Rub rail

M

Molly Brown

Member
Hello all Brats:
Had a few of the rivets holding my rub rail on, break loose. I peeled back the rubber insert and drilled out the broken rivets. Seemed simple enough to locate some aluminum rivets and replace them. I expected they each had their own hole,that is until I looked behind the rub rail. There is a slot cut the full length of the hull into which the rivets are supposed to go into. The problem is finding rivets that mushroom large enough to grab the backside of the hull as this slot is rather wide. Needless to say, I've exhausted all potential rivet supplies locally and have yet to find any that will work. Looking for your input before I take it down to the local boat repair company and just let them fixe it.
 
From my own exasperating experience with the rubrail I would guess you are going to have to find some large washers to place over the rivets. I would guess these rivets have been failing right from the beginning in the 80's. A permanent fix should have been instituted before production of a TomCat. Physically, there are pretty easy fixes out there if you have the time, mentally it is maddening.
 
Track down the length of the hull is a quarter inch wide. Placing the rail against the hull, depth penetration is 1 inch. Rub rail holes fit a 15/64th to 1/4 inch drill bit except the last one for the end cap which is just a hair bigger than a 7/32nd bit size. The washer idea had merit though I'd considered something similar. The problem is keeping it all lined up as I have the last 10 rivet holes to replace. Getting them in the slot. lined up and vertical to accept a rivet is an exercise in frustration. The old rivets which I saved, appear to form a curled mushroom look. Only the very top and bottom of this cap grabs the backside of the hull. Very odd design.
P.S. This was not a result of hitting a dock that I'm aware of. It just appears that after 6 years they corroded or weakened to the point of failure. I'd redo the whole thing if the attachment method was more conducive to "do it yourself" but at this point it feels like more time and effort than I have. Still working for a living.
 
In between piddlin' around with this project, visiting every hardware, boat and home center, I've been looking at rivet sites until my vision goes blurry. Checked your site out half reluctantly and believe I've discovered what I need. It's called a "T style blind rivet". Seems to really flare out. I'll check this out. Thanks.
 
I had the same problem with a couple of my camper back grommets which are riveted, so I cleaned up the holes and filled with epoxy putty, then drilled and re-riveted the grommets. Don’t remember what the putty is called just that it’s the stuff you hack off a chunk, kneed for a bit, than apply; sets up like steel.
 
I wonder if these were 3/16" rivets which worked the glass and enlarged the hole?

If you have to use 1/4" rivets you will have to borrow, rent or by a tool which costs close to $150. Also you might consider putting in SS rivets instead of aluminum--and putting a little 5200 on the rivet as you apply it. I have often used washers on the back side of rivets on fiberglass, and had the Admiral backing up the rivets and keeping the washers in place (with a little 5200 on them). I agree that one of the epoxy putties would do well on the back side sealing them.
 
Bob has some good advice. Those T-rivets split into 4 fingers which are not tied together, whilst a washer gives equal bearing all the way around the hole/slot/ whatever you have.

Now, Bob, don't get excited, this is good advice JUST THIS TIME.

Boris
 
Hi Molly.
My rub rail was pulled away from the boat when it was dockside and an idiot ran past the dock at full speed and caused a wake that made my boat drop under the dock then come up and the rub rail was pulled away.
I've had it repaired at EQ Marine on Whidbey Island, Wa and they are really great people and would probably sell you the rivets you need. They are on the internet and I can recommend them. Good luck.
Bryant
 
I knew you all would provide great advice and thank each of you for your responses. If these rivets went into a hole I wouldn't have this problem. The issues is this linear slot down the hull and no access to the back side. Regardless of what rivet I use it will only grab the very top and bottom of the slot. I'm leaning towards the putty that was suggested, cram it in there, let it set up, place the rail against the hull, mark and drill. In the long run I think it will provide a better hold. The rivet size is an issue as the old ones were rather large with a head to match. I'll probably go with 3/16'' and use a washer under it. Such a simple job got to be very frustrating and I should have requested the forum's advice much sooner. The consistent posters should start a consulting group and with such diverse experience your success is guaranteed! Thanks again to all.
 
