From: Mike (Original Message) Sent: 4/6/2003 12:50 PM
Note: This discussion is copied from the C-Brat Pub. A lot of good info here, so I thought it should be saved in the library. All of the messages that say they are from Mike are copied.
My steering on my 1988 22' C-Dory locked up. The end of the cable that goes into the support sleeve would no longer move. I hadn't used the boat in a few months so I assume there was some corrosion between the cable and the support sleeve. I was able to get the cable out of the support sleeve by pushing it through by banging it with a hammer.
Now the cable is out but I probably need to replace the sleeve. How do I remove it? It does not seem to want to budge. The motor is a 1988 70 HP Johnson outboard. Also, in removing the cable I bent it, so that must be replaced. Can I get a replacement cable only (Morse cable E300622 228") or do I have to replace the entire steering system? How do I prevent this from happening again?
Thanks for any help!
Mark
From: Mike Sent: 4/6/2003 12:50 PM
From: LBL Sent: 4/4/2003 3:55 PM
Mark,
Your steering system consists of a helm unit and the steering cable. The end of the steering cable goes through the tilt tube on the engine. Had you removed the tilt tube the motor would have, quite literally, fallen on the ground. I'm assuming that the "support tube" you're talking about is the smooth end of the steering cable that goes through the engine tilt tube, no?
In all likelihood you'll have to replace the whole steering system (helm unit and cable); most of the new cables don't fit the older helms. This isn't 'for sure' but just the most likely situation. You only pay a few dollars more to replace the helm unit along with the cable at any rate.
The way to avoid the situation in the future is to pull the steering cable out of the starboard side of the engine tilt tube each fall and thoroughly clean and lube it. There's a 98% chance that the problem is rust rather than corrossion.
At this point you also have the option of replacing your steering system with a no-feedback system or a Teleflex BayStar hydraulic steering system.
HTH,
Les
From: Mike Sent: 4/6/2003 12:50 PM
From: yellowstone Sent: 4/4/2003 7:19 PM
Mark - I had similar problems with my steering at a most inopportune time. I found that the salt had worked into the sleeve and had both rusted and pitted it. After considerable cleaning and effort and expense I got the steering working, but at the earliest opportunity installed the Sea Star Hydraulic system that Les mentioned. While it is expensive, I feel that the hydraulic steering is the only way to go. It is actually easier to install than a mechanical system, and with the C-Dory 22'cruiser, the bezel is the fluid reservior, freeing up all that protruding cable system in the electrical panel area. And it is easy to maintain. And the steering is so much more improved (no torque) that my wife noticed an immediate difference. You can install it yourself with minimum effort. It actually took me longer to take out the old mechanical system than install the hydraulic system. I believe the reliability factor is on the side of hydraulic steering.
John
From: Mike Sent: 4/6/2003 12:51 PM
From: Jim F Sent: 4/6/2003 10:27 AM
Mark - Unless the tilt tube is really banged up or the threads are totally gone, I'm not sure why you'd need to reaplce it Replacing it has to be a pretty major job, and pretty expensive for an engine that old. I'd get a wire brush like you use for cleaning copper pipes and really clean the rust out of the tube before replacing the steering. Les is right about the helm, and I wound up replacing both when I did mine. The semi-permanent fix for this is to get a "Cable Buddy", which is a replacement nut for the end of the title tube with a grease zerk in it to keep the tube lubricated. I haven't had any problems with my cable steering since I installed it. I'm using the same cable for my big heavy Yamaha F80, and it works fine.
Good luck - Jim F.
From: Mike Sent: 4/6/2003 12:51 PM
From: Jim F Sent: 4/6/2003 10:30 AM
Mark - BTW, the Westmarine model # for the Cable buddy is 398750. There's another version called the Steersman Steering Guard, and the # for that is 155806.
Jim F.
From: Mike Sent: 4/6/2003 12:52 PM
From: Mark Sent: 4/6/2003 10:37 AM
Thanks for the info - I will try cleaning out the tilt tube, then installing the Cable Buddy once the new cable and helm are in place.
