Scary trailer incident

cemiii

New member
My 22 angler sits on a roller EZ loader. There is a double roller bow stop, an electric winch, a short safety chain, 4' side centering guides, a 2" rear ratcheting hold down strap that goes over the rear end and two rear tow eye ratchet straps that hold the boat forward on the trailer.

Wednesday on the way down from a mountain lake I hit a pothole and the boat bounced and almost felt as if the trailer was swaying out of control. I regained control and continued on slowly, it still felt awkward so I pulled over at the first safe pull out. The first thing I noticed is that the 2 inch over strap had snapped. I tied it off and proceeded back to the truck. It was only the big black stripes on the side of the boat that alerted me to the fact the front end had jumped up off the bow stop and the entire boat had moved forward almost 30". Going back to the rear, sure enough, the rear rollers were completely off the boat and up under the motors and in the front the safety chain clamp had broken, though the winch cable was in tact.

With a couple shackles and chain I was able to secure it enough to limp back slowly to the lake, refloat the boat and straighten things out enough to be able to get home. Except for a couple fairly significant (but repairable) gel coat gouges and a broken strap and clamp there was not any significant property damage, only aging of the heart.

I think the electric winch wire gave enough slippage in the cable to allow the front to jump off the bow stop.

But the lessons learned from what could have been really ugly are:

1.) If it doesn't feel right, stop as soon as you safely can and do a detailed observation and re-examination until you know the cause.

2.)Have plenty of emergency stuff with you, chain, chocks, cable ties, flares, etc.

Though I dearly love the ease of launching from a roller trailer, I think my next trailer may very well have bunks and maybe a manual winch. In the interim, I will certainly shorten my safety chain , beef up the connectors and put another ratchet strap hold down from the bow eye to the trailer to stop any jumping.

Other suggestions appreciated.

Chris
 
Just one thought, Every so often pitch the ratchet tie downs as
they get dry rot and die. Don't know if its sun, water or weather but
they do die. I usually use them for a lesser role. Quality ratchets
are the way to go, spend more get more. The Air Force has real good
ones but oh so ugly... Bob Heselberg Eatonville Wa
 
Most of the electric winch makers put a disclaimer in there manual saying it is not to be used as the primary tie down device. That got to be a scarry feeling having your pride and joy come lose. Have seen a couple boats that have come off and gone skidding down the freeway.
 
cemiii":1x989b6n said:
My 22 angler sits on a roller EZ loader. There is a double roller bow stop, an electric winch, a short safety chain, 4' side centering guides, a 2" rear ratcheting hold down strap that goes over the rear end and two rear tow eye ratchet straps that hold the boat forward on the trailer.
Chris, without seeing it, I'm guessing, but it may be that those rear ratchet straps should be set over the sides of the boat, not the end.

I am not clear on what caused the safety chain failure. Mine would have to pull through some quarter inch steel plate, which captures the chain links.

I agree ratchet straps are a compromise. Most boat shops sell serious two-inch-wide cross-straps with hooks on the ends to index with the tie-down holes on the trailer, having a cam-action center lever which in one operation tightens the strap across the entire rear of the boat. You might want two of these, depending.

Scary incident!
 
Scarey stuff! I have three words for roller trailers..."Just say no." I had a bad experience with one.

We tie down the boat by hooking straps through the stern eyes to the corners of the trailer...one per side... instead of one big strap over the gunwales. We have a manual winch and also have eight foot side guides with I really like. They really help get on the trailer when the wind is blowing and I like the extra lateral support they provide.

Funny that I am most concerned about a boat accident while on the trailer, not on the water. You got lucky...glad you did! Lessons we can all benefit from.

