SO WHAT DID YOU DO WITH OR ON YOUR C-DORY TODAY??

Desert Dory":10tfdljd said:
ssobol":10tfdljd said:
Looking at the angle of the support tube for the bow rail, do you think that the railing will support a heavy load on the ladder?

I can see attaching the ladder to the fore deck. Personally, I'm not so sure the railing can handle the load.
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You know, I hadn't really thought of that, and you may be right. I'm 180 and now I'm not sure if the rail would take my weight more than a few times.

I suppose that's why we post these things up here. Feedback is always good and I'm usually not as smart as I think I am. Thanks for having me think that through.


As much as I'd rather not do it, I guess I'll be drilling holes 😬
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Desert Dory,
I posted pictures of my ladder install I completed today in my album it worked out great !
 
Teufelshunde":1uytdvue said:
Desert Dory,
I posted pictures of my ladder install I completed today in my album it worked out great !
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Looks great!

I just ordered one of those telescoping ladders earlier today.
Should get here sometime next week then hopefully the hardware will be in stock locally.
 
We pulled the Sea Star hydraulic steering cylinder off the engine for rebuild. We noticed hydraulic fluid in the engine well, and loose steering when we arrived at Ed Stone for launch for the Hontoon gathering. We made it on the trip, with a minimal bleed and adding small amounts of fluid every other day as we rode on the river. But just the trip home and sitting a month, there was about 15* free play with the engine.
 
Eileen read about cruising the Pacific NW.

When another boat got 1.5 miles away, she raised the Yellow Quarantine flag.
We had it custom embroidered with 'COVID-19".
It works purty good!

It was 80 degrees, 76% humidity, and a UV index of 10.

Colby will likely gripe that the UV index should NEVER be over 2, the temp over 65, and that this beach is not nearly crowded enough.

They should come down and visit with their new C-25.

I still contend that they will be 'looking' for a TC255 within 36 months.

Time will tell!

Wishing the very best to everyone!

John and Eileen

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Hey John. With the way things are going with all our earlier planned summer trips, we might just think about coming down. You guys still virus free? :mrgreen: No time to even think about a tomcat now. I've been working 10 hours a day just stripping my expensive electronics from Midnight Flyer, and then cleaning it up to sale. Actually, it's all set to go. The last few days I've been spending the same amount of time cleaning and reinstalling stuff into C-Traveler and learning all the intricacies on it. I should be ready to put it back in the water anytime after this week.
 
Been very busy the past two weeks updating our new to us C-Traveler. (The old Kant Miss). So far I've removed the Radar Arch, VHF radio and antenna and GPSMAP 541 Chartplotter. I've installed two VHF Radios and their antennas, the AIS transceiver, the Radar, the GPSMAP 840 and 541, the AutoPilot (still have to plumb the hydraulics), a Vectron BVM, and a few other things. On the trailer I installed the EOH Actuator and Oil Bath body/cap kit. I wish I would have taken more photos along the way, but forgot to. Especially of the trailer hubs. Real greasy mess. The trailer has grease zerts at the end of the spindles, and they were just pumped full of grease until it pressed out the back seal. The disc brakes were a greasy mess! All cleaned up now with the oil bath hubs!
 
We are again hunkering down a bit today (Memorial Day Friday weekend) on Gulf Islands Nat’l Seashore Ft Pickens section (now officially open), Pensacola Bay side. 84 degrees and sunny, 79 degree water, you can walk or swim or boat or set up your beach chairs and umbrella, get inside dining or a beachfront hotel or marina.

The most crazy observant of you (I estimate 12-15) will note that now we have re-installed the Garmin HD-X24 radar dome onto the new SeaView mount. The poor dome was left dangling over the side of Cat O’ Mine bouncing down I-65, held on only by the power and ethernet connectors, on our return from our NY/Canada Triangle Loop historic canals adventure Jul-Sept 2019 for God knows how long. My 6 year old home-made PVC commode-mount radar mount had broken off at the base, and the attached dome, LED anchor light and loudhailer all went over the side of the roof while trailering.

We plopped the old HDX24 dome on the new mount this week, plugged in the stretched and over-stressed 12v power and net connectors and...SHAZAM! AMAZING, the radar worked like new!

Colby, nice price on your arch and the 15inch would clear our new Coleman 15K BTU rooftop AC. You’d like a 15K BTU AC!

Cheers!
John

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Mounted a set of these this week to see if they would quiet some of the vibration noise of our 90hp Suzuki and I have to say it made very little difference. A pretty easy job with a chain hoist and something to hang it from.

http://www.qwikmarine.com/mobile/Produc ... e=MDRNG-BP

Painting the inside of the engine cover with sound absorbing paint put a bigger dent in the noise than these mounts.

I will say it "feels" a little smoother, but the noise is no more than 10 percent lower. Thats what we get for running with the pilot house doors open all the time. Some day we will try closing them.

Greg
 
Colby, nice price on your arch and the 15inch would clear our new Coleman 15K BTU rooftop AC. You’d like a 15K BTU AC!
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John, if it's not sold by next March, I can bring it down for you to buy. I won't even charge you extra to haul it. :mrgreen: Colby
 
colbysmith":80ozlxte said:
John, if it's not sold by next March, I can bring it down for you to buy. I won't even charge you extra to haul it. :mrgreen: Colby
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That's a nice deal.
The one I bought for the tomcat was 3x the price and didn't come with rocket launchers.
 
