Suggestion Box for C-Dory Factory
- Thread starter Will-C
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Wandering Sagebrush
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rogerbum":2oc9nzxx said:
Roger, you should have asked them which of the Baylosers was theirs... :twisted: :roll:
chimoii
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starcrafttom":15bl1qb8 said:
I love discussions of business models since I make such decisions in business life.
I have often commented to anyone who will listen that one is not so much buying a new boat as buying a relationship with a dealer. He (or she) is the local 'go to' person and the one I rely on for answers and fixes. Usually I won't find out how good the relationship is until I have a problem. For sure, I could hope to get a better price if I was 'factory direct' but then long distance relationships doesn't have a good reputation for success.
We bought a 2008 Fluid boat. For sure it was a concern when they left the stage but Port Boat House was there for me and fixed all the teething troubles that inevitably happen with a new boat. They were really there for me and I would recommend buying a new C-Dory (rather than another make) and buying it from them based on that experience. If I had bought direct from the factory I would have been SOL. I'm sure that Matt's customers feel the same way.
As an interesting comparison, and no offense intended but Tom advertises that he is a realtor as part of his signature, we could think about the value of using a realtor to sell a house. I'm sure that the realtor would make a good sales pitch as to the value they bring to the table. One of the major items would be access to the MLS system. In Canada at the moment there is a movement to force the Real Estate Association to break their monopoly and give access to individuals, something they don't want to do because it would make it easier for us to sell a house direct. Hopefully the outcome will be to force down the commission levels and make realtors justify their commissions based on value for services rendered. The good ones will achieve that and do well as some of the low quality competitors will go bust.
A house is the biggest purchase for most of us and a boat is often the second. Buying direct or using a dealer/broker is a choice (when available) that has merits on both sides. For the record, I have used a buyer broker to buy a house and would do it again. It had value, just as the dealer added value to the boat. I have also walked away from a house purchase because of the antics of a selling broker.
I wish good dealers well. May they not only survive but prosper. May their margins increase (and yes, that means buyers pay more) to reflect the business risks they take.
SEA3PO
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I am cleaning up the boat for the Lake Powell trip and found a spot where a rat or mouse could get into the boat.....easily.... it's the sump for the bilge pump under the door.... when I took the lid off the step to clean out that area....I noticed that the fiberglass does not go all the way up to the board....leaving an inch gap.....and where the bilge pump hose goes into the cabinets is also open..... I will fix this.... to easy for a rodent to get into the cabin and make a mess.....
The plan is to make a stainless steel screen that covers that area... one that I can screw down, but still be able to remove to clean the bilge pump if needed...
Might be a good change in future boats to make them mouse proof.
Joel
SEA3PO
The plan is to make a stainless steel screen that covers that area... one that I can screw down, but still be able to remove to clean the bilge pump if needed...
Might be a good change in future boats to make them mouse proof.
Joel
SEA3PO
Sneaks
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Back to factory suggestions:
C-22
I looked over the changes in the factory specific model albums and I do think the forward storage areas are a great addition as well as the (YAY) larger lazarette covers aft for battery/storage areas. Waterproof lazarettes from the factory, finally!
Several C-Dorys have modified the port lazarette into a 1/2 scoop live bait tank. I'm not suggesting C-Dory do the tank, just keep the area easily modified for that use.
I'm not a fan of floor liners. Triton's version is definitely an improvement though.
One suggestion re: the liner/hull. Designate and prepare one spot as a "thru hull/shoot thru hull" transducer mounting area. Probably better to designate it just as a thru hull area since feces occurs and air bubbles could screw it up and make the factory libel if it doesn't work in that application.
Add the Mocha color to the C-22 arsenal as a factory standard color instead of being a special order custom color that was offered.
OK, here's my personal fave. There are pro and con arguments about a starboard transom mounting plate. As there should be. But nobody has mentioned the area where chart plotters/compasses et all are mounted just forward of the helm. Some of us techie types change electronics about as often as trailer bearings get packed. Holes holes holes....
I suggest the factory put (or make available) an appropriately sized 3/8" thick replaceable starboard panel on 1/2" legs custom shaped to go in just forward of the helm. Screw the legs down and screw the panel to the legs so that it can be removed, drilled, messed with or replaced without causing the owner grief. Owner can remove the plate and drill an appropriately sized cable hole under the plate for access or the factory can do it in a generic spot.
Don
C-22
I looked over the changes in the factory specific model albums and I do think the forward storage areas are a great addition as well as the (YAY) larger lazarette covers aft for battery/storage areas. Waterproof lazarettes from the factory, finally!
Several C-Dorys have modified the port lazarette into a 1/2 scoop live bait tank. I'm not suggesting C-Dory do the tank, just keep the area easily modified for that use.
I'm not a fan of floor liners. Triton's version is definitely an improvement though.
