Titan 10 actuator questions

[localboy]

Titan Model #10 surge actuator.
-How long should it last?
-What kind of force is needed to activate the emergency break away lever?

Reason I'm asking is I was out doing basic maintenance on the trailer (grease hubs, check brake fluid, grease things up etc) and the master cylinder and actuator look pretty rusty after our wet winter. I tried to pull the actuator lever by hand; no luck. So I used the truck to pull it, to make sure it's working. It did not activate but straightened out the "S" hook instead. :shock: This tells me something is amiss. Removed the lever, looked down inside and everything looks OK but it's a rusty mess.

Time for a new one? The trailer is a 2007 King Saltwater.

http://titan-intl.com/files/Trailer_Components/IIs/model10ii.pdf

 

[starcrafttom]

you should be able to pull that level by hand.

 

[localboy]

Nope. Can't be done, Tom. I pulled out a pipe and used it for leverage. Moved more but never got near the past vertical like the manual shows. Seemed like the brakes were activating (I could hear them). But, when I used the pipe, the master cylinder and solenoid began to move rearward too, from the torque. Something is wrong. Seems like it's binding up somewhere. I don't have time for this. Time to call Estes.

 

[journey on]

I hate to spend your money frivolusy, but; Trailer brakes are important. Spend the $130 and change out the whole actuator unit. If the outside is that rusty, time for a new one. TITAN / DICO Model 60Z Wheel Lock Drum Brake Actuator

You can say thanks after you're able to stop.

Boris

 

[localboy]

I hate to spend your money frivolusy, but; Trailer brakes are important. Spend the $130 and change out the whole actuator unit. If the outside is that rusty, time for a new one. TITAN / DICO Model 60Z Wheel Lock Drum Brake Actuator

You can say thanks after you're able to stop.

Boris

Oh, I totally agree. Hence, my concern. If it needs a new actuator, so be it. Just wanna be sure. I re-did the entire brake system 2 yrs ago but did not change the m/c or anything forward.

I have discs too, so I'd have to have an actuator that works with them.

 

[localboy]

Not many responses.

I called Gary Estes. His advice to me; "If it's really rusty and crusty, just buy a new one". Apparently, they are not worth rebuilding, even though parts are available. Although he'd be willing to do it, if I wanna "pay his price". He said he "cringes" when he's asked to work on trailers used in saltwater.

So, I'm scouring the web looking for the best deal. Gonna just suck it up and buy one, which will allow us to tow the boat safely. Then I'll take the old one apart and see what's what this winter. If it's economically feasible, I'll re-build it and have a spare. Break out another thousand....well, actually about $350. That's a lot of gas.... :x

 

[Aurelia]

Bummer Mark but trailer parts seem to go pretty fast sometimes. We keep boats in a metal shed but the couplers stick out the front and are exposed to the elements. I slip a 5 gallon bucket over each of the couplers and it really seems too keep those components healthier. Keeps the electrical connector, chains/cables and coupler relatively dry and un molested plus I use orange buckets so they don't get backed into by guests in the driveway. Better luck next time.

Greg