SE Alaska & the Yukon River 2016

May 9. Last minute weather update yesterday kept us at the dock. Today we're getting conflicting weather forecast wth NOAA VFH calling for small craft warning for the northern Lynn Canal all day & NOAA marine spot saying winds are supposed to Chang from north to south &waves drop to a foot for awhile then pick back up from the south later. We were hoping to slip up the Canal during the change, but for now after fighting north winds that are supposed to be south, we are anchored in a nook waiting for the change to south & only about 13 miles out. Eagles & whales close about are making the waiting fun with Louie showing much exuberance. At the worst after the show here if the wind doesn't die down or shift to the south we'll have to head back & spend another night at Auke Bay.
 
We remember the bus systems in both Juneau and Ketchikan. After riding on both systems several times, we were convinced they hired their drivers from NASCAR wannabe's!

Best,
Casey&Mary
Sussex, NB and northbound....
 
June 9 continuation. Even with the all day small craft warning for the Northern Lynn Canal, we made It back to Skagway, Alaska this afternoon with a very brisk south wind on our stern. This time it worked out nicely for us just as planned with the major north to south wind change arriving & the temporary calm that came with it when really needed, south of Eldrige Rock a rather notorious stretch of the Lynn Canal that can be quite intimidating even on a good day.

With us now back in Skagway, Alaska, where we departed on the water, 52 days ago for this years SE Alaska's adventure, it is now ended & we will in the morning, have the boat back on the trailer & ready to drive to Whitehorse the Capital of the Yukon Territory & our launching point for phase two on the Yukon River. With us not having access to the Internet now, this if shared won't be, until after it is ended & we are safely back home in Wyoming. The plan for now is to drive to Whitehorse, launch the boat & Jo-Lee & I head down river 460 miles to Dawson, while Louie drives the truck & trailer there. Then the the three of us will continue down river another 160 miles to Eagle , Alaska & then back up river to Dawson, followed by the long & enjoyable road trip to Amboy, Washington to take Louie home & then us back to Wyoming.

On the water day 52, 87 miles today & 1592 miles total this year. Total now cruised in this area 10,599 miles.
 
Jay,
We will still be following you via tracking--
Have a great time on the Yukon--and the Eagle River and Back should be a great extensive of the adventure!
 
Hi Jay

Not sure if I'll run into you in Whitehorse. But the weather has been quite nice the past week here. Based on the latest hydro-metric data for the Yukon River, the upper Yukon down to Carmacks has been trending downward, while in the area of the White River and Dawson it has been going up. Have a safe trip and enjoy our beautiful Yukon River.
 
Jay, What a great trip and only half done. You are making me drool all over my laptop. (I tried a bucket- but it wouldn't do th I-net connection :roll:

Amboy :D Bet not many Brats have been there. I spent half a life time just up the hill from there one day --- May 18, 1981 . . . . . Mt St Helens Day. The out come was way better than it was supposed to/ could have gone. I was actually headed up to the other side of the mountain, but my Guardian Angle saw to it I was waylaid a bit. A couple of hours different and I would have been looking up at the bottom of Spirit Lake. Kind of glad I missed that part.

You two be safe, and keep the log. Looking forward to the post trip post.

Harvey
SleepyC:moon

IMGP1872.thumb.jpg
 
June 11. Yesterday, we arrived at Whitehorse from Skagway. On the way Canadian Customs gave us a search at the border & then let us enter after fining nothing awry. First thing upon arrival in Whitehorse, we checked out the launch site & found as expected the water very low & just barely possible to get the boat off the trailer & then a bar to cross with engines up using a pole to access the river channel. With that possibility set, we did our last minute shopping at Walmart & Peter who had given us much useful river information & said we could store the pickup & trailer at his place before Louie agreed to drive to it to Dawson instead, came down down to the Walmart parking lot & we had a good gab fest with him sharing more helpful information for us on the river & Louie's road trip.