One suggestion re: the liner/hull. Designate and prepare one spot as a "thru hull/shoot thru hull" transducer mounting area. Probably better to designate it just as a thru hull area since feces occurs and air bubbles could screw it up and make the factory libel if it doesn't work in that application.
Add the Mocha color to the C-22 arsenal as a factory standard color instead of being a special order custom color that was offered.
OK, here's my personal fave. There are pro and con arguments about a starboard transom mounting plate. As there should be. But nobody has mentioned the area where chart plotters/compasses et all are mounted just forward of the helm. Some of us techie types change electronics about as often as trailer bearings get packed. Holes holes holes....
I suggest the factory put (or make available) an appropriately sized 3/8" thick replaceable starboard panel on 1/2" legs custom shaped to go in just forward of the helm. Screw the legs down and screw the panel to the legs so that it can be removed, drilled, messed with or replaced without causing the owner grief. Owner can remove the plate and drill an appropriately sized cable hole under the plate for access or the factory can do it in a generic spot.
Don
rogerbum
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A few suggestions from me:
1) I've long argued for the production of a fairly standard wiring harness. I really believe that a harness could be made that was flexible enough to allow almost all common electrical installations to occur if there were enough spare wires in the harness for future expansion. If done properly and factory installed, I'm convinced that this would be far cheaper overall than having a custom wiring job done at each dealer. It would also allow the production of a standard wiring guide in the owners manual which would in the long run save owners time when a problem occurs or they need to add a new piece of equipment.
2) On many CD25's and Tomcats, the owners build a small shelf just aft of the port side aft seat. They use this to put a microwave or toaster oven on. Given the frequency with which that mod occurs, it seems logical to either make it standard or to make it a factory option. The shelf is necessary to allow the door of an oven to open above the seat cushion. The area under the shelf could have a drawer added for storage. It would also be useful to put a 120V outlet in this area so it's easier to plug in a microwave, etc.
3) The electric shelf in many CD's is modified by the owners to make the upper surface useful. Typically the electronics are mounted to the bottom but the lack of a door or fiddle makes the top surface of the shelf useless for storage. A hinged door (perhaps in 3 pieces) would make this space more useful. A 3-piece door would also allow the door to be customized to hold the center part fixed for the installation of a stereo etc.
In general, it would be good for the factory guys to attend enough C-Brat gatherings or to do enough repair work at the factory so that they see what modifications are commonly made. The good ones that are frequently done should be either standard or factory options.
1) I've long argued for the production of a fairly standard wiring harness. I really believe that a harness could be made that was flexible enough to allow almost all common electrical installations to occur if there were enough spare wires in the harness for future expansion. If done properly and factory installed, I'm convinced that this would be far cheaper overall than having a custom wiring job done at each dealer. It would also allow the production of a standard wiring guide in the owners manual which would in the long run save owners time when a problem occurs or they need to add a new piece of equipment.
2) On many CD25's and Tomcats, the owners build a small shelf just aft of the port side aft seat. They use this to put a microwave or toaster oven on. Given the frequency with which that mod occurs, it seems logical to either make it standard or to make it a factory option. The shelf is necessary to allow the door of an oven to open above the seat cushion. The area under the shelf could have a drawer added for storage. It would also be useful to put a 120V outlet in this area so it's easier to plug in a microwave, etc.
3) The electric shelf in many CD's is modified by the owners to make the upper surface useful. Typically the electronics are mounted to the bottom but the lack of a door or fiddle makes the top surface of the shelf useless for storage. A hinged door (perhaps in 3 pieces) would make this space more useful. A 3-piece door would also allow the door to be customized to hold the center part fixed for the installation of a stereo etc.
In general, it would be good for the factory guys to attend enough C-Brat gatherings or to do enough repair work at the factory so that they see what modifications are commonly made. The good ones that are frequently done should be either standard or factory options.
One of my biggest gripes about the TomCat was the hatch covers for the forward sponson storage area. They were big, heavy and awkward with a single knob in their center.
In less than a half hour with a table saw, skill saw and router, I solved that problem. I'd suggest it as factory standard equipment.
The 4 are identical and interchangeable. It makes it so easy to pop one out and retrieve some water, etc.
In less than a half hour with a table saw, skill saw and router, I solved that problem. I'd suggest it as factory standard equipment.
The 4 are identical and interchangeable. It makes it so easy to pop one out and retrieve some water, etc.
rogerbum
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Roger,
I'm thinking of doing the same thing. On the Tomcat I bought, the cushions in the berth are sewn together down the center line of the boat which makes it even more difficult to access those areas. Where yours done that way? It doesn't look like it but perhaps Janet used a seam ripper to separate them. Also, I think it would be much better to have the seam between the cushions running from port to starboard rather than bow to stern. Since one will typically sleep in that orientation, it makes sense to have the seam run that direction rather than across ones back. That would allow you to lift the aft most cushion onto the forward cushion and would make access to the hatches easier. Finally, since the Tomcat berth is 4" longer than a queen size bed in both dimensions, it might make more sense to have cushions that where exactly a queen size bed in dimensions and then fill the other 4" in with some storage system (a shelf, a "headboard", whatever). That would allow one to use standard size sheets (fitted and flat). However, I suspect that 2 queen flat sheets work fine.
