Solar system install

pcg":1i4k6ek1 said:
Micahbigsur@msn.com":1i4k6ek1 said:
... with Suzukis I can't use 0 maintenance glass mat batterys...
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I'm curious. Why is that so?
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Suzuki 150 to 250 hp require : 12 Volt 100 AH or over; CCA/SAE670 Amperes or over, RC/SAE 190 mins or over.

Also on the web site state: "Caution: Avoid using deep cycle battery, maintenance-free battery, lithium battery or gel cell battery." (Some manuals say "not compatible with charging systems".

Bahama has the same "restriction".

On the other hand, I have used AGM and I know a number of others who have used AGM (of the appropriate specs) on Suzuki and Yamaha.

If you have an electrical warrantee issue, then Suzuki or Yamaha might deny the claim.

Yes, I know that the quote does not specifically say "AGM"--but an AGM is under the category of "Maintenance free" batteries.

I personally don't have a problem running AGM on my Suzuki outboard. Deka puts their AGM in the recommended column for Suzuki, but not for Yamaha.l.
 
I have always used AGM's on my previous boats, after reading that my Suzuki puts out up to 15 volts and should not use maintenance free or AGM's I looked at a lot of forums and decided not to take a chance though others have. If I am in the middle of nowhere in Mexico I can't afford a failure. Same with putting the semi-rigid panel on the bimini I decided it would be safer to mount it on an aluminum sheet extended back from the arch above the bimini. And then space the panel above the aluminum sheet to prevent overheating.
I am used to diesel boats, I may be a bit paranoid of gas power, so I do my mods in the safest way I know possible. I rarely have rarely experienced systems failure over the years and so far being over cautious has paid off.
 
I have always used AGM's on my previous boats, after reading that my Suzuki puts out up to 15 volts and should not use maintenance free or AGM's I looked at a lot of forums and decided not to take a chance though others have. If I am in the middle of nowhere in Mexico I can't afford a failure. Same with putting the semi-rigid panel on the bimini I decided it would be safer to mount it on an aluminum sheet extended back from the arch above the bimini. And then space the panel above the aluminum sheet to prevent overheating.
I am used to diesel boats, I may be a bit paranoid of gas power, so I do my mods in the safest way I know possible. I rarely have rarely experienced systems failure over the years and so far being over cautious has paid off.
 
Analysis of the system after one trip:

1. If the sun is full, like Sunday, yesterday & today, the system will not only maintain the batteries with the fridge on, it will charge both batteries too! We had about 80% SOC per our Balmar Smartgauge when we awoke on Sunday. Panel was on top of the dinghy, which was on the roof. Panel output in the 15-18 v range with +/- 5 amps nearly all day (after 1000 hours and until about 1800). By mid-afternoon the batteries were at 100%! Amperage dropped down to under 1 amp then. We also used it to charge cell phones, Ipad, Kindles etc. The controller has a USB port.

Conversely, if it's not totally sunny the system just maintained the SOC. We awoke one day with 73% SOC and clouds and intermittent sun. The system maintained the 73% all day, again with the fridge on all day. Still charged the electronic hand-held devices too.

2.The idea of holding the panel on the Bimini via strong magnets was an utter failure. Too much flapping is possible. I ended up either putting it on the roof or on the dinghy on the roof, and securing it via small bungee cords. We motored with it up there, but our top speed was ~12 knots.

3. The idea of storing it under the V-berth was also a failure. It is just tool long to fit, due to the curves. I ended up standing it up in the head, under the rear curtain panel when not in use; thanks to whomever mentioned that earlier in the thread. Works fine and shower water is not going to hurt it. Easier than putting it under the V berth foam too!

4. The controller also draws power from the batteries when there is no sun, like at night. Make sense, although it's yet another overnight power draw I had not considered. I simply pulled the fuse at the battery after dark and put it back in after sun up. I am going to add an "on/off" switch next to the unit to make is easier and less of a PIA.

So, my UN-scientfic, anecdotal analysis: for longer trips or longer stays between travel, I am happy with the system. It either maintains or charges with our fridge (the pig) on. I'm still kicking around better ways/locations to mount it. Ideally, some way to put it up on day one of a trip and take it down on the last day. We had to move it every time we wanted to put the dinghy in the water. Again, not the end of the world, but just another step and another chance for something no bueno to occur.
 
localboy, glad to hear that your 100 watt flexible panel is working out. We haven't tried ours yet but will do so next month in the Princess Louisa Inlet BC. Our fridge is also the main draw that we contend with while on the hook. Nice to know what to expect! We will also attach it via a thin line to the top of the roof or dinghy. We installed a controller as you suggested just to be safe. Thanks. Gary and Colleen.
 
Good to hear that the panel worked for you. As for a better place to locate it, I see you have an arch, it is very easy to add an aluminum angle, removable extension out back over your bimmini from it. Check out the photos of ours in our photo album.
 
Sounds like some good numbers. One factor different from the experience of Pat Anderson (and others) at Lake Powell, is that the ambient temperature is considerably higher (maybe almost twice? :) )

I am surprised that there is not a diode in your controller which prevents back feed during the evening. The controller I had on my RV had such a diode and there was no back feed.

Thanks
 
One factor different from the experience of Pat Anderson (and others) at Lake Powell, is that the ambient temperature is considerably higher...
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I would agree. The temps the entire trip were never above the mid-70s; some days cooler. Fridge was set on either 1, 2 or 3 (out of 5) depending on daytime temps. Enough to keep the food cold but not frozen.

I am surprised that there is not a diode in your controller which prevents back feed during the evening. The controller I had on my RV had such a diode and there was no back feed...I believe they all have the anti back-feed diode, any draw must be coming from the display and or indicator lights which should be minimal
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I suspect you both are correct. I have sent Renogy an email inquiring about this and the power draw to maintain the controller when no power is available from the panel(s). I will post their response.
 
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