Repower thoughts

danhebl

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C Dory Year
1994
C Dory Model
22 Angler
Hull Identification Number
dor226701394
Vessel Name
Victoria Raine
**note: if this has been rehashed recently please share thread.**

We have a 94 Angler 22. Currently has a 2014 90hp HO etec with a bad tilt/trim.

Etec has been problem free and very low maintenance. Fumes are problematic at times.

Because of fumes and cost to repair a discontinued motor we should Repower soon.

We have a low use Suzuki 9.9 kicker that is fine, kinda hate the vibration it makes though.

We are located in Knife River Marina, MN on Lake Superior.

Questions:

1. Size of Repower. I have seen every thing from single 50hp to twin 60hp. The 90HO seemed a little big except when fully loaded with 6 people and gear heading into Voyaguers National Park. Would a 70hp give better fuel usage?? Would love to hear why people chose what they did.

2. Brand that has worked well and why it was chosen.

Thanks!
 
I would suggest a DF 90 A Suzuki. It is the lightest of the major brands at 10 to 30 lbs ligher than the others. It is a good engine, and should do well for many years. The Suzuki will be lighter than your ETEC HO is (it is built on a heavier V4 block from the Standard ETEC, built on a smaller (by 0.4 liter) inline 3 cylinder block.

Only you can made the decision to spend a relatively small amount on a repair vs dropping somewhere near $10,000 on a new motor, rigging and installation. A tilt trim motor may run in the $120 to $150, salvaged complete unit in the $600 to $800, and complete unit around $2,000. ARCO (in Pensacola) makes a repair kit (as do others) and and an electrical TT motor new. There is the safety factor of the newer motor, but you already have a great kicker.

I would stick with the 90 hp, a 70 will not be much lighter, and it is nice to go in the highlands 20's or take a full load those times it might be advantageous. The twins make little economic sense since you have the kicker. Also the kicker is a great trolliing motor, and you cannot run those waters without trolling!

Enjoy your trips.
 
Last edited:
Awesome information!! Thanks!!
 
I repowered our C25 with a Suzuki 150 from the original Honda 130 .
Consider total cost as
Rigging , instalation of Suzuki gages package , new sea star hydraulic steering cylinder and upgrade to stainless prop, engine cover was $5000 more .
 
I owned an ETEC 90 on an 18' Olympic. I loved that motor with the exception that it was a 3 cylinder and wasn't smooth at trolling speeds. Not that it didn't run well it's just that 3 cyl engines aren't as smooth as 4 cylinders. The only other problem I had was that I didn't think it used enough oil. Well my bad, I took it in to a dealership and explained what I thought was a problem. It was adjusted and used more oil, I was happier the way it was at $50 a gal at that time. But overall that 90 would outperform anthing around it and was very fuel efficient. If I were in your situation I believe I would take it to a reliable repair shop and get it running properly and repair the trim/tilt. You'll have a great motor that will run reliably for years and be thousands of $$$ ahead.
 
Thanks for the reply! Finding people to work on ETECs has been challenging. Will have to take another look.

Also, did you have fume issues? We use amsoil marine HP now and used evinrude before. We do a lot of touring with visitors sitting out back and in the wrong wind it can be miserable.
 
Thanks for the reply! Finding people to work on ETECs has been challenging. Will have to take another look.

Also, did you have fume issues? We use amsoil marine HP now and used evinrude before. We do a lot of touring with visitors sitting out back and in the wrong wind it can be miserable.
I did not have fume issues. It sounds as thou it is running rich and I would guess that is an easy adjustment to do for a shop. It could be the fuel you're using also. I presently use non-ethanol fuel with a seafoam additive to keep it fresh.
 
I repowered my 2003 22 cruiser from an original 2003 Honda 90 (a carb model), with very high hours to a Honda 100 a few years ago. There was nothing wrong with the original motor, but I planned long trips and didn't trust this old pal any more. Its time had come. I had planned on a Honda 90, but the 100 was available and a 90 wasn't at that time. I might have gone with a Yamaha or Suzuki if it was available, but this was during covid and motors were hard to find. In theory, the Honda 100 can give the extra 10 hp with premium fuel. I find little to no difference with premium vs. regular, but basically, it comes on step quickly, and runs faster than I feel comfortable with either fuel. What a difference compared to the original 2003 Honda 90. I run quite loaded at times, and this motor comes to step quickly. In summary, I am very pleased with it. Mileage on step went from about 3.5 mpg to as high as 5 mpg lightly loaded at 20 mph. There has been a tendency for some to go to higher power (i.e. Yamaha 115; dual Yanmar 60's), but I can't imagine a scenario where one would need that extra power. I cruise with a moderate throttle, if only because the implications of hitting something at high speeds (lots of wood in the water in our waters), is significant. Most motors are similar, and you might consider primarily how easily you can get it serviced if you don't do that yourself.
 
Thanks! Appreciate the info!!
 
Tilt / Trim units are fairly easy to diagnose; Separate electrical, vs low fluid vs hydaulic component failure is easy. The motor is very easy to replace, or it may just be an elecrical issue, like a corroded wire/connection.

What happens when you press the switch on the motor ? Have you checked the voltage to the Tilt/Trim motor with a volt meter when the switch is pressed? Are there clicks, sound of motor running, but no movement?

Put "How to diagnose problems with Tilt and Trim on a 2014 ETEC HO outboard motor" into your search engine and I would enable AI. You will get a dialogue such as: To diagnose power tilt and trim problems on a 2014 Evinrude E-TEC HO motor, you must first isolate whether the failure is electrical (switches, relays, or the electric motor) or hydraulic (fluid levels, valves, or internal seals).

Then are listed simple proceedures step by step to make the diagnosis. Any decent mechanic, and many owners can follow the steps. ETEC parts are all available, and for many of the components for the ETEC Outboard are not unique to Evinrude.

I feel that all C Dory owners should understand basic 12 volt DC electrical circuits, have a volt meter and tools necessary for minor electrical and mechanical repairs on board. Lake Superior can be a very rough body of water at time, and a boat should be able to get to shelter in a expedient manor when necessary. Do you carry extra fuel filters? A squeeze bulb for priming? Spare battery or jump pack? For the kicker an extra gas can? There are good books on outboard repair specific to your motor.

Your season is relatively brief, and right now you are sitting out prime season--and it might go away by the time a new motor is located, shippe, and the new instruments, wiring etc are installed--Zip--you are in September.
 
We have been functional for a few years with this problem. The seals are bad so fluid doesn’t stay in. It whines but doesn’t move much. We have the boat in a marina and it will usually move a little so we can use it. When we rarely trailer it I can add fluid and it will last a few days.
 
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