Service costs

bongo

New member
Hello from the tropics, Northern C-Brats: Been hunting the site for average price $$ for dealer 100 hour or yearly inspection without a hit. Our local Yamaha rep is asking $600 for both my 60 HP Yamahas. Would be mainly a year inspection for my engines are still below 100 hours. They propose: Fuel filter; plugs; gaskets; impeller; lube; $72 for oil; silicon lube; $250 for service. Thanks!
 
I would not think you need new spark plugs just yet. They say the water pump impellers should get replaced every two years. I never bought anything in Panama. If if the dealer you mention is the only game in town you might want to stay friends until you can find an alternative. Call a Yamaha dealer in the states see what they say about pricing. Up in Long Island New York Yamaha dealers quote a shop rate of 150 per hour. So his labor rate does not seem all that bad. If the six hundred dollars for the complete service including two impellers oil, fuel filter changes on both engines it does not sound that bad.
D.D.
 
Just recently paid a Yamaha dealer 2 hours @ $90 shop rate for valve adjust and timing belt replacement on 115HP Yami. Puget Sound area.

jd
 
I usually pay around $300-400/engine for a 100 hour service (although some places charge more). 100 hours is equivalent to 3000 miles on a car engine at 30 MPH or 6,000 at 50MPH. The 100 hr service may also involve checking and adjusting valve clearance etc so the price you were quoted seems about right to me.
 
Thanks... Good info. This makes it easier to part with $. And... of course... gives peace of mind out in the corrugated water world. John
 
I remember my 100 hr. service well...

I would get a list of what is included.....I paid $450 to a place to change the filters and the oil.... and adjust the carbs on my twin 40hp Yamaha's.... no new plugs, no impellers...... they did grease it...just before they greased me.......

Joel
SEA3PO
 
Yep, but like Will-C said: "It your dealer is the only game in town"... and then some. In any case, makes you appreciate the 3 or 5 year no maintenance offered by Evinrude.
 
I would far rather change my own filters and oil...that way I know it is being done properly and with the best possible products... with the new engines and fuel injection there is not much to do ..... changing plugs does not take much skill and they don't do anything to fuel injection or the ignition...so I think regular service is mighty profitable....

I just changed the thermostat in my daughters 2006 BMW 535i ...the dealer quoted her 8 hours labor and the estimate was over $1000.... I ordered the part using Amizon and it was $133 the labor took me an hour and a half...but I knew what I was doing and had all the tricks down ..... (it is under the motor and the sway bar and belly pan need to be removed first...not an easy job but I kept the $1000 (dad always pays) and used it towards my new electronics upgrade....
(C140W and extras)

Joel
SEA3PO
 
Bless those with the penchant for mechanical involvement. I recently was charged $500 for a window operating mechanism on a Honda CRV that I later found in Amazon for $65. No LOL please!
By the way, is there negative effects of running a Yamaha or such at low RPM all day? Now-days, I like to go out on one engine at low RPM and come home on the other. Saves fuel, avoids damaging both engines on submerged objects and being closer to the end cycle of life has made me keen for a slower pace. Or maybe the other pertinent question is: How bad is it to hit a submerged log at cruising speeds? Did than once and almost lost a tooth filling and a heart valve.
 
It's an awful feeling, knowing you need a particular type of repair or service, having limited options to receive it, and then finding out you were taken to the cleaners by the vendor.

Something that would be helpful is if 'brats could post their service/repair work and costs/shop rates in a reference area. Vendor rating and location would be good to know as well. Could just be a simple spreadsheet format.

jd
 
Well, if you're not happy with service charges at a dealer, there's a simple alternative.

Buy a factory service manual, from the factory website and do the service just as they recommend. Changing oil and filters is easy and you can figure that you're earning ~$100/hr. Also, you can be sure that the service is done correctly, something that hasn't always happened with me.

And you can get parts at a discount off the internet. Spark plugs for a Honda outboard are ~$15/ea list and a lot cheaper if you get them by the spark plug number on the internet. Note that the Honda 150 is the same motor as a Civic. So I buy a Civic oil filter.

$300 for a oil change and filters (plus parts,) may be what their accountant says to charge, but doing a good job myself and saving money seems reasonable. It's worthwhile to learn the procedure.

