Roof Rack on 25' - Bent Bolts

P

PW

New member
When it rained I noticed a small drip recently coming from one of the bolts that hold the roof rack on the Viking Lady. Decided to take the rack off and replace the caulking and had a devil of a time getting two of the 5 bolts off each side. Turns out one bolt was bent significantly and another one less so! I don't think they were near breaking but being bent as they were didn't look overly safe. I am surprised that we put that much weight on them when we go forward but apparently we have. The racks look perfect, the nuts welded in the tubes that hold the bolts look solid and structurally sound and there is no sign that the bolts moved in the roof holes. The bolts were very tight before I started to loosen them. Anyone else run this problem?
 
PW_

What bolt size and length were they? 1/4" x 20 tpi x 2-1/2" to 3" long?

I would think it would take a lot more than a person's weight going forward to bend them....

Maybe they were bent somehow when the boat was transported to the dealer or at the factory after assembly?

Were there TWO bent bolts on both sides?

Quote: "getting two of the 5 bolts off each side."

Maybe the rails were strapped to as tie-down points during transportation on a truck?

I can imagine how tight a trucker would cinch down a boat resting on a boat trailer sitting on his 18-wheeler truck bed!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Journey On's hand rails leaked right after we got it and I pulled the bolts to replace the caulking. If I remember correctly, and that's no guarantee, a couple of the bolts were slightly bent. Got new ones and installed them. No further problems.

Not a clue on how they were bent, but I didn't worry about it.

Boris
 
I had one of mine leak as well. The factory had used too long of a bolt and it would hit the inside of the radius on the rack. I shortened mine 1/4 inch and no problems. If the bolts were too long they might bend when they hit the radius.
 
Most of the hand rails need to be pulled and the hole epoxy lined if it is thru cored material, then rebedded with 5200. As I recollect on my 25 we had to replace at least one bolt when we did this.
 
Joe, the bolts are 5/16, stainless and the longest (which are the bent ones) are about 2 3/4" long. I checked to see if they were too long and they don't appear to be. The bent bolts were the ones in the center of the rail so they should not 'bottom out'. The bolts were bent on both sides, but the starboard side was much worse. I'll try to post a picture of one of the bolts with the least bend on my album as I don't seem to be able to post it here. Joe, I don't believe the Viking Lady has ever been put on a big trailer, she went straight into the Sound from the factory I believe. I think it would be worthwhile to check these bolts every 5 years or so, doubt they would give-way given there are 5 anchor points, but it could sure could be a cold dip at the wrong time![/img]
 
PW-

Thanks for the information!

Still baffles me a bit to think holding on the handrail could bend them!

Maybe we should arrange a scientific test at one of the get-togethers to see if we can bend them on one of the boats???

Anyone want top volunteer their boat for the test? :lol:

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Sea Wolf":1yvf46s8 said:
Still baffles me a bit to think holding on the handrail could bend them!
Click to expand...

I agree. The load is spread over the entire rail. They are exposed to obvious loads, but I can't see THAT bending them. :?

Guess I'll add this to "the list" and follow Dr. Bob's recommendation.
 
What would happen if the holes were drilled a bit off of the pattern, and the bolts forced through the roof into the rack? As I recall on the 19, the roof in places is very thick plywood and glass. Just wondering.

Robbi
 
another scenario might be that the fenders were tied to the rail while at a dock and the pressure from wind and weather or climbing on and off a lot would effectivly pull on the rail and possibly bend a bolt
 
I have seen both issues before with the bolts. My guess is the female threads may not be square to the bolt when completely tightened down. Could be due to the nut not being welded in straight or the interior surface of the cabintop is just not parallel to the bottom of the rail flange. I have never had a problem of leakage after resealing them. All of our boats are trucked two thirds of the way across the country and I have never seen the cabin rails used as tie downs. Once I had two stern cleats bent on a 22 when they were used as lifting points from the factory!

On one note I would be very careful when removing and installing rail bolts so as not to galled up the threads. Stainless on stainless is an easy potential mess and I use a small amount of anti seize on just the threads that engage. You can seize them up so tight all that can be done is to break off the bolt. More than once I have had to slowly work out a bolt with penatrating oil and run a tap throught the rail. If you have any doubts install a new bolt.

I hope this helps,

Randy
 
Bob makes a great point... and do not want others to miss it....
"Most of the hand rails need to be pulled and the hole epoxy lined if it is thru cored material, then rebedded with 5200. As I recollect on my 25 we had to replace at least one bolt when we did this.

A lot of us have seen a lot of cored thru holes just drilled and not epoxied. Just a slow growth type of problem that will not get better with age. Take a look.

Byrdman
 
So just to be 100% sure; by "epoxy lined" you mean:

Pull bolts/rail. Enlarge holes slightly. Fill w/ epoxy resin. Drill new holes THROUGH resin. Reset rail w/ 5200 or similiar.
 
Correct. There is the choice of under cutting, or just epoxy lining. If there is no question in hour mind that you can hit the center of the hole, and not expose the core, then the "painting of the hole with thickened epoxy is OK...but most of us are not quite that good, and prefer to undercut and fill for 1/8 to 1/4" with thickened epoxy. I have done the former on several occasions where the hole was large, and I knew exactly where the bolt went thru--and just enlarged the hole with a Dremel tool, small drum sander. Also done the thickened coating where there was a pre drilled hole, such as a hause pipe.
 
Back
Top