Setting my anchor troubles

I'm going to go with bad technique for the anchoring problems.

The original post said he let the anchor go to the bottom, then added 20' on top of it before backing down. (At least that's how I read it)

That seems to be a pretty reliable way of fouling the anchor, regardless of the type.

I much prefer to be in reverse while deploying, and pay out line till it sets, then add more depending on conditions.
 
I agree that technique is very important. I will drop the anchor straight down--the depth sounder gives us a good idea of how deep, and the anchor rode is marked every 50 feet, so we have a good approximation. Then I give the boat a slight kick in and out of reverse to give sternway--not keeping the boat in reverse. I will allow the 7:1 scope, Secure the rode, and then give another kick in reverse. Wait, see if the anchor has begun to set. Then gradually apply reverse power. Anchoring is a gentle art. Many times in storms, I have set two anchors of different types in a 'V". Initially -lets say- that the fisherman initially sets in grass (probably the best anchor for grass)--I may find hours later that the fisherman has slowly drug, and that the plow type has set in better and is really holding the boat.

On the C Dory one does not have the option of a number of anchors; But a primary bower and at least one Fortress anchors for stern or mud--we carry 3 Fortress, 2 broken down, and one ready to go, under the dinette seat floor.
 
Minnow":2k1cshnm said:
I'm going to go with bad technique for the anchoring problems.

The original post said he let the anchor go to the bottom, then added 20' on top of it before backing down. (At least that's how I read it)

That seems to be a pretty reliable way of fouling the anchor, regardless of the type.

I much prefer to be in reverse while deploying, and pay out line till it sets, then add more depending on conditions.
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Oh, definitely. I won't argue for my technique. I'm a new boater and do a lot of solo boating; I'm constantly learning all these different aspects of boat handling on the fly and never had anyone to teach me (except for you Brats and my Chapman book!)

This winter I'm gonna take the USCG auxiliary boaters course especially since in 2017 I'm planning several long distance, multi day trips.

Having said all that, I'm still gonna upgrade to a heavier anchor and probably a different style too. At least I'll have a nice 16.5lb'er for a spare... Lol
 
fortress anchors are best deployed with plenty of heavy chain, in my experience.

I understand that some have had mixed results with plow anchors, and I agree they are not the most likely to hold in all bottom types, however the plow in and of itself does not skip lightly across the surface. Anyone who has ever run a plow behind a horse will tell you that the plow wants to dig and and stop very very badly. It's the operator that keeps the angle of the plow just right so it doesn't "SET" and instead "SKIMS" as it's pulled by the horse. They are not inherently flawed because they are a plow and plows skim.

This operation is achieved by controlling the point of the plow and keeping it directed upward slightly, enough to move the earth but not enough to set. Again, like the fortress, the opposite (the plow SETTING) is accomplished with a plow type anchor by having plenty of scope out, and having plenty of chain. So if the chain sets on the bottom at a nice acute angle and the portion of the chain attached to your anchor never lifts off the bottom, your plow will never lift upward, and should hold reliably. If when there is sufficient current, insufficient chain, or insufficient scope, such that the chain is being pulled upward at the anchor it will certainly drag. If it stays down, it should hold.

When I fish I will often, if not always fish with barely more scope out than the dept. Usually 1.5:1 in somewhere between 100 and 200' of water. We have some big currents here, and I usually hold just fine. I would not trust this setup, or use it in a situation where I had to hold fast, or wasn't able to pay attention and correct drag, but your anchor can and will hold even if your rode is vertical (ask anyone who has gotten an anchor stuck!).

I'm only going into it like this because there was some advice that 3:1 is fine, and it can be, but it all depends on conditions, bottom, etc. I've held for hours with less than 3:1, even swung around on tide turns no problem, but I've also dragged. If I were learning to anchor I'd start with plenty of rode and then see what I could get away with in terms of shortening it.
 
I have owned, older plough, claw, danforth, they are pretty much old school. I will probably get some flack from happy owners of that type of anchor. But for me in the PNW a spade is my trusted anchor of choice, Manson Supreme in my case. My anchoring method is the same as George on Kerri-On. Back up or go forward very slowly so that the chain does not pile up on top of the anchor. Then I put the engines in neutral and the MS sets it self. I have never backed up on it to dig it in. Minimum scope I use is 3 to 1. I do sleep well at night with my spade dug in.

Martin.
 
When I was at a dock this past summer, one of my activities was to "scope out" what anchors were riding on the bows. Frequently finding the Rocna or Manson Supreme. When I had a chance I would ask the owners, and quit often the new spades were replacing the Delta or CQR and most often, the CQR's were on the sailboats.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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