I'm thinking of doing the same thing. On the Tomcat I bought, the cushions in the berth are sewn together down the center line of the boat which makes it even more difficult to access those areas. Where yours done that way? It doesn't look like it but perhaps Janet used a seam ripper to separate them. Also, I think it would be much better to have the seam between the cushions running from port to starboard rather than bow to stern. Since one will typically sleep in that orientation, it makes sense to have the seam run that direction rather than across ones back. That would allow you to lift the aft most cushion onto the forward cushion and would make access to the hatches easier. Finally, since the Tomcat berth is 4" longer than a queen size bed in both dimensions, it might make more sense to have cushions that where exactly a queen size bed in dimensions and then fill the other 4" in with some storage system (a shelf, a "headboard", whatever). That would allow one to use standard size sheets (fitted and flat). However, I suspect that 2 queen flat sheets work fine.
Beflyguy
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Being a person who recognizes a good idea when he sees on but also can never leave anything alone, I seized upon Roger's hatch modification and added some stainless hinges.
I bought 6" of stainless piano hinge from Mcmaster Carr, cut the access panels similar to Roger's, cut the hinge into four parts and attached the covers to the opening. With this setup, you can open one end to get out small things or open the whole hatch for big stuff. The hinges allow the hatches to open flat either way if desired. Ann is very happy to no longer lose the covers down the holes.
I bought 6" of stainless piano hinge from Mcmaster Carr, cut the access panels similar to Roger's, cut the hinge into four parts and attached the covers to the opening. With this setup, you can open one end to get out small things or open the whole hatch for big stuff. The hinges allow the hatches to open flat either way if desired. Ann is very happy to no longer lose the covers down the holes.
Brian,
That's very cool! :wink: Nice work.
Roger: Janet did rip out the center seam about 24" back. Note the cushion on Brians boat. We should have held out for the 09 models! A hinge or separate cushion would be nice there. It's still not comfortable holding the mattress up with your head while diving into the storage hold. :crook
Roger
That's very cool! :wink: Nice work.
Roger: Janet did rip out the center seam about 24" back. Note the cushion on Brians boat. We should have held out for the 09 models! A hinge or separate cushion would be nice there. It's still not comfortable holding the mattress up with your head while diving into the storage hold. :crook
Roger
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rogerbum":1z692hiv said:
Roger,
You have a good idea about using the extra length for some storage. It could hold some clothing and other personal items and not interfere with the queen size bed. Our cushions are in four parts and work pretty well but there is some looseness on the sides. The 2" wide velcro strips hold the cushions together pretty well. I am planning to install new cushion material. I found a local place that will build a hybrid cushion with memory foam on the top and firmer foam below. Can't have too comfortable a bed at this age.
rogerbum
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Brian,
I have been looking around to find "split queen" mattresses - e.g. two mattresses the size of a queen bed when laid side by side. I ordered something similar for an adjustable bed for my mom awhile ago so I know they can be found. That might be an option as it's more like a real mattress but not quite as thick (maybe 4-5"). It just makes sense to me to make it so standard bedding will fit.
I have been looking around to find "split queen" mattresses - e.g. two mattresses the size of a queen bed when laid side by side. I ordered something similar for an adjustable bed for my mom awhile ago so I know they can be found. That might be an option as it's more like a real mattress but not quite as thick (maybe 4-5"). It just makes sense to me to make it so standard bedding will fit.
Sneaks
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Hey Scott,
Here's a suggestion for the C-16's anyway. I forgot what the C-22 area in front of the helm is like but I bet it could use a replaceable Starboard pad for electronics too.
Oh, and I found a place down here that uses and sells Starboard. I didn't know that Starboard comes in colors - and the blue Starboard isn't that far off C-Dory's "Tailgate Blue".
Thanks again for being here for us. It's definitely appreciated.
Don
Here's a suggestion for the C-16's anyway. I forgot what the C-22 area in front of the helm is like but I bet it could use a replaceable Starboard pad for electronics too.
Oh, and I found a place down here that uses and sells Starboard. I didn't know that Starboard comes in colors - and the blue Starboard isn't that far off C-Dory's "Tailgate Blue".
Thanks again for being here for us. It's definitely appreciated.
Don
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25 foot suggestion. Widen the opening for the V-Berth to be more like the Tom Cat. I made ours wider and it works much better for egress and ingress (I've been trying to use them thar fancy words for quite a while) promotes air circulation and gives more sleeping length.
chimoii
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lloyds":17iysiu8 said:
It certainly looks better. I do wonder whether the bulkhead contributes to torsional rigidity in the hull? I haven't looked at our 23 cruiser but is the bulkhead on the 22 or 25 glassed to the hull or free standing?