Switch Panel Advice

K

kennharriet

Member
This winter I plan to rewire Lochsa. I want to replace the factory switch panel with a panel that has the fuses accessible from the front or a panel with 12v breakers. Any advice on breakers vs fused? Any thoughts on make and model of panel. I think I want at least an 8 place panel. Thanks in advance. Ken
 
I have tried to stick with Blue Seas or Sea Dog electrical panels. Both have units where the fuse or breaker is accessed from the front. You will want to find a panel you can put into the area where the old panel was. For the rewiring of my Caracal (which was partially sunk) I used all Blue seas rocker switches, and their fuse block of 12 circuits. That is not as handy as the on the front fuse replacement-but easy to build and to label.

I also am adding a direct digital volt meter, with momentary "read". as well as several USC A and C ports for charging IOS devices, as well as the cigarette lighter type of plug. With the latter, it often helps to have a especially made one for marine circuits, and appropriate fuse.
 
Hi Ken,

I deeply respect Steve’s expertise and would certainly check out that company.

I’ve had 40 years of excellent quality, customer service and US tech support from Blue Seas. Cat O’ Mine came with all BS Weatherdeck breaker switches. The issue is they tend to come in very limited amp ranges, ie 15A or 10A, when Garmin advises a 7.5A fuse or breaker for my HDX24 radar, and 3.5A for a few other N2K sensors. Their ATC fuses are under a trim panel beside the switch. I would avoid hooking up the Night LED switch lighting when you’re not on the boat, though the load is tiny, over time it’s not needed and does exist.

One of our best Customer Service experiences involved a PS40 $700 battery charger that one day I could not get to light up despite a good 120v input. I called Tech Support and got a WA based, US tech on the second ring. I expected to have to send the unit to them, wait for their engineers to determine that it wasn’t hit by lightning or some other issue etc etc which would have delayed a planned Adventure.

Instead, he said, “You’ve done everything right. I have your warranty registration. I will FEDEX you a brand new unit today and a FEDEX free return label for the failed unit. Just put the failed unit in the new box and return it to us with the free shipping label.”

Now THAT is CUSTOMER SERVICE and we will never forget it!

John
 
Breakers are more convenient the fuses. I have the factory panel. If I were to replace it, I'd get one with illuminated legends. MY factory panel seems to be built with the option of illuminated legends, but there is no light source.

Where I have added switches, I used Carling Contura type switches with a separate fuse box (e.g. Blue Sea 12). They come in a variety of switching options and illuminated and non-illuminated models. There are a variety of mounting options for the Carling switches.
 
Thanks all. Much appreciate your ideas and experienced wisdom. I’m thinking I will replace the factory switch panel with a front accessible fused panel. I want all of the nav electronics on one switch and adequate “master” fuse for the total nav equipment load, (VHF, plotter, auto pilot, N2K all fused independently). I already have the primary house bank conductor on a 60amp breaker at house battery bank. The aft bilge is wired direct to house bank on its own fuse and switch. The windless is wired direct to house bank on its own breaker. Other functions will be fused and switched on panel such as cabin lights, nav lights, anchor light, horn, wipers. Heaters, both Dickinson Fireplace fan and Wallas 1300 will be on their own fuses, fed by bus bar.

Anyone see any holes in this scheme? I would be embarrassed to show the present rats nest behind the helm. Shoulder replacement yesterday so will be awhile before I can be a contortionist behind helm. Thanks again and please keep there ideas coming. Ken
 
The windlass should be wired to the engine start battery for several reasons. One is that you should always have the engine running when using the windlass--drive the boat to where the bow is directly over the anchor, and take up the slack... Use the boat to break out the anchor, then pull the anchor up. Two; Wiring it to the house, means it might be depleted during the prior night or nights.
 
Back
Top