Sliding Window Pane Replacement - Help!

T

Tortuga

New member
I've managed to crack my port side sliding window. Don't ask how. The boat is a 1994 22' Cruiser in generally good condition -- but the sliders do stick as the 20+ years of crud has accumulated. I'm assuming I can dismantle the window by removing the screws in the frame. But, I suspect there are surprises waiting for me.

Has anyone done this, and if so, how much pain am I in for? At best, I'd like to remove the sliding pane, have a local shop cut me a replacement, and reinstall with new fuzzy trim.

And counsel you might have would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Matt
Ventura
 
Tortuga":1oyxawyw said:
I've managed to crack my port side sliding window. Don't ask how. The boat is a 1994 22' Cruiser in generally good condition -- but the sliders do stick as the 20+ years of crud has accumulated. I'm assuming I can dismantle the window by removing the screws in the frame. But, I suspect there are surprises waiting for me.

Has anyone done this, and if so, how much pain am I in for? At best, I'd like to remove the sliding pane, have a local shop cut me a replacement, and reinstall with new fuzzy trim.

And counsel you might have would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Matt
Ventura
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Matt- I had a cracked front side sliding window like that when I first bought my boat in 1998. Took it apart, took it to a auto glass shop and had an exact replacement made, and installed it myself. Nothing difficult at all. Hardest part was matching the tint, since the windows had all been tinted though out the boat by the original owner. For that, a auto shop would probably have the most options to get a good tint match from. Whole operation is a piece of cake. Go for it!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
The glass comes out of the frame, the frame should not have to be removed from the boat.
There is a track in the bottom, and a track at the top. The top track might wrap around the corner and run down the sides. There should be a filler piece in the top track, that prevents the glass from being lifted out by " outside people". These pieces could be one long piece or several shorter ones, sometimes you have to slide the glass front & back to get the pieces out so you can lift the glass out. If your slider has a fixed rear glass piece, it also can be removed after taking out the slider, then the vertical frame piece that holds the fixed glass piece in, then slide the rear portion forward to lift out.
Caution ! Glass is very resilant to side impact, careful not to bump the glass edges against hard points. It can break easily.
Once you have done this once, you will easily be able to remove all glass in the future to clean your tracks. I use one of those steaming wall paper removing units to get the tracks clean like new. The crud comes out nicely with the steam.
alan
 
Tortuga":1h73ehif said:
Thank you all for this -- I'll give it a spin and take some photos along the way to post for the next guy!

Matt
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Matt.. need to replace my glass also.. did you replace yours? if so, how did it go. thanks. Paul Nelson. New Orleans
 
chriscarrera":894jdkdr said:
I agree, don't bother with DSG, its hopeless trying to contact them and get results.
Go to a glass shop, custom cut, done.
Click to expand...

Agree! I did this once. Same window.

Easy, cheap, fast, no sweat!

And no shipping.

What's not to like?

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
I've ordered all the pieces; slider tracks and felt/hairy seal from DG. Very helpful on the phone and they will send you the detail assembly drawing. The only problem i had with DG was how long it took to ship the parts. In my case, the parts arrived after the rain and cold set in. (Seattle) The job will likely get done in the spring.
Harbor Freight sells these vacuum handles for moving windows (glass) back and forth with enough stability to lift the window safely out of the tracks. Well worth the money.
If anyone has completed this task, I still would like to see the photos.
 
I'm in the process of replacing my starboard slider right now. Came out one morning and it was shattered. Once I figured out how to remove it, I went ahead and removed the port slider to take to the glass shop to use as a template. Most glass shops will not guarantee a fit if you make a template, but if you bring a piece and say "just like this," they will take responsibility for it being identical.

Seemed like a good time to vacuum out the tracks and clean the plastic runner. I even shampooed the fuzzy strip and squirted it with liquid Teflon.

Even a large glass shop in Seattle didn't have the right glass in stock. They said it would take 2-3 days to get it in stock.

Mark
 
Marco Flamingo":2r2o3b9z said:
Even a large glass shop in Seattle didn't have the right glass in stock. They said it would take 2-3 days to get it in stock.
Mark
Click to expand...

Hey Mark,

What glass place did you go to in Seattle? I cracked my starboard glass and will be looking for a place to get a replacement. Thanks!

- tom
 
I'm curious: aren't the sliding glasses made of tempered glass?

I thought tempered glass couldn't be cut...once it had been tempered.
 
Update: Pacific Glass in Renton, WA can cut replacement glass.

https://www.pacificglass.biz/

Mine came out OK. They used some silicone or something to attach the latch, it doesn't seem very secure. It was $60 for the glass. Also, it seems a tiny bit thicker than my stock glass, it doesn't slide as well as before.

- tom
 
Tom,

Sorry I didn't see your old post. I went to McIntosh Glass in Ballard (too late now!)

I ordered tempered glass like the original and it was sent out to some other supplier. Tempered glass is usually a little less expensive than laminated safety glass but because many shops don't have it in stock it ends up costing more and taking more time. As you noted, thickness may be more important than exact tint or tempered.
 
Commodore, i've not had to deal with this sort of problem yet, but when the time comes (hopefully never) I will consider the same sort of glue that a rear view mirror is attached to a window on a vehicle. You may want to check with your local NAPA out parts place for a starting point.
 
Schuster":cxg54yld said:
Commodore, i've not had to deal with this sort of problem yet, but when the time comes (hopefully never) I will consider the same sort of glue that a rear view mirror is attached to a window on a vehicle. You may want to check with your local NAPA out parts place for a starting point.
Click to expand...

I've used that stuff to reattach mirrors to windshields in cars a couple of times. Often falls off again in about a year. I wouldn't use it for the window latches. On my boat I used 5200 when I had to replaced window latches.
 
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