June 11. Yesterday, we arrived at Whitehorse from Skagway. On the way Canadian Customs gave us a search at the border & then let us enter after fining nothing awry. First thing upon arrival in Whitehorse, we checked out the launch site & found as expected the water very low & just barely possible to get the boat off the trailer & then a bar to cross with engines up using a pole to access the river channel. With that possibility set, we did our last minute shopping at Walmart & Peter who had given us much useful river information & said we could store the pickup & trailer at his place before Louie agreed to drive to it to Dawson instead, came down down to the Walmart parking lot & we had a good gab fest with him sharing more helpful information for us on the river & Louie's road trip.
We spent the night at the Walmart parking lot & then up at 5 AM to make for the launch site. It took some time & effort to get the boat off, but we managed followed by working the boat out to the channel with the duck pole. With the river so extremely low it took all our years of experience & some added luck to keep it in the main channel & when off the least bit, to quickly get motors off & up, to pole with the current over the sand & gravel bars. Several times & especially when entering Lake Labarge the boat bottom was making contact & we came very close to some solid groundings. We were extremely pleased to see the level change from the low level to actually above our 2003 trip level, when at the 90 mile mark we reached the inflow of the Teslin River into the Yukon. Fortunately the Teslin was running really high, so I think from here on down, low water on the Yukon won't be such a challenge. I know the Yukon River is now higher than when we cruised it in 2003, below the joining of it & the Teslin, because we stopped in 2003 at the site of the Paddle Wheeler Klondike wreck & photographed our boat tied up to it. The water now is several feet higher at the wreck site than then.
We are now tied up to the river bank for the night & have a cool breeze blowing, more blue sky than clouds, temperature in the mid 60's & best of all, few bugs.
There's not a lot of wildlife to be seen, though we did see many eagles earlier today & just before we tied up for the night, a moose wth two very young calves. For once wildlife & being in a remote area are not the primary objectives of this trip, instead it's more the challenge of doing it, the beautiful views & being on the river route, where so little has changed, since the era of the gold rush to Dawson & the big steam powered Paddle Wheelers. Here, it's easy to imagine, meeting one of the those big smoke belching monsters or a flotilla of gold stampeders on every turn of the river.
Day one on the Yukon River, 103 miles.
June 12. All day low water still a challenge. Water levels started dropping more & more the further down we made it from the joining of the Teslin River. We were told tonight, where we are tied up at a Campground near Carmacks, that the river is down three feet from normal at this point. Another three feet of water & we would not have totally grounded today or just scraped over several places with both motors up & me using the duck pole. This has made us wonder if we should continue down river or pull the boat here at Carmacks. It has been a rather harrowing day with many very close calls & constant watch & judgement being made between us on which channel is the right one & even if right on, very little clearance under the boat. We will decide in the morning whether to continue on or not. On the bright side the weather is perfect, the river & about it beautiful & we saw trumpeter swans & another moose & calf.
Louie is camped here at this campground along the river, where he has been waiting for us to arrive this evening & tonight, Jo-Lee & Him cooked up a delicious meal & the campground sold us some very tasty ice cream cones. This is the first place the highway makes contact again with the river since leaving Whitehorse 201 river miles back.
Day two on the Yukon River, 98 miles & 201 total.
June 13. I didn't sleep well last night with my mind working on what we should do, but at least it came up with a plan. Down river 58 miles at Minto, there is another place the boat could be pulled from the river, so we decided to see how it goes to there & if not well, to pull it, so we pulled out of the Carmacks campground area, agreeing to meet Louie there near noon. Coming into the landing at Minto a pieces of wood jammed on the port motor prop, causing the anode to slip around & jam into the prop blades. This took the ends of the blades off, so the stainless props are now back on & the aluminum ones, spares. Other then this, the run to Minto went well enough, that we have decided to continue on down river & hoping it does, because from Minto it's all wilderness for the next 202 miles to Dawson with no road access points.
Tonight we are tied up to the bank by old Fort Selkirk, a living cultural heritage site of the Selkirk First Nation people & the first European trading post for them. The buildings dating back to the late 1800's are in remarkably good shape & show well, what it was like to live here in the past.