Rick
 
Wow, Scary. Sure glad no one was hurt. I'm with you on the roller VS bunk trailer. I've never seen a boat slide of a bunk system. I've seen three and have a friend who has had it happen to him on the rollers. No rollers for me, thanks. Fortunately I rarely tow more than about 3 miles at 35mph or less, but for the longer trips I am adding an "over bow deck 4" heavy duty web strap like I use on the stern now.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
416rigby":s4g7rn9d said:
Funny that I am most concerned about a boat accident while on the trailer, not on the water. You got lucky...glad you did! Lessons we can all benefit from. Rick

Me too, Rick. One of the many "Aggressive Drivers" out there could ruin your day far and away faster than a speeding clueless ski boat helmsman. I prefer fishtails at sea not on the highway.... :crook

We have almost the same setup as yours except I switched to a two speed manual winch. Also added Sea Wolf's "boarding ladder" up forward for launch safety. I find the sideboards handy for the same reasons though lateral support is minimal here.

By the way, the Coasties have their RIB type boats just down the pier from me and I've got an E6 who never fails to stop and admire the Jenny B on his way to work. Heh heh, you guys do have an eye for solid little boats.

Don
 
Thank you for the feedback.


The safety clip on the chain was a pretty heavy SS model but it sprang enough to break out the spring closure part and jump off. The rear ratchet ties do go around the rear corners. While it seems the system is ok to protect the boat from backward roll-off, their is very little to stop the boat from going forward except the very narrow 4" bow stop. I'm going to switch the stop rollers to the Y type, but I'm not very confident in some rubber Y keeping thing in place much better. I'm switching over from a fast clip safety latch to the kind you screw together to make a complete circle (not as convenient but probably worth the extra time). I'm hoping the ratchet tie holding the bow tightly down will keep the boat secure in the bow stop. I'm thinking about keeping the electric for the convenience, but maybe adding a manual on the upright as I've lost some confidence in the electric.

Chris
 
Everyone's analsis of what went wrong is well & good. However, sometimes we forget to focus on certain things done correctly. Here we see a clear case of a bad accident avoided because the driver trusted his sixth sence & stoped to check. I hate to say it but I know a lot of people that would have just waited til the next gas stop to look at the boat.

By the way I have never trusted trailers without bunks
 
I had an electric winch on my trailer for awhile but the clutch mechanism would never keep the boat tight against the bow stop. For awhile, I used an additional ratcheting strap to pull the bow forward and down (wrapped it around the trailer and hooked into the bow eye). Others have suggested a turnbuckle that is attached to the trailer and used to tighten up the bow eye after loading.
However, for me the best thing I did was to get rid of the electric winch and replace it with a 2-speed Fulton mechanical winch. With a 22' boat, the mechanical winch is easy to use, faster than the electric and and there's no slippage once it's tight.
 
I also suspect that the flat bottom nature of the C-Dory may not be as well conducive to roller bunks as a Deep V which would tend to stay much better laterally centered due to the pivoting of the roller blocks.

Chris
 
cemiii":2h2jxnin said:
Roger, what model is your Fulton?

Chris

I bought the T-3205. That's probably overkill for a 22' CD but I'd rather have too much than too little capacity. It works like a charm and I've never regretted getting rid of the electric. In addition to the problem mentioned above, other downsides to the electric include another set of electric connections to maintain (both the cable and the connector at the tow vehicle) AND the inability to tow with another vehicle that is not equipped with the same connector to power the winch (unless you carry a spare cable with a female connector on the end and battery clips on the other). If your tow vehicle is ever in the shop or if you left the lights on or it won't start for some other reason, it's nice to be able to get the boat on the trailer manually and to tow it away with a friend's vehicle
 
Good point on stopping to check if you get that bad feeling!

I wonder about the cost and practicality of converting from rollers to bunks? It may be more cost effective to just move up to a tandem axle with bunks. Also, I've seen side guides for the bow...wonder how effective they'd be in preventing lots of forward movement like you experienced.
 
