My 25 Cruiser did not come with a usable trailer. Everything local is advertised as either "for pontoon" or "for Deep Vee". If I buy one now, how will I or anyone know how to set it up to fit my C-Dory? Is there a published set of specs or instructions on how to position the bunks? At this point I'm not so concerned as to which trailer to buy but rather the issue of how to know how to adjust whatever I wind up with.
"Setting up" a trailer for a C-Dory?
- Thread starter BillE
- Start date
It is sort of eyeball, seat of the pants stuff with a little technical stuff thrown in to set up a trailer.
First adjust the bunks by eyeball. Better if you can find another C-Dory trailer and measure its bunk height and spacing.
Then wait for a calm day at your boat ramp and load up the trailer. Make sure that the bunks are in place and pull it out on level ground at the top of the ramp.
Use a bathroom scale or a scale made specifically for it to check the tongue weight. For a 25 I suspect about 7,000 lbs for boat and trailer. You need about 6-700 lbs of tongue weight for easy towing. If much outside of that weight, relaunch and adjust the front member fore or aft to add or subtract tongue weight.
Check how the bunks ride on the boat and make any adjustments before reloading.
That is about it.
David
First adjust the bunks by eyeball. Better if you can find another C-Dory trailer and measure its bunk height and spacing.
Then wait for a calm day at your boat ramp and load up the trailer. Make sure that the bunks are in place and pull it out on level ground at the top of the ramp.
Use a bathroom scale or a scale made specifically for it to check the tongue weight. For a 25 I suspect about 7,000 lbs for boat and trailer. You need about 6-700 lbs of tongue weight for easy towing. If much outside of that weight, relaunch and adjust the front member fore or aft to add or subtract tongue weight.
Check how the bunks ride on the boat and make any adjustments before reloading.
That is about it.
David
journey on
New member
My advice comes from one who never has set up a trailer, but wondered how they do it. So here are some things I'd consider.
First, check with the manufacturer of the trailer you're are interested in and ask if they've ever set up a trailer specifically for a C-Dory 25. E-Z Loader supplies the OEM trailers (or did) for the factory, so they must have dimensions for both bunk or roller.
Second ask a variety of dealers how they set up trailers. Ask specifically about C-Dory 25's. They should give you a clear concise answer.
You're in Tennessee so buy a trailer that's made in the south-east. That way, if the boat doesn't fit the trailer at least you can go to the factory.
Buy a trailer of at least 7500# gvw. That's what Journey On rides on and we've been happy. Last thought, think about a roller trailer, they're easy to load and unload. Worked well for us, both power and sail.
I'd be fascinated to hear someone who's actually set up a trailer. All the trailers I've had come preset when I bought the boat.
Boris
First, check with the manufacturer of the trailer you're are interested in and ask if they've ever set up a trailer specifically for a C-Dory 25. E-Z Loader supplies the OEM trailers (or did) for the factory, so they must have dimensions for both bunk or roller.
Second ask a variety of dealers how they set up trailers. Ask specifically about C-Dory 25's. They should give you a clear concise answer.
You're in Tennessee so buy a trailer that's made in the south-east. That way, if the boat doesn't fit the trailer at least you can go to the factory.
Buy a trailer of at least 7500# gvw. That's what Journey On rides on and we've been happy. Last thought, think about a roller trailer, they're easy to load and unload. Worked well for us, both power and sail.
I'd be fascinated to hear someone who's actually set up a trailer. All the trailers I've had come preset when I bought the boat.
Boris
I didn't set up my trailer BUT I have had 2 Pacific Trailers over the last 14 years and rebuilt the bunks on the first one, changed the adjustments slightly according to the wear on the carpets and then put new carpet on my trailer. That was just a few months before I found a tandem Pacific trailer. I have now done some of the same to it: Lowered the bunks 3 inches, adjusted some tilt in the bunks, which required removing the bunks, and replacing the bunk risers with new, modified risers from Pacific, and then replacing the bunk boards and carpet.
I would HIGHLY recommend the Pacific Trailers, as they are sturdy, have real galvanized steel fenders, and you can actually stand on them without flinching, (or inhaling several minus pounds of helium and they will not bend or break.
