Sink and stove mod on a 19

I wouldn't prefer the through-hull to be that low, but if mine was, I'd definitely have a proper seacock on it. Then you have a way to shut it off in case of hose failure (and I'd shut it off whenever not aboard as well). I wouldn't see any reason to have the potential exposure to a hose failure sinking the boat when you are not even using the sink. Sure it's not likely, but still. I'd also want a bronze (or chromed bronze) or 316 stainless through hull, but that's just me.

Double clamping is only required on a couple of specific hoses (fuel fills and one other one that I forget at the mo' but I think it's inboard-engine related). Double clamps on any other through hull are optional and fine UNLESS there is not the right amount of space on the barb. Sometimes the barb is not long enough to really accommodate two clamps, and then one of the clamps sort of rides on the edge of the barb and can actually damage the hose or "encourage" the hose to try to come off. So I'd look and if there is not enough room to really accommodate two clamps, then remove one of them. I like AWAB type clamps that are easier on the hose than the ones with all the open slits.

I'd also want to have hose rated for beneath the waterline, although technically you are only beneath the dynamic waterline. But then there's no harm in having the beneath-the-waterline rated hose either. Just a preference.

The one minor plus I see is that you won't have much "droozle space" on the topsides between the through hull and the waterline (for staining, etc.). That wouldn't be enough to encourage me to put it that low, but it is something.
 
Sunbeam is coreect that ABYC and CG (for recreational boats) only require double clamping on fuel fill and on exhaust fittings. ISO which is the European standard for recreational vessels does require double clamping on any hoses to sea cocks--especially below the waterline.

I have had a number of marine surveyors insist on double clamping hoses below the waterlines--they are correct is is a good idea. But if you were to press them to show you in any US regulations, they cannot.

Absolutely excellent point about barb length--and quality of hose clamps. We often see hose clamps which are SS from the auto parts store....problem is that the screw fittings are not SS, even if the band is SS.
 
My bigger concern now is figuring out if my thru hull is regular plastic or Marelon. If the latter then I'm not too concerned. If the former then I guess I'd contemplate having it removed and reinstalled with a good metal one.

I'm not gonna even think about having the hole filled, re-glassed, epoxied or whatever. And then having ANOTHER hole made. No way.

I'm sure everything is fine and the 2 subsequent sea trials that I did proved that. But it never hurts to be over cautious when you're on the water.
 
Here's the Forespar Marelon page showing white through-hulls with barbs. The outer rim looks flattened, which may be a clue (I've seen other random plastic through hulls that have a more rounded lip). Also, if memory serves, they may have Marelon embossed on the lip, but I can't remember for sure.

http://www.forespar.com/products/boat-m ... hull.shtml

If you went to a seacock you wouldn't be using a through hull with a barb directly on it (but maybe you don't plan to change that).

Photo of the white Marelon barbed through hull from the linked page:

906022-thru-hull-connector-marine-boat-plumbing.jpg
 
Sunbeam":3soy1vik said:
Here's the Forespar Marelon page showing white through-hulls with barbs. The outer rim looks flattened, which may be a clue (I've seen other random plastic through hulls that have a more rounded lip). Also, if memory serves, they may have Marelon embossed on the lip, but I can't remember for sure.

http://www.forespar.com/products/boat-m ... hull.shtml

If you went to a seacock you wouldn't be using a through hull with a barb directly on it (but maybe you don't plan to change that).

Photo of the white Marelon barbed through hull from the linked page:

906022-thru-hull-connector-marine-boat-plumbing.jpg
Click to expand...

i'll just call the installer. But thanks.
 
I may have missed something, but I didn't see where anyone was recommending filling this hole and adding another one. Maybe recommending a seacock sounded like that (?). Adding a seacock could be done using the same hole, just different hardware (seacock and threaded through hull). Maybe that was obvious, but just figured I'd mention it. Asking the installer is a good idea. Maybe you can get a part number, which will tell you exactly what you have.
 
Just adding a simple ball valve on that drain line would make me feel like I had an option for closure or at least carry a pair of these and tie them to the hose for easy access.

http://www.amazon.com/AMPRO-T70547-Hose ... B00A8FNOP0

Just last week we ran across about 8 miles of open water with 4-6ft wind waves crashing on the port beam/bow. I would be willing to bet that in such a situation, your drain would allow water under that wave pressure to slosh up the pipe and splash around your sink area. It would be nice to have a quick solution for that mess.

Greg
 
thataway":1bftqckp said:
ABYC 27.4.4 Seacock — A type of valve used to control intake or discharge of water through the hull. It is operated by a lever type handle usually operating through a 90° arc, giving a clear indication of whether it is open or shut, and is typically of the two following types:
27.4.4.1 Flanged Sea Valve — A Seacock with an integral flange used to individually and securely mount the device directly to the boat hull structure.

27.4.4.2 In Line Ball Valve — A Seacock designed to be supported entirely by the through-hull fitting.

Now is your thru hull below the water line or not? I would so consider it, since you do see that water comes thru it when the boat is at with any chop,



A proper sea cock;

93292190.9rJz5hEU.jpg


This may be a bit of "overkill" for a CDory"--but what is proper. If you put a sea cock on, or even a thru hull with a threaded tail piece you put a ball valve on, it should have solid fiberglass thru the hull (can be thickened epoxy), and a backing block.

As for the number of "plastic" or "nylon--un-reinforced I consider them not satisfactory for a thru near the waterline. Marlon is an impact-resistant, noncombustible, fiberglass-reinforced material with UV inhibitors, formulated for marine applications. Some like this--I tend to avoid it, because I have seen it break.

I have seen new nylon thru hulls break. I have seen ones which I have no idea of their age break. Certainly with time, there is more likely to have a failure due to UV light degradation of the plastic material. I do have one thru hull bilge pump discharge nylon fitting, which I check the inside and outside regularly--it is 18" above the actual waterline. I have 3 thru hulls, which are 12" above the waterline and are SS.

The answer to is a white nylon thru hull strong enough for a valve?--is no, it is not strong enough.

I don't understand your question about the 4200--what did the mechanic do? Is the hose clear, or is it re-inforced with nylon threads? I always use re-inforced for a drain.
Click to expand...

I used this exact same setup when I installed my washdown system. When I installed the bronze thru-hull I undercut the material back, epoxied then installed with 5200. No problems thus far. If I was the OP I would ask exactly how he installed/prepared the hole for the thru hull as he seems concerned.
 
haliman":30qoc2xr said:
I used this exact same setup when I installed my washdown system. When I installed the bronze thru-hull I undercut the material back, epoxied then installed with 5200. No problems thus far. If I was the OP I would ask exactly how he installed/prepared the hole for the thru hull as he seems concerned.
Click to expand...
Unrelated to the main post but when EQ installed my raw water wash down system the hole is well above the water line and a PCV pipe/strainer system is attached to the outside of the hull. That way one avoids the entire through hull below the water line problem.
 
Although, wouldn't this be in the uncored topsides? I'm not at my boat right now, but I don't think the bottom core extends up the sides after the chine.... does it?
 
Greg: Thanks for the "pliers" and simple valve suggestions. I think I'll try the plastic valve and also buy the pliers (just to have them and add them to my toolbox).

Yes, the passenger seats fit over the boxes. He installed new snaps on the boxes to attach to the cushion.

Sure. More pics to follow!
 
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