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Southeast Alaska 2012 with Jay, Jo-Lee & the Hunkydory
- Thread starter Hunkydory
- Start date
6-19-12
Smooth water run with many whales north up Stephens Passage, into Holkum Bay & then south down Endicott Arm to the Fords Terror inlet entrance. In our travels to Fords Terror down Endicott Arm in 2004, 2007 & 2010 never saw another boat. Has always been to much ice in Endicott Arm for boats to make the Dawes tide water glacier. It has seemed to me to be that special isolated place the furthest away from the rest of the world. This time shortly after entering Endictt Arm met a big cruise ship, then while waiting for the slack tide at the Fords Terror bar a mini 100 foot cruise boat came in & crossed the bar ahead of us, then when we passed it the Captain called & said they were anchoring in the West Arm & suggested we anchor in the east. The east has very poor anchorages & another bar to cross that runs a fast rapid on the lower ends of the tide, so I guess you know how well that went over. Yes, we anchored in our favorite spot & told him we would be doing so. From listening to the different mini cruise ships talk on VHF know that Fords Terror is now on their schedules & seldom is one not there. Was starting to really get bummed out & then noticed where a large section of 1000 foot cliff had slid into the north side of the west bay very recently. The water was more a muddy brown then the turquoise blue. A grey dust coated the trees directly across from the slide & some appeared to have been blown over. The wave created couldn't have been to high because there is very little damage above the high tide line. The area around the section that broke off doesn't appear to stable & we'er a little nervous about anchoring here tonight.
67 miles today & 1418 total
6-20-12
Today has been our most exciting cruise day since running the FordsTerror Rapids by mistake in 2004 causing the loss of cameras, computer & depth sounder.
The day started great with a semi blue sky & beautiful. Saw a bear late last night by the boat & another with two cubs from the Mokai at the east arm head. Had a fun ride through the rapids coming & going to the east arm. It was a 2 foot minus tide on the way back so decided to check damage to tidal zone from rock fall & was startled by the amount of scouring of it. The whole tidal zone around much of the west arm had been baldly damaged or wiped clean. It appeared the rock fall had occurred at a low tide & the rebounding waves had really made an effect. The remaining section of the cliff face that looked unstable was more directly aimed at our anchorage then the one that had fell. That's when I decided it was time to leave pronto. It was already just passed the slack on a incoming flood tide & we still had to pull anchor then make the five miles to the bar crossing. While pulling anchor could here popping sounds coming from the cliff face. Needless to say it was wide open throttle to the crossing, which we didn't make in time, so another rapid run, this time into it on a flood making it not near as bad as in 2004. Still a heart thumper & us wondering if we were going from the frying pan to the fire. JoLee on the camera & me saying keep filming. At least no losses this time, but both of us wondering if we'd badly overreacted. Once out & it being still early in the day decided to go on up Endicott Arm & see Dawes glacier. Made it to less then a mile from the face before running into wall to wall bergie bits. Would liked to have got closer, but could see it calf & hear it's thunder, so was very satisfied with the run, being it was a glacier I never thought we would get to see at all. As we passed by the Fords Terror Inlet on the way back we heard the Island Spirit the mini cruise ship that was still in Fords Terror when we left talking to another another one on the VHF radio. They were saying the original rock fall had occurred just a couple days ago & that when they were pulling anchor today on the slack flood after we left another smaller one had come down shaking everyone up pretty good & filling the basin with dust again. There were two more mini cruisers planning on entering the Inlet, but instead anchored on the outside. This conversation made us feel quite good about our rapid departure & will be advising Sam on Retriever when we see him tomorrow, if we do, to skip Fords Terror this trip.
The rest of the day spent continuing back up Endicott Arm to the anchorage where we are now, at the start of Tracy Arm was all smooth water & blue sky with many whales & only a few scattered icebergs. While passing by the islands between Endicott & Tracy Arms of Holkum Bay saw a eagle trying to get the scraps from what a sea lion was eating. Every time it dived down to grab a morsel the sea lion would rear out of the water with its mouth open trying to nab the eagle. Quite a sight.
Another great day to add to our memories for when the rocking chairs are creaking.
63 miles today 1480 total
Jay
6-21-12
Today has the most daylight of the year & we made the best of it. Slow cruised up magnificent Tracy Arm to see again the glaciers at its head. The day started with rain, but by noon the sun broke out & made for a dazzling show. Both North & South Sawyer Glaciers have retreated since we were here last eight years ago. The bigger glacier South Sawyer is perhaps 1/3 the width it was then making for less ice in the fjord, this in turn made for a less risky path through the icebergs. The only downside being not so much action at the glacier face. The sun shinning on the water with the light chop from the wind made it very difficult to see the bergie bits on the way out. Hit a couple that made a lot of noise, but thankfully no damage to the boat or motors.
