5-14-12
One pm left Pelican in a pouring rain that had started the night before. Hopefully this storm will be followed by a clearing trend starting Wednesday. 7 PM rain turned to snow. Was planning on some time in the three sided shelter cabin here, but to cold outside the boat now for enjoyment. Maybe tomarow. 8miles today & 675 total.
5-15-12
Woke up to 33 degrees in the boat & close to 2 inches of snow on the dock & HunkyDory, all balanced by sunshine & a beautiful blue sky & then shortly there after by a whale going by the dock. Got a photo of it that I will post later.
With the sun on the boat & a fire in the stove of the shelter was able to dry everything out.
Spent the day alternating from reading by the stove in the shelter, to cruising in the Mokai to walking the beach & trail towards the abandoned mine. Talked on the VHF to a passing small commercial cruise boat which looked like & probably was one of the old wooden mine sweepers converted to a cruiser called the Sea Wolf. Asked them about outside conditions & they said just like was forecast, big swells with entrance to Lisianski all white rollers. That did make it easier to enjoy our time waiting here. They also said tomorrow is 9 feet & then to down to 6 feet with 20 knot winds Thursday, so that's now our target for departure from here.
By afternoon the clouds had again got the best of the sun & tonight the rain is pouring & wind blowing with the outside temperature near 40 degrees.
Saw another mink close by on the shore & was happy to see it not have any interest in the boat, also saw another whale while out on the Mokai. The whales always make me nervous when I'm close to them in the Mokai & they disappear.
5-16-12
Started the day with a good breakfast & coffee in the shelter by the wood stove, then prepared boat for the open seas. Thought we would compare yesterday's weather report to actual conditions & if doable, we planned on going on to Porcupine or Zhilo Cove in Islas Bay which is on Chichagof Island about 6 miles down the coast through a rocky maze from Lisianski Strait. Just past the very narrow channel east of Ester Island as the waters really started to roughen I needed to power up & all I got was prop ventilation with the motor rpm jumping up, but no forward speed increase. We could still move in the low RPM range & being in a spot where diagnosing the problem could be extremely hazardous I reversed the route as smooth as possible & made slowly for calm water. Found kelp rapped in both props, but easy to remove, so when finished headed back out again. Couldn't raise a weather channel on the VHF until we were about half way to Islas Bay & that's when we found today's conditions were what the forecast predicted 9 feet & the wind 25 knots. In 2007 going through this same stretch the swells were bigger, but not near as rough. Other than during the trouble with props the Hunkydory performed flawlessly in these conditions & neither of us ever felt we were struggling to make our destination.
Where we are now anchored in Porcupine Bay, the VHF weather is coming in clear & for the next two days the wind is dropping to 10 to 15 & 5 foot seas. Sounds good to me as I'm already maxed on adrenaline.
Sure feels good to be on the go again after 12 days waiting in the Pelican area on outside weather.
28 miles today & 703 total.
5-17-12
Left Porcupine Bay for Mirror Harbor & White Sulfur Hot Springs. The 5 foot or so seas were very rough & the channel into the West Arm of Mirror Harbor very intricate with a maze of rocks & kelp to thread through.
After anchoring went for a Mokai ride exploring the sloughs, then back to the Hunkydory for a good breakfast followed by going to shore & a mile walk through the rain forest to the Hot Springs. Jo-Lee & I spent the whole afternoon soaking in the outside pool & enjoying one of the best views anywhere anytime. With the view came the sounds of waves breaking on the outer reef, light wind in the trees, varies bird calls & even the chatter of a little red squirrel. The hot pools a perfect temperature to counter the 50 degree cloudy, but rainless air.
At the hot springs there is a inside & outside hot pool with a forest service cabin & fire-pit close by. The cabin can only be accessed by kayak or foot from a boat & is in the Yacobi-Chichagof wilderness area. With reservations through the forest service this cabin can be used by visitors, though fortunately for us, we had it & the hot springs all to ourselves today. The Douglass cruising book "Exploring Southeast Alaska", describes it "Mirror harbor, one of the most isolated & intricate places imaginable", & we certainly agree with their assessment.
