SO WHAT DID YOU DO WITH OR ON YOUR C-DORY TODAY??
- Thread starter TyBoo
- Start date
clayhubler
Member
Yep, towing all the way and staying for a month. The whole family is getting scuba certified. I've really been feeling the pressure trying to get this project wrapped up. Really should have waited until after this trip but when I started I did not realize what I was getting into. I remember thinking I would have it done by Christmas! I had to take some time off work to get this finished. Well, finished enough...
gulfcoast john
New member
We spent a full day having conversations with the trailer repair shop in Vernon, KY about how difficult it is to get trailer parts and repairs done during the 4th of July Holiday week while en route to the Finger Lakes/Western Erie Canal adventure.
Day 1 we towed 500 miles with tire pressures of 86-88 and temps of 91. Day 2 at 300 miles, one sensor fell offline, so the monitor starts emitting a warning beep every minute when that sensor fails to report.
Then another sensor goes offline for annoying beeps every 30 seconds. We hooked up the six foot long extension antenna for more range, but no change. I had kept these sensors ‘on’ (whenever they are pressurized) for a full 2 weeks to ensure the 5 year batteries were good (however, the monitor was IN the boat, closer to the sensors). I’d shot extra grease in the zerks and bought 5 brand new Goodyear Endurance tires manufactured 9 weeks earlier (one Boat Unit) to replace a 39 month old set. We agreed we’d remove all the sensors and check the hubs via IR thermometer and pressures at each 120 mile, 2 hour stop at 60MPH.
Later, an RV driver honked and motioned us to pull over. Glancing out the right hand mirror I saw trailing smoke, never a good sign. We slowed, hit the hazard blinkers and chose to take the next exit about ½ mile away, beside a gas station. The smoking hub was at 324 degrees, the hub appeared to be resting on the spindle with the tire way off from being vertical, and the bearings had gone to trailer wheel bearing Heaven (or if they were ‘bad’ bearings, perhaps to that Other Place). The manager cheerfully told us about a family of four who were recently killed on the shoulder nearby with a disabled boat trailer when their rig was hit by an errant semi.
We called the nearest trailer repair shop and the tech stopped by after finishing up a prior job in less than an hour. He removed the tire and we slowly moved to his shop 3 miles away through some beautiful Kentucky countryside. He did some machining on the spindle and rotor, used our spare hub and got some local parts and we were good to go after one full day of repairs.
We hope to launch at Pirates Cove Marina on the Erie Canal just before the Oswego Canal tomorrow.
Wish us luck!
John
Day 1 we towed 500 miles with tire pressures of 86-88 and temps of 91. Day 2 at 300 miles, one sensor fell offline, so the monitor starts emitting a warning beep every minute when that sensor fails to report.
Then another sensor goes offline for annoying beeps every 30 seconds. We hooked up the six foot long extension antenna for more range, but no change. I had kept these sensors ‘on’ (whenever they are pressurized) for a full 2 weeks to ensure the 5 year batteries were good (however, the monitor was IN the boat, closer to the sensors). I’d shot extra grease in the zerks and bought 5 brand new Goodyear Endurance tires manufactured 9 weeks earlier (one Boat Unit) to replace a 39 month old set. We agreed we’d remove all the sensors and check the hubs via IR thermometer and pressures at each 120 mile, 2 hour stop at 60MPH.
Later, an RV driver honked and motioned us to pull over. Glancing out the right hand mirror I saw trailing smoke, never a good sign. We slowed, hit the hazard blinkers and chose to take the next exit about ½ mile away, beside a gas station. The smoking hub was at 324 degrees, the hub appeared to be resting on the spindle with the tire way off from being vertical, and the bearings had gone to trailer wheel bearing Heaven (or if they were ‘bad’ bearings, perhaps to that Other Place). The manager cheerfully told us about a family of four who were recently killed on the shoulder nearby with a disabled boat trailer when their rig was hit by an errant semi.
We called the nearest trailer repair shop and the tech stopped by after finishing up a prior job in less than an hour. He removed the tire and we slowly moved to his shop 3 miles away through some beautiful Kentucky countryside. He did some machining on the spindle and rotor, used our spare hub and got some local parts and we were good to go after one full day of repairs.
We hope to launch at Pirates Cove Marina on the Erie Canal just before the Oswego Canal tomorrow.
Wish us luck!
John
colbysmith
Active member
John, I'm kind of curious if you know what happened or caused the issue? I've been very fortunate in my travels, but I can remember a time when I was quite a little kid, where we were traveling cross country, and my dad's van smoked a wheel bearing. I've always repacked my big trailer bearings annually when greased. However, going the way of Oil Bath, I only pull the hubs when I need to change oil seals or brakes. Or if the oil shows signs of water intrusion. (Which means a seal change...) One of the nice things about oil bath is being able to see the oil's condition through the clear cap. When was the last time you performed maintenance on the hubs? Even with my brand new trailer, after only submerging it a few times, when I went to change out the grease to oil bath, I noticed moisture in the grease. Probably why Loadrite suggests adding more grease at the spindle zert each and every time you submerge the trailer. Which seems a bit rediculous to me with constant use. Anyway, glad you were able to get it fixed and it wasn't any worse with a fire! Colby
Gland you got under way agina. I always carry extra bearings and seals, plus a hand grease gunn, and tools with materials to repack the bearings en route. I had a similar occurrence. after a long down grade and the surge brakes dragging.