Sam & his brother on the C -Dory Retriever were already anchored in Tracy Arm Bay when we got back, so had a good time swapping tales. He's having a great adventure with all going well so far. I passed on the rock slide info on Fords Terror & he, though disappointed was glad for the heads up. Sam hadn't saw a bear on his trip so far & then while I was on the boat with them, two cubs ran by on the shore.
Sam told me that I had somehow missed seeing Dick from Pennsylvania also up Tracy Arm today on his C-Dory named Hunkydory. They had seen & talked to him coming out of Tracy Arm this afternoon. We went into the North Sawyer channel before the south & he must of left the south channel back down Tracy Arm while we were there. We have been communicating when possible & had hoped to meet up, so disappointed we missed him by only a mile or two in this big area. He also launched from Skagway after driving all the way from Pennsylvania, 3900 miles in five days.
Saw our first black bear scraping rocks in the tide zone for food on our way up Tracy Arm this morning. All the bears we have seen so far this trip were Grizzlies known here in Southeast as Brown Bears or Brownies for short.
62 miles today & 1542 total
Jay
Smooth water run with many whales north up Stephens Passage, into Holkum Bay & then south down Endicott Arm to the Fords Terror inlet entrance. In our travels to Fords Terror down Endicott Arm in 2004, 2007 & 2010 never saw another boat. Has always been to much ice in Endicott Arm for boats to make the Dawes tide water glacier. It has seemed to me to be that special isolated place the furthest away from the rest of the world. This time shortly after entering Endictt Arm met a big cruise ship, then while waiting for the slack tide at the Fords Terror bar a mini 100 foot cruise boat came in & crossed the bar ahead of us, then when we passed it the Captain called & said they were anchoring in the West Arm & suggested we anchor in the east. The east has very poor anchorages & another bar to cross that runs a fast rapid on the lower ends of the tide, so I guess you know how well that went over. Yes, we anchored in our favorite spot & told him we would be doing so. From listening to the different mini cruise ships talk on VHF know that Fords Terror is now on their schedules & seldom is one not there. Was starting to really get bummed out & then noticed where a large section of 1000 foot cliff had slid into the north side of the west bay very recently. The water was more a muddy brown then the turquoise blue. A grey dust coated the trees directly across from the slide & some appeared to have been blown over. The wave created couldn't have been to high because there is very little damage above the high tide line. The area around the section that broke off doesn't appear to stable & we'er a little nervous about anchoring here tonight.
67 miles today & 1418 total
6-20-12
Today has been our most exciting cruise day since running the FordsTerror Rapids by mistake in 2004 causing the loss of cameras, computer & depth sounder.
The day started great with a semi blue sky & beautiful. Saw a bear late last night by the boat & another with two cubs from the Mokai at the east arm head. Had a fun ride through the rapids coming & going to the east arm. It was a 2 foot minus tide on the way back so decided to check damage to tidal zone from rock fall & was startled by the amount of scouring of it. The whole tidal zone around much of the west arm had been baldly damaged or wiped clean. It appeared the rock fall had occurred at a low tide & the rebounding waves had really made an effect. The remaining section of the cliff face that looked unstable was more directly aimed at our anchorage then the one that had fell. That's when I decided it was time to leave pronto. It was already just passed the slack on a incoming flood tide & we still had to pull anchor then make the five miles to the bar crossing. While pulling anchor could here popping sounds coming from the cliff face. Needless to say it was wide open throttle to the crossing, which we didn't make in time, so another rapid run, this time into it on a flood making it not near as bad as in 2004. Still a heart thumper & us wondering if we were going from the frying pan to the fire. JoLee on the camera & me saying keep filming. At least no losses this time, but both of us wondering if we'd badly overreacted. Once out & it being still early in the day decided to go on up Endicott Arm & see Dawes glacier. Made it to less then a mile from the face before running into wall to wall bergie bits. Would liked to have got closer, but could see it calf & hear it's thunder, so was very satisfied with the run, being it was a glacier I never thought we would get to see at all. As we passed by the Fords Terror Inlet on the way back we heard the Island Spirit the mini cruise ship that was still in Fords Terror when we left talking to another another one on the VHF radio. They were saying the original rock fall had occurred just a couple days ago & that when they were pulling anchor today on the slack flood after we left another smaller one had come down shaking everyone up pretty good & filling the basin with dust again. There were two more mini cruisers planning on entering the Inlet, but instead anchored on the outside. This conversation made us feel quite good about our rapid departure & will be advising Sam on Retriever when we see him tomorrow, if we do, to skip Fords Terror this trip.