Back to the boat in the early evening at low tide, so was able to mark a good route with the Mokai & gps tracks through both harbor arms & a for sure safe route to exit the harbor in the morning at the higher end of the tide. We were here last in 2007 & must say we enjoyed our stay here even more than last time. If there was any downside at all it was not seeing any bears. Saw many here in 2007, but did not really want to meet up with any on the trail to the Hot Springs, so maybe no bears was a good thing. Did see from the Mokai another mink, a river otter eating a fish & many seals.
Days like this more than make up for the cold rainy days stuck waiting for weather to change.
8 miles today & 711 total
5-18-19
Writing this on the morning of the 19th. Way to tired to write after anchoring here in Sister Bay just as dark was closing in after a very eventful at times even stressful in a good way, day.
Started the day with a Mokia ride again in & about the Mirror Harbor complex of sloughs. No hurry due to waiting for a 6 foot plus tide to enter Dry Pass off the open ocean with a four mile run in between it & Mirror Harbor. Seas only 4 feet, so it was a very smooth crossing. Only surprise being a Grey Whale rising up just off our starboard side going the same speed as us, which was displacement on one motor. Was close enough to startle us both & a wonderful sight to see.
Dry Pass is just as the name implies dry when the tide is out & still very shallow when it's in with rocks to avoid in the entrance, combined with wave surge & a very narrow opening making it a real challenge. Last time we passed through it was in 2007 at 4:30 AM with light fog into 6 feet seas. It was actually a little easier to do then due to a higher tide & going into the waves instead of riding them in. Adding to the challenge is the kelp in the entrance & both kelp & eel grass in the fairway confusing the depth sounder. Douglass's Cruise Book has a couple pages of advice on its transit & states "it creates an adrenaline rush that explorers live for" & I'll not argue with that.
Upon reaching the inner calm narrow channels of this remote Chichagof Island Wilderness Area we relaxed & enjoyed it's beauty & wildlife consisting mainly of seals & sea otters on our slow speed route to Black Bay. There we saw a bear just before entering the bay & another wandering around the meadows at its head. Before taking the Mokai around the bay & up the Black River saw & listened to a avalanche of snow come off the high mountain above the bay. Thought the loud noise at first was another boat in the bay, somewhere I couldn't see, but then noticed the cloud of snow coming down high on the
mountain side. I have seen avalanches on film, but like most of the sights we see on this adventure, they are much more impressive experienced in real life.
From Black Bay we cruised down the intricate water ways with our destination for the night being Sister Lake. To enter Sister Lake which is in reality salt water a boat has to traverse three separate narrow reversing tide water channels with the last one entering Sister Lake very narrow & poorly charted. In past years made one run through when the water wasn't slack & that was enough. The Douglass Cruise Book on this area doesn't say much more than "Lake Anna & Sister Lake are remote & poorly surveyed. The passage joining Lake Anna to Sister Lake has extremely dangerous currents on a ebb tide & at this time have no local knowledge to add to this intriguing area". Jolee & I, after exploring it fully on three different years do now have the local knowledge & can say its very near the top on our list of favorite places in Southeast Alaska.
On the way into Sister Lake while waiting for the slack tide, explored Klag Bay, which at the head is the ruins of one of the biggest gold mines in Alaska. It was in operation from 1905 to the late 30's & it employed many people who had a village there. Even had three water powered power plants with the one located on Sister Lake being bigger than the Pelican Hydroelectric plant now. You can still see on the side of the mountain where the ore cars exited & dumped into large piles & the remains of wharfs, concrete buildings, big machinery, & other buildings. This is all now Congress declared wilderness & I love it, but many of the people living in the Pelican area lament the no use of natural resources to create jobs in this area as their cannery closed & the town slowly dies. I can appreciate their views too. In the month we have now been on the water here, we have seen only one other cruise boat & then now off this old mine site we find anchored a 100 plus foot mini commercial cruise ship with its load of wealthy tourist enjoying the view & out about on the ships kayaks. Only the wealthy or someone on a very small boat like us willing to take the not insignificant risk to get here can now enjoy the beauty & uniqueness that is here. Much to compare & mull over & my mind is still doing just that, even as I enjoy Sister Lake here in the present.