Pacific has the specs for C-Dory and can set it up at the factory for you.
Link to Pacific Trailers:
https://www.pacifictrailers.com/pages/contact-us
(888) 479-6920
Pacific Trailers
13643 5th Street
Chino, CA 91710
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
I would HIGHLY recommend the Pacific Trailers, as they are sturdy, have real galvanized steel fenders, and you can actually stand on them without flinching, (or inhaling several minus pounds of helium and they will not bend or break.
Pacific has the specs for C-Dory and can set it up at the factory for you.
Link to Pacific Trailers:
https://www.pacifictrailers.com/pages/contact-us
(888) 479-6920
Pacific Trailers
13643 5th Street
Chino, CA 91710
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Avidmagnum12
Member
Bille
The trailer for our 25 is a Load Right Lr-Ab26TB400102LTB2
9,940 lb GVWR. Carrying Capacity 8,400 Lbs
This has hydraulic brakes on both axles..bunks for the load and aiming bunks in the front.
When we first bought the C-Otter we scaled it with an average load and full of water and fuel and it scaled out to a total of 7,900 lbs. That’s on the trailer. The boat like myself has gained weight since. I’d say it’s about 8,300 or more now. If I were going to trailer short distances you could “get by” with a lesser trailer. I trailer thousands of miles a year and would settle for nothing less. I’ve also converted the surge brakes to Electric over Hydraulic.
The trailer was set up perfect from the start. I was lucky. I’ve helped three other 25 owners get there’s set up like mine......they were not as lucky.
Trailering is easy with the correct setup. Good stopping is a must! And don’t forget the tires. Good year Endurance tires are the way to go.
Are there other good trailers out there .....absolutely! Hope you can bring your 25 down to Hontoon this year. Sure would like to see you and your boat.
Tom
The trailer for our 25 is a Load Right Lr-Ab26TB400102LTB2
9,940 lb GVWR. Carrying Capacity 8,400 Lbs
This has hydraulic brakes on both axles..bunks for the load and aiming bunks in the front.
When we first bought the C-Otter we scaled it with an average load and full of water and fuel and it scaled out to a total of 7,900 lbs. That’s on the trailer. The boat like myself has gained weight since. I’d say it’s about 8,300 or more now. If I were going to trailer short distances you could “get by” with a lesser trailer. I trailer thousands of miles a year and would settle for nothing less. I’ve also converted the surge brakes to Electric over Hydraulic.
The trailer was set up perfect from the start. I was lucky. I’ve helped three other 25 owners get there’s set up like mine......they were not as lucky.
Trailering is easy with the correct setup. Good stopping is a must! And don’t forget the tires. Good year Endurance tires are the way to go.
Are there other good trailers out there .....absolutely! Hope you can bring your 25 down to Hontoon this year. Sure would like to see you and your boat.
Tom
Hi Tom, would love to come down and see you guys this year. You and Joyce are a big reason why I bought a 25 and you still have the best setup that I've seen. The decision to trailer will require buying both a trailer and a truck to haul it, and I'm going to wait awhile to determine if we are really going to do that route or not. It's a big commitment and trailering a heavy boat is not something that I'm comfortable with yet. We will see, and thanks for the info.
Avidmagnum12
Member
With the right equipment towing a 25 is not a big deal. I’d rather tow the 25 than a pontoon boat. The truck is a big investment but it opens up the use of your boat. The BIG advantage of a C-Dory is it’s easy trailering.
Tom
Tom
I have to second the thoughts of Tom--we also have the same Loadrite trailer. When we hauled at the end of the river trip--we had no problems with the first shot on the trailer--power on and a few cranks of the winch--a quick tour around the parking lot and a quick stop--tighten up and we were ready for about a 700 mile drive back home.
The second issue is the electric over hydraulic brakes. Certainly a safety feature for you and others.
As for trailers--a deep V trailer will not work well. Many have the dead rise cut on the top surface of the bunk--and this means that the c Dory will be riding on 1/4" of wood--and a single bunk on each side.