The rest of the day spent continuing back up Endicott Arm to the anchorage where we are now, at the start of Tracy Arm was all smooth water & blue sky with many whales & only a few scattered icebergs. While passing by the islands between Endicott & Tracy Arms of Holkum Bay saw a eagle trying to get the scraps from what a sea lion was eating. Every time it dived down to grab a morsel the sea lion would rear out of the water with its mouth open trying to nab the eagle. Quite a sight.
Another great day to add to our memories for when the rocking chairs are creaking.
63 miles today 1480 total
Jay
6-21-12
Today has the most daylight of the year & we made the best of it. Slow cruised up magnificent Tracy Arm to see again the glaciers at its head. The day started with rain, but by noon the sun broke out & made for a dazzling show. Both North & South Sawyer Glaciers have retreated since we were here last eight years ago. The bigger glacier South Sawyer is perhaps 1/3 the width it was then making for less ice in the fjord, this in turn made for a less risky path through the icebergs. The only downside being not so much action at the glacier face. The sun shinning on the water with the light chop from the wind made it very difficult to see the bergie bits on the way out. Hit a couple that made a lot of noise, but thankfully no damage to the boat or motors.
Sam & his brother on the C -Dory Retriever were already anchored in Tracy Arm Bay when we got back, so had a good time swapping tales. He's having a great adventure with all going well so far. I passed on the rock slide info on Fords Terror & he, though disappointed was glad for the heads up. Sam hadn't saw a bear on his trip so far & then while I was on the boat with them, two cubs ran by on the shore.
Sam told me that I had somehow missed seeing Dick from Pennsylvania also up Tracy Arm today on his C-Dory named Hunkydory. They had seen & talked to him coming out of Tracy Arm this afternoon. We went into the North Sawyer channel before the south & he must of left the south channel back down Tracy Arm while we were there. We have been communicating when possible & had hoped to meet up, so disappointed we missed him by only a mile or two in this big area. He also launched from Skagway after driving all the way from Pennsylvania, 3900 miles in five days.
Saw our first black bear scraping rocks in the tide zone for food on our way up Tracy Arm this morning. All the bears we have seen so far this trip were Grizzlies known here in Southeast as Brown Bears or Brownies for short.
62 miles today & 1542 total
Jay
6-22-12
Up at 4AM to make the ebb tide for our run today, so before 5AM were headed out the cove waving to the Retriever & the still resting crew while silently wishing them a contined safe & wonderful Grand Adventure. We've now been on the water out of Skagway 67 days & with only 30 or so more before we head for home decided to go back south around Admiralty Island with a stop in Kake before going back to Red Bluff Bay & then to the outer coast if the weather cooperates. Today it was a bit bumpy on Stephens Passage with some 20 mph winds & then smoothed out across Fredrick Sound. Some one was calling us on the VHF when we were near Gambier Bay, but to much static to hear who or why.
We're tied up at the Portage Cove Docks near Kake for the night & hoping the small craft warnings for Chatham Strait will be lifted for the crossing to Red Bluff Bay tomorrow.
63 miles today & 1605 total
Up at 4AM to make the ebb tide for our run today, so before 5AM were headed out the cove waving to the Retriever & the still resting crew while silently wishing them a contined safe & wonderful Grand Adventure. We've now been on the water out of Skagway 67 days & with only 30 or so more before we head for home decided to go back south around Admiralty Island with a stop in Kake before going back to Red Bluff Bay & then to the outer coast if the weather cooperates. Today it was a bit bumpy on Stephens Passage with some 20 mph winds & then smoothed out across Fredrick Sound. Some one was calling us on the VHF when we were near Gambier Bay, but to much static to hear who or why.
We're tied up at the Portage Cove Docks near Kake for the night & hoping the small craft warnings for Chatham Strait will be lifted for the crossing to Red Bluff Bay tomorrow.
63 miles today & 1605 total
20dauntless
New member
It was great to meet you Jay! We talked with several more people who confirmed the recent rock slide and instability in Ford's Terror...thanks for the heads up. We ended up anchoring outside of the rapids and had a great time in a beautiful spot with one other boat. They even one upped your Mokai with all their toys...an inflatable with 60hp, sea doo, lots of kayaks, and...a sea plane!
6-23-12
20 knot north winds kicking up four foot wind waves that we took on our starboard beam for the crossing of Chatham Strait directly from east to west.
Waves looked to be 3 to 4 feet to me & the VHF weather station said 4. Amazes me how well the C-Dory & Mokai handle these condition. We cruised along at 12 knots with much spray even got some in the cockpit which is rare. JoLee prefers laying on cushions on the cabin floor in these conditions. If waves were any bigger we would have had to go north quartering into the waves then south on the stern instead of the shortest route with them on the beam.
