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Surveyor needed near North Palm Beach
- Thread starter JMacLeod
- Start date
Jack in Alaska
New member
I purchased my 2005 26' C-Dory ProAngler in West Palm Beach.
THe boat was inspected by a local surveyor and included 35 pictures and an oil sample and test. Cost of survey was $500.
I then had it towed to Wenatchee, Wash for $3200 where we picked it up and towed it to Anchorage, Alaska. It all turned out well and we still have the boat. Going fishing in the morning.
Good luck.
Jack in Alaska
THe boat was inspected by a local surveyor and included 35 pictures and an oil sample and test. Cost of survey was $500.
I then had it towed to Wenatchee, Wash for $3200 where we picked it up and towed it to Anchorage, Alaska. It all turned out well and we still have the boat. Going fishing in the morning.
Good luck.
Jack in Alaska
I used Sadu Frehm
sadufrehm@gmail.com
561-676-4069
for my survey on a Glacier Bay 2670 - 2 or 3 times (diff boats). I was there when the survey was done and he will answer all your questions. I want to say I paid $500-600 per boat.
At the end you'll get a professional document.
He's SAMS accredited. Great guy. I want to say he's in Ft. Lauderdale.
That said, he's not a mechanic (most are not). He'll give you an educated guess on engines, but you're pretty much on your own or will need your own mechanic.
Well worth the $.
sadufrehm@gmail.com
561-676-4069
for my survey on a Glacier Bay 2670 - 2 or 3 times (diff boats). I was there when the survey was done and he will answer all your questions. I want to say I paid $500-600 per boat.
At the end you'll get a professional document.
He's SAMS accredited. Great guy. I want to say he's in Ft. Lauderdale.
That said, he's not a mechanic (most are not). He'll give you an educated guess on engines, but you're pretty much on your own or will need your own mechanic.
Well worth the $.
gulfcoast john
New member
JM,
I think you stole it at your price!
Nothing can go wrong with the hull itself (a huge hunk of plastic with foam coring in areas) that can't be fixed cheaply.
2 new Suzuki 150 engines might be $28,000 of the $155,000 for the TC255 at 3 Rivers Marine. So what is that hull worth? Way over 50%.
My input:
My suggested priorities for a 2006 TomCat255:
AC so you can work in it in FL in the summer per Bob. RV type requires an industry std 14x14 inch roof cutout. Radar, AC, dinghy, racks must stay under federal 13.5’ hgt limit on trailer. Rec’d Coleman 13.5 PS (Power Saver) rooftop AC, stats suggest it could run on a Honda 2000 or Yamaha 2000 ($450 at Costco vs $900 for Honda) but just barely. Boat limit is 30 amps and AC hogs most of that. Cools the boat quickly if your first priority at arriving at any marina is hooking up shorepower and turning on AC before cleanup.
Option 2 get a cheapo Lowes 6000btu window unit that will fit in the center window with a couple of pool noodles for $130 that you can later re-purpose for your home bedroom after the storm with your Yami 2000 $450 generator from Costco.
We advise against option 3, sea-water cooled marine AC, it will prefer to suck sand, sea grass, jelly-fish, and any Wal-Mart plastic bag within 10 nautical miles rather than sucking up sea water under your boat. Don’t
ask how we know this.
Supplement with high quality fans with 5 yr motors like Caframo 12 v, Endless Breeze 12v for cockpit, Vornado 110v into bunk.
GPS antennas (sep one req for AIS transmitting AIS), metal dinghy transoms can’t be in radar beam.
Https://www.amazon.com/fan-tastic-vent- ... ess+breeze
Replace boatside shorepower inlet with Smartplug system and cord.
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/smartpl ... -b30assynt
Lil’ giant flip n lite 6 ft stepladder #15270 for land boarding, tie to dive ladder hole so it can’t go over backward. Fits in pickup bed, super light and strong, 300# rated, good platform.
https://www.amazon.com/flip-n-lite-300- ... tep+ladder
Replace Jabsco 1850-90 sewage macerator pump if it has acorn nuts (bronze body rods vs SS since 2015).
Service kit 18598-1000. Only used when pumping overboard over 3 miles offshore, not when being pumped out at a marina through deck plate, selector lever near pump. I never do this myself, just give the kid $10-$20 to do it. Get the adaptor so you’ll never be out of luck.
