Rule Float switch

Cats Meow

New member
The "Rule" Rule-A-Matic automatic float switch in my shower sump pump seems to have failed. 24 ohms while in normal (dry) mode. This causes the small 800 gph pump to run at a slow speed all the time. At least while the main DC switch is on. It is only 8 months old. Do these things fail often? Should I have a spare? Has anyone needed to replace there Rule float switch's?

Cats Meow
 
Never looked at mine, we don't use the shower so that pump only runs when I winterize our CAT. Does it have a separate float switch or is it integral with the pump as on the bilge pumps? I have looked at it through the hole under the sink but doubt if I could open the top to get to it. My arms arent that long!

If it's integral, may just be stuck. If you can reach it, pick up the pump and jiggle it. If you can measure resistance, you may already know. :wink:

Charlie
 
I'm thinking that the newer switches, just like the old, are not repairable, so if it's not just stuck, it needs replacement. About all you can do is jiggle it, and if it doesn't become unstuck, replace it. It should have only a very few Ohms resistance when switched on, and then very high resistance (open circuit) when in the up/float position.

Maybe the boat manufacturer (if the boat is only 8 months old), or the marine hardware store (called a chandelery in the old days), or, lastly, the pump manufacturer (probably the ITT/Jabsco/Rule crew), will give you a new one if you present your case properly (and you get lucky)!

The pumps used in bilges, live wells, showers, and some other applications share a lot in terms of design and even parts. Live well pumps are often just bilge pumps with an adapter on the bottom screen area to supply them from an incoming hose. Shower pumps and floats are likewise similar to bilge pumps, with a few modifications.

The old switches were often mercury based, wherein liquid mercury flowed back and forth in a horizontal glass cylinder with two contacts at one end, and all this within the float body.

Environmental concern with the residual mercury after the switch was disposed of, led to the banning of mercury switches, and they were replaced by mechanical ones with a metal ball that rolled back and forth in a plastic cylinder within the float, that activated a mechanical switch at one end.

It may be time to design a better mousetrap, Mr. Emerson!

Good Luck!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
We had a problem with the showerbox in our CD-25 last year when we pulled it out of storage. Turns out that it wasn't the pump or the float switch, but the rubber gizmo that keeps water from back-flowing. I opened that up, lubed it, and it worked fine. This time when we put it in storage, Joan put some of the RV antifreeze pink stuff in there; I think it may have some lubricating properties - no problem.
 
When we at the FH CBGT Russ (Sportner) said his wife Toni heard something running and she traced the sound to the pump going non-stop. Good ears! I pulled the fuse there, as the pump would not shut off. Upon returning, I opened the box and jiggled the float and it stopped; until it started again. :roll: I either need to replace it or contact the factory and see if they'll be willing to provide a new one.
 
Well I guess I got lucky. I sent a technical inquiry to the manufacturer, Rule, mostly to ask about the resistance values of the switch inside the float and called Master Marine whom I purchased the Tomcat from. Both responded by sending me a new switch at no cost. Both did confirm that the switch had probably failed. You are correct in that mercury is no longer used in these switches and once a small amount of moisture enters the switch area corrosion will cause the contacts within the switch to fail which is probably what happened in my case. I do have to say I am pleased with the response I received from Master Marine and the switch manufacturer Rule. Also If you have never checked this box under the sink you may want to. It contains the filter that needs to be cleaned every so often. My filter was full of boat construction material and who knows what. By the way the sump box is held down by four screws two of which you can access. The other two, out of sight, you do not need to get to. You can pull the box away from them as they are only used as guides.
 
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