Stay afloat
- Thread starter ken35216
- Start date
beermanPDX
New member
It's real. But this will do the same thing for a lot less money:
Wax Toilet Ring
I had to change out a seacock while my boat was in the water. Had a diver friend smear some wax from a softened toilet ring over the thru-hull. No water came in while I changed the seacock (about 15 minutes). Wax comes right off when done.
Wax Toilet Ring
I had to change out a seacock while my boat was in the water. Had a diver friend smear some wax from a softened toilet ring over the thru-hull. No water came in while I changed the seacock (about 15 minutes). Wax comes right off when done.
Marco Flamingo
Active member
I hadn't thought about that stuff in years. I probably still have some of it somewhere (it was called Slick Seam and was about half the price of Stay Afloat). I kept in on board when I had a 1) crappy old boat that was 2) wood planked and had 3) extra unused through hulls and 4) an inboard. I had not thought about carrying it on my C Dory, which has none of those.
You can also butter a piece of canvas and use it as a tingle (instead of wiping it on with a finger. If you can't apply from inside, put on your swimsuit. I think I know why I haven't thought about that stuff for a while.
Mark
You can also butter a piece of canvas and use it as a tingle (instead of wiping it on with a finger. If you can't apply from inside, put on your swimsuit. I think I know why I haven't thought about that stuff for a while.
Mark
beermanPDX":1u9ocie3 said:
Could you take a wax toilet ring, and scrunch it up into a small (cottage cheese - maybe) container, by warming ans softening and have it in a small tub like this stuff, and have it ready to use. I have heard of using a wax ring but never added it to my boat. I do carry a roll of "Flex-Seal" tape, which proports to being able to apply under water. I also carry "Rescue Tape".
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
In reality it is gong to be extremely unusual to put a hole in the bottom of a C Dory under normal operation.
There is also the underwater epoxy--such asSplash Zone compound. I have actually used that. We hit a uncharted (on DMA charts which we had--was on British Admiralty charts which we didn't have) pinnacle rock off the coast of Turkey. I dove on the boat that afternoon--and there was an area about a foot long and 6" wide of fiberglass damage. I mixed up Splash Zone compound on a piece of waxed paper, backed by cardboard. We rigged a Spanish Windlass around the boat, and tightened up several lines,(backed the cardboard with 1 x 2" wood). The next morning removed the wax paper and cardboard. The epoxy had filled the cracks and conformed to the bottom of the keel. We ground out and repaired the area 9 months later. The epoxy had penetrated almost all of the cracks. (The keel was about 1 1/2" of mat and roving at that point of impact.) There are many other epoxies, such as that by J B weld (semi solid) or PC 11(paste), which, when mixed will set up underwater. The epoxy options are a far more "permanent repair than wax. With the epoxy, you can continue the voyage and permanently repair later. For a large hole, a triangular piece of cloth, with lines on each corner is a good temporary repair--and can be used with the wax.
As to Harvey's question about the toilet ring wax being heated and put into a container--yes.
There is also the underwater epoxy--such asSplash Zone compound. I have actually used that. We hit a uncharted (on DMA charts which we had--was on British Admiralty charts which we didn't have) pinnacle rock off the coast of Turkey. I dove on the boat that afternoon--and there was an area about a foot long and 6" wide of fiberglass damage. I mixed up Splash Zone compound on a piece of waxed paper, backed by cardboard. We rigged a Spanish Windlass around the boat, and tightened up several lines,(backed the cardboard with 1 x 2" wood). The next morning removed the wax paper and cardboard. The epoxy had filled the cracks and conformed to the bottom of the keel. We ground out and repaired the area 9 months later. The epoxy had penetrated almost all of the cracks. (The keel was about 1 1/2" of mat and roving at that point of impact.) There are many other epoxies, such as that by J B weld (semi solid) or PC 11(paste), which, when mixed will set up underwater. The epoxy options are a far more "permanent repair than wax. With the epoxy, you can continue the voyage and permanently repair later. For a large hole, a triangular piece of cloth, with lines on each corner is a good temporary repair--and can be used with the wax.
As to Harvey's question about the toilet ring wax being heated and put into a container--yes.