Today was the first all blue sky day for the trip & actually got a little warm late this afternoon for us cold climatized couple. No worry we will have to adapt, temperatures are suppose to drop back to the 50's tomorrow. Then more rain on the way.
6 bears in the meadow when we arrived back here at Red Bluff Bay today & still 3 out there tonight.
Today we saw an eagle make a try for an otter in the water. It was making a low run over the bay to shore & was just starting to shoot up like it was going to land in a tree when it peeled over very fast making an abrupt turn & dive, just missing the otter by an inch or two. It sure would have been something to watch had it connected. Never thought an eagle would even make the attempt on something as big & capable of a fight as an otter even if a smaller young one or maybe it missed on purpose with making the otter dive from it the goal. See them go after ducks here quite often & thought that's what it was after when we saw it going by so low.
38 miles today & 1643 total.
6-24-12
An almost perfect day & it would have been if I could have got the photos I was trying for. The really big bear I've been trying to get photos & video of showed up again, but was elusive as ever. Made it to within 30 yards with the stiff breeze keeping my aroma from him & some rocks between us so he couldn't see me, but trying to control the Mokai with paddles in the wind & still get camera in hand in the very short period I was visible to him just didn't pan out again. I get a huge charge out of trying, very similar to hunting for the kill before losing that desire. I have found bear hunting with a camera much more enjoyable than fishing. I could have made the camera shot I wanted by going to shore by the rocks & bank that was between us, but at 30 yards or closer if my surprising sent him in my direction instead of away, I thought the outcome not worth the risk to the bear or myself.
There was supposed to be a storm arrive today, but instead had another beautiful day with just a wind increase. We've got all secured & a good anchor set if it arrives tonight.
6-25-12
I'm still continually amazed by this special place, Red Bluff Bay. I have now seen enough times 18 different bears here, that I recognize on sight who it is & most their individual behavior. Saw from a distance the big male come out into the meadows & send the 5 bears already there off & running & then later fairly close from me, like about 150 yards, it go after the female with 3 cubs. Also found another female with two very young cubs today making a total of 4 females with 8 cubs that make the head of the bay their home. Being the bears are not now gathered for the fish runs this area of the bay has an incredibly high density of bears per square mile. Most all of these bears are spending the majority of their time in a area roughly 1.5 miles by 1 mile.
The motor sailor boat Betty Mc, that we last saw in Tracy Arm Bay when we were there with Sam & his brother on the Retriever, showed up here today. Sam had told us about the Its incredible trip from Australia by way of Japan & the Aleutians & today we got to hear it from them too. The boat is only 44 feet, but does have a normal motor range of 3000 miles without extra bladders. They said over 25,000 miles had been logged since leaving Australia & their arrival here. You sure can meet up with for real adventurers on a trip like we'er on & I love hearing directly from them even if its only bits & pieces of their travels.
The other boats here today were a 36 foot Monk trawler that we tied up next to & chatted with in Sitka & a beautiful 42 foot Nordic Tug, which for the most part are on the smaller end of the boats we've seen. Anchoring by Sam in his 22 foot C-Dory a few days ago made us again realize just how small we are compared to the other boats making the rounds in Southeast Alaska.
6-26-12
Started raining yesterday evening, which continued through he night & most of today. We downloaded video from the camera to the computer & watched it for several hours today. Really enjoyed viewing what I had recorded since Petersburg.
The Betty Mc left here today & was replaced by a 100 plus foot sleek big money yacht & the mini cruiser West Cove. Fun going in close & checking them out in the Mokai.
This evening after 10 days total trying finally got some fairly close up photos of the big bear standing to check me out. I had slipped in very quietly in the Mokai with the wind in my favor, so for the first time instead of immediately taking off on the run he stood up to see what I was. I was up a tidal stream not all that wide or deep, so when he stood & looked me over at about 80 yards it was goose bump time. The female with the three cubs has got more used to me in the Mokai & doesn't mediately take off when seeing or smelling me now. I like to watch the mother & cubs reaction to me & other bears especially the big male who is spending most of his time close to them. I have seen him make several runs on her & the cubs, but so backs off when she turns on him with the cubs already in cover. I think he's working at trying to catch her with the cubs in the open & it won't be a good day for them if he does.
Jay
20 knot north winds kicking up four foot wind waves that we took on our starboard beam for the crossing of Chatham Strait directly from east to west.