You want support for the full boat--you want two bunks on each side--and the "target bunk" does make a difference for both loading and launching.
As for adjustment--make the trailer bunks almost flat across the stern. You will need about an inch to two inches to start with--I like to have the outboard bunk right where the bilge turns with the reverse shear at the chine. Inner bunk about half way. Pull the boat out--don't worry about tongue load to start with--you need support and then you can figure the tongue load--it is usually between 7% to 12% of the total weight of the boat.
We try and get the inner bunks as low as possible. The bottom of the 25 will just barely fit between the fenders--Many ride over the fenders. Loose the bolts on the outer bunks--use a hydraulic jack--and cribbing to bring the outer bunk up so it just bears weight of the boat--then the same on the other side--ideally two jacks and bring both sides up equally. Tighten the bolts on the rear bunk support, and then go to the front of the bunks--again using jacks, bring the bunk up with the jack so it just takes the weight of the boat. The mid support should be loose at this time. Tighten the forward bunk support--check to see if the mid support has to come up--and then you can jack it up if necessary--and tighten.
Do the trailer tongue weight at home on a level surface. You also want the trailer when hitched to the truck to be absolutely level--both fore and aft and athwartship. Most likely the tongue weight will be close--but you can move the boat fore and aft if necessary at the next launch. There are trailer hitches which have a built in hydraulic scale--that is probably the easiest way to do the tongue.
Many ramps are often fairly busy--you want to get in and out as safely and quickly as possible.
The second issue is the electric over hydraulic brakes. Certainly a safety feature for you and others.
As for trailers--a deep V trailer will not work well. Many have the dead rise cut on the top surface of the bunk--and this means that the c Dory will be riding on 1/4" of wood--and a single bunk on each side.
You want support for the full boat--you want two bunks on each side--and the "target bunk" does make a difference for both loading and launching.
As for adjustment--make the trailer bunks almost flat across the stern. You will need about an inch to two inches to start with--I like to have the outboard bunk right where the bilge turns with the reverse shear at the chine. Inner bunk about half way. Pull the boat out--don't worry about tongue load to start with--you need support and then you can figure the tongue load--it is usually between 7% to 12% of the total weight of the boat.
We try and get the inner bunks as low as possible. The bottom of the 25 will just barely fit between the fenders--Many ride over the fenders. Loose the bolts on the outer bunks--use a hydraulic jack--and cribbing to bring the outer bunk up so it just bears weight of the boat--then the same on the other side--ideally two jacks and bring both sides up equally. Tighten the bolts on the rear bunk support, and then go to the front of the bunks--again using jacks, bring the bunk up with the jack so it just takes the weight of the boat. The mid support should be loose at this time. Tighten the forward bunk support--check to see if the mid support has to come up--and then you can jack it up if necessary--and tighten.
Do the trailer tongue weight at home on a level surface. You also want the trailer when hitched to the truck to be absolutely level--both fore and aft and athwartship. Most likely the tongue weight will be close--but you can move the boat fore and aft if necessary at the next launch. There are trailer hitches which have a built in hydraulic scale--that is probably the easiest way to do the tongue.
Many ramps are often fairly busy--you want to get in and out as safely and quickly as possible.
gulfcoast john
New member
BillE,
Thanks again for your generous hospitality to the group on the Cumberland/TN river adventure.
I concur with everything said (esp get Goodyear Endurance trailer tires and buy as locally as feasible).
Give Marc Grove at Wefing’s a call for a quote on a Float-On trailer (made in Vero Beach, FL) for your boat. He’s familiar with the stats and got me the best price on the continent for a Bob Austin/Grove custom trailer clone for the TomCat. The aluminum I-beam and all SS fasteners will tolerate saltwater use and your resale value will be better. Any galvanized square-beam frame can rust out from the inside where you can’t see it until it cracks. A painted trailer is even worse to an experienced saltwater trailer boater.
You don’t have to worry about all those details...it’s stressful enough already. Mine was 99.9% perfect, I ended up moving the winch stand forward 1.5 inches to get the transom fully on the bunks and increase the tongue wgt to 8%.
