The Cruising Adventures of Wild Blue and crew...

Sunday, August 5th. Joan made pancakes and sausage for breakfast - nice way to start the day. We cleaned up, topped off water, and took Molly for a walk on land. We’ve really enjoyed our time at Refuge Cove.

Here's a photo-art image of the store I worked up while here...

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It was around 11:00 when we were ready to shove off, and already traffic around the docks was picking up. We dodged a few incoming boats and made our way across the cove. Things are different in a place like this: things you take for granted aren’t easy to come by here... like electricity (they have a big old generator to make power), fresh water (you have to boil it before you drink it), and garbage pick-up. Hey, it’s an island; there are no garbage trucks. And if there were, there’s no landfill to take it to. All the garbage has to go out on a boat. It costs to leave your garbage; you pay by the bag. Here’s a look at Dave, the Garbage Guy and his garbage barge. It cost us $3 to leave a bag. If you think it isn’t worth it, consider carrying it around with you for a couple weeks.

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The place we want to visit today isn’t far - just over 5 miles away to Squirrel Cove. There is a store, restaurant, and craft shop there... and cars (this island has ferry service); we haven’t seen cars on land for several days now. The anchorage is another mile or two into the cove from the settlement. We took Wild Blue to the far end and put down the anchor. Again, there are lots of boats here, but plenty of room.

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While Joan made lunch, I got the dinghy in the water. After lunch, we went for a ride around the cove. There are several small islands in the cove and a small opening leading back to a stream. We tried to get the dinghy in there, but it was too shallow... people in kayaks were having to drag them.

I’ve heard a rumor of a possible crew mutiny onboard Wild Blue. It seems we are running short of a vital staple and the crew is beginning to panic. We heard that they may have what we need at the settlement... sure enough, Joan found a bottle of the type of wine she drinks; we should be OK for another week or so. Crisis averted.

Back at the boat, Joan sat down with a glass of her new purchase and looked through our cruising guides while Molly and I took a nap. When I got up a short time later, there were a dozen new boats anchored around us... and there was still plenty of room for more. Rested, we decided on one more dinghy cruise around the cove. This time, Joan drove and I got to be the passenger.

Back to the boat again, we watched the sun go behind the trees. Joan made pizza for supper, we dined in the cockpit. It was another lovely day. When we went to bed, the sky was full of stars and the cove full of anchor lights - it was quite a pretty site.

Desolation Sound has not been what we thought... instead of quiet anchorages and cool weather, it’s been warm and lots of other boats for company. If it weren’t for the mountains and tall fir trees, it would seem almost tropical. And we’re enjoying it a bunch!

Best wishes,
Jim B.
 
Monday, August 6th. It was a beautiful, quiet morning in the anchorage... smooth as glass. We found out that this is a holiday in Canada, so that may account for all the families out on boats (3 day weekend).

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We were out early; here’s a look at the point off Squirrel Cove in the early morning light. From there, we ran to Teakerne Arm to see the waterfall at the end of that inlet. There are boats anchored right next to the waterfall, still in plenty of deep water.

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We cruised up Lewis Channel to the north side of Cortes Island, where three channels come together... another gorgeous background.

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Around the west side of the island, we made our way into the VonDonop Inlet. This inlet goes back about three miles and opens up into several great anchorages. There were less than a dozen boats in there when we came in. We set Wild Blue’s anchor, had lunch, and took the dinghy to shore. There is a trail Joan wanted to hike... it actually leads back to near where we stayed last night. The guide-book says it is 3 kilometers. The guide-book didn’t say it was uphill... both ways. Or that you have to walk through a streambed.

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We pushed on. 25 miles or so into the hike, Joan asked me how far a kilometer is. “Well, considering that Canadian money is worth less than US money, and a 4-minute shower is actually somewhere around 2 and a half minutes, I think a Canadian kilometer is around 27 freakin’ miles!” All this to walk back to where we’ve already been.

Which way do we go???

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The trail ended at an asphalt road... no sign to tell us which way to get to the Squirrel Cove Store. “This way,” Joan said. “No, that way,” I replied. We decided to walk her way... uphill and southwest. I decided to make a stand and told her, “The water will be downhill from here. We know the settlement is southeast. I really think we need to go the other way.” We compromised: we don’t need ice cream that bad, let’s go back. Along the way, we discussed what bears eat and how long a person can survive without food. Kidding aside, it was a great hike.

When we got back to the dinghy, the cool water felt good on our feet as we shoved the boat back into the water. Only a few more boats had come into the cove in the last couple hours.