Just talked to my neighbor who knows metals better than I. He said it is stainless steel! Still asking only $500. But I'm pretty sure shipping won't be too cheap. Colby
 
I am adding a 2nd AC outlet from my 1000w inverter to the port side of the boat near where the AC panel is (now I only have a single outlet which is on the starboard side near the galley; so any cord to a device on the port side has to cross the beam of the boat). I am also running a 120v cable from the AC panel to my relatively new 36 amp ProTournament charger mounted under the slashwell (now I have to pull the charger's power cord out of the lazarette and plug it directly into the generator).

I knew I would do this someday, so a couple of years ago when the boat was being re-powered with the Yamaha 200, and the shipyard guys were running engine control cables in that area anyway, I told them to run a couple of AC cables from near the AC power panel to the stern under the spashwell for future use of the charger and the inverter. Well, I presume the head guy I talked to told someone else to do this but failed to mention the intended use of these 2 cables. Anyway, they installed two 10-3 gauge cables which are normally used to carry 30 amps into the boat from shore power. They are huge! (I can't imagine what the installer thought I was going to use those for!) When the job was done, I noted that they had run the cables all right, but I never had a good look at the cables. Both devices use under 10 amps so 14 gauge would have been more than adequate.

Now I have a problem since those 10 gauge wires are a bitch to work with. Attaching them to 120v plugs, outlets, and the C-Dory AC panel is nearly impossible. I think I will get some 10 to 14 gauge step-down butt connectors before I go any further. Ah, the wonder of boats :lol: .
 
smckean (Tosca)":65nyj1ln said:
Now I have a problem since those 10 gauge wires are a bitch to work with. Attaching them to 120v plugs, outlets, and the C-Dory AC panel is nearly impossible. I think I will get some 10 to 14 gauge step-down butt connectors before I go any further. Ah, the wonder of boats :lol: .
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Ouch. All that wasted copper with an extra dollop of hassle to boot.
I still have to run cables to move and add to the house battery.
Not looking forward to it, or the price of massive wires.
 
Installed a generic winch remote to the windlass.
Works like a charm, even from 50' away and through a door.
No more walking back and forth to reach in the window.
No real instructions, so it was just dumb luck that I got the up and down wires correct the first time.
Snipped off the small ring terminals and attached the piggyback terminals so it can be quickly removed/replaced if any problems.

windlass_remote.jpg

winch_remote.jpg

piggyback_spade_terminal.jpg
 
JMacleod,

A word of warning on connectors. I did a bunch of research after I got some tips here (from thataway if I remember correctly). For boats at least, you want nylon connectors not vinyl. Vinyl are brittle and can break apart under vibration or strong crimps. Nylon are more expensive, and in my analysis worth it (but of course YMMV). The nylons come in 2 varieties: single crimp and double crimp (these take differing crimp tools too). The single crimp depend on internal heat shrink adhesive to provide strain relief adding cost to the connectors; whereas, the double crimp ones use the 2nd crimp for that. I decided I preferred the double crimp.

P.S. In most boat applications, the ring connectors (attach to screwed terminals) are recommended not the spade or forked ones. Also, my bet is that most folks will use more butt connectors than any other (that's been my experience), and many of these kits don't include those. I note the photo you included of connectors are for piggy back quick disconnect spades....I can't imagine what one would use those for on a boat.
 
smckean (Tosca)":1d9ekzac said:
JMacleod,

A word of warning on connectors. I did a bunch of research after I got some tips here (from thataway if I remember correctly). For boats at least, you want nylon connectors not vinyl. Vinyl are brittle and can break apart under vibration or strong crimps. Nylon are more expensive, and in my analysis worth it (but of course YMMV). The nylons come in 2 varieties: single crimp and double crimp (these take differing crimp tools too). The single crimp depend on internal heat shrink adhesive to provide strain relief adding cost to the connectors; whereas, the double crimp ones use the 2nd crimp for that. I decided I preferred the double crimp.

P.S. In most boat applications, the ring connectors (attach to screwed terminals) are recommended not the spade or forked ones. Also, my bet is that most folks will use more butt connectors than any other (that's been my experience), and many of these kits don't include those. I note the photo you included of connectors are for piggy back quick disconnect spades....I can't imagine what one would use those for on a boat.
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Thanks for the heads-up.
I'd originally bought several sets of heat-shrink connectors and terminals to use with the Anchor crimping tool, but I started finding these spade terminals already in use in more than one location around the boat.

Either factory or dealer, depending on whoever was originally responsible for installing the cabin lights and windlass.

I found and bought some Anchor marine spade disconnects that match the factory/dealer ones, but their piggyback adapter isn't insulated.

This isn't the first bit of "unconventional" wiring I've come across.
Wiring from the alt and charger not properly routed to the batteries, and wrong ABYC color wire for the cabin lights come to mind.
I have a feeling I'll be buying a lot more wiring and connectors before I'm done in my boat-learning.
 
I Got to share a bit of the C-Dory experience with some interested folks. They came to visit on the SleepyC, and we had a nice time to chat, share, laugh and enjoy C-Dory speak. Kathy and Kevin is was great to get to meet and visit for a while. Best to you in your search.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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Watched a couple of YouTube videos on whipping rope ends. I call it going to "YouTube University". Whipped my dock lines and an anchor snubber along with making a nice splice. I remember my grandfather, a Danish merchant marine, teaching me how to splice as young boy, but it was nice to relearn the skills!
 
With the fridge, 6hp kicker, and batteries, and captain all on the stbd side of the boat, the list became Titanic like. So I moved both batteries to the port locker. That leveled things out a bit.
 
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