Roller trailer question for the brain trust.

N

NancyandBud

New member
We now own a roller trailer, something we have never had before.

I always assumed that the set up of the rollers on pivoting mounts would automatically center the boat on the trailer.

Perhaps they are not properly adjusted on our trailer as the boat wants to move to starboard by several inches.

We are leaving tomorrow for a few days on KY Lake and I have a brand new ratchet strap to hold it down.

What say you? Rollers improperly adjusted? Just the way they are? Something else?

All answers appreciated. :lol:

Correct answers? :love
 
Really loved my roller trailer for 10 years with the 22...

The trick in my opinion was the side guides which lined up the boat on the roller when retrieving.

Hope that helps...
 
sounds like maybe you need tie-down straps, one at the back corners and one on the front. First check that both sides of the rollers are adjusted the same.
 
I have a bunk trailer, so can't give you a definitive answer. But what I can say is that if I pull out of the water with the boat perfectly centered on the trailer, and then drive X number of miles, it will walk to one side at the stern. It will only go so far before one of the bunks stops it (due to hull shape), but I would still prefer it didn't. I could imagine rollers perhaps not doing any better because they will still be as "flat" as the hull shape (which I think is why it likes to walk. It seems like the orientation of the rollers is more to ease the boat on and off the trailer (fore-and-aft) not keep it centered (athwartships)?

I don't have the loading guides that many do (the ones that guide the boat up near the sheer stripe), although I now have some to install. But I wouldn't want those rubbing on the boat when trailering either (was thinking of them more for loading).

Given the number of possible solutions I've seen on the forum, I don't think mine is the only boat that likes to "walk" a bit on the trailer (and I do use a heavy strap). The solutions that looked the best to me involve some sort of a guide/stop that sits down on the trailer frame rail and thus contacts the boat low (for both effect and for not rubbing on the topsides). Something like this from the 22 Cruiser 3rd Byte. You can't completely tell in this photo but these are aft of the wheels on the frame rail. He mentioned he would adjust them after the boat was on the trailer (he had separate loading guides up higher on the topsides) and that they worked really well.

guide_block_3rd_Byte.jpg
 
I like Sunbeam's picture. That's what I need.

I put "bunk rollers" on my trailer when I went to Lake Ozette. I had read that the launch was very shallow and rollers might be the only way to launch and retrieve. It turns out that the ramp was very good and I didn't need rollers.

I left them on part of the summer. When I went on bad gravel roads on the outside of Vacouver Island, I noticed that the boat had shifted sideways. My guide bars were u-bolted on to the trailer and when the boat moved sideways, the guides simply twisted out of the way. They look like the same guides as shown attached just forward of Sunbeam's lateral stop. Fortunately, the EZ Loader trailer has rounded plastic fenders, which ended up being my lateral stops.

The problem with bunks, bunk rollers, and traditional rollers on a dory is that there is no "V" to sit down and center the boat. On gravel logging roads, it's common for the road to be accordion pleated and not canted towards the inside of a corner. When going around a corner or going down a steep grade, the trailer starts bouncing while it isn't level and maybe even tilted towards the outside of a sharp corner. There is nothing to keep the flat dory bottom centered on the flat bunks or a few rollers.

I put lateral straps on both sides of the boat from the center cleat to the trailer. Even still (after tightening them when I check axle temps), I can get a few inches of lateral travel. I also bolted my guides directly to the trailer. That didn't really help. I need some big herkin' stops like Sunbeam shows to take the load when the boat shifts, which it will do.

Mark
 
If you have boat movement after loading, I would take a look at the alignment of the rollers and how that relates to the hull shape. Is there any positioning of the rollers you could do to align some wheel with hull edges to grab and keep the boat from moving sideways. I was able to do that on one boat we had and it only took a little time with wrenches to make the change. Roller positioning often doesn't match the hull shape with any perfection but they all have a least some adjustments.

This is why I like bunks and guides. Less moving parts to get aligned.

Greg
 
Flattish bottom boats aft don't act well on trailers or going down steep waves.
There's a physics reason for this that just now alludes me. But, it doesn't take
too much brain power to understand why.

On the trailer scenario, to minimize the sideways walking, I've found placing
stern trailer straps in an "X" direction is much improved than using them in a
vertical direction. Placing straps further forward vertically or one over the gunnel
in the cockpit may look like it helps but doesn't actually help prevent aft sideways
movement of the boat. You want the "X" aft where most of the weight is. Two
purely horizontal aft straps would work best if it could be done reasonably.

Works for me.

Aye.
 
On my bunk trailer the fenders over the wheels act as side guides There is about an inch clearance. The inside of the fenders are padded to protect the hull.

The only issue is that sometimes when the boat is pulled out of the water on side may be sitting on top of the fender instead of inside it (usually if there is a crosswind or current). I have to watch the boat settle on the trailer as I pull it out.
 