We had drinks in the cockpit, then Joan made supper. I went for a short dinghy ride around the cove to see where all the boats are from. When I got back, Molly was waiting for me.

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Showers felt good after our jungle hike. We decided it was time for “movie night” and put a DVD in the player. Good night.

Best wishes,
Jim B.
 
Jim,
Sounds as though you are having a good cruise in spite of your hiking episodes. We are enjoying your photos and commentary, thankyou very much.
 
Tuesday, August 7th. We decided to check out Gorge Harbour... interesting entry, nice protection in the harbor. Joan picked a marina over anchoring today, and it turned out to be a great choice: we had lunch at the restaurant at Gorge Harbour, managed to get some 15 amp power at the dock, and even have internet. All our water tanks are topped off. Life is pretty darn good.

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The day started overcast. It never broke. Just a few minutes ago it started drizzling... it will help wash the salt off the boat. 8) First time since Bellingham that we've seen any precip. It has been a good afternoon to hang out in the boat... read, surf the internet, watch boats come and go. And not hike. :mrgreen: We considered the mile and a half walk to Whaletown, and then Joan asked about internet in the store. Good timing. :lol:

The docks at Gorge Harbour Marina...

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Best wishes,
Jim B.
 
Well, the drizzle let up. Gave me a chance to get out on the dock and visit with some nice folks. Molly got to do some socializing, too...

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There was no sunset, but as the light dimmed, we saw two bald eagles in the tree tops... watched one swoop down and pull out a fish... standing amongst the Canadian folks, it made me feel downright patriotic. :wink:

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The folks in the sailboat across from us have invited us over for after dinner drinks. I know I will lust over all that room in the saloon... remember the trailering, Jim. :roll:

Best wishes,
Jim B.
 
So I gather you are still on the dock at Gorge Harbour? We recall the restaurant at Gorge Harbour being pretty darn good...This was our first gathering point for the 2005 Desolation Sound CBGT, which took us to pretty much all the same places you have been describing - very fond memories! We also stopped at Von Donop the first night on our Blaine to Ketchikan cruise last year, the water was great for swimming, MUCH warmer than we encountered in the Gulf Islands this year, which was just one notch above icy by me (I did dive in at Conover Cove)! Keep the reports and pix coming, I know you will!
 
Hi Pat,

We just got to Gorge Harbour yesterday. Hey, I paid for a whole night at the dock, paid for the internet, so yep, we're still here! :wink: Check out is 11:00... we're going to spend a Looney or two on the showers and suck up every last watt of 15 amp power we can before we head out this morning. :lol:

Gorge Harbour Marina is a neat little place. Nothing fancy, but the folks here have been most friendly. The restaurant is small, but the food was good.

We've seen people in the water at most of the places we've anchored in Desolation Sound. Personally, I think they are insane! :shock: The water has been around 70º (yes, I know that's warm by Puget Sound standards) and there have been gazillions of jellyfish. Yes, they are cute little jellyfish compared to the ones we have down south, but I won't jump in the water where I can see scads of them every direction. That is why hot-tubs were invented... 103º and bubbles, no jellyfish... that's my idea of the right water conditions; conducive to plunking by body in. That's part of why I enjoy boating so much: it keeps something solid and secure between me and the water! :mrgreen:

I brought a wetsuit. It would be considered "emergency equipment" if it gets called into use here. I use it when the water temps are in the low 80s back home; I'll consider not using it when the water temp passes the 85º mark. For short periods of time. Without critters that want to sting me. I hope this clarifies my position on this matter (I threw that in just for you, 'cause it sounded like lawyer talk. :wink: ).

Don't know when we'll have the next connection. Joan has just started making conversation about "when do you want to pull out?" and various other "heading home" statements. I try to come back with, "Oh, look! An eagle!" or "Was that a whale fin I just saw over there?" or "Wow, I love the way your hair looks when it is backlit by the boat window," or "I'll bet it's really hot in Phoenix still; sure don't want to go through there when it's miserable."

Best wishes,
Jim
 
JamesTXSD":yhpls86w said:
That is why hot-tubs were invented... 103º and bubbles, no jellyfish... that's my idea of the right water conditions; conducive to plunking by body in. That's part of why I enjoy boating so much: it keeps something solid and secure between me and the water! :mrgreen:

I can't google it, but at a boat show a year or two ago I saw an inflatable, floating hot tub. At the time I thought it was a tres stupid idea but now I am not so sure :roll:

Warren
 
Jim,

With the horrendous heat wave that is gripping the middle and Eastern US, I think you and Joan ought to consider hunkering down up there another 2-4 weeks up there in paradise.

