Shearwater transom rebuild

stevej

New member
Woo Hoo
Picked up Shearwater this afternoon and am very impressed with the new transom. Becker Enterprises delivered as promised, the workmanship is amazing. Mr Becker actually has one of the most beautiful shops I have ever seen but it was occupied by a 42 foot custom boat he is working on so Shearwater had to go blue tarp route next to the shop.

You can fast forward to my album if you just want to skip the techie details
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

Prep work complete and ready to start core install
cleaned_and_preped.sized.jpg

Laminated foam core
Note the cutouts along the bottom edge, HD (high density) foam is used for trim tab attachments and drain plug
New_core.sized.jpg

Core material
HD foam section
What looks like a pencil line is actually the compression line after attempting to crush it in a vice. Tight as it could be turned by hand and compressed about 32nd of an inch or less
HD_foam.sized.jpg

Cross section cutout of lower density foam from scupper cutout
Did a vice test on this section, compressed about a 16th of an inch and only on the back side (old glass). The front glass (port side) did not even flex.
core_section.sized.jpg

Core in transom
HD foam in motor mounts holes
Tab actuators hydraulics and mounting screws
Motor well drains
core_installed.sized.jpg

Side view of installed core
New_core_side_view.sized.jpg

Cap cross section
Cap_view.sized.jpg

Glassed in
Glassed_in.sized.jpg

Cap glassed in
This was really the weak point in the original transom. No glass used to tie together the inside of the motor well to the cap. Could have been done when the factory did the prior repair (post toland ownership)
Don't expect it will be and issue anymore
glassed_cap.sized.jpg

Finish work and new scuppers
The scuppers had to be installed 3/4 inch above the deck as opposed to being slightly below. Needed to do it this way because the deck is not glassed to the back of the transom. The original deck drains will be reinstalled to deal with the remaining slop.
scuppers_added.sized.jpg

Finish work on cap
Glassed_transom_cap.sized.jpg

Completed transom
Well almost, I still have to put in motor well drain sleeves and the old deck drains
Need to apply barrier coat and new bottom paint also
Not going to reinstall the plug, nine years with the boat and have never used it once.
New_transom.sized.jpg

Scupper detail
3 1/2 inch rubber exhaust flapper valves will cap the scuppers. Calculated full deck drain time of 2 minutes.
scupper_side_view.sized.jpg

Corner seam and gelcoat match
Cannot tell that any work was done its totally seamless in color match and finish
corner_blend_in.sized.jpg

Even with the foam core Mr. Becker stressed that any holes be over drilled, filled with thickened west system epoxy and the screw sealed with 4200 or something of that nature.

Next is to have the bed liner sprayed in over the transom cap and covering the motorwell and seats

Lot of stuff to install before the new motor goes on. Don't think I have ever had Shearwater so torn apart.

stevej
 
That looks great Steve. Thanks so much for being so detailed with the details. It is very helpful. I am looking at almost the identical treatment on Shearwater's sister ship. I've known it for a while and will probably get it taken care of early next year.

I agree with skipping the drain plug. Mine has never been opened either. It isn't even a plug anymore. The previous owner glued in some PVC pipe and a valve that wouldn't drain much anyway. It is solid and has never been a problem so I don't touch it. There is a 2000 gpm pump in the compartment where the drain is.

Are you planning to reinstall the below water thru hull drains to take care of the stuff that can't get out the scuppers, or just the deck screens to drain to a bilge pump? I hate those holes with the hoses and would prefer to rely on a pump. Do you figure the scuppers would remain above water if the under-deck area filled? If so, even a bilge pump failure would not sink her.

You've got me inspired now. And that Mr. Becker guy has some experience on CD25 Cruise Ships. I am running out of excuses fast.
 
Hey Mike good to hear from you and sorry to hear that Tyboo is in need of work also. On the positive side the finished transom is better than new and adds to the overall value of these "classic" 25's.

Shearwater has the same setup with the bilge pump in the center locker, kind of like the plug in nine years I think it came on one time. The one time was last season and the locker was filled with about 80lbs of ice and eight tuna.
Like you I don't really care for the original below water line deck drains and would prefer not to go that route but have been unable to come up with a solution I like. Thought about putting a pump inline on each side but the logistics get a little messy in routing the exit hose above the water line and finding a pump that can handle the all the various crud coming from the deck without needing constant maintenance. Will most likely stay with the below water line drains to keep it simple.

Good question on what would happen if the lockers filled. Have 3 1/2 inches from the waterline to the bottom of the scupper add another 3/4 inch to get above the drain pan and level with the rest of the deck to start filling the center locker and maybe another 1/2 inch before it starts filling the starboard locker through the wiring boot inlet.
The lockers filling is really an area I don't like to dwell upon. Once the starboard locker fills there is a cutout into the battery/gas tank area if, you flood the battery compartment it's all downhill. Getting the lockers sealed is next on the list for big fixes and something I spoke to Mr. Becker about.

I will get some 3" cork or rubber plugs to use when moored.

Chris
The HD foam is actually a type of foam. The section in the photo is 2 1/2 H
2 3/4 L and 1 1/2 W. Weighs 1.35 onces or 39 grams.

RDJ
Fair question on the cost and in the interest of sharing the project it does come into the picture.
Remember this was a not soup to nuts fix I did as much work as I felt comfortable with to save some money.
I wanted and expected a very high standard of workmanship and quality. After seeing other examples of Mr. Becker's work, his to die for shop, custom work on his home (also makes his own furniture) it does not take long to understand he is a craftsman not a repairman.

So bottom line $5300.00 I have no reservation that I got my moneys worth and that is all that matters to me.
stevej
 
stevej

Thanks, much appreciated. It certainly looks like you got your moneys worth, and then some. Unreal workmanship. Looking forward to shots of the cockpit when done.

Thanks, Bob (RJD)
 
Finally hauled Shearwater to the shop today to have the motor installed and propped. Should get her back late next week
Been a long and expensive road but feels good to be almost done and back on the water.

Ready_to_mount_the_motor.sized.jpg

stevej
 
stevej

Just out of curiosity, how many fiberglass layers did they put on the aft side of the foam core to bond to the sides? Couldn't tell from the pictures.

Boris
 
Boris, the core cut out I have shows 4 layers of glass used. The total thickness of the fiberglass is slightly less than what the factory had. Mr. Becker did discuss this point with me and noted that he used a higher grade of glass matting so overall layup is stronger than factory product. I would have to concur, it takes a significant effort to get a drill bit through the back of the transom and when I attempted to compress the core sample in a 6 inch vice the glass work was not even scratched let alone flexed by the effort.

stevej
 
Stevej – it looks great.

The Line-X spray coating you have on the boat – did you or Mr. Becker do this or did you have a Line-X dealer do it?
_______
Dave dlt.gif
 
Back
Top