We spent the night at the Walmart parking lot & then up at 5 AM to make for the launch site. It took some time & effort to get the boat off, but we managed followed by working the boat out to the channel with the duck pole. With the river so extremely low it took all our years of experience & some added luck to keep it in the main channel & when off the least bit, to quickly get motors off & up, to pole with the current over the sand & gravel bars. Several times & especially when entering Lake Labarge the boat bottom was making contact & we came very close to some solid groundings. We were extremely pleased to see the level change from the low level to actually above our 2003 trip level, when at the 90 mile mark we reached the inflow of the Teslin River into the Yukon. Fortunately the Teslin was running really high, so I think from here on down, low water on the Yukon won't be such a challenge. I know the Yukon River is now higher than when we cruised it in 2003, below the joining of it & the Teslin, because we stopped in 2003 at the site of the Paddle Wheeler Klondike wreck & photographed our boat tied up to it. The water now is several feet higher at the wreck site than then.

We are now tied up to the river bank for the night & have a cool breeze blowing, more blue sky than clouds, temperature in the mid 60's & best of all, few bugs.

There's not a lot of wildlife to be seen, though we did see many eagles earlier today & just before we tied up for the night, a moose wth two very young calves. For once wildlife & being in a remote area are not the primary objectives of this trip, instead it's more the challenge of doing it, the beautiful views & being on the river route, where so little has changed, since the era of the gold rush to Dawson & the big steam powered Paddle Wheelers. Here, it's easy to imagine, meeting one of the those big smoke belching monsters or a flotilla of gold stampeders on every turn of the river.

Day one on the Yukon River, 103 miles.

June 12. All day low water still a challenge. Water levels started dropping more & more the further down we made it from the joining of the Teslin River. We were told tonight, where we are tied up at a Campground near Carmacks, that the river is down three feet from normal at this point. Another three feet of water & we would not have totally grounded today or just scraped over several places with both motors up & me using the duck pole. This has made us wonder if we should continue down river or pull the boat here at Carmacks. It has been a rather harrowing day with many very close calls & constant watch & judgement being made between us on which channel is the right one & even if right on, very little clearance under the boat. We will decide in the morning whether to continue on or not. On the bright side the weather is perfect, the river & about it beautiful & we saw trumpeter swans & another moose & calf.

Louie is camped here at this campground along the river, where he has been waiting for us to arrive this evening & tonight, Jo-Lee & Him cooked up a delicious meal & the campground sold us some very tasty ice cream cones. This is the first place the highway makes contact again with the river since leaving Whitehorse 201 river miles back.

Day two on the Yukon River, 98 miles & 201 total.

June 13. I didn't sleep well last night with my mind working on what we should do, but at least it came up with a plan. Down river 58 miles at Minto, there is another place the boat could be pulled from the river, so we decided to see how it goes to there & if not well, to pull it, so we pulled out of the Carmacks campground area, agreeing to meet Louie there near noon. Coming into the landing at Minto a pieces of wood jammed on the port motor prop, causing the anode to slip around & jam into the prop blades. This took the ends of the blades off, so the stainless props are now back on & the aluminum ones, spares. Other then this, the run to Minto went well enough, that we have decided to continue on down river & hoping it does, because from Minto it's all wilderness for the next 202 miles to Dawson with no road access points.

Tonight we are tied up to the bank by old Fort Selkirk, a living cultural heritage site of the Selkirk First Nation people & the first European trading post for them. The buildings dating back to the late 1800's are in remarkably good shape & show well, what it was like to live here in the past.

On the way down river today, we could see in the river banks, a several inches to a few feet line of white ash. The guide book says this is from a volcanic eruption in this area about 750 AD, that caused the migration out of here of the present Navaho & Apache Nations in Arizona & New Mexico.

We saw a black bear on the hill side below Rink Rapids & a large herd of Dall sheep on the basalt cliffs just upstream from Fort Selkirk. People on the river have been few with only two canoes seen underway since Whitehorse, but several in camps along the river. The biggest change we have noticed since our trip here in 2003 is the expansion of many good camp sites along the river that have fire pits, tables & toilets for those on canoes & kayaks. In 2003 there were very few & only on the very upper river down from Whitehorse.

Day three on the Yukon River, 81 miles today & 282 total.

June 14. The river area was especially scenic for 70 miles or so below Fort Selkirk & it reminded us both of the mountain areas around home with the steep open mountain sides interlaced with a mixture of aspen looking & conifer trees & the low areas, alder with the difference being, aspen for sure & conifer with willow & cotton wood down low at home. Some of the mountains rise 1700 feet above the river & the basalt cliffs up to 500 feet.