40 miles today & 751 total.
5-19-12
All day in Sister Lake. Moved to the head of the East end of the lake for the afternoon & nights anchorage. Very enjoyable cruising around the lake on the Mokai. Also used it to refill the boat water tank. Found a good steam coming directly from the snow & with using a 2.5 gal collapsible bucket didn't even have to get out of the Mokai to pour in the fill hole. JoLee very happy not having to conserve water.
Anchored in, what for us is very deep water, 90 feet, due to a sharp drop off from the head of the bay with the best view. Put out 360 feet of line & even with the strong winds forecast should have no problems holding with the sticky clam shell mud bottom.
A very enjoyable day except for it being my Dads birthday. He would have been 88 this year if not for the cancer finally winning the battle last July. No one else enjoyed more watching video, seeing photos & listening to accounts of our adventures. My love of adventure came foremost from him & not being able to share this adventure with him, brings deep sadness even here today.
5 miles today & 756 total
5-20-12
The winds blew & the anchor held. Used the stainless steel slip ring & round float to pull the anchor & it worked just like advertised. Without a windless it sure took the work out of hoisting up the 22 pound anchor & 30 feet of chain by hand 90 feet.
This morning we caught the tide right for exit of Sister Lake & then through the northern more difficult part of Elbow Passage, which we haven't passed before today. In the narrowest part of the passage all three of my gps's were showing me to be in different places none of which were correct. Normally when the gps is off they all show being off in the same place. This time they were erratic, maybe caused by the sunspots effect, but one thing for sure it shows they can be used for reference, but situational awareness must be foremost. From observing the charts, I new about where the boat should be from the different hazards, so the gps inaccuracy was really not a problem. In the dark or fog it would have been.
It's a little after 7PM & we'er now anchored in the southern most part of Ford Arm, Khaz Bay in just the opposite of last night, only 8 feet of water, which will set the boat on the bottom when the tide is out tomorrow morning at 8 AM. Bottom is level with clamshell & mud & the motors & trip tabs are up. It's still windy & raining again with the next couple days calling for 25 knots with more rain. Found the whole bottom of the sleeping birth mattress soaking wet from the daily condensation that even dry heat doesn't prevent in weather like this. Pulled the top foam pad, sleeping bag & blankets onto the cabin floor & then used the boat fenders & buddy heater to prop up the sunbrella covered mattress, which was the one soaked up, so the ceramic heater could be placed under it. Fired up the generator & two of its gas tanks full later all was dry. Thanks again, Harvey for the ceramic heater suggestion & on one of these kind of future cruises there will always be room for it.
The bear viewing has improved greatly. Saw five around Sister Lake & so far another five here in Ford Arm.
18 miles today & 774 total
5-21-12
Got to thinking about the bottom maybe having rocks mixed in the the clam shells, decided to set the alarm early enough to check it before the boat settled. Good thing I did because there was many fist sized rocks with very little mud, so pulled anchor & left for the head of Slocum Arm, Khaz Bay earlier than planned. Anchored in Hidden Bay & proceeded to have a fantastic bear watching day. Headed out on the Mokai & saw three three at the very head, then on the return a large male just along the shore. He didn't spook, so was able to video & take photos of him from the Mokai safely, while at times only 25 yds away. From there went about a mile to Flat Arm & saw another big bear & while there, JoLee called on the radio saying there was a bear on the shore by the boat. Slipped back there & was able to see & take photos before it moved on. Due to liking the view better at Flat Arm decided to anchor there for the night. Three more bears came by us on the shore line there. One a large bear by itself & the other two, a sow & cub. Very few places anywhere, that bears can be seen in these numbers, that isn't around a stream & salmon run.