Waves looked to be 3 to 4 feet to me & the VHF weather station said 4. Amazes me how well the C-Dory & Mokai handle these condition. We cruised along at 12 knots with much spray even got some in the cockpit which is rare. JoLee prefers laying on cushions on the cabin floor in these conditions. If waves were any bigger we would have had to go north quartering into the waves then south on the stern instead of the shortest route with them on the beam.
Today was the first all blue sky day for the trip & actually got a little warm late this afternoon for us cold climatized couple. No worry we will have to adapt, temperatures are suppose to drop back to the 50's tomorrow. Then more rain on the way.
6 bears in the meadow when we arrived back here at Red Bluff Bay today & still 3 out there tonight.
Today we saw an eagle make a try for an otter in the water. It was making a low run over the bay to shore & was just starting to shoot up like it was going to land in a tree when it peeled over very fast making an abrupt turn & dive, just missing the otter by an inch or two. It sure would have been something to watch had it connected. Never thought an eagle would even make the attempt on something as big & capable of a fight as an otter even if a smaller young one or maybe it missed on purpose with making the otter dive from it the goal. See them go after ducks here quite often & thought that's what it was after when we saw it going by so low.
38 miles today & 1643 total.
6-24-12
An almost perfect day & it would have been if I could have got the photos I was trying for. The really big bear I've been trying to get photos & video of showed up again, but was elusive as ever. Made it to within 30 yards with the stiff breeze keeping my aroma from him & some rocks between us so he couldn't see me, but trying to control the Mokai with paddles in the wind & still get camera in hand in the very short period I was visible to him just didn't pan out again. I get a huge charge out of trying, very similar to hunting for the kill before losing that desire. I have found bear hunting with a camera much more enjoyable than fishing. I could have made the camera shot I wanted by going to shore by the rocks & bank that was between us, but at 30 yards or closer if my surprising sent him in my direction instead of away, I thought the outcome not worth the risk to the bear or myself.
There was supposed to be a storm arrive today, but instead had another beautiful day with just a wind increase. We've got all secured & a good anchor set if it arrives tonight.
6-25-12
I'm still continually amazed by this special place, Red Bluff Bay. I have now seen enough times 18 different bears here, that I recognize on sight who it is & most their individual behavior. Saw from a distance the big male come out into the meadows & send the 5 bears already there off & running & then later fairly close from me, like about 150 yards, it go after the female with 3 cubs. Also found another female with two very young cubs today making a total of 4 females with 8 cubs that make the head of the bay their home. Being the bears are not now gathered for the fish runs this area of the bay has an incredibly high density of bears per square mile. Most all of these bears are spending the majority of their time in a area roughly 1.5 miles by 1 mile.
The motor sailor boat Betty Mc, that we last saw in Tracy Arm Bay when we were there with Sam & his brother on the Retriever, showed up here today. Sam had told us about the Its incredible trip from Australia by way of Japan & the Aleutians & today we got to hear it from them too. The boat is only 44 feet, but does have a normal motor range of 3000 miles without extra bladders. They said over 25,000 miles had been logged since leaving Australia & their arrival here. You sure can meet up with for real adventurers on a trip like we'er on & I love hearing directly from them even if its only bits & pieces of their travels.
The other boats here today were a 36 foot Monk trawler that we tied up next to & chatted with in Sitka & a beautiful 42 foot Nordic Tug, which for the most part are on the smaller end of the boats we've seen. Anchoring by Sam in his 22 foot C-Dory a few days ago made us again realize just how small we are compared to the other boats making the rounds in Southeast Alaska.
6-26-12
Started raining yesterday evening, which continued through he night & most of today. We downloaded video from the camera to the computer & watched it for several hours today. Really enjoyed viewing what I had recorded since Petersburg.
The Betty Mc left here today & was replaced by a 100 plus foot sleek big money yacht & the mini cruiser West Cove. Fun going in close & checking them out in the Mokai.
This evening after 10 days total trying finally got some fairly close up photos of the big bear standing to check me out. I had slipped in very quietly in the Mokai with the wind in my favor, so for the first time instead of immediately taking off on the run he stood up to see what I was. I was up a tidal stream not all that wide or deep, so when he stood & looked me over at about 80 yards it was goose bump time. The female with the three cubs has got more used to me in the Mokai & doesn't mediately take off when seeing or smelling me now. I like to watch the mother & cubs reaction to me & other bears especially the big male who is spending most of his time close to them. I have seen him make several runs on her & the cubs, but so backs off when she turns on him with the cubs already in cover. I think he's working at trying to catch her with the cubs in the open & it won't be a good day for them if he does.
