I swapped out all my fuel lines, vents and filler hose a couple of years ago on my 2004 Cruiser. I got thinking over the summer I should probably do the nearly 20-year-old fuel pickup lines too. Today I pulled the them out and am they are in great shape they are 20” from the strainer to the aluminum fitting in the top of the tank. Must be perfect length I have purposely ran both tanks bone dry in the past. These lines are made of TYGON F-4040-A and have a spring going down them and the ends are nicely crimped. The are not brittle at all. I didn’t realize Moller has replacements but did not see a 20” version? What length are you getting from Moller? Where are you getting them from? Little more to my story one side came out nicely the other side started to move when I had a wrench on the aluminum fitting so I put a pair of vice grips and was able to hold the threads in place and use the box wrench to remove the pickup. To keep that snug and tight I am thinking of a little marine tex around the threaded bung that goes into the tank. Thanks for this post very timely for me!! I must not be the only one thinking spring!!
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Rotted Fuel Pickup Tubes in 2007 C-Dory Cruiser
- Thread starter chipwagon
- Start date
ssilver":x234p2bl said:I swapped out all my fuel lines, vents and filler hose a couple of years ago on my 2004 Cruiser. I got thinking over the summer I should probably do the nearly 20-year-old fuel pickup lines too. Today I pulled the them out and am they are in great shape they are 20” from the strainer to the aluminum fitting in the top of the tank. Must be perfect length I have purposely ran both tanks bone dry in the past. These lines are made of TYGON F-4040-A and have a spring going down them and the ends are nicely crimped. The are not brittle at all. I didn’t realize Moller has replacements but did not see a 20” version? What length are you getting from Moller? Where are you getting them from? Little more to my story one side came out nicely the other side started to move when I had a wrench on the aluminum fitting so I put a pair of vice grips and was able to hold the threads in place and use the box wrench to remove the pickup. To keep that snug and tight I am thinking of a little marine tex around the threaded bung that goes into the tank. Thanks for this post very timely for me!! I must not be the only one thinking spring!!
I would use teflon tape for gasoline.
I would not recommend using teflon tape for fuel delivery line as small pieces could become free and clog small orifice in carb or EFI engine ( don't ask me how I'm sure of that). In this situation, the filter should take care of that but why take a chance. I prefer using the past type and had very good result with this. I replace all my fuel line and most fitting last year and use Permatex aviation form a gasket sealant #80019 and liked it very much, was easy to use and got 0 issue with it.
It looks like that aluminum bung piece was maybe melted into the tank or fused w/ heat? I do not think its threaded. I just went outside in garage and looked at it again and took some photos and put them side by side. They are both firmly in the tank. Its looks to me like it was a hexagon fitting shape that was melted into the top of the tank and now its slightly twisted w/ small gaps. You probably can’t see from the photo I have posted but you can see it more clearly when you zoom in.
Reviving this thread in case someone ran into the issue I did. I have a Cape Cruiser 23’ with aluminum tanks. After seeing/reading some of the horror stories I decided it was in my best interest to replace my pickups and sending units. I was able to remove the lag bolts holding the tanks to the cockpit floor. Then loosened all hose clamps to the tank, and that allowed me to pivot the tank towards the pilot house. Now with access to the pickup and sender I got to work. The pickup was actually in solid condition but I opted to replace anyway. As for the sender, 4 of the screws came out easy enough but the fifth got stripped. After trying all the screw extraction methods I knew I was about to give up and cut a notch with a hand powered hack saw to then remove hopefully with a flat head. But I read that a pair of nippers might work and to my surprise that was the ticket. I was able to lay them down parallel with the top of the tank, I had enough material on the top of the head to grab and rotate. So hopefully if someone comes across this thread in the future with a similar issue it can help. Now to tackle the port tank!
My angler is a 1990 and I had removed and cleaned the fuel tank about 15 years ago
Fast forward to this summer and it was time to clean the tanks once more
My solution this time is definitely not for most but for the way I am using the boat now this made sense for me.
I drained and removed both tank, Cleaned up the area and spray painted the area to make it look decent and bought two 6 US gallon and one 3 gallon (spare) Yamaha plastic portable tanks and hooked them up
Now at the end of the season I can use any remaining gas in the car or truck and start fresh next season
No long trips in my plans and I am close to gas supplies so like I said for me this will keep me away from permanent tank issues.
I am in the process of getting a new 90 HP installed and it will only see clean gas. I hope.
Ed
Fast forward to this summer and it was time to clean the tanks once more
My solution this time is definitely not for most but for the way I am using the boat now this made sense for me.
I drained and removed both tank, Cleaned up the area and spray painted the area to make it look decent and bought two 6 US gallon and one 3 gallon (spare) Yamaha plastic portable tanks and hooked them up
Now at the end of the season I can use any remaining gas in the car or truck and start fresh next season
No long trips in my plans and I am close to gas supplies so like I said for me this will keep me away from permanent tank issues.
I am in the process of getting a new 90 HP installed and it will only see clean gas. I hope.
Ed
Flashyfish
New member
I did the fuel pickup swap on my 2004 Angler.
Found spider cracks in the top of one tank and decided to purchase new 19 gallon models.
The original C Dory molded tanks were discontinued.
Used the flexible Moeller 635021-10 pickup. They also make a rigid pickup, which is the 033500-24.
Brand new A1-15 fuel lines and stainless steel shut off valves.
Leaving behind all the sad stories and issues with fuel for a while.
Found spider cracks in the top of one tank and decided to purchase new 19 gallon models.
The original C Dory molded tanks were discontinued.
Used the flexible Moeller 635021-10 pickup. They also make a rigid pickup, which is the 033500-24.
Brand new A1-15 fuel lines and stainless steel shut off valves.
Leaving behind all the sad stories and issues with fuel for a while.
I have made metal fuel pick up lines out of an automotive brake line. :smiled
A good automotive parts store will have a selection of steel brake lines. Just pick one long enough to suit your needs and cut it in half. Wallah! Now you have two pick up lines with a flared fitting on each end. :wink
Sometimes fuel starvation can be caused by the, "Anti-Syphon" fitting at the top of the tank. Be sure and check this. :smileo
A good automotive parts store will have a selection of steel brake lines. Just pick one long enough to suit your needs and cut it in half. Wallah! Now you have two pick up lines with a flared fitting on each end. :wink
Sometimes fuel starvation can be caused by the, "Anti-Syphon" fitting at the top of the tank. Be sure and check this. :smileo