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SuperFlush?
- Thread starter Doryman
- Start date
Captains Cat
New member
Looks like a good system but, man that's a lot of $$ for a few fittings and some instructions!
Charlie
Charlie
Sarge":9ifacz61 said:Warren,
I thought this was a thread about some super duper toilet :disgust
When I clicked the link and see that it is a salt water flush I was relieved (no pun intended...ok, maybe a little).
Ditto. I had visions of some space-age, NASA-like toilet in my head that would somehow save the world from human waste in the marine environment. :lol:
$250 to flush an engine? :shock: For that, they should come to my house and clean the boat each time I use it....
Warren
I saw the vender and his product at the SBS and to me it just looked like more to go wrong for alot of money. There was some fittings and hoses and that plastic manifold that you had to tap into your coolent lines and stuff under the cowling. Muffs and a garden hose have worked good for alot of years. Think I'll stick to what works.
Chuck
Bootleg Hooch
I saw the vender and his product at the SBS and to me it just looked like more to go wrong for alot of money. There was some fittings and hoses and that plastic manifold that you had to tap into your coolent lines and stuff under the cowling. Muffs and a garden hose have worked good for alot of years. Think I'll stick to what works.
Chuck
Bootleg Hooch
I went to the website and after looking at the photos and reading the claims I think its mostly hype.
The photos of the two outboards are not of the same model motors, and the worse looking one on the right looks to be an older not-well-taken-care-of motor.
By the way, installing one on a new motor could void your warranty, unless the flusher is specifically factory approved.
I would not spend $250 on this.
Larry H
Retired Evinrude/Johnson mechanic.
The photos of the two outboards are not of the same model motors, and the worse looking one on the right looks to be an older not-well-taken-care-of motor.
By the way, installing one on a new motor could void your warranty, unless the flusher is specifically factory approved.
I would not spend $250 on this.
Larry H
Retired Evinrude/Johnson mechanic.
20dauntless
New member
How many of you have had corrosion problems on a modern outboard that this device would have prevented?
I agree. I did have an older 2 stroke 90 hp Yahama which I bought used, and had salt and corrosion problems. But if you flush the motors out regularly, there should not be a problem. Salt Away will help in high salt areas, and I do take a sprayer with it on board if I cannot flush. Pump the salt away into the "hose" port once a week, and it should help prevent salt build up when cruising.
It appears to be just a different distribution of the flush water--and if it was that much better, why wasn't it included from the factory? Modern outboards when run in commercial use, can see over 4,000 hours, up to 8,000 documented. That is a lot of hours!
It appears to be just a different distribution of the flush water--and if it was that much better, why wasn't it included from the factory? Modern outboards when run in commercial use, can see over 4,000 hours, up to 8,000 documented. That is a lot of hours!
I have seen outboards where the cooling passages were almost totally closed due to salt/corrosion. These were usually 1970's motors serviced in the late 1980's. More modern motors have the interior of the water passages coated to reduce corrosion.
I recommend that outboards be flushed after use IF POSSIBLE.
I have used my 1991 70 hp in the summers up to three months at a time on an Alaska trip with no flushing.
Now the motors have the flush port where a hose can be used with the motor still in the water. This is a big improvement, however the water pump and pipe up to the powerhead still contains salt water. The only way to flush the ENTIRE cooling system is with flush muffs or a tank of freshwater. The motor must be run long enough for the thermostat to open.
If the motor is used or stored in freezing conditions, the salt water will protect against freezing down to about 26 degrees F, so flushing with fresh water could be a hazard. Evinrude recommended leaving the motor down in the vertical position if the boat is in salt water during freezing conditions. The relatively warmer sea water keeps the lower part of the motor above 32 degrees. The motor should be in the vertical position for storage so water can drain out of the motor.
It is important to keep the drain holes open. When you pull your boat out of the water with the motor vertical, you will see the water drain from various drain holes. If any drains are plugged, open them with a piece of wire (a paperclip works). Even if the drains all appear open, it is possible for water to remain in water passages and can freeze and damage the motor.
In some area of the country, shops winterize motors by running them in a tank of 50/50% antifreeze/water, then letting them drain. Any water trapped then is antifreeze and protects the motor even if some drains are plugged. In the spring, the motor MUST be run on flush muffs in an area where any antifreeze will not contaminate waterways. IE: Don't run it in the lake!
Summary: Flush when you can, keep the drains open, and don't worry too much if you can't flush every time.
Larry H
Retired Evinrude/Johnson outboard mechanic
I recommend that outboards be flushed after use IF POSSIBLE.
I have used my 1991 70 hp in the summers up to three months at a time on an Alaska trip with no flushing.
Now the motors have the flush port where a hose can be used with the motor still in the water. This is a big improvement, however the water pump and pipe up to the powerhead still contains salt water. The only way to flush the ENTIRE cooling system is with flush muffs or a tank of freshwater. The motor must be run long enough for the thermostat to open.
If the motor is used or stored in freezing conditions, the salt water will protect against freezing down to about 26 degrees F, so flushing with fresh water could be a hazard. Evinrude recommended leaving the motor down in the vertical position if the boat is in salt water during freezing conditions. The relatively warmer sea water keeps the lower part of the motor above 32 degrees. The motor should be in the vertical position for storage so water can drain out of the motor.
It is important to keep the drain holes open. When you pull your boat out of the water with the motor vertical, you will see the water drain from various drain holes. If any drains are plugged, open them with a piece of wire (a paperclip works). Even if the drains all appear open, it is possible for water to remain in water passages and can freeze and damage the motor.
In some area of the country, shops winterize motors by running them in a tank of 50/50% antifreeze/water, then letting them drain. Any water trapped then is antifreeze and protects the motor even if some drains are plugged. In the spring, the motor MUST be run on flush muffs in an area where any antifreeze will not contaminate waterways. IE: Don't run it in the lake!
Summary: Flush when you can, keep the drains open, and don't worry too much if you can't flush every time.
Larry H
Retired Evinrude/Johnson outboard mechanic