It sounds as if there was some very specific issue with that set of bearings. Were you taking bearing temps every few hours with an I R thermometer?
When it goes bad, it can fail rapidly.
Also what grease were you using?
It sounds as if there was some very specific issue with that set of bearings. Were you taking bearing temps every few hours with an I R thermometer?
When it goes bad, it can fail rapidly.
Also what grease were you using?
gulfcoast john
New member
Harvey,
The shop owner thought the tire was OK (and was still supporting trailer some weight), but I had him change it to the spare and use the brand new spare. My impression is that many trailer boat experts advise removing, inspecting and repacking bearings yearly. The last major trailer repairs and maintenance ($3,600) including bearings brakes and new EOH pump was Dec 2018.
Colby, I try to grease up after each dunking, but not always including the launch at Pirates Cove, where we were blocking the gas dock. I had oil baths on the last trailer, and they were ALWAYS milky. Also didn’t like the idea of losing oil if a cap cracked... grease stays in place.I
Bob,
When I last called Float-On they recommended Lucas sticky Red #2, though the greenish grey stuff is in there it’s getting gradually replaced. I need to learn how to remove/repack bearings!
Thanks all for the comments,
John
The shop owner thought the tire was OK (and was still supporting trailer some weight), but I had him change it to the spare and use the brand new spare. My impression is that many trailer boat experts advise removing, inspecting and repacking bearings yearly. The last major trailer repairs and maintenance ($3,600) including bearings brakes and new EOH pump was Dec 2018.
Colby, I try to grease up after each dunking, but not always including the launch at Pirates Cove, where we were blocking the gas dock. I had oil baths on the last trailer, and they were ALWAYS milky. Also didn’t like the idea of losing oil if a cap cracked... grease stays in place.I
Bob,
When I last called Float-On they recommended Lucas sticky Red #2, though the greenish grey stuff is in there it’s getting gradually replaced. I need to learn how to remove/repack bearings!
Thanks all for the comments,
John
colbysmith
Active member
Basically a piece of cake John. Messy, but easily done in a few hours. I'd highly suggest you pull the hubs and check the grease and bearings on the other wheels as soon as possible. Another one of our C-Brats suffered a second bearing failure several hundred miles after the first one on a different wheel. Lots of youtube videos out there showing how to check and repack wheel bearings. Regarding the oil bath systems, if you are getting water in the oil, it's most likely from having the wrong, or a damaged, wheel seal. A pitted or corroded spindle can damage the wheel seal, or not being careful slipping the hub on the spindle can damage the seal as well. If I were to go back to grease, I would repack the bearings annually or more often. Colby
I rebuilt my trailer seals, bearings and new brake calipers early this year. I have tried a number of different greases, including red and tacky. I have settled on a synthetic, which is both heat and water tolerant.
Mixing greases is often a problem. They don't mix well. Any water or corrosion on bearing surfaces are issues.
Another issue is setting the axle nut properly. The general recommendation is to torque them to 10 to 25 ft/# and then back off so the wheel spins freely. Best to do all of this with the wheel off the ground. "Just finger tight" is too loose.
Definitely one needs to be sure that there is no water in the bearings after launching...I realize that this is a real pain... As noted above, I carry extra bearings, seals, grease and grease gun in the trailer kit. Also 2 jacks, and jack stands, just in case. I also carry a Viaire 400 12 volt air compressor, with trailer/RV accessories. This is a serious compressor; off roaders use them to air up after lowering tire pressure when running on sand,
There are battery powered and air powered grease guns. There are also well made grease guns, and some that are a piece of junk. A locking coupler also helps in the best process without wasting grease.
Mixing greases is often a problem. They don't mix well. Any water or corrosion on bearing surfaces are issues.
Another issue is setting the axle nut properly. The general recommendation is to torque them to 10 to 25 ft/# and then back off so the wheel spins freely. Best to do all of this with the wheel off the ground. "Just finger tight" is too loose.