Boris
 
bongo":yk7k090o said:
Bless those with the penchant for mechanical involvement. I recently was charged $500 for a window operating mechanism on a Honda CRV that I later found in Amazon for $65. No LOL please!
By the way, is there negative effects of running a Yamaha or such at low RPM all day? Now-days, I like to go out on one engine at low RPM and come home on the other. Saves fuel, avoids damaging both engines on submerged objects and being closer to the end cycle of life has made me keen for a slower pace. Or maybe the other pertinent question is: How bad is it to hit a submerged log at cruising speeds? Did than once and almost lost a tooth filling and a heart valve.

Too much low speed operation can cause cylinder glazing and fuelk blow by past the rings. This dilutes the oil with gasoline, and can cause engine damage. A mix of operaing rpms, including planing speed operation will give the longest life.
 
Bongo - slow cruising is enjoyable but all day isn't the best for your engine. Extended low rpm and light load running can cause carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. Also if the engine is not regularly run up to a high operating temperature moisture does not get burnt off and can start to emulsify in the oil. IF look in your oil fill and see a brown milky/oily scum - this is water vapour that has emulsified with your oil.

Regards, Rob
 
I've no doubt the problems described from running extended time at low rpm & speed can happen, but I think it more apt to be with a larger single engine or even twins if below perhaps 5 knots. I have run many consecutive days on several month to three month cruises on one or the other of the twin 40 hp Honda's with main concern being overworking the motor not under. With the boat being made heavy for extended cruise & the single motor being propped for running with it's twin at planing speed, I believe a speed close to 6 knots is working the motor & with a max speed of under 9 knots it doesn't take much more than 7 knots to start lugging the single motor causing an overheat not under heat situation. For our CD 22, 2800 rpm gives the 6 knot speed & on our long cruises, I limit the rpm to 3000 rpm except when needed for short burst to control the boat in increased wind, wave & tide situations.

During our long extended slow speed cruises the only times we have had the symptoms described for running the motors to cool was the two times the thermostat froze open.

Jay
 
For my Yamaha twin 40's, the Yamaha mechanics say that the impellers can go 300 hours, which for many folks is about 3 years, but I have mime done every other year as a precaution, and I generally run over 100 hours per year. As to pricing, you could get it done around here for somewhat less, ( my service is ~$400 for both) and they do a pretty complete job.

Harvey
SleepyC:moon

IMGP6699.thumb.jpg
 
I agree that if you can and are able you should get a manual and learn how to do the basic maintenance yourself. It doesn't take long to do. Just serviced both the main and the kicker, all new filters, plugs, oil, water pumps,kicker carb,and therms for around 170$ from boats.net and an afternoon. If for nothing else it will give you a basic orientation of the motor in case something goes wrong on the water or on an extended cruise so your not stuck. I also keep spare filters, plugs,props, and pumps on boat for this reason. most these outboards you can take apart with a few sockets and basic tools.

also a manual is not really needed if you have the internet for most things
 
Good discussion! When I run displacement on 2 engines at 6 knots, and then turn one engine off and lift it out of the water, the boat continues at the same speed with the other engine alone; that gives the sense of what drag brings into play. And, of course, the fuel you save and extended range. And yes, I usually do fire up both boilers and enjoy the wind and feeling of power; but even if you are not aware of it, so does your stress level increase, for you have to be very attentive to logs and other stuff (at least around here). Stress is fine when you are 17 but no so much at 71.
Soooo... I'm going to ask the people who build these engines and see what they opine; and will also be attentive to other inputs by the genial C-Brat folk.
 
I just had my twin Yami 40s serviced.

Change engine oil and filters.
Change gear oils.
Replace plugs.
Pull props, seal/grease shafts.
Change water/fuel filter.
Check temp/flow.
Replace solinoid on one motor.
Change anodes on transom brackets.

Total cost was $550, about $350 of that was labour. Did I get ripped off? I dunno. I put it down to the cost of boating. I don't trust myself to do it. Last time I tried to change the bearings on a wheel, it took me 8 hrs, had loads of bits left over when I had finished! So then had to get it done properly by some one else.
Some people are clever with their hands, some people support the economy by paying others.

Martin.
 
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