Rule Gold 2000g/h bilge pumps w 5 year warranty, more SS parts worth the $ and one of the high risk failure points. No fuse required by code but I use a 20A Easy ID ATC fuse and a 20A HD float switch.
https://www.amazon.com/rule-2000-gold-b ... bilge+pump
Trailer tires and boat batteries per surveyor…both tend to have 36-48 mos lives from date of mfg (DOT tire code is week/yr), NOT date of sale. Goodyear Endurance ST is only trlr tire made in USA as of 2017, good rep amongst heavy expensive toy haulers.
Tongue wt may be 1160#, I added a Fulton 8,000# horse trlr winch stand much easier to jack, lower gearing, beefier build $180.
Replace all interior and nav lights with marinebeam LED’s.
Per survey, galvanic isolator Guest poor rep, new ALT models are fault proof. Many battery chargers at 12 years on last legs esp Guest. Blue seas PS12 series (mine) best and only ones with 5 yr warranty, but pricey.
A 3-4 inch mattress topper and washable cover make berth much more comfy.
Any fridge under nav seat must be self-ventilating, or cut hole for a 12v muffin fan.
Have surveyor comment on condition of fuel hoses (replace every 10 yrs per mfg esp if E10 fuel was used).
You’ll want a bimini in FL. Clear vinyl is hard to store on the boat, we’re considering Phifertex sides which can be rolled up. Currently using parachute cord and $37 Fox fly tarps which are fine for Key West and Chesapeake breezes/sun but blow out at over 20k winds.
Https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=utf8&keywo ... bvq1xbr6_e
Deckadence marine spun PVC carpet is expensive but well worth it, make template with butcher paper and cut with utility knife (new blade)
https://www.marineflooring.net/
We find in FL a transom freshwater shower (T’ed from under the head HH shower input) more useful than raw water (saltwater) washdown.
Keys to launching from trailer:
Install drain plugs, remove transom straps, front winch strap and safety chain. Put in 2 10,000# links so the strap doesn’t chafe on the float-on front stop.
The rear of the boat won’t begin to float until it’s in tit-deep (53 inches) water, which is an outlier steep and deep ramp. (Local Sea-Tow captains will know all, just call early am before they get busy).
Truck driver will note anchor appears to lower as rear of boat floats. On most ramps, the top of the front trailer fenders will be several inches underwater (unless really steep ramp). After engines started and peeing, truck driver can back down til rear tires of truck have water half way up sidewalls then stomp the brakes while boat driver is in reverse up to 3000rpm max. Use big rubber chocks on truck to keep boat from pulling it too far into the water (like 300 horses are pulling it). Direclink EOH trailer brake controller can be set to apply trailer brakes when stopped, up to 30% of max, which is plenty, no chocks needed. A no-drama, 800 rpm back off is preferred. Ear-tecs or duplex headsets for cell phones (thanks c-otter) helpful.
Keys to loading onto trailer:
Spray Marykate roller Majic on carpet bunks and center cage capture areas.
This is best a two-step procedure for most ramps…load ¾ way so the cage ‘catches and straightens’ automatically, regardless of wind or current, then truck backs down for final push onto the stops.
Ear-tecs or duplex headsets for cell phones (thanks c-otter) helpful.
Back trailer in until front of fenders awash or a couple of inches under, this will expose so much of the ‘cage’ between hulls that it self-straightens boat on bunks as you drive on. Load to about 80%, but for the last 25%, have truck driver back down another 4-6 inches deep and it will be much easier to power up to the stops with low power. A PVC 1/4 “ pipe that just touches bow rail is helpful, I can’t see Eileen and just barely see her hands when full over her head from the helm. Hook up strap with 10k# links, safety chain.
On a typical ramp, you just can’t winch a TC255 on to the stops that last couple inches without the boat creeping back. Don’t even try, just pull out and level off in the parking lot. At less than walking speed, say 2mph, stomp the brakes and the boat will slide up against the stops. Then secure transom straps.
We favor 5 star resort marinas, many don’t even have 30amp shorepower, only 50amp…most Brats seem to me to anchor out. This $92 adapter lets you use 50A 125/250v, DO NOT get 50A/125 v version…thanks Bob for the research. Conntek 50A 250/125v adapter mod 17513 (not 17511).
https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-Marine-P ... ntek+17513
Older southern boats with gross UV gelcoat oxidation damage can benefit from PolyGlow after careful wet sanding (I’m still the only advocate here at 5 years).