Tonight, we are anchored just in from the fast current of the Yukon on Flanigan's Slough, a beautiful tree lined, still water quiet place with few bugs & very good wildlife entertainment. We have beaver swimming around the boat & two moose near. One just up the slough from us trying to figure out what we are, as in between, it totally submerged itself feeding off the bottom. The other, swam completely across the fast 7 mile per hour current of the Yukon, starting up & across the river from us & ending up on our side, down river. When we first spotted it, both of us thought it had to be drift wood, but Jo-Lee said, it looks like a moose & she was right.

Tomorrow, as we continue down river in just two miles, the eroded volcanic ash & glacier waters of the White River, joins the Yukon & then in a few more miles the very large Stewart River. Through out this area are many islands & shifting sand bars & its close to three miles wide in places. The Yukon River is huge where we are now & going to get even bigger very shortly. We have spent several hours this evening re studying satellite photos & charts to further prepare for this section. 60 miles back, when the Selwyn River entered, it changed the color to a muddy grey brown, that is impossible to see into even a inch or so & the White River will add even more white silt, so all decisions on passage directions are made from how the water is reacting to the bottom & terrain around with the trees grounded on water bars perhaps the best indicator & we place the boat, when possible, where the charts suggest. With no navigational markers it's all preparation & past experience to see our way through. If all goes well by early afternoon, we should be meeting up with Louie at Dawson.

On the Yukon River day four, 96 miles & 378 total

June 15. We made the last 80 miles today with white nuckles in several places, but no groundings or boat damage done. During the last 40 miles, I noticed the starboard motor voltage regulator wasn't functioning properly with it putting out over 17 amps & without replacement available, we cannot do the run from Dawson to Eagle & back so this now ends our Yukon River journey. Louie was waiting where we planned in Dawson, so we loaded the boat without difficulty, directly from the river bank near the ferry crossing & we were very pleasantly surprised to find no damage to the boat bottom from our grounding other then scratches in the bottom paint, I had applied before leaving home.

We saw another moose today swimming completely across the river, as it reached the cliff on the far side it tried to get out & couldn't, so swam back across again to it's starting point. They have to be great swimmers to cross this huge swift cold river twice at one time.

I experimented some today with running only one of the twin forty hp motors wide open & was surprised to find with still having 8 gal of water & 20 gallons of fuel aboard & lots of other gear at a elevation of 1250 feet, we could maintain 12.5 mph speed with current of 6.5 mph for a total 18.5 mph downstream & 6 mph upstream at 5200 rpm, with the stainless 12 inch x 10 pitch props.

Last night at 10 PM a skiff came by just off from our boat going up stream with two people aboard & a hour later, back by again, headed back down stream with only one aboard. Today we talked to this guy about our experience of coming down river, as we were taking the boat out of the river. He told us he's been running this rivers since 1962 & this is a extreme low water year for the Yukon River & our making this run at this time in our type boat, without substantial damage was a "job very well done".

On the Yukon River day Five, 80 miles & 460 total.
 
Now that you've done the Yukon River from Whitehorse to Dawson, I'm sure you're wondering how do people paddle that distance in The Yukon River Quest in under 40 hrs. Grant you most teams do it in under 55hrs. but I still find it an amazing accomplishment. You should stick around till the 29th when the race starts in Whitehorse to watch the 94 teams head off.
 
Jay, thanks for catching us up. What a trip. I found this part interesting too:

I experimented some today with running only one of the twin forty hp motors wide open & was surprised to find with still having 8 gal of water & 20 gallons of fuel aboard & lots of other gear at a elevation of 1250 feet, we could maintain 12.5 mph speed with current of 6.5 mph for a total 18.5 mph downstream & 6 mph upstream at 5200 rpm, with the stainless 12 inch x 10 pitch props.

I think I'd be scared spitless to be going that fast, downstream in a river, but interesting that you can get it up to that speed on a single OB.

Interesting about the moose feeding totally submerged too.

Stay safe and looking forward to (as PH would have said) the Rest of the Story.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

IMG_2044_sized_1.thumb.jpg
 
Indeed very well done! Shows the competence that you and Jo-Lee possess the skills and determination to make this difficult river run!

Cannot wait to see the photos when you get back to civilization! There were several of us wondering how you were dong,with the river conditions! Glad to see you made it with minimal issues--and a lot of skill!
 