Jay
We'er currently on Chatham Strait coming up on Point Gardner, the south end of Admiralty Island on smooth seas going from Red Bluff Bay, on Baranof Island to Whitewater Bay on Admiralty Island. While leaving Red Bluff Bay saw our first whale ever there in front of the cannery ruins. It was a very welcome surprise & a wonderful departure present from our favorite Bay in all of Southeast Alaska. As much as we love the place, I thought it was time to leave. With getting to know the bears was starting to press a little to close on shore, so this way don't have restrain myself.
Jay
Jay
20dauntless":18ut1twd said:It was great to meet you Jay! We talked with several more people who confirmed the recent rock slide and instability in Ford's Terror...thanks for the heads up. We ended up anchoring outside of the rapids and had a great time in a beautiful spot with one other boat. They even one upped your Mokai with all their toys...an inflatable with 60hp, sea doo, lots of kayaks, and...a sea plane!
Sam, yes not hard to out due me on the toys. The other boat with us at Red Bluff Bay last night was a luxury yacht over a hundred feet & loaded with toys.
I just finished reading to Jolee the latest on your blog. Your recording a great trip with fantastic writing & photos. Whenever we can get the internet one of the first thing we do is check into your site for the latest.
Hope to see you again before we pull out.
Jay
Hunkydory":3uug1s1u said:6-22-12
...
Some one was calling us on the VHF when we were near Gambier Bay, but to much static to hear who or why.
...
Jay, Helen & I were at the entrance of Endicott Arm inbound to Dawes Glacier on 06/22/12. I was calling you on VHF to get your location.
6-28-12
We'er now anchored in Whitewater Bay, Admiralty Island in a pouring rain, which started just after our arrival. We were last here in 2007 heading the opposite direction having been out on the Chichagof Wilderness coast & back through Pelican & Elfin Cove to Dundas Bay & then doubling back around Icy Strait to Tenekee Springs, then here, Warm Springs Bay & finally anchoring in Red Bluff Bay in the dark with nights spent only in Pelican & Swanson Harbor off Icy Strait along the way. That was pre retirement when 100 mile + days were not unusual with the longest being over 200.
In the rain tonight I found a over mile long winding tidal channel that I missed in 2007. It is lined with grassy areas & huge trees & curves it's way to a large bowl . At the head of the bowl is a large grassy area with a beautiful river flowing in & through the grass from the trees & mountains beyond. On one side of this upper bowl is a large waterfall. This is one of the most unique bay head I have seen yet in Southeast Alaska. I was going fairly fast in the Mokai due to the rain & dark coming on & in the grassy area just before where the river enters surprised a large bear. It had a astonished look on its face & moved in retreat as fast as I've ever seen one go. Don't know why it never heard me coming, maybe a human enclosed in a fast little toy boat in the rain & mist was just to much for it to comprehend. With its location across Chatham Strait from popular Warm Springs Bay, Takatz Bay & Cosmos Cove it's a place not often visited by cruise boats. The only downside to today's visit was the rain & some crab fisherman who has dumped off all his pots for storage in the area best to anchor. With the C-Dory we found a place between them & shore where most other boats wouldn't fit. In 2010 we found the same thing near Hoonah in Port Fredrick, where the Neka river enters. I find it strange they are allowed to do this.
Tonight we'er relaxing here in the boat with JoLee reading another book & me writing this with one hand full of my daily ration, while on the boat of a tot of hot buttered rum. No wonder the Brits are no longer ruling the high seas having taking away the daily tot ration from the very ones who put her on top.
39 miles today & 1682 total
Jay
We'er now anchored in Whitewater Bay, Admiralty Island in a pouring rain, which started just after our arrival. We were last here in 2007 heading the opposite direction having been out on the Chichagof Wilderness coast & back through Pelican & Elfin Cove to Dundas Bay & then doubling back around Icy Strait to Tenekee Springs, then here, Warm Springs Bay & finally anchoring in Red Bluff Bay in the dark with nights spent only in Pelican & Swanson Harbor off Icy Strait along the way. That was pre retirement when 100 mile + days were not unusual with the longest being over 200.
In the rain tonight I found a over mile long winding tidal channel that I missed in 2007. It is lined with grassy areas & huge trees & curves it's way to a large bowl . At the head of the bowl is a large grassy area with a beautiful river flowing in & through the grass from the trees & mountains beyond. On one side of this upper bowl is a large waterfall. This is one of the most unique bay head I have seen yet in Southeast Alaska. I was going fairly fast in the Mokai due to the rain & dark coming on & in the grassy area just before where the river enters surprised a large bear. It had a astonished look on its face & moved in retreat as fast as I've ever seen one go. Don't know why it never heard me coming, maybe a human enclosed in a fast little toy boat in the rain & mist was just to much for it to comprehend. With its location across Chatham Strait from popular Warm Springs Bay, Takatz Bay & Cosmos Cove it's a place not often visited by cruise boats. The only downside to today's visit was the rain & some crab fisherman who has dumped off all his pots for storage in the area best to anchor. With the C-Dory we found a place between them & shore where most other boats wouldn't fit. In 2010 we found the same thing near Hoonah in Port Fredrick, where the Neka river enters. I find it strange they are allowed to do this.