John
 
I saw one of those, Warren... let's see, at 6 gallons at a time with our onboard waterheater... um, an extra 50 gallons of fuel for the generator... carry the 6, multiply by 8... I don't think that is gonna fit into our "simplifying" new style. :wink

One of the other questions Joan asked: "What do you miss most about home?" (Subtle, isn't she?) She knew I was going to say the jacuzzi tub. OK, and the palm trees (although I was amazed that there were palm trees at Ganges). Oh, and the miles of beautiful sand beach. Damn, now she's got me doing it! :twisted:

Best wishes,
Jim
 
I'm not being too serious about this, but it did occur to me that water in one of those floating hot tubs would warm up on its own to close to ambient temperature after a while, which would be more enjoyable than jumping in the Sound.

Warren
 
"Ambient temperature"???? :xseek Ah, Warren, you are such a card. :wink: You know that 90º water temperature still feels cool on your 98.6º body? At 70º water temp there is a great deal of... um... shrinkage. At 60º, some body parts completely go away. :shock: I take that as Nature's way of telling me to stay out of that water temp.

I can hike 'till my feet are bloody stumps. Wind and rain? Hah, I laugh at that.

Just don't make me get in cold water.

Best wishes,
Wimpy Jim
 
Wednesday, August 8th. We slept pretty good, with a steady rain most of the night. We had been up just a few minutes when we heard the sound of a seaplane... very close. It landed and taxied right towards Wild Blue. At the last moment, it turned; the wing went over the top of the rear of our boat, and the plane came up to the dock just behind us... this guy was good.

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Joan made hot chocolate and coffee, then we walked up to the showers. Check out time here is 11:00, and we are not going far today; no need to leave until we’ve used up the last watt of electricity. At 10:59, we shoved off. We followed our sailboat neighbor out through the gorge - the reason this place is called Gorge Harbour.

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Our planned destination for today is Heriot Bay. Some folks at the dock at Refuge Cove told us about the quaint inn and marina at Heriot... we thought we’d check it out ourselves. It’s about 10 miles away, across Sutil Channel. The winds were light and the clouds began to lift as we came across the channel.

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We toured around a couple other bays, then turned towards Heriot Bay. With no reservations, we thought we’d check out the look of the place before deciding to spend the night. The guide book says good things, and it looked small, but decent; I radioed the marina to see if they could get us a slip for the night (the book says reservations are strongly recommended). “Sure thing, Wild Blue; we will find a place for you.”
We had to thread in between a couple other boats and wound up at the front of the dock. There will be other boats behind us, so we aren’t getting out until they move.

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This place has been around since 1895. Nothing fancy, but it certainly fits the definition of quaint.

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There are no big yachts here - not enough space between the docks. There is a restaurant - a real restaurant, with cloth napkins, several waitresses, indoor and outdoor seating. We had lunch outside and then walked around to check out the grounds. There is a campground, nice grassy landscaping, a big chessboard on the lawn, and Joan’s favorite: Adirondak chairs overlooking the bay.

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She and Molly spent some time there... and a short excursion down by the water. Joan wanted to have Molly see that the stuff outside the boat is water. Molly has been leaning over the edge of the boat just a bit too far for comfort lately. Molly was not a big fan of the rocky area by the water.

We walked up the road a bit to see what else is around here... a small store, a liquor store, and a Legion Hall. Not huge, but the closest thing we’ve seen in quite a while that could be considered a town.

Our dock neighbors invited us on their boat for “attitude adjustment” time. Nice folks, pleasant conversation. They were impressed with the traveling we’ve done with our boat (theirs is much bigger)... and surprised at how much room we have on Wild Blue... well, comparitively speaking. We enjoyed sitting in that raised cockpit with the view on their boat. I wouldn't enjoy fueling it up... twice the size of a fuel tank and less range. They were intrigued by the idea of being able to trailer to different waters. Different strokes, eh? 8)

Best wishes,
Jim B.
 
Jim and Joan,

Thanks again for sharing your adventures with us land lubbers. Really like the personal notes and photos - especially since it is 103 degrees here today!!!

Thanks,

John
 
Jim & Joan, I remember Heriot Bay well.
Quaint, yes, but a little quirky as well! Saw this there on Canada Day 03.

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OK, Jim, now you just want to run along the west side of Quadra, through Seymour Narrows, shoot out the "Johnny" (Johnstone Strait), hang a right at Blackfish Sound, and you are there! The Broughtons are so close! If the Johnny cooperates, breakfast at Heriot Bay and lunch at Sullivan Bay!
 
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