AJF, with the average current running 7 mph & us going 12 mph, we would gain very slowly on a canoe we were over taking, so I can see how a well fit person with good knowledge of the river does it, but for sure it is a tremendous test of endurance & river knowledge. If it had only been a few days to wait, we would have loved to see them off. This year with the low water it's going to be extra tough on them. We came up behind one just as we entered one of the worst stretches of shallow braided current & they like us were searching for a channel deep enough too. I can see after watching this lone guy in a canoe, that a bad choice could easily put him in a world of hurt.

Harvey, I enjoy & appreciate your comments. On another note, I have been getting much better at using the twins for boat control & was also very surprised at how well the single 40 hp motor was performing with the lighter boat.

Bob, your comment was appreciated & considered as very high praise from one whom I have the deepest respect.
 
Glad you made it in one piece, with a good time to boot. I was a little concerned that I noted you heading down the Cassiar Hwy before I thought you'd have made it to Eagle. Good move not to push it though since there is a lot of wilderness out there and no spare parts all the way out to the Bering Sea. It was sure good to see you guys up here again this spring.
 
Hunkydory":1tkzl8r7 said:
NewMoon":1tkzl8r7 said:
Hi Jay,

Any chance you could post that advice on rounding Cape Omanney? (or have you already done so and I missed it?)
Richard, I'm glad to & if off any, I hope Kevin will correct me & add to. Start at slack or just into a ebb tide with winds less then 15 knots, best if from the easterly direction & west & northwest the worst. Stay the closer the better to the cape when rounding & not go outside Wooden Island. The tide rips can be bad all the way up to Redfish Bay. The tide rips & big waves are mainly created by the normally strong current going north by the tip of the cape & continuing up the west coast of Baranof Island. Add a flooding tide to this against a west or northwest wind & huge short spaced waves are stacked up. The northwest wind at Port Alexander can be blowing only 15 knots & at the same time due to the shape of the Cape on the west side 40 knots.

By going around Cape Ommaney from Port Alexander to Sitka & leaving at the suggested ebb tide the waves are more flattened out & you still get the extra speed boost of the current all the way to Sitka. Coming from the north it would all be much the same for avoiding the rips, but you must then go against the current. My charts show tide rips between the Cape & Wooden Island, where it's actually best to go, but just stay very close to the Cape side not Wooden Island. I've had some fisherman describe this as the mink trail around the Cape.

Jay
 
We returned to home here in Cokeville, Wy today with a road trip of 2870 miles from Dawson City, Yukon Territory with a detour to Amboy, Washington, to return Louie to his home & us a good visit with Jo-Lee's sister & other relatives.

This trip included 2062 miles with the boat in the water & 5787 miles on the road & all 67 nights we were gone from home were spent on the boat.

The Yukon River part of this adventure was by far the most challenging boating experience we have engaged in & this includes all our past Alaska cruises & time spent on our small Rubber inflatable exploring rivers & lakes in the Yukon & Northwest Territories & British Columbia. In a jet boat it would have been a breeze, but in a 22 foot prop driven C-Dory with the low waters encountered, a experience very hard to describe to one not there. The worst area was the first 200 hundred miles down from Whitehorse, a area we breezed both up & down in 2003 with almost zero prior experience at that time operating a boat type like our 22 foot C-Dory. The difference being, the very low water making correct boat placement in the River, almost all the time a must. Even with our now 14 boating seasons experience in our CD 22, going up stream, like we did in 2003, this year would have been impossible for us to do. In the planning of this River run, we thought the section down from Fort Selkirk would be by far the most difficult & it was difficult, but no where near, as the shallow water upper end. It's a experience, we would not repeat in the same water conditions, but I'm very glad, we went ahead this year. It's one of those experiences, that will be lived over many times in our minds, when the real ones, we can no longer do.

The ocean part of this trip beat our best expectations & even with such a early start turned into one of the very best cruises we have made.
 
The river levels peaked around June 17th and have been going down since then. For this year your timing for doing the river was pretty good. I'll be curious to see how the YRQ racers find the river after they get to Dawson.
 
Jay and Joleen,

Glad to hear you are home safe. What a trip. Will be looking forward to seeing the photos and hearing more of your story, in person would do, somewhere down the line.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

Friends_Cal_09_10_Oct.thumb.jpg
 
Back
Top