Cloudy, but temperature made it all the way up to 58 degrees today, where it has been in the low to mid 40's. A very welcome change even with the showers & strong wind gust. Before leaving home I'd been following the weather here on the Internet & it had been great the first two weeks of April & even the first week after we launched in Skagway. Listened on the VHF radio to two fisherman talking yesterday & they were saying how the early April good weather had them getting there boats primed to head north out of Sitka then being ready to go, it had held them back since the 1st of May. Hope the warmer weather holds, it sure makes for a dryer boat inside & more pleasurable Mokai cruises.
17 miles today & 791 total
5-22-12
Mid morning, moved to Waterfall Cove for new anchorage & prepared for Mokai run down Slocum Arm & up Falcon Arm of Khaz Bay, an approximately 12 mile round trip. Weather mostly sunny & with some showers & about 55 degrees, just right. Near the head of Falcon Arm got in close to a sow bear with three cubs, safely on the Mokai & took some video & photos while enjoying their interaction. Of course the Moma not all that pleased with my presence. About 3 miles from the Hunkydory on my way back smelled gasoline & motor started running rough. Pulled the cover & could see fuel leaking , but not from where. Couldn't reach JoLee on the VHF radio with the mountain between us & not wanting to worry her over being gone much longer than planned, decided to not try & fix the problem where I was due to thinking I probably couldn't & it would just take extra time trying, so I commenced to learn much more than desired about paddling a motorized kayak into the the wind & tide. Perhaps two hours later with sore hands & tired shoulders was back to the Hunkydory. There found leak caused by a failed spring clamp on the fuel line connection to the carburetor, so easy fix with spare.
While paddling back on the Mokai saw what I thought was the 2nd cruise boat we have seen on the entire trip, so far, pass out of Piehle Passage & up Slocum Arm, while I was just exiting Falcon Arm. It was a nice looking 40 foot trawler towing a larger than usual dingy. Toward evening paddled the Mokai out to check the south side of Waterfall Cove where the river exits & there are meadows with sedge grass for bears. There, I saw the dingy with three men from the trawler on the shore. From talking to them found they were bear hunters & a guide from Sitka. After a good chat about bears left them there sitting on a large rock. Just before dark from the HunkyDory I noticed a large bear come out of the foliage about 200 yds down the shore in the opposite direction of the meadows & where the hunters were looking. I got back into the Mokai & slowly paddled it in the direction of the bear hunters to see what might happen. The bear went back into the trees & me back to the Hunydory. The hunters never saw the bear & by this time it was dark. I watched the hunters sitting on the rock until it was to dark to see them & later never heard the boat leave, so think they spent the night on that rock in the rain to get the advantage on the bears in the morning. It doesn't get black dark until about 11pm & daylight until 3:30am, so their wait was about 4.5 hours. Have now seen two bear hunting boats & one mini cruise ship, but no pleasure cruisers in the 8 days we have been in the Chichagof Wilderness Area & still only one pleasure cruise boat since leaving Skagway 36 days ago.
The sedge grass has in the last few days finally grown enough to attract the bears. For those interested in bear viewing, the next 30 days & later when the fish start running is I think, the best times to see them.
11 miles today & 802 total
5-23-12
We are now settled in for the night, anchored in Elf Cove on Ford Arm of of Khaz Bay. Elf Cove is a small beautiful cove with a look that would no doubt attract Elf's, at least in my imagination & the person who named it. This thick rain forest does have a variety of trees, some huge & other vegetation all weather shaped into something that would be recognizable in fantasy & science fiction movies & books with the real thing easy to see how it has caught the imagination of the authors.
Rained all day with patches of fog & low drifting clouds with a 15 knot wind in the open areas & a high of 53 degrees. Good weather forecast for tomorrow then another storm with high winds & big waves off the coast, so tonight's our last night in the Chichagof Wilderness for now. Plan on heading out Piehle Passage early in the morning then the 50 miles down the coast to Sitka. Have had a wonderful exciting & even strangely restful time anchored out & again exploring this area, while enjoying the sights & wildlife.
20 miles today & 822 total