Saxe Point
New member
Not looking to derail the thread, but have there ever been any reported hull failures in a C Dory by virtue of a stress crack? In some other forums, the posters were discussing the suitability of a C Dory for offshore tuna fishing. Some said that they experienced the (bottom of the) hulll of the C Dory flexing in rough conditions. If true, I assume that this could ultimately weaken the hull and lead to failure.
(Of course any hull can be abused if driven hard enough, but I’m wondering here about normal and responsible use.)
I’m still committed to getting a C Dory, but I’m wondering if these observations and my assumptions about potential failure are accurate.
(Of course any hull can be abused if driven hard enough, but I’m wondering here about normal and responsible use.)
I’m still committed to getting a C Dory, but I’m wondering if these observations and my assumptions about potential failure are accurate.
Saxe Point
New member
Not looking to derail the thread, but have there ever been any reported hull failures in a C Dory by virtue of a stress crack? In some other forums, the posters were discussing the suitability of a C Dory for offshore tuna fishing. Some said that they experienced the (bottom of the) hulll of the C Dory flexing in rough conditions. If true, I assume that this could ultimately weaken the hull and lead to failure.
(Of course any hull can be abused if driven hard enough, but I’m wondering here about normal and responsible use.)
I’m still committed to getting a C Dory, but I’m wondering if these observations and my assumptions about potential failure are accurate.
(Of course any hull can be abused if driven hard enough, but I’m wondering here about normal and responsible use.)
I’m still committed to getting a C Dory, but I’m wondering if these observations and my assumptions about potential failure are accurate.
colbysmith
Active member
I've always wondered the same thing. I've taken some pretty good wave hits, the worse being quartering broadside! Also the usual beating going into the waves. And (believe it or not, lol) one or two hard "landings" dock side.
No hull failures due to stress of boating. Where there have been issues, is water penetrating the core. If an owner is having hull bottom flexing, then that boat had been abused and there is probably water in the core. Boats have been re-cored. It is a very unusual boat which has that problem.
Most of the negative responses to C Dory's is from people who either never owned one, or owned one and never learned how to drive the boat properly.
I have heard of one boat which took a swamping wave over the transom, but there was operator error--and the boat was bailed out, and got home safely. Another boat was caught in the surf, rolled and pounded on the bottom (may have been some rocks). That boat was very badly damaged, but eventually someone totally restored the boat.
The 25 I bought was badly abused. The cockpit deck was broken and holed (also had water intrusion related to leaving out, uncovered several winters in New Jersey). The bow V Berth platform had the tabbing knocked loose from pounding into seas. The bottom of the hull was as stiff as when it was built. The tabbing was easily repaired. A new cockpit floor installed, and we used the boat all over the USA from Florida to Icy Straits AK.
The secret of the boats is getting the bow down when going into seas, using both trim tabs and hydrofoils on the lower unit of the motor (Permatrim). It will throw some water, but you are in a cabin, which is virtually waterproof from waves from the bow. The very low planing speed also helps. But if the boat is slamming--slow down!
Most of the negative responses to C Dory's is from people who either never owned one, or owned one and never learned how to drive the boat properly.
I have heard of one boat which took a swamping wave over the transom, but there was operator error--and the boat was bailed out, and got home safely. Another boat was caught in the surf, rolled and pounded on the bottom (may have been some rocks). That boat was very badly damaged, but eventually someone totally restored the boat.
The 25 I bought was badly abused. The cockpit deck was broken and holed (also had water intrusion related to leaving out, uncovered several winters in New Jersey). The bow V Berth platform had the tabbing knocked loose from pounding into seas. The bottom of the hull was as stiff as when it was built. The tabbing was easily repaired. A new cockpit floor installed, and we used the boat all over the USA from Florida to Icy Straits AK.
The secret of the boats is getting the bow down when going into seas, using both trim tabs and hydrofoils on the lower unit of the motor (Permatrim). It will throw some water, but you are in a cabin, which is virtually waterproof from waves from the bow. The very low planing speed also helps. But if the boat is slamming--slow down!
Marco Flamingo
Active member
You can easily tell when a C Dory is about to break apart. First, your vertebrae will compress from the pounding and you will lose bladder control. Then your teeth will smash together and fall down the front of your shirt. Then you will lose consciousness from the concussive trauma to your brain. If you haven't slowed down yet, you may damage your hull.
Mark
Mark
colbysmith
Active member
I take that to mean, I haven't broken my boat yet! lol 