Restoring the gelcoat

A

Alyssa Jean

New member
Okay, I have done the hard part. Drove to Sacramento and back with the 16. After removing the state excise stickers and other registration numbers etc, I can see what color the red was. Now what is the best way to restore the colors? I have read about 3M Finesset II, but can't find any mention of it on the 3M site. Also good things are said about 3M Restorer and Wax. Barkeepers friend has been spoken well of. Is the best method good old elbow grease with any of these or should I use my neigbors electric car buffer? I have removed the teak rails and handles and need to strip some varnish off of them before sanding and refinishing.

How about the minor corrosion spots on the aluminum window frames?

Answers anyone??

Cute boat.
 
David;

My suggestion is to first use 1000 or 1500 grade automotive wet/dry "sand"paper. To a bucket of water, add a squirt of dish detergent and use this solution to keep the paper and boat wet while you are sanding off the oxidized gel-coat. You should also use a small, I prefer a 2"x2" rubber sanding block for small areas. Use plenty of water and be careful not to introduce any dirt or sand into your sanding process. Also pay watchful eye as to not sand through the gel-coat. Corner and edges are very susceptible. After you have achieved a uniform color then you can buff out with the 3M product or any other light compound. Then apply your wax. This is the process I use on the cars I paint and kayaks I build. My son has a red/gray Master-Craft that I have restored in this manner. Any local automotive store that carries automotive paint/body supplies should have all the materials you need. I also purchase my supplies from Ketone Automotive at: http://www.ketone.com/ It is not a difficult job and it is very rewarding to see a boat that looks like new.

Best regards,
 
Frequent Sea looks like new after compounding and buffing, then a wax. I would try the compounding before sanding. It is amazing how well the gel coat color comes back. The colors really need to be waxed at least every 6 months--better every 3 months.

If it is really bad, then the wet sanding will do wonders.
 
thataway":3jwgvn4i said:
The colors really need to be waxed at least every 6 months--better every 3 months.
Click to expand...

Can you suggest a safe way to wax the boat while it is in the water? I have a power buffer but don't think that dropping it in the water while running would be a good idea. :lol:

I suppose elbow grease is a viable alternative. :(

Warren
 
Do they make battery operated buffers yet -- they make everything else! Then I'd tie a light line to the handle tied to the boat (or you).
 
I have avoided electricuting myself for a number of years. I do tend to use battery operated tools near the water--but good battery operated tools are a relitatively new item. I used to use a "Craftsman 1 1/2 hp buffer--weight was about 50 lbs--huge thing--always kept the cord well above the water.

Waxing can be done by hand, if the compounding is done. Often you just need to wash, use a cleaner wax and then a good wax.
 
Speaking of waxing...after a good waxing and lets of elbow grease the reward can be tempered by the wax highlighting numerous rock dings.
Tried rubbing out but still there.

Question is what protection method is best to prevent dings, (have good wide tire flaps) and are dings just to be lived with?

Frank

2004 22 footer
 
I have a similar issue on the 22' I just bought re: oxidized chalky finish on the sides. Is running 1000 or 1500 grade paper (wet) on a 4" random orbital Makita sander acceptable to make the process easier / faster? The I assume the process after that would be identical of course with the buffing and waxing; but I was hoping to speed up the initial step. Thoughts? This Dory is not in the water so I don't have any concerns about the electric tools and dropping it in the drink. :-)
 
I've used 600 grit wet or dry on gel coat to clean off the oxide, and followed that with compound, on a cloth pad, same ROS. A 4-inch Makita will be pretty slow. You might want to check out one of the 5-inch ROS units. The Dewalts are not bad.

Don't punch holes in the sandpaper!
 
Here's a really naive question - When polishing with increasingly fine compounds, do you use a different pad for each compound? Do you clean a single pad as you move to the finer compounds? Obviously (?), just moving to a finer compound on the same pad with the coarser compound doesn't make sense . . (does it?).

iggy
 
iggy":2cxvo39z said:
Here's a really naive question - When polishing with increasingly fine compounds, do you use a different pad for each compound? Do you clean a single pad as you move to the finer compounds? Obviously (?), just moving to a finer compound on the same pad with the coarser compound doesn't make sense . . (does it?).

iggy
Click to expand...

No, you have to use a different buffing bonnet with each successive finer compound or the remaining abrasives from the former compound will be present and the "scratch size" (for lack of a better term) will remain the same.

I've machine washed bonnets between compounds and found that to be acceptable.

The best wet sanding I've ever done before compounding like this was with a National Detroit brand wet sander that was pneumatically driven, had a forward/backward stroke (rather than orbital), and had water jets on it's sides and was connected to a water hose. It was specifically designed to wet sand automotive finishes. I used it to wetsand hulls on small racing sailboats. Still have it!

600-jpg.jpg


Joe.
 
Agree with Joe, that best results are with wet sandpaper in the finer grits.
I also feel that air tools are in many ways superior to the electric tools. They are lighter and often easier to use. However, you have to have a pretty good size compressor for some of them. One has to be careful with scratching from sandpaper. Definately change bonets with grits.
 
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