Rub Rail Blues

C

C Sniper

New member
Well my '04 22 commuter has the rub rail rivots failing. Has anyone ever thought of/done a classic rope rub rail? Anyone who has done the rub rail care to chime in? I have read up the great threads showing others projects to re-attach the original.

All ideas/wisdom welcome. Thanks in advance!!!
 
I removed and reattached the original rubrail and am very happy with it. Probably about 2 days work. I used machine screws to reattach. There are pics and captions in my album.
 
Journey On's rub rails separated from the hull. I reattached them using 1/4" bolts and lock nuts where I could reach both sides and self tapping screws where I couldn't along with 4200. So far, so good.

I believe that the pop rivets went through the deck to hull joint and helped to secure that joint. Bob, would you chime in if I'm wrong? So anything you do had better have the same holding power as the rivets. I also believe Taco has the rails and inserts.

Also, I drilled several weep holes in the rub rails, so the water that gets in can get out. Don't forget that if you use stainless screws/bolts, that the rub rail is aluminum; prevent any metal to metal contact with a plastic washer. Heat the rub rail rubber insert (try saying that fast) and use a soft mallet to hammer it back in.

Boris
 
Anyone know the manufacturer and part number of the OEM rub rail and insert?

Mine doesn't leak, but is beat up on one side. Maybe I'll replace it. Looks like kind of a PITA job though.
 
As Boris noted the rub rail and insert is made by Taco.

The rub rail and rivets do not have any structural strength in holding the hull to deck joint. They just are cosmetic to cover the hull to deck joint.

The boat is left in the mold (at least used to be) and then the deck and cabin moldment lowered on top. The hull to deck joint is glassed together on the inside with strips of mat and fiberglass cloth tape. That is what holds the hull to deck joint togather.
 
As Bob says, the rubrail isn’t for protecting the boat in fact just the opposite. It needs to be thought of & protected when docking. In Hoonah Alaska, while at the fueling dock a boat going by to fast left a large wake, that bounced our boat against the dock, causing several rivets holding the rubrail to break. This was the start of our rubrail problems ending with a total redo.

Jay
 
Well, if you like the look, that's great. And if you only lightly touch the dock, that's even greater.

However, at various times I've slammed into docks when the winds up, when I've misjudged and for many other various reasons. I'll bet I've docked into a 1000 different slips/docks. And I consider myself an average boater, not great but average. So, I've learned to appreciate good rub rail, both the rubber insert and the aluminum strip. And this is over more than the C-Dory.

How would you fasten the rope to the side of the boat?

Boris
 
C Sniper":39a6dzub said:
anyone want to tell me why this is a bad idea??? I really like the look!

https://boatbuildproject.com/images/Rope-Rub-Rail.jpg
Click to expand...

For starters that rope is hemp or jute--which is short natural fibers, and does not wear well. Today, if you want to use a rope rub rail, then synthetics should be used.

As Boris says, this will not hold up to heavy abrasion. Hemp rope shrinks when wet. Prior to synthetics manilla rope made from the fibers of the abacá plant (grows in equatorial areas, such as Philippines.

To put a rope rub rail on a fiberglass boat there are two ways. One is to make a wooden inwale, which covers the hull to deck joint. That has to be fabricated, and then but to fit the contour of the hull. Then either rivet or bolted, with caulking to the boat. Then the rope is epoxied into the groove in the inwale.

The other is to get an extrusion which is similar to the extrusion by Toco used on the C Dory, but specifically for a certain sized rope. That has to be fixed to the C Dory as the factory extrusion is, and then the rope tapped into the extrusion. I would probably use some Boat Life, Life Calk in the extrusion to be sure it adheres and stays in place. It is best to have tension on the rope as it is set in place.

The extrusions for rope are made in both aluminum and rubber. In many ways the rubber is better, but probably more difficult to install in a C Dory.

When we built our 38 foot cruising sailboat, initially I wanted a heavy black rub rail, perhaps with rope insert. (The commercial look.). After some experimentation, we ended up putting a laminated teak rub rail in. Then a ss strip on top to take any heavy abrasion...(Teak was cheaper in the 1970's) I gave up on the rope, as being too subject to failures.
 
Ok, we are the experts on rub rail blues! We had our starboard rub rail virtually destroyed at St. Joseph, MI, and spent 10 days waiting for the rub rail and several thousand dollars on the repair in New Buffalo, MI. Every single one of the stupid rivets C-Dory used to install the rub rail had to drilled out. In the repair they were replaced by stainless screws and nuts. Greg Little of NMI was absolutely awesome in assisting in getting the parts to New Buffalo, and he deserves a big shout out generally for all he does for all of us.
 
Alright stainless bolts seem to be the preferred weapons for this mission. I am now looking for good trim option to hide hardware on the inside. I don't want to be looking at a line of fasteners running all around the inside. That will remind me forever of the rubrail failure project. If I can trim this out properly, I can remember the nautical decorative project me and my son did.

Soooo, how about we bring the natural fiber rope inside to hide/trim this project???

At first I thought wood for a fleeting moment... but strips of wood won't hold a level run with the compound curves.

Any other ideas for interior rub rail fastener trim???
 
Originally some were sealed on the inside by a caulking compound, and others by a dab of polyester resin, or perhaps some even with epoxy. The various places one has to access these inside nuts, makes one single long batten difficult.

I used 3 strand rope on one of my 22's which did not have hand rails on the inside. It worked well, using black 3 strand nylon 1/2" line.
 
anyone recall the length of bolts used? going to measure one rivot hole that is completely blown out but would like to get what you used if you've already done the deed.
 
We took off one rub rail insert today to take a look, because we had two rivets that had popped off inside near the bow, and the outside rail was sticking out about 1/4" sticking out at the bow. Interestingly, those look fine from the outside, but 4 other heads were off on the outside. We'll deal with those based on so many good posts here about how to do that.

What I really don't understand (and another reason for taking off the insert) is the amount of water that drips, drips, drips from in back of the aluminum rail. It drips slowly, but steadily at the lowest gravity point that we have it at a particular time. I don't understand whether that's condensation behind the rail, or whether it comes in behind the rail at the bow and accumulates, then drips. Any opinions? It's very annoying when you're trying to polish up your new 2u boat!!

Also, I'm not looking forward to putting that insert back in, that's a tight fit :) Still haven't figured out how to take off those end caps either, but it's only the first day, unless someone has some quick wise words :) (I think they just pop off, but I've had enough "testing" for the day :)
 
I was also wondering if anyone had put anything where the rail meets the boat to stop water from going behind the rail, like a wax or something. I don't really want to do a silicone or anything that would get grunged up over a short period of time. But if the water is just flowing from the bow behind the rail down to the lowest point, perhaps the answer is just sealing the bow end? I don't know :)
 
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