You can score a great deal on a well cared for used truck, since millions are for sale (you must really work and must travel to find a great used C-Dory). The NADA value for our ideal 2005 GMC2500HD with 82,000 miles is under $15,000 and more than you need (2018 replacement would be over $80,000).
I also agree 100% that having the ideal trailer makes towing a happy and more stress-free fun time, and broadens your towing horizons. Our boat came with an older trailer that (it turns out) was designed for the lighter TC24. In the first 15 months we had 3 explosive blow-outs on I-10, 1 flat and one explosive blow-out on the 2-lane road to Appalachicola with tires under 24 months from manufacture (in China, of course). No issues since we picked up the new Float-On from Wefings in Dec 2014. And new Goodyear Endurance made in USA trailer tires this year.
With practice, your rig will find it’s ‘happy place.’ Mine is at 60-62MPH not the 87MPH rating for the Endurance tires (all other trailer tires are rated for no more than 65 MPH). Take your first trailer trips on secondary roads where the speed limit is 55 or less. Stay in the rightmost lane when possible and slow in an obvious fashion for merging traffic to merge in front of you. Don’t go through Atlanta or Tampa or even Birmingham or on I-95 or I-75 til you have 25-50 road towing hours. Hang back 5-10 rig lengths from the vehicle in front of you when possible.
EOH brakes will get you set for the Rocky Mtn passes, even if you guys initially have no plans to go there.
I agree with you...don’t be in any hurry to decide, but enjoy your boat in your beautiful area in the meantime!
Cheers!
Thanks again for your generous hospitality to the group on the Cumberland/TN river adventure.
I concur with everything said (esp get Goodyear Endurance trailer tires and buy as locally as feasible).
Give Marc Grove at Wefing’s a call for a quote on a Float-On trailer (made in Vero Beach, FL) for your boat. He’s familiar with the stats and got me the best price on the continent for a Bob Austin/Grove custom trailer clone for the TomCat. The aluminum I-beam and all SS fasteners will tolerate saltwater use and your resale value will be better. Any galvanized square-beam frame can rust out from the inside where you can’t see it until it cracks. A painted trailer is even worse to an experienced saltwater trailer boater.
You don’t have to worry about all those details...it’s stressful enough already. Mine was 99.9% perfect, I ended up moving the winch stand forward 1.5 inches to get the transom fully on the bunks and increase the tongue wgt to 8%.
You can score a great deal on a well cared for used truck, since millions are for sale (you must really work and must travel to find a great used C-Dory). The NADA value for our ideal 2005 GMC2500HD with 82,000 miles is under $15,000 and more than you need (2018 replacement would be over $80,000).
I also agree 100% that having the ideal trailer makes towing a happy and more stress-free fun time, and broadens your towing horizons. Our boat came with an older trailer that (it turns out) was designed for the lighter TC24. In the first 15 months we had 3 explosive blow-outs on I-10, 1 flat and one explosive blow-out on the 2-lane road to Appalachicola with tires under 24 months from manufacture (in China, of course). No issues since we picked up the new Float-On from Wefings in Dec 2014. And new Goodyear Endurance made in USA trailer tires this year.
With practice, your rig will find it’s ‘happy place.’ Mine is at 60-62MPH not the 87MPH rating for the Endurance tires (all other trailer tires are rated for no more than 65 MPH). Take your first trailer trips on secondary roads where the speed limit is 55 or less. Stay in the rightmost lane when possible and slow in an obvious fashion for merging traffic to merge in front of you. Don’t go through Atlanta or Tampa or even Birmingham or on I-95 or I-75 til you have 25-50 road towing hours. Hang back 5-10 rig lengths from the vehicle in front of you when possible.
EOH brakes will get you set for the Rocky Mtn passes, even if you guys initially have no plans to go there.
I agree with you...don’t be in any hurry to decide, but enjoy your boat in your beautiful area in the meantime!
Cheers!
Avidmagnum12
I just bought the same LoadRite Elite Series 5 Star trailer if the Model# is actually ......26T84 vs .....26TB4 (typo).
