, so gas motor fussiness is somehow easier for me to ignore. Cindie prefers electric, and I like gas.....More testing to come on proving the capability of that little Suzuki. Luckily, Cindie is more logical than not and will go with the best overall solution.
Greg
Thanks Greg. The catalogue takes a while to download, but worth browsing thru. It appears that this technology has come of age--and the extensive development by Torqeedo is paying off, with some truly practical motors and drive options.
I have not found our Torqeedo 1003 at all quirky--and don't know exactly what Greg means by that. We used it daily last summer for a month, and had zero problems, including when it was an integral part of the rescue.
The new $900 battery seems expensive, but it is $300 more than the standard, and gives almost twice the range. For us that is probably something worth having, especially since we will be using the dinghy on the St. John's to explore side rivers etc.
Although we still carry a 3.5 hp as the kicker in case we have to go some distance, we find the Torqeedo works very well as a light weight dinghy motor.
For those technically inclined--look at the new motors--truly amazing!
I have not found our Torqeedo 1003 at all quirky--and don't know exactly what Greg means by that. We used it daily last summer for a month, and had zero problems, including when it was an integral part of the rescue.
The new $900 battery seems expensive, but it is $300 more than the standard, and gives almost twice the range. For us that is probably something worth having, especially since we will be using the dinghy on the St. John's to explore side rivers etc.
Although we still carry a 3.5 hp as the kicker in case we have to go some distance, we find the Torqeedo works very well as a light weight dinghy motor.
For those technically inclined--look at the new motors--truly amazing!
Bob and others--
Just when I've settled on the Suzuki DF 2.5 to power the inflatable dinghy, along come you guys with all this talk about the Torqeedo. Other than it's twice the costs of the 2.5-hp Suzuki, the Torqeedo Travel 1003 S looks like all I would need.
http://www.torqeedo.com/en/products/outboards/travel/travel-1003/M-1142-00.html
Does anyone have anything negative to say about the new age in small dinghy motors?
--Georgs
Just when I've settled on the Suzuki DF 2.5 to power the inflatable dinghy, along come you guys with all this talk about the Torqeedo. Other than it's twice the costs of the 2.5-hp Suzuki, the Torqeedo Travel 1003 S looks like all I would need.
http://www.torqeedo.com/en/products/outboards/travel/travel-1003/M-1142-00.html
Does anyone have anything negative to say about the new age in small dinghy motors?
--Georgs
I can elaborate on some of the quirks of operation for the 1003 model we have been using on two inflatables plus our 19.
1. Error codes - if the throttle is moved too quickly from forward to reverse, or just too abruptly in general, you can get an error condition that shuts down the engine and displays the error on the LCD screen. Then you need to disconnect the power cable to reset and start over again. This has happened to us about 5 times total and is not a big deal and may be avoidable all together with gentler operation. Really an annoyance only thus far.
2. Motor stutter - When pushing a light dinghy without much load on board and running at higher throttle or full throttle. The motor seems to predictably hit a rev limiter and stutter in an annoying fashion (think antilock brakes) but again this can be avoided with throttle control and depending on the load, may never be encountered.
3. Parts - There are a few, and managing them gets a little old at times. One of the advantages of this motor is the travel design, meaning it comes apart for storage or transport. This makes for a light engine and the design of the parts is logical. The simple actions for us of gathering the drive unit from the back of the boat, and the tiller and battery from the helm area, plus the battery and steering lock pins and making sure you have the magnetic kill lanyard becomes a little tedious day after day of using the boat. We don't leave it fully assembled all the time mainly for security reasons and to keep some of the parts out of the weather overnight.
It only takes about a minute or two to assemble the parts into a finished product, but it always reminds me of the little gas units that are all-in-one and ready to go.
4. Shaft length - The short shaft is 24.5 inches long and the long is 29.5 inches long (compared to 15 and 20 for most outboards). For primary use as a dinghy motor on a short transom equipped inflatable, the length is simply excessive and this relates to shore landing, launching, and sometimes simply cruising around in the shallows trying to remember that the prop is drafting about 10-15 inches further down than it needs to. I wired as a kayaker so I think I notice this a little more.
5. Steering - There is a simple pin that drops in placed to lock the steering straight but no steering tensioner of any kind. We find this annoying only when tilting the motor up at the beach to then have the heavy rear mounted battery swing the motor tiller up with no tension to slow it down or stop it. That little pin would need to be inserted to avoid this or just let the motor skeg rest on the shore. It swings around with significant force.