Tonight we'er relaxing here in the boat with JoLee reading another book & me writing this with one hand full of my daily ration, while on the boat of a tot of hot buttered rum. No wonder the Brits are no longer ruling the high seas having taking away the daily tot ration from the very ones who put her on top.
39 miles today & 1682 total
Jay
Jay, am continuing to enjoy your travelogue. It makes up a little for my lack of opportunity to spend much time on my boat this summer.
I have to agree with you on the hot buttered rum. There is nothing quite like it to take the edge off a cold wet day - think your theory on the Royal Navy has some merit.
I have to agree with you on the hot buttered rum. There is nothing quite like it to take the edge off a cold wet day - think your theory on the Royal Navy has some merit.
Jack in Alaska
New member
Jay,
I am still following you on your adventure. Where is your destination (pull out on your trailer) and when do you plan on doing that.??
Your trip has inspired me as well as many others. All of us are envious, except when you are cold and wet, but that is part of the deal.
Be safe.........Jack on HIGH TIDE
I am still following you on your adventure. Where is your destination (pull out on your trailer) and when do you plan on doing that.??
Your trip has inspired me as well as many others. All of us are envious, except when you are cold and wet, but that is part of the deal.
Be safe.........Jack on HIGH TIDE
Thanks Nainu & Jack, I appreciate you letting me know your still following along with us. Jack we have to be back for a family thing in early August, so from here in Sitka we'l be working our way north to pull the boat back out of the water at Skagway sometime in the last two weeks of July & then the drive back to Wyoming with a planned stop in Yellowstone on the way.
6-28-12 & I mistakingly put this date on yesterday's writing too. No way to correct these kind of errors now.
We woke up this morning with continuing rain with the addition of fog. Weather report on the VHF calling for light winds & more rain with long term forecast calling for good wave conditions on the outer coast for the next four days or so. Hope that it is more accurate than today's turned out. Had a stiff north breeze making for an uncomfortable ride up Chatham Strait then with a only a 60 degree from north to north west turn had wind directly on the stern going up Peril Strait. Don't know how that worked out, but we were both glad it did. Stopped for lunch & a quick nap in Appleton Cove then putted along on one motor until just before the Sergius Narrows Rapids. There decided with the good weather forecast for the outer coast to pick up the speed & make for Sitka tonight instead of anchoring out partway. This way we should be able to get restocked & back out to the Chichagof Wilderness by Saturday. Made for a long days run & I think worth it in the long run.
Saw several whales on Peril Strait & a bear again by Whitestone Narrows. After not seeing hardly any bears the first month they sure have made up for it since.
Will post some more photos if I find the time here in Sitka towmarro.
94 miles today & 1776 total
Jay
6-28-12 & I mistakingly put this date on yesterday's writing too. No way to correct these kind of errors now.
We woke up this morning with continuing rain with the addition of fog. Weather report on the VHF calling for light winds & more rain with long term forecast calling for good wave conditions on the outer coast for the next four days or so. Hope that it is more accurate than today's turned out. Had a stiff north breeze making for an uncomfortable ride up Chatham Strait then with a only a 60 degree from north to north west turn had wind directly on the stern going up Peril Strait. Don't know how that worked out, but we were both glad it did. Stopped for lunch & a quick nap in Appleton Cove then putted along on one motor until just before the Sergius Narrows Rapids. There decided with the good weather forecast for the outer coast to pick up the speed & make for Sitka tonight instead of anchoring out partway. This way we should be able to get restocked & back out to the Chichagof Wilderness by Saturday. Made for a long days run & I think worth it in the long run.
Saw several whales on Peril Strait & a bear again by Whitestone Narrows. After not seeing hardly any bears the first month they sure have made up for it since.
Will post some more photos if I find the time here in Sitka towmarro.
94 miles today & 1776 total
Jay
Captains Cat
New member
Jay, there are a LOT of folks following both you and Retreiver!
Keep it up and stay safe.
Thanks.
Charlie
Keep it up and stay safe.
Thanks.
Charlie
OK Charlie, good to hear.