Your best solution is to use ratchet straps from the trailer frame to the "tow eyes" on the transom. I also use a larger ratchet strap on the trailer. Lacking the straps to the tow eyes, the boats all tend to walk, some.

The side guide bunks which I have rarely contact the hull--their principle function is centering the boat on the trailer when retrieving.
 
Marco Flamingo said:
The problem with bunks, bunk rollers, and traditional rollers on a dory is that there is no "V" (bottom), to sit down and center the boat.
Click to expand...
Mark hit it on the head, the V would help keep it centered but the tie down process is also particular.


Foggy said:
On the trailer scenario, to minimize the sideways walking, I've found placing the stern trailer straps in an "X" direction is much improved (system rather than) than using them in a vertical direction. Placing straps further forward vertically or one over the gunnel in the cockpit may look like it helps but doesn't actually help prevent aft sideways movement of the boat. (It does help keep the boat on the trailer, should there be an unforeseen accident of some type.) You want the "X" aft where most of the weight is. Two purely horizontal aft straps would work best if it could be done reasonably.
Click to expand...

Most aft ties are done from the “U” loops on the transom straight down to the tie points on the trailer. On a bunk trailer, tightening them down snug does help to decrease the sideways shifting, (more so than a roller due to more bottom surface contact area), BUT and SO, not a bad idea to use those but to prevent the sideways shifting, the cross ties are a MUST.


Harvey
SleepyC:moon

0_CD_Cover_SlpyC_with_Classics_MBSP_2009_288.thumb.jpg
 
I can't speak for trailers with rollers as my trailer has 4 padded bunks that the boat rests on. I typically pull the boat out and if it has rested off center, I use a lever ( I use a wheelbarrow handle with a thick pad on one end.) to center the aft end between, but not touching, the side bunks. I don't have tow eyes on my transom, so I throw a strap over the gunnels and I'm off. I have never had the boat shift around. Can't explain it, maybe it's the 4 2X8 bunks. It just works for me. If I had your problem, and had tow loops, the cross tie-down idea sounds like a winner.
 
I just looked at the E-Z roller trailer under Journey On. There are no provisions for small adjustments. The only adjustment is several inches in the height of the rollers, allowing the correct initial height of the boat be set.

This is my second roller trailer. I wonder how people with 8 1/2 foot width retrieve those boats, because with rollers, you just crank it in. And you don't have to be too careful how the boat is pointed, because I've found the rollers straighten it out. That said, after I've loaded the darn thing, I've found that it'll shift against one or the other guide-ons during travel and ride there. Every time I tow it, I use a truckers strap across the back of the boat, across the cockpit. Yes, I almost lost a boat, the front tiedown broke but the 2 motorcycle straps held. Years ago, in Enesnada, Mexico and I still sweat when I think of it.

So, strap it down for safety, let it shift and enjoy the fact that it's a roller trailer.

Boris
 
Just to clarify, the "hold in placers" shown in my above post on the Cabernet colored boat aren't mine (wouldn't mind if they were, because they reportedly worked a treat). They were designed and fabricated by the owner of the 22 Cruiser 3rd Byte, and are pictured on his trailer. I had saved the photo because it seemed like a great design.
 
Boris said:
So, strap it down for safety, let it shift and enjoy the fact that it's a roller trailer.
Click to expand...

I would respectfully disagree with the "let it shift" part of that statement. from my experience, a load that shifts is not a controlled load and if that shift happens at an inopportune time it could result in "bad things" :cry :oops:

Much less likely to have a spilled load if it is constrained. YMMV :wink:

Yup, there are some advantages to a roller trailer, but I don't think they include getting away with an unsecured load.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

SSC_CPR_and_Patient_102.thumb.jpg
 
I have a tie down strap that goes from the bow eye vertically down to the trailer frame (in addition to the winch strap and the safety chain). This keeps the bow from bouncing up and down when towing.

One advantage of bunk trailers is that you can undo all the straps and still back the boat down the ramp without it sliding off the trailer. Makes launching easier.

I lost a RIB once because the winch strap broke. The boat blew over and the transom straps let me drag it bottom up down the road for a bit until I could stop.
 
I don't trailer my CD22 very far or very fast. I do trailer flat bottom jet boats all over, on and off road. I launch and recover where there are no ramps.

With that in mind, I can offer this insight:

1. Straps straps straps. Of you have tow eyes on your transom that's the best thing to use. Cleats aren't great for this and can break off when used for such applications, but may be all you have. If so, consider adding tow eyes. If you are having issues, strap your transom down with four straps, two attached to the same side as the tow eye, and two crossing in an X like Foggy said, from the tow eye on one side to the trailer on the other. Make the straps tight, and use straps that are made for boats, and large enough for the load.

2. Throw a strap over the gunnel, and under the trailer frame in addition to the straps on the transom.

3. You can do a lot by adding a strap from the bow eye to the trailer frame, straight down or even slightly aft of the bow eye. It may seem counter intuitive, but a more secure bow will make a difference at the stern.

4.
 
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