6. General build details - Overall, the unit is nicely engineered but I can't help but notice a few plastic components that don't quite align or fit snugly to neighboring components. Don't get me wrong, its not fragile or falling apart on us, I only wish there was a screw or bolt in some locations that could simply be tightened as a remedy to a gap. Over-engineered (not overbuilt), at least slightly, would be my diagnosis. The special magnetic kill switch would fall into that category as well.
We like it, and it does exactly what is says it does, you just have to play by revised rules.
Greg
1. Error codes - if the throttle is moved too quickly from forward to reverse, or just too abruptly in general, you can get an error condition that shuts down the engine and displays the error on the LCD screen. Then you need to disconnect the power cable to reset and start over again. This has happened to us about 5 times total and is not a big deal and may be avoidable all together with gentler operation. Really an annoyance only thus far.
2. Motor stutter - When pushing a light dinghy without much load on board and running at higher throttle or full throttle. The motor seems to predictably hit a rev limiter and stutter in an annoying fashion (think antilock brakes) but again this can be avoided with throttle control and depending on the load, may never be encountered.
3. Parts - There are a few, and managing them gets a little old at times. One of the advantages of this motor is the travel design, meaning it comes apart for storage or transport. This makes for a light engine and the design of the parts is logical. The simple actions for us of gathering the drive unit from the back of the boat, and the tiller and battery from the helm area, plus the battery and steering lock pins and making sure you have the magnetic kill lanyard becomes a little tedious day after day of using the boat. We don't leave it fully assembled all the time mainly for security reasons and to keep some of the parts out of the weather overnight.
It only takes about a minute or two to assemble the parts into a finished product, but it always reminds me of the little gas units that are all-in-one and ready to go.
4. Shaft length - The short shaft is 24.5 inches long and the long is 29.5 inches long (compared to 15 and 20 for most outboards). For primary use as a dinghy motor on a short transom equipped inflatable, the length is simply excessive and this relates to shore landing, launching, and sometimes simply cruising around in the shallows trying to remember that the prop is drafting about 10-15 inches further down than it needs to. I wired as a kayaker so I think I notice this a little more.
5. Steering - There is a simple pin that drops in placed to lock the steering straight but no steering tensioner of any kind. We find this annoying only when tilting the motor up at the beach to then have the heavy rear mounted battery swing the motor tiller up with no tension to slow it down or stop it. That little pin would need to be inserted to avoid this or just let the motor skeg rest on the shore. It swings around with significant force.
6. General build details - Overall, the unit is nicely engineered but I can't help but notice a few plastic components that don't quite align or fit snugly to neighboring components. Don't get me wrong, its not fragile or falling apart on us, I only wish there was a screw or bolt in some locations that could simply be tightened as a remedy to a gap. Over-engineered (not overbuilt), at least slightly, would be my diagnosis. The special magnetic kill switch would fall into that category as well.
We like it, and it does exactly what is says it does, you just have to play by revised rules.
Greg
Greg, Thanks for the response.
No need to disconnect the power cable, if you get the error code (the shut down is to prevent damage to the drive train). You just turn it off, by removing the magnetic "key".
Never had the "motor stutter, but I rarely go full speed. I suspect this is to protect from overload-Max RPM is 1200.
We leave the motor assembled when the boat is at anchor and on the transom, including when charging.--all of the motor goes into the dingy on the cabin top.
We tie the plastic parts to the battery pack handle, with dacron line, which stays in place when using the motor--so no misplaced parts--just lower unit/base, battery and handle. Nothing weighs more than 11 lbs.
You do have to pull the motor up when you beach it--but there is a lock for the motor all of the way up, and have not had an issue.
Haven't have any problem when beaching--but do lock the shaft up. I let it come around and leave it at "natural" position. You do have to tilt the motor forward when coming into shoal water. Always have hand on tiller when under way.
Again, I think the general build issues are personal--I have lots of complaints about the best of outboard motors...let alone the occasional carburetor rebuilds, pull start, storing and pouring gasoline etc...but I still have gas engines...
No need to disconnect the power cable, if you get the error code (the shut down is to prevent damage to the drive train). You just turn it off, by removing the magnetic "key".
Never had the "motor stutter, but I rarely go full speed. I suspect this is to protect from overload-Max RPM is 1200.