On the way down river today, we could see in the river banks, a several inches to a few feet line of white ash. The guide book says this is from a volcanic eruption in this area about 750 AD, that caused the migration out of here of the present Navaho & Apache Nations in Arizona & New Mexico.
We saw a black bear on the hill side below Rink Rapids & a large herd of Dall sheep on the basalt cliffs just upstream from Fort Selkirk. People on the river have been few with only two canoes seen underway since Whitehorse, but several in camps along the river. The biggest change we have noticed since our trip here in 2003 is the expansion of many good camp sites along the river that have fire pits, tables & toilets for those on canoes & kayaks. In 2003 there were very few & only on the very upper river down from Whitehorse.
Day three on the Yukon River, 81 miles today & 282 total.
June 14. The river area was especially scenic for 70 miles or so below Fort Selkirk & it reminded us both of the mountain areas around home with the steep open mountain sides interlaced with a mixture of aspen looking & conifer trees & the low areas, alder with the difference being, aspen for sure & conifer with willow & cotton wood down low at home. Some of the mountains rise 1700 feet above the river & the basalt cliffs up to 500 feet.
Tonight, we are anchored just in from the fast current of the Yukon on Flanigan's Slough, a beautiful tree lined, still water quiet place with few bugs & very good wildlife entertainment. We have beaver swimming around the boat & two moose near. One just up the slough from us trying to figure out what we are, as in between, it totally submerged itself feeding off the bottom. The other, swam completely across the fast 7 mile per hour current of the Yukon, starting up & across the river from us & ending up on our side, down river. When we first spotted it, both of us thought it had to be drift wood, but Jo-Lee said, it looks like a moose & she was right.
Tomorrow, as we continue down river in just two miles, the eroded volcanic ash & glacier waters of the White River, joins the Yukon & then in a few more miles the very large Stewart River. Through out this area are many islands & shifting sand bars & its close to three miles wide in places. The Yukon River is huge where we are now & going to get even bigger very shortly. We have spent several hours this evening re studying satellite photos & charts to further prepare for this section. 60 miles back, when the Selwyn River entered, it changed the color to a muddy grey brown, that is impossible to see into even a inch or so & the White River will add even more white silt, so all decisions on passage directions are made from how the water is reacting to the bottom & terrain around with the trees grounded on water bars perhaps the best indicator & we place the boat, when possible, where the charts suggest. With no navigational markers it's all preparation & past experience to see our way through. If all goes well by early afternoon, we should be meeting up with Louie at Dawson.
On the Yukon River day four, 96 miles & 378 total
June 15. We made the last 80 miles today with white nuckles in several places, but no groundings or boat damage done. During the last 40 miles, I noticed the starboard motor voltage regulator wasn't functioning properly with it putting out over 17 amps & without replacement available, we cannot do the run from Dawson to Eagle & back so this now ends our Yukon River journey. Louie was waiting where we planned in Dawson, so we loaded the boat without difficulty, directly from the river bank near the ferry crossing & we were very pleasantly surprised to find no damage to the boat bottom from our grounding other then scratches in the bottom paint, I had applied before leaving home.
We saw another moose today swimming completely across the river, as it reached the cliff on the far side it tried to get out & couldn't, so swam back across again to it's starting point. They have to be great swimmers to cross this huge swift cold river twice at one time.
I experimented some today with running only one of the twin forty hp motors wide open & was surprised to find with still having 8 gal of water & 20 gallons of fuel aboard & lots of other gear at a elevation of 1250 feet, we could maintain 12.5 mph speed with current of 6.5 mph for a total 18.5 mph downstream & 6 mph upstream at 5200 rpm, with the stainless 12 inch x 10 pitch props.
Last night at 10 PM a skiff came by just off from our boat going up stream with two people aboard & a hour later, back by again, headed back down stream with only one aboard. Today we talked to this guy about our experience of coming down river, as we were taking the boat out of the river. He told us he's been running this rivers since 1962 & this is a extreme low water year for the Yukon River & our making this run at this time in our type boat, without substantial damage was a "job very well done".
On the Yukon River day Five, 80 miles & 460 total.