Mine has the 2 4x6 slightly beveled bunks instead of 2x6 laying flat that I think I saw on yours.
Could you send me your setup measurements? It sure would help to start close to right.
Benton
I just bought the same LoadRite Elite Series 5 Star trailer if the Model# is actually ......26T84 vs .....26TB4 (typo).
Mine has the 2 4x6 slightly beveled bunks instead of 2x6 laying flat that I think I saw on yours.
Could you send me your setup measurements? It sure would help to start close to right.
Benton
BBlalock":mb77fki5 said:
Benton, you have the wrong bunks. The 4 x 6 on edge are for Deep "V" boats. You should swap out the bunks, which are flat and have to articulate with the progressive deadrise. Hopefully your trailer dealer will do this for you. The on edge bunks don't articulate properly--and never will. The attachment to the frame are different than the flat bunks.
Enclosing a photo of your trailer will help. (You ask the moderator TyBoo for an album). For your setup, you would be best served with a photo graph of the trailer (bunks) without the boat on it.
I have the same trailer that Tom has. Colby and I believe "Tully B" also have the correct trailer. Tom was off cruising recently--not sure if he is back or not. Our trailer also has the cut out aft for a sling to pass thru for removing the boat from the trailer with a travel lift or crane which is properly rigged with spreader bars.
Avidmagnum12
Member
As Dr. Bob said a few photos of your trailer would help determine what your plan should be. I can take photos of my bunks later in the week when I launch again. PM me with your email address and phone number. We are on an extended trip and have email off and on. Launching is easy if your trailer is set up correctly.
Bob, Tom and others
Here is a link to my trailer:
https://www.loadrite.com/trailer-type/b ... ?type=bunk the 5 Starr is mine.
I did pm Tom telling how I use my trailer. My boat is on our lift 24/7 except if big storm is coming or dealer service is needed. Launch is 6 miles away and dealer is 3 miles from the launch. I don't do any long haul towing.
I will request an album.
I would have thought with C Otter's model# being the same that the bunks would have been the same.
Here is a link to my trailer:
https://www.loadrite.com/trailer-type/b ... ?type=bunk the 5 Starr is mine.
I did pm Tom telling how I use my trailer. My boat is on our lift 24/7 except if big storm is coming or dealer service is needed. Launch is 6 miles away and dealer is 3 miles from the launch. I don't do any long haul towing.
I will request an album.
I would have thought with C Otter's model# being the same that the bunks would have been the same.
Avidmagnum12
Member
The 5 Starr is a galvanized trailer. The C-Otter’s is aluminum. The way you are using your trailer make it a good choice. Galvanized trailers are typically heaver than aluminum but coat less. I’m not sure why they put different bunks on. Mine also has side aiming posts and front aiming bunks which I consider a must. No PM yet but I’ll contact you when I receive it.
Tom
Tom
Benton, I looked up my trailer and it is:It is :
LRAB28T8400L102BT2. I confirmed this on the trailer frame decal.
Aluminum frame, Flat bunks, the gal steel support for the bunks, cutout in the back for retrieval and the target bunks.
Is your trailer:galvanized frame (5 star). 8,000# capacity, and bunks set on edge with bevel? Do you have target bunks as an option?
The two linked pages show the difference in bunk system if you scroll down on the page.
It appears that the 5 star trailers have galvanized frames. Or if you do have the aluminum frame, that someone ordered the on edge bunks as a custom feature?
I would be concerned with the area of hull support if the bunk is beveled and the hull resting resting on the bevel.
LRAB28T8400L102BT2. I confirmed this on the trailer frame decal.
Aluminum frame, Flat bunks, the gal steel support for the bunks, cutout in the back for retrieval and the target bunks.
Is your trailer:galvanized frame (5 star). 8,000# capacity, and bunks set on edge with bevel? Do you have target bunks as an option?
The two linked pages show the difference in bunk system if you scroll down on the page.
It appears that the 5 star trailers have galvanized frames. Or if you do have the aluminum frame, that someone ordered the on edge bunks as a custom feature?
I would be concerned with the area of hull support if the bunk is beveled and the hull resting resting on the bevel.