We leave the motor assembled when the boat is at anchor and on the transom, including when charging.--all of the motor goes into the dingy on the cabin top.
We tie the plastic parts to the battery pack handle, with dacron line, which stays in place when using the motor--so no misplaced parts--just lower unit/base, battery and handle. Nothing weighs more than 11 lbs.
You do have to pull the motor up when you beach it--but there is a lock for the motor all of the way up, and have not had an issue.
Haven't have any problem when beaching--but do lock the shaft up. I let it come around and leave it at "natural" position. You do have to tilt the motor forward when coming into shoal water. Always have hand on tiller when under way.
Again, I think the general build issues are personal--I have lots of complaints about the best of outboard motors...let alone the occasional carburetor rebuilds, pull start, storing and pouring gasoline etc...but I still have gas engines...
I was doing research on the 1103 and 1003 torqeedos and came across a 1003S on the used market so of course I wanted to consult c-dory owners so I looked up and read all the discussions about the torqeedo 1003 on c-brats.
Uses for me:
easy-peasy dinghy motor or emergency kicker just to get to a safe place and wait for Towboat-US if broken down in a bad spot.
question:
would you buy a 5 year old used torqeedo 1003S with two batteries, charger, remote throttle (likely won't use) charger, wires etc. with about 100 hrs for $1400 or would you just get a new one (they are about $2000) and skip the extra battery.
I like the idea of having the extra battery so we always have a fully charged battery even when we leave an anchorage where we may have used the motor on the dinghy in case of an emergency AND to double the range if they are both charged either on the dinghy or as kicker.
Still up in the air!
Options for the 22 for the great loop are:
-no dinghy / kicker motor (Towboat-US of course)
-brand new 4 stroke suzuki 2.5 or equivalent.
-brand new torqeedo 1003
-the used 1003 with extra battery I mention above.
I know there is tons of discussion about electric VS. gas
and I'm still open to the gas option but seeing as this opportunity to buy a used torqeedo with extra battery has come up I would like to hear from people with experience with owning the Torqueedos for a while and whether they feel a 5 year old model makes sense to buy used to save (quite) a few bucks.
As usual I look forward to the responses.
Uses for me:
easy-peasy dinghy motor or emergency kicker just to get to a safe place and wait for Towboat-US if broken down in a bad spot.
question:
would you buy a 5 year old used torqeedo 1003S with two batteries, charger, remote throttle (likely won't use) charger, wires etc. with about 100 hrs for $1400 or would you just get a new one (they are about $2000) and skip the extra battery.
I like the idea of having the extra battery so we always have a fully charged battery even when we leave an anchorage where we may have used the motor on the dinghy in case of an emergency AND to double the range if they are both charged either on the dinghy or as kicker.
Still up in the air!
Options for the 22 for the great loop are:
-no dinghy / kicker motor (Towboat-US of course)
-brand new 4 stroke suzuki 2.5 or equivalent.
-brand new torqeedo 1003
-the used 1003 with extra battery I mention above.
I know there is tons of discussion about electric VS. gas
and I'm still open to the gas option but seeing as this opportunity to buy a used torqeedo with extra battery has come up I would like to hear from people with experience with owning the Torqueedos for a while and whether they feel a 5 year old model makes sense to buy used to save (quite) a few bucks.
As usual I look forward to the responses.
I think this question would be similar if you are buying a used gas motor, or anything mechanical used for that matter. These things seem very well made, and could last indefinitely, but there have been problems reported, particularly when they first came out, and earlier there were posts about lack support for fixing them. I'm not sure about support now, but current online reviews are about the same as for 2 hp Hondas, which I also have...also flawless.sebastien":2bze8bzs said:question:
would you buy a 5 year old used torqeedo 1003S with two batteries, charger, remote throttle (likely won't use) charger, wires etc. with about 100 hrs for $1400 or would you just get a new one (they are about $2000) and skip the extra battery.
You do have the unknown of whether they are selling because of problems. If I could have a good period of testing it within a return window, I'l definitely buy the used one. My Torqeedo has worked perfectly all of the time since I bought it in 2015, though it is not the same as your's...it is the kayak model.
There is this one as an alternative. Cheaper than a Torqeedo. While it seems ok for a dinghy, it might not be powerful enough for a kicker.
https://www.electricpaddle.com/index.html
https://www.electricpaddle.com/index.html