The question is, cann''t you drill hole all of the way through? I don't know about the Tom Cat 24's, but many of the boats seem to have had rivets which went through the hull, then were epoxied over later. There are times when one has to cut access holes to get to in accessable areas, and then install items like boxes, access plates etc if necessary to give a good cosmetic effect.
 
Yes, you can drill all the way through. As I said, I had EQ Marine fix mine and what they did was pull out the rubber strip, drill through, replace the rivets and then replace the rubber strip in the rub rail. Then you go into the cabin or where ever the rivets are and cover them with Marine Tex or any other putty you like or just leave them bare. It's actually pretty easy.
Bryant
 
I can't believe they would actually cut a slot down the side of the hull in the first place to simply make for easier rivet installation.

Doesn't this weaken the hull along the cut line?

To me, it kind of like building a bridge and then cutting the girders and/or or cables part way through to conveniently hide a telephone cable just so it won't show and be easier to install.

Maybe we should all cut out a big "U" shaped section around the motor mounting holes in our transoms so as to make it easier to remove and replace the engines without having to take out the mounting bolts?

Must have been planned and executed by a Buzzawl & Bighammer Engineering School Graduate, no?

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
As far as I know there is no slot cut in the hull. There is a rub rail attached and the rub rail has a slot for the rubber strip to fit into. The rivets are under the rubber in the slot of the aluminum rubrail. You pull the rubber strip out, re attach the rivets, put the rubber strip back in and you are back in business.
 
I also have a few rivets that have worked their way out of their holes and the rub rail is now separated from the hull in those places. I plan to drill out all of the rivets, at least in the forward half of the hull. Then through-drill the holes and replace with SS bolts (flathead), washers and nylock nuts as many others have done. I'll use a poly sealant as I'm assembling and smooth it on the inside.

If I find the original holes are too enlarged, I plan to fill with epoxy and re-drill before using the bolts/sealant.

I wonder why this hasn't been mentioned?
 
I don't know why the factory uses rivets rather than through bolts. I guess it's a cost issue. Through bolts are much better and if you don't want to do it yourself you can have it done for not much money. EQ did a great job for me on the part of my rub rail that had pulled away.
Bryant
 
Bryant":3uybu5q1 said:
I don't know why the factory uses rivets rather than through bolts. I guess it's a cost issue. <Some deleted>
Bryant
Click to expand...

Pop rivets take one person, machine screws two.

Ever use a pneumatic riveter? Takes about five seconds per rivet!!!

The culprits:

246909_300.jpg

pr36.jpg

la437_eu_3_16_pop_riveter_main.jpg


Joe. :teeth :thup
 
I'll check into going all the way thru. Believe it or not, on this boat,under the rub rail, is a slot, no holes. This slot runs from bow to stern. It's as if you took your radial saw, set it on a shallow cut, then just run down the side. Off to work.
 
I have not had the opportunity to check out other size C-Dorys, but on the 22' Cruiser, all of the rivets were accessible from the inside. I have posted pictures of my project to replace all of the rivets with SS bolts, washers and nyloc nuts. Probably the most difficult part was finding the right size and type of thin wall pipe to cut through the lump of 5200 that was put over the inside of the rivet before splatter coating the interior.
This project does require 2 people for re-installing the rail. Outside person (me) put the tip of the caulking gun with 4200 into the hole through the rail and squeezed until the inside person (my brother) could see the caulk coming through. I then continued squeezing as I was pulling the gun out so as to get caulk into the space between the backside of the rail and the hull.(about 1/8") I then pushed the screw through the hole and my brother installed the washer and nut and held the nut with needle nose pliers while I tightened the screw. Cinched the screw nice and tight until it was snug and some caulking was oozing out around the screw head.
The finished project sure gives you a better feeling that the rail will be strong and protect the hull from the occasional bump while docking and not end up separated from the hull.

Good Luck...Tad
 
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