6-29-12
It rained hard off & on all last night & today here in Sitka with pretty much the same on the horizon for the next few days. Not much wind with it so the seas on the outer coast are not bad. Was planning on taking off to the Chichagof Wilderness tomarrow morning, but the fun is pretty limited in the Mokai in a hard cold rain & visibility not so good at anchorage, so with better weather ahead in the forecast, I think we'll stay here a day or two longer. All that & JoLee informs me the Grandkids & their parents who are now together in Cokeville, WY want to do some FaceTime or Skype with us during the next couple of days, so that too weighs heavy in the decision to stay.
Gas was down to $3.99 a gallon here today when we fueled, but I read on the news there was a big jump in oil prices, so it will be going back up. Even with a couple of higher speed runs in the last 510 miles we still averaged 5.7 mpg, which I think is not to bad.
Jay
6-29-12
It rained hard off & on all last night & today here in Sitka with pretty much the same on the horizon for the next few days. Not much wind with it so the seas on the outer coast are not bad. Was planning on taking off to the Chichagof Wilderness tomarrow morning, but the fun is pretty limited in the Mokai in a hard cold rain & visibility not so good at anchorage, so with better weather ahead in the forecast, I think we'll stay here a day or two longer. All that & JoLee informs me the Grandkids & their parents who are now together in Cokeville, WY want to do some FaceTime or Skype with us during the next couple of days, so that too weighs heavy in the decision to stay.
Gas was down to $3.99 a gallon here today when we fueled, but I read on the news there was a big jump in oil prices, so it will be going back up. Even with a couple of higher speed runs in the last 510 miles we still averaged 5.7 mpg, which I think is not to bad.
Jay
6-30-12
The last couple of days confirmed my opinion on non stoppable moisture condensation in the cabin & sleeping berth in these conditions. We have now had another three days of non stop rain & going into the fourth tonight. We have shore power connected (only $5 extra in Sitka) windows partially opened, a powered fan drawing air to the outside, a cabin fan moving air & a 1500 watt ceramic electric heater blowing hot dry air & the cabin is still dripping water on us where we are sitting tonight. Not complaining just describing how it can be in a CD 22 in certain weather conditions. The temperature is 48 degrees now, which is about 10 degrees warmer than it was in April in similar rainy periods when the condensation was unstoppable too.
Tuesday the rain should finally break & that now is when we plan to leave here for the outside coast to the north.
We'er getting our exercise by walking about in the rain. The cramped confines of the boat is harder on JoLee then me due to her not getting to shore as much as me when we are away from the harbors.
Jay
The last couple of days confirmed my opinion on non stoppable moisture condensation in the cabin & sleeping berth in these conditions. We have now had another three days of non stop rain & going into the fourth tonight. We have shore power connected (only $5 extra in Sitka) windows partially opened, a powered fan drawing air to the outside, a cabin fan moving air & a 1500 watt ceramic electric heater blowing hot dry air & the cabin is still dripping water on us where we are sitting tonight. Not complaining just describing how it can be in a CD 22 in certain weather conditions. The temperature is 48 degrees now, which is about 10 degrees warmer than it was in April in similar rainy periods when the condensation was unstoppable too.
Tuesday the rain should finally break & that now is when we plan to leave here for the outside coast to the north.
We'er getting our exercise by walking about in the rain. The cramped confines of the boat is harder on JoLee then me due to her not getting to shore as much as me when we are away from the harbors.
Jay
7-2-12
With semi blue sky & a 10 knot north breeze we just left the Sitka harbor & will be leaving SPOT tracks for the outside coast of the Chichagof Island Wilderness. The weather is supposed to improve, but won't hold my breath. Talked to the Sitka Harbor Master this morning & he saiid this years weather is the worst he or anyone else can remember. I'd register a complaint, but think, the line to long to get through, besides as the song goes "you'll never stop the rain by complaining"
Jay
With semi blue sky & a 10 knot north breeze we just left the Sitka harbor & will be leaving SPOT tracks for the outside coast of the Chichagof Island Wilderness. The weather is supposed to improve, but won't hold my breath. Talked to the Sitka Harbor Master this morning & he saiid this years weather is the worst he or anyone else can remember. I'd register a complaint, but think, the line to long to get through, besides as the song goes "you'll never stop the rain by complaining"
Jay
Wishing you sunny skies and dry travels, my friend. Living in the boat this summer, we are doing the "once a week the v-berth cushions get stood up and all the underneath storage areas get wiped down" dance. :wink:
We haven't had the "inside rain" that you two have had to deal with, unless Joan is boiling water for pasta... and then it's worth it. 8)
Take care, have fun,
Jim
We haven't had the "inside rain" that you two have had to deal with, unless Joan is boiling water for pasta... and then it's worth it. 8)
Take care, have fun,
Jim