Suzuki Flushing Port

M

marvin4239

New member
I've been getting my boat ready for a little trip south which involved a new water pump, oil change, plugs etc. I read on another site about the internal anodes on Suzuki's so I ordered a few. At 350 hours my external anodes look good. Just to check it out I took the covers off the internal anodes and couldn't believe what I saw. The entire passage was full of salt and the anode was barely visiable. I cleaned it out and replaced the anode even though they were only about 20% erroded. I always flush my motor with salt away after use with the flushing port for about 15 minutes. This got me to thinking that perhaps the flushing port doesn't circulate water above it only to the lower end of the motor. I didn't check the thermostat because I didn't have a new one or a gasket. Does anyone know if this is correct about the flushing port only flushing the foot of the motor?
 
Marvin,
Maybe a little more information? :shock:

(1) What year Suzuki?
(2) What size Suzuki?
(3) Which flushing port(s) are you referring to?

I have two Suzuki's (2008 4-Stroke EFI 150hp & 2008 4-Stroke EFI 9.9hp). Flushing ports vary by year, style & size. I generally flush my engines via all flushing ports - back, side & lower-end-unit with flushing ear-muffs. In fact, ear-muffs over the lower-end-unit with the engine running is the preferred way to properly flush the entire engine cooling chambers including the lower-end-unit impeller housing and shaft. If you only flush via the back and side flushing ports, you aren't flushing the impeller housing and shaft. This is called out in the Owners' Manual as the preferred manner of flushing the engines and in my experience is the best manner for all outboards.

HTH,
Norm
 
Norm I'm not able to always use muffs as I keep my boat in a lift. My Suzuki is a 90 HP 2007 and I'm refering to the flushing port on the side of the engine. I also have a 03 Mercury 50 HP that I flush thru the port while running. I had a 50 HP Honda for a while and was told NOT to run the engine with the aftermearket fushing port so I assumed the Suzuki should not be run with the flushing port but I'm beginning to rethink that. My boat is used 90% of the time in salt water. I saw no salt build up in the lower unit when I changed the water pump.
 
Regarding "aftermarket" flushing port statement, I'm not sure what that refers to - I never heard of that before. If you're referring to the standard-type flushing ports which come with the newer engines - yes, you don't run the engine when using those ports. You'll burn out your impeller since the water doesn't traverse through the impeller/shaft assembly/housing. That is why the ear-muffs with engine running are the preferred method.

If you can run a water hose up to the flushing port and through the flushing ports, I suspect the water hose will attach to ear-muffs and you can flush the lower-end-unit properly. But if that's not the case, then that's not the case and you're only left with the flushing ports (which, again, don't do as thorough of a job as ear-muffs will do).

Generally speaking, whenever I turn off my outboards, I run the engine for 15 seconds out of the saltwater - absolutely no longer - just to flush the saltwater from the chambers while it sits for however long a period until I can properly flush with ear-muffs.

You say you're using salt away, but obviously it's only flushing via the flushing ports and not the entire impeller/shaft assembly. What position is the outboard when you perform flush via the flushing ports? I think you're supposed to flush w/ the engine not in a lift/tilt position. Probably has varying effects with different engines, but it's possible water remaining (the flush ports don't get to all chambers in the shaft assembly) is evaporating away, and salt accretion/deposition is resulting from residual water evaporating and leaving salt behind. Probably other factors (how long between flushes, how long between next running of engine, etc).

All-in-all, I'm not convinced you even have a huge problem or even a minor problem. The anodes are a separate issue altogether right? They operate as electrical sinks/dumps; and, they're only 20% erroded - definitely in good shape. Salt will also generally build up near an anode via simple electrochemical potential; so, if you see more salt near the anodes, I woudn't be too concerned. I'd be more concerned if walls, metals, bearings, housings, etc were etching, pitting and in general "falling apart".

Doesn't really sound all that bad honestly. I had an old EvinRude I inherited on a vessel I purchased. After pulling the head, reviewing the cooling chamber after years of abuse (I had gone through four lower-end units - eaten by oysters bars - yummy), the chambers were pitted, etched, and washing away. That engine was 25 yrs old and I ear-muff flushed it each time it came out of the water. I used that boat about 4-5 times weekly in saltwater - every single week for three years, replaced annodes when they were 80-90% gone.

Well, anyway Marvin, not sure your issue is huge, and whenever possible it's always best to put on the ear-muffs.
 
Sounds like the anodes are just doing their job, my 2006 Suzuki looked about the same, but when cleaned up, only the zincs were sacrificed. I keep my boat in the saltwater, and I am able to put earmuffs on it from the swim platform, turn on the water slowly, then lower and run the motor in the water with earmuffs. (this is the preffered method listed in the Suzuki Service Manual). Sometimes I will taste the water coming from the power head to be sure it is fresh and the muffs are positioned properly. Then I raise it and use salt away thru the flushing port.
Roger
 
Thanks Roger and Norm as was mentioned when the salt was cleaned up everything looked good so yes they are apparently doing a good job. I'd advise others not to forget to check them periodicly.
 
Hello,
The one thing about using muffs for flushing saltwater out of engines or for running thengine period out of the water make sure you are using ones that feed water in from both sides as the cheaper ones only provide water to one side and are not reccommended for bigger engines.
D.D.
 
Marvin, I've got Suzi 115s and it does say NOT to use the side hose flushing port while the engine is running out of the water.... I've got to get my service manual out and see how to look at the internal anodes and waterway, have never done that. My boat is on a lift too and hard to get muffs on it.

Charlie
 
Charlie the internal anodes are right beside the oil dip stick one above the other. They are behind a little cover that looks similiar to a thermostat cover. Takes a 10mm socket to get them off and a 8mm socket to take the anode out. Page 2-18 of the service manual shows them.
 
jj, thanks for the info. How do you like yours? It looks like the hose only goes to one side, has that been a problem? Do you run your engines with this on them and do they get warm, how long do you flush?

I need something like this to get to my engines on the boat lift! Seems kinda pricey, maybe something could be built??


Charlie
 
JJ thats and interesting device. I appears you have to hold it in place? Looks like it might be a two person operation one to hold it and one to start the motor?
 
In the flush max video, it looked as if the engines were not running. I would think that it is best to run the engines, to get full circulation. Is there any reason you would not run the engines when flushing with this device--thanks for bringing it to our attention.

We run through fresh water for about 10 minutes, and brackish for some time before that, so we don't flush our engines. But for any work on the lower unit, we have a "beater" aluminum skiff, which we can get under the lift and work on the boat.
 
Captains Cat

notice maxx has an inlet at top and hose down through pipe handle.
both sides recv. water flow. i attach salt away to hose.
jj
 
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