We currently favor Woody-Wax for non-skid deck prep (Star-Brite PTF a close second, but it can streak the POLY-GLO).
We currently favor West Marine Oceans head treatment (Exterminator a close second), though no sewage treatment in a Florida 99 degree summer will smell satisfactory.
We favor Kanberra Tea Tree for mildew/odor control over the Forespar competition.
We'll go over Systems tomorrow...fresh, grey, blackwater (8 pumps); 110v, 12v (most complex), thru-hulls and trailering.
Happy new boat!
John
I think you stole it at your price!
Nothing can go wrong with the hull itself (a huge hunk of plastic with foam coring in areas) that can't be fixed cheaply.
2 new Suzuki 150 engines might be $28,000 of the $155,000 for the TC255 at 3 Rivers Marine. So what is that hull worth? Way over 50%.
My input:
My suggested priorities for a 2006 TomCat255:
AC so you can work in it in FL in the summer per Bob. RV type requires an industry std 14x14 inch roof cutout. Radar, AC, dinghy, racks must stay under federal 13.5’ hgt limit on trailer. Rec’d Coleman 13.5 PS (Power Saver) rooftop AC, stats suggest it could run on a Honda 2000 or Yamaha 2000 ($450 at Costco vs $900 for Honda) but just barely. Boat limit is 30 amps and AC hogs most of that. Cools the boat quickly if your first priority at arriving at any marina is hooking up shorepower and turning on AC before cleanup.
Option 2 get a cheapo Lowes 6000btu window unit that will fit in the center window with a couple of pool noodles for $130 that you can later re-purpose for your home bedroom after the storm with your Yami 2000 $450 generator from Costco.
We advise against option 3, sea-water cooled marine AC, it will prefer to suck sand, sea grass, jelly-fish, and any Wal-Mart plastic bag within 10 nautical miles rather than sucking up sea water under your boat. Don’t
ask how we know this.
Supplement with high quality fans with 5 yr motors like Caframo 12 v, Endless Breeze 12v for cockpit, Vornado 110v into bunk.
GPS antennas (sep one req for AIS transmitting AIS), metal dinghy transoms can’t be in radar beam.
Https://www.amazon.com/fan-tastic-vent- ... ess+breeze
Replace boatside shorepower inlet with Smartplug system and cord.
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/smartpl ... -b30assynt
Lil’ giant flip n lite 6 ft stepladder #15270 for land boarding, tie to dive ladder hole so it can’t go over backward. Fits in pickup bed, super light and strong, 300# rated, good platform.
https://www.amazon.com/flip-n-lite-300- ... tep+ladder
Replace Jabsco 1850-90 sewage macerator pump if it has acorn nuts (bronze body rods vs SS since 2015).
Service kit 18598-1000. Only used when pumping overboard over 3 miles offshore, not when being pumped out at a marina through deck plate, selector lever near pump. I never do this myself, just give the kid $10-$20 to do it. Get the adaptor so you’ll never be out of luck.
Rule Gold 2000g/h bilge pumps w 5 year warranty, more SS parts worth the $ and one of the high risk failure points. No fuse required by code but I use a 20A Easy ID ATC fuse and a 20A HD float switch.
https://www.amazon.com/rule-2000-gold-b ... bilge+pump
Trailer tires and boat batteries per surveyor…both tend to have 36-48 mos lives from date of mfg (DOT tire code is week/yr), NOT date of sale. Goodyear Endurance ST is only trlr tire made in USA as of 2017, good rep amongst heavy expensive toy haulers.
Tongue wt may be 1160#, I added a Fulton 8,000# horse trlr winch stand much easier to jack, lower gearing, beefier build $180.
Replace all interior and nav lights with marinebeam LED’s.
Per survey, galvanic isolator Guest poor rep, new ALT models are fault proof. Many battery chargers at 12 years on last legs esp Guest. Blue seas PS12 series (mine) best and only ones with 5 yr warranty, but pricey.
A 3-4 inch mattress topper and washable cover make berth much more comfy.
Any fridge under nav seat must be self-ventilating, or cut hole for a 12v muffin fan.
Have surveyor comment on condition of fuel hoses (replace every 10 yrs per mfg esp if E10 fuel was used).