Definitely one needs to be sure that there is no water in the bearings after launching...I realize that this is a real pain... As noted above, I carry extra bearings, seals, grease and grease gun in the trailer kit. Also 2 jacks, and jack stands, just in case. I also carry a Viaire 400 12 volt air compressor, with trailer/RV accessories. This is a serious compressor; off roaders use them to air up after lowering tire pressure when running on sand,
There are battery powered and air powered grease guns. There are also well made grease guns, and some that are a piece of junk. A locking coupler also helps in the best process without wasting grease.
colbysmith
Active member
I've always torqued my bearing nuts down pretty tight with a channellock pliers while turning the hub. Then without touching the hub, I back off the bearing nut, and then just use my fingers to tighten it back up as tight as I can. Then loosen it just enough to get the cotter key or tang in, if you must. Every publication seems to have a little different way of doing it, but this was how I was taught early on. Once I get the wheel back on, I'll try pushing and pulling or twisting on the wheel to see if there is any free play. If none, perfect. If some, it should be very minimal. I've done this with all my trailers, and haven't had any problems with all my travels. Colby
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zC-VFm27Vs
https://www.championtrailers.com/pre-loading-trailer-wheel-bearings/
That bearing story sucks. Glad it wasn't worse and you are back on the road. I'm going to purchase an inexpensive TPMS. Issue is I have to then take them all of prior to launching. I'm pulling the boat to north Idaho next month for a family trip to Lake Pend Oreille, so hearing these stories is unsettling.
FYI I did a quick "how to" on re-packing bearings years ago here: http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.ph...ostorder=asc&highlight=pack+bearings&start=15
It's not difficult, just messy but can be accomplished with pretty basic tools. I use grease as well. Either Red-N-Tacky or the blue marine grease shown. Just don't mix greases. If you are just putting new grease in it has to be the same base as the one in the hub. For example a lithium based grease should never be mixed with an aluminum complex.
FYI I did a quick "how to" on re-packing bearings years ago here: http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.ph...ostorder=asc&highlight=pack+bearings&start=15
It's not difficult, just messy but can be accomplished with pretty basic tools. I use grease as well. Either Red-N-Tacky or the blue marine grease shown. Just don't mix greases. If you are just putting new grease in it has to be the same base as the one in the hub. For example a lithium based grease should never be mixed with an aluminum complex.
Got towed home! Went on a nice trip across the Potomac to have lunch with a friend. Beautiful day, totally smooth water on the way over. 10 kts of wind and choppy on the way home and engine just dies. No sputtering or coughing, just like I switched it off. Checked all I could and then called for a tow. At least we have a great volunteer rescue service around here (although I'm sure they won't let me forget it for a while!).
Pacificcoast101
Member
I ran over some polypro line yesterday. It pulled the pitot tube from my port motor. Although I have a paddlewheel transducer and GPS and don't need a third speedometer, I'll try to replace the tube onto the nipple without hauling the boat out and pulling the lower unit. If I can't reconnect the tube, I'll just plug the hole.
Pacificcoast101
Member
I got lucky. I was able to find the nipple with the end of the hose and twist it on. I connected the other end and it looks fine. I'll try it out in the morning.
Just returned from a family visit to north Idaho, where my son and his family now live. Spent one day on Lake Pend Oreille. Beautiful lake in the summer. Glacial water but plenty warm enough to swim in and the lake is huge. Much warmer than Lake Stevens where I live. Had no issues with the boat/trailer. Total miles towed ~1025. Longest tow of my life and over the pass at I-90. But more on that later.
Can’t say the same for my truck. Some time while passing thru Spokane on the homeward leg, the check engine light comes on. Truck seems to be running OK; nothing catastrophic and all temps/fluid pressures etc seem fine. Power/torque seems lagging though.
I pull off into Cheney and hit an auto parts store to borrow a scanner. PCM is throwing code PO478; “abnormally high voltage reading from exhaust system back pressure control valve circuit”. This will effect the turbo charger pressure and result in crappy performance and a drop in fuel economy. Moderate problem, but since I’m 300 plus miles from home...I have a decision to make. I decide to go for it.
Truck made it home. The long pull from the Columbia bridge in Vantage to the plateau, westbound, was the most difficult. Truck barely managed 60mph and the oil temps got up to 242F. My mileage tanked too. I’ll have numbers on that once I do the math, but it won’t be pretty. Snoqualmie Pass was actually much easier. I passed at least three boat/truck combos stuck though.
Truck is off to the shop as soon as I can get an appointment.
Can’t say the same for my truck. Some time while passing thru Spokane on the homeward leg, the check engine light comes on. Truck seems to be running OK; nothing catastrophic and all temps/fluid pressures etc seem fine. Power/torque seems lagging though.
I pull off into Cheney and hit an auto parts store to borrow a scanner. PCM is throwing code PO478; “abnormally high voltage reading from exhaust system back pressure control valve circuit”. This will effect the turbo charger pressure and result in crappy performance and a drop in fuel economy. Moderate problem, but since I’m 300 plus miles from home...I have a decision to make. I decide to go for it.
Truck made it home. The long pull from the Columbia bridge in Vantage to the plateau, westbound, was the most difficult. Truck barely managed 60mph and the oil temps got up to 242F. My mileage tanked too. I’ll have numbers on that once I do the math, but it won’t be pretty. Snoqualmie Pass was actually much easier. I passed at least three boat/truck combos stuck though.
Truck is off to the shop as soon as I can get an appointment.
Got repowered! Picked up my 22 Angler with a new Honda BF100 from Sportcraft Marina in PDX on Sat, was back in the water at the Des Moines Marina on Sunday. So much better than the dying 20 year old Honda BF90 I got with the boat. Just in time for the last couple months of summer 