Mark
Note: This discussion is copied from the C-Brat Pub. A lot of good info here, so I thought it should be saved in the library. All of the messages that say they are from Mike are copied.
My steering on my 1988 22' C-Dory locked up. The end of the cable that goes into the support sleeve would no longer move. I hadn't used the boat in a few months so I assume there was some corrosion between the cable and the support sleeve. I was able to get the cable out of the support sleeve by pushing it through by banging it with a hammer.
Now the cable is out but I probably need to replace the sleeve. How do I remove it? It does not seem to want to budge. The motor is a 1988 70 HP Johnson outboard. Also, in removing the cable I bent it, so that must be replaced. Can I get a replacement cable only (Morse cable E300622 228") or do I have to replace the entire steering system? How do I prevent this from happening again?
Thanks for any help!
Mark
From: Mike Sent: 4/6/2003 12:50 PM
From: LBL Sent: 4/4/2003 3:55 PM
Mark,
Your steering system consists of a helm unit and the steering cable. The end of the steering cable goes through the tilt tube on the engine. Had you removed the tilt tube the motor would have, quite literally, fallen on the ground. I'm assuming that the "support tube" you're talking about is the smooth end of the steering cable that goes through the engine tilt tube, no?
In all likelihood you'll have to replace the whole steering system (helm unit and cable); most of the new cables don't fit the older helms. This isn't 'for sure' but just the most likely situation. You only pay a few dollars more to replace the helm unit along with the cable at any rate.
The way to avoid the situation in the future is to pull the steering cable out of the starboard side of the engine tilt tube each fall and thoroughly clean and lube it. There's a 98% chance that the problem is rust rather than corrossion.
At this point you also have the option of replacing your steering system with a no-feedback system or a Teleflex BayStar hydraulic steering system.
HTH,
Les
From: Mike Sent: 4/6/2003 12:50 PM
From: yellowstone Sent: 4/4/2003 7:19 PM
Mark - I had similar problems with my steering at a most inopportune time. I found that the salt had worked into the sleeve and had both rusted and pitted it. After considerable cleaning and effort and expense I got the steering working, but at the earliest opportunity installed the Sea Star Hydraulic system that Les mentioned. While it is expensive, I feel that the hydraulic steering is the only way to go. It is actually easier to install than a mechanical system, and with the C-Dory 22'cruiser, the bezel is the fluid reservior, freeing up all that protruding cable system in the electrical panel area. And it is easy to maintain. And the steering is so much more improved (no torque) that my wife noticed an immediate difference. You can install it yourself with minimum effort. It actually took me longer to take out the old mechanical system than install the hydraulic system. I believe the reliability factor is on the side of hydraulic steering.
John
From: Mike Sent: 4/6/2003 12:51 PM
From: Jim F Sent: 4/6/2003 10:27 AM
Mark - Unless the tilt tube is really banged up or the threads are totally gone, I'm not sure why you'd need to reaplce it Replacing it has to be a pretty major job, and pretty expensive for an engine that old. I'd get a wire brush like you use for cleaning copper pipes and really clean the rust out of the tube before replacing the steering. Les is right about the helm, and I wound up replacing both when I did mine. The semi-permanent fix for this is to get a "Cable Buddy", which is a replacement nut for the end of the title tube with a grease zerk in it to keep the tube lubricated. I haven't had any problems with my cable steering since I installed it. I'm using the same cable for my big heavy Yamaha F80, and it works fine.
Good luck - Jim F.
From: Mike Sent: 4/6/2003 12:51 PM
From: Jim F Sent: 4/6/2003 10:30 AM
Mark - BTW, the Westmarine model # for the Cable buddy is 398750. There's another version called the Steersman Steering Guard, and the # for that is 155806.
Jim F.
From: Mike Sent: 4/6/2003 12:52 PM
From: Mark Sent: 4/6/2003 10:37 AM
Thanks for the info - I will try cleaning out the tilt tube, then installing the Cable Buddy once the new cable and helm are in place.
Mark