Glad to hear everything turned out well! :thup

I'll address some of the concerns brought up in the thread. It doesn't make any difference whether it's a roller trailer or a bunk trailer; if the boat is in the air there's no more or less friction from either system. The thing to learn from this is that boats bounce; they do not always stay hunkered down on the trailer with their full weight. This is why I think transom straps are a joke and do little more than to make folks feel good about having the boat "tied down" (some, but very few, do get the right anlge but darn few). How can something that has say a 45-degree angle hold anything "down"? You'll never, ever see a flatbed load being held onto the trailer with angled straps (there may be some for secondary control but never as the main "hold the stuff on the trailer" straps).

And the average boat tie down strap, even over the gunnels is all but useless. The name brand 2" straps are generally rated to a 1200 pound working load. Hmmm...let's see...a 3,000 hull hits a big hole and gets a 2G acceleration...6,000 pounds. Heck ya, that strap ought to hold...not (and if it does hold it stretchs like crazy so the next pothole gets it).

So, if you tie down the boat properly (like it would be tied onto a flat bed if it were going cross-country) it wouldn't make one iota difference whether it was sitting on a roller trailer or a bunk trailer. It only makes a difference in marginal situations where it might move on the rollers (since they do roll) and wouldn't move on the bunks...but that's running really close to the edge. Bottom line...if it moved on the trailer...it wasn't secured properly. You can't do it with off the shelf boat trailer garbage unless you want to double and triple up. You need to get some real load straps for trucks and also one that holds the bow to the trailer since almost no winch stand is up to the task of stopping a heavy boat under extreme conditions.

[I don't do all this stuff all the time either...though I should. I do know if the boat shifts it's my fault for not doing it right and I don't expect the wimpy items generally available to do much more than make me feel good.]
 
Da Nag":1rsjo12u said:
cemiii":1rsjo12u said:
Roger, what model is your Fulton?

Here's a thread discussing two-speed winches, and here's a post with links to the model many of us have.

Hmmm... the link to the thread you posted links to this thread and the URL in the other post is out of date. I think the thread to which is intended to link is this one.
Good thing YOU can edit you posts after 30 mins have passed :wink: (and when you do, feel free to delete this smart assed comment).
 
i am spending this weekend rebuilding my trailer, when i got the boat the trailer had not been used in 12 years and was sitting in the sand on a beach in oregon, needless to say it was in horrible shape, i had no bunks on it, and the wheels, hubs, springs, and hardware were in as bad of shape as they could be i think, i put new main bunks on it and side bunks already, and rewired it, just to get out on the water and see what the boat was like, so i could set it up how i want it this winter, well i launched the boat and when i pulled the truck out on three of my four wheels and hubs came with it. Im pretty sure a baring heated up and when it hit the water, it got cold and snapped the whole hub off, had to pull the axil and limp home, so now im putting all new axils, wheels, hubs, brakes, and springs on it. Im gonna be pulling the boat off the trailer, while its off id like to make the trailer perfect for the boat, i think im gonna extend the tongue about 18 inches so the boat doesnt stick off the back off the trailer anymore (does anyone elses boat hang off the back), and im considering side bunks that taper in the front to help land the boat, does anyone have these, where did you put them, right now i have two 10' bunks on the bottom and two 4' bunks on the sides mounted low and to the back, any ideas on the perfect bunk set up
 
Les,
Your comments about tieing the load onto the trailer make a lot of sense. The transom tie downs on my boat are a joke. Relying on the winch cable alone to keep the bow in place and the winch post to keep the boat from moving forward if unusual loads are intoduced does seem overly optimistic. Can you be more specific as to what tie down gear should be used? At what points on the trailer do you recommend securing the boat? Where can one find the right gear to properly tie our 3000 lb boats to their trailers? Thank you for opening my mind to this subject.
Regards,
Mike "Levity"
 
I'm curious if it was a tandem two axle trailer or single axle? Yes, potholes happen, but reduced speed and two axles can help reduce the "hop". CW
 
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