You’ll want a bimini in FL. Clear vinyl is hard to store on the boat, we’re considering Phifertex sides which can be rolled up. Currently using parachute cord and $37 Fox fly tarps which are fine for Key West and Chesapeake breezes/sun but blow out at over 20k winds.
Https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=utf8&keywo ... bvq1xbr6_e
Deckadence marine spun PVC carpet is expensive but well worth it, make template with butcher paper and cut with utility knife (new blade)
https://www.marineflooring.net/
We find in FL a transom freshwater shower (T’ed from under the head HH shower input) more useful than raw water (saltwater) washdown.
Keys to launching from trailer:
Install drain plugs, remove transom straps, front winch strap and safety chain. Put in 2 10,000# links so the strap doesn’t chafe on the float-on front stop.
The rear of the boat won’t begin to float until it’s in tit-deep (53 inches) water, which is an outlier steep and deep ramp. (Local Sea-Tow captains will know all, just call early am before they get busy).
Truck driver will note anchor appears to lower as rear of boat floats. On most ramps, the top of the front trailer fenders will be several inches underwater (unless really steep ramp). After engines started and peeing, truck driver can back down til rear tires of truck have water half way up sidewalls then stomp the brakes while boat driver is in reverse up to 3000rpm max. Use big rubber chocks on truck to keep boat from pulling it too far into the water (like 300 horses are pulling it). Direclink EOH trailer brake controller can be set to apply trailer brakes when stopped, up to 30% of max, which is plenty, no chocks needed. A no-drama, 800 rpm back off is preferred. Ear-tecs or duplex headsets for cell phones (thanks c-otter) helpful.
Keys to loading onto trailer:
Spray Marykate roller Majic on carpet bunks and center cage capture areas.
This is best a two-step procedure for most ramps…load ¾ way so the cage ‘catches and straightens’ automatically, regardless of wind or current, then truck backs down for final push onto the stops.
Ear-tecs or duplex headsets for cell phones (thanks c-otter) helpful.
Back trailer in until front of fenders awash or a couple of inches under, this will expose so much of the ‘cage’ between hulls that it self-straightens boat on bunks as you drive on. Load to about 80%, but for the last 25%, have truck driver back down another 4-6 inches deep and it will be much easier to power up to the stops with low power. A PVC 1/4 “ pipe that just touches bow rail is helpful, I can’t see Eileen and just barely see her hands when full over her head from the helm. Hook up strap with 10k# links, safety chain.
On a typical ramp, you just can’t winch a TC255 on to the stops that last couple inches without the boat creeping back. Don’t even try, just pull out and level off in the parking lot. At less than walking speed, say 2mph, stomp the brakes and the boat will slide up against the stops. Then secure transom straps.
We favor 5 star resort marinas, many don’t even have 30amp shorepower, only 50amp…most Brats seem to me to anchor out. This $92 adapter lets you use 50A 125/250v, DO NOT get 50A/125 v version…thanks Bob for the research. Conntek 50A 250/125v adapter mod 17513 (not 17511).
https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-Marine-P ... ntek+17513
Older southern boats with gross UV gelcoat oxidation damage can benefit from PolyGlow after careful wet sanding (I’m still the only advocate here at 5 years).
We currently favor Woody-Wax for non-skid deck prep (Star-Brite PTF a close second, but it can streak the POLY-GLO).
We currently favor West Marine Oceans head treatment (Exterminator a close second), though no sewage treatment in a Florida 99 degree summer will smell satisfactory.
We favor Kanberra Tea Tree for mildew/odor control over the Forespar competition.
We'll go over Systems tomorrow...fresh, grey, blackwater (8 pumps); 110v, 12v (most complex), thru-hulls and trailering.
Happy new boat!
John
It was good talking with you, and sorry if I got off the phone a little abuptly.
I should have waited to call you instead of giving the missus a heart attack while trying to navigate a strange town.
Wow, thanks, I'll have to chew on that and digest it tonight before we meet up tomorrow.
I really appreciate you and Bob offerring your time and so much more.
If the rest of the C-Dory family is half as nice as y'all then we are going to love going to gatherings.
I should have waited to call you instead of giving the missus a heart attack while trying to navigate a strange town.
Wow, thanks, I'll have to chew on that and digest it tonight before we meet up tomorrow.
I really appreciate you and Bob offerring your time and so much more.
If the rest of the C-Dory family is half as nice as y'all then we are going to love going to gatherings.