Repairing small drill holes in hull

[breausaw]

G/flex Epoxies, has any used this stuff?
I have a couple of small holes drilled in the bottom of my transom, mistake holes :crook installing a transducer. Yea I know, measure twice drill once.
I used 5200 initially to seal the holes but think a more permanent fix is in order
One kit comes with syringes so you can inject and fill the entire whole, then I’d just tape it off tell cured.
Also, I need to move my GPS and VHF antennas outboard and was also considering using the G/flex for repairing those holes.

http://www.gougeonbrothers.com/G-flex/

 

[breausaw]

Ok, I know this topic has been hashed out before, but this G/flex is relatively new. I’ve read though most threads on hole repair and haven’t come across any information here on this new epoxy.

 

[matt_unique]

I have not used it personally so I would go with the tried and true stuff. I would use System III or West System epoxy (hardener and resin of course) and squirt it into the hole with a syringe until a little comes out, then quickly insert a small piece of a wood or plastic dowel sharpened to a point with a pencil sharpener. This will cap the hole keeping the epoxy inside and ensure there are no air voids. Make sure the very outside of the hole and the dowel is totally covered with epoxy and flush with the outside for future painting, etc.

 

[breausaw]

Since the holes I miss drilled are just below the transducer mount I was considering running a couple of stainless screws in the holes using 5200 or 4200, any problem with this? I’m not that concerned with esthetics here, you couldn’t even see the screws.
Just know I’m going to get bashed for suggesting this!

 

[ryder]

If it was me i would fill the holes with marine tex. great stuff.

regards

ryder

 

[matt_unique]

Since the holes I miss drilled are just below the transducer mount I was considering running a couple of stainless screws in the holes using 5200 or 4200, any problem with this? I’m not that concerned with esthetics here, you couldn’t even see the screws.
Just know I’m going to get bashed for suggesting this!

Ha ha, no bashing but it sounds like you already know the screws with 42/5200 is not as good a solution as using epoxy and capping. I would do everything possible to minimize the risk of water entry ruining your transom.

 

[thataway]

This is the reason I suggest that transducers be mounted on a piece of Starboard--not too late to do that. Just drill the holes out, fill with epoxy (MarineTex works fine) and then drill a new pilot hole and attatch the starboard (back cross hatched and undercut for adherance of 5200).

The screws just with 5200 are not a good idea. Fill the hole properly. Use toothpicks to work the MarineTex into the holes. Putting liquid epoxy in first is a good idea. You may already have a small area of wet core--and I would probably drill out the hole to good glass and wood core, before putting in the epoxy.

 

[Sea Wolf]

At first, the 5200 would seem to have the advantage of being "wetter" and probably a better seal if you've penetrated into the balsa or a plywood core, but may shrink a little upon curing and have to be filled in a second time for a flush surface. It's liquid nature makes it harder to work with as it wants to run out of the hole, and the set up time is much longer than an epoxy. However, .........

I like Marinetex epoxy for situations where I know I can get it worked into the wood core with a tool and then fully fill the hole. The epoxy with a fiberglass filler is much stronger than a bedding compound like 5200. It sets up faster, too! You can tint the appliance white color down to your hull to match.

Use a bonding filler (Marinetex) to solidly fill a hole or space.
Use a bedding compound (5200) to seal a crevice or make a gasket under a hardware piece.

I have no experience with G/Flex.

Joe. :teeth :thup

 

[tsturm]

I drill out the hole slightly larger. Mix up my epoxy, load it into a syringe(sp?) W/O needle and inject the epoxy into the clean hole then Quickly cover with tape until it cures. sand flush & paint :wink:

 

[breausaw]

I drill out the hole slightly larger. Mix up my epoxy, load it into a syringe(sp?) W/O needle and inject the epoxy into the clean hole then Quickly cover with tape until it cures. sand flush & paint :wink:

This is exactly how I intended to fill the hole, but I’d attach 14g needle to back-fill the hole pulling the needle out as if fills before taping it off.
Ok, the screw idea using 5200 is the lazy man’s cure.
So now I’m concerned with attaching the transducer with 5200 on the screws, is there a better alternative? My dealer said they use 5200 exclusively and recommended it for this particular application.

Bob’s idea using Starboard deserves consideration but unless this board comes in Blue the color contrast would be undesirable.

 

[tsturm]

I drill out the hole slightly larger. Mix up my epoxy, load it into a syringe(sp?) W/O needle and inject the epoxy into the clean hole then Quickly cover with tape until it cures. sand flush & paint :wink:

This is exactly how I intended to fill the hole, but I’d attach 14g needle to back-fill the hole pulling the needle out as if fills before taping it off.
Ok, the screw idea using 5200 is the lazy man’s cure.
So now I’m concerned with attaching the transducer with 5200 on the screws, is there a better alternative? My dealer said they use 5200 exclusively and recommended it for this particular application.

Bob’s idea using Starboard deserves consideration but unless this board comes in Blue the color contrast would be undesirable.

Mine are put on with 5200. I do like the screw & glue a piece of 3/4" HDPE to the transom & mounting items to it. Maybe next year. I have been doing good on the kings @ Homer the last 2 weeks :wink:

 

[thataway]

Interesting that the color of Starboard white would be objectionable. How about the transducer itself? Maybe I look at more the function of a boat than the asthetics of a blue gelcoat below the waterline. You found out the reason for the Starboard--that is that often DS transducers have to be repositioned, and you don't want to make swiss cheese out of the transom--with some risk of water intrusion into the transom core. I was recently on a friends "new" mainship 34--6 different depth sounder transducers in the hull!--Only one of them worked and matched the current sounder--and it is old, so that another one will be added--or better yet, one of the ones there removed and replaced....

But the starboard can be redrilled a number of times with no risk to the transom. When you put screws into the transom, you should not just screw in--you should over drill the hole, probably best to slightly undercut, fill with epoxy--and then pilot hole for the transducer screw, and bed in 5200. 5200 is not a cure all and does not always make a water tite seal.

 

[tsturm]

Bob’s idea using Starboard deserves consideration but unless this board comes in Blue the color contrast would be undesirable.

That is what the Black bottom paint is for :beer

 

[breausaw]

Interesting that the color of Starboard white would be objectionable. How about the transducer itself? Maybe I look at more the function of a boat than the asthetics of a blue gelcoat below the waterline. You found out the reason for the Starboard--that is that often DS transducers have to be repositioned, and you don't want to make swiss cheese out of the transom--with some risk of water intrusion into the transom core.

Touché Bob, you’ve convince me. I have at least 3 weeks before Triple J hits the water and with my luck the dang transducer will have to be repositioned.
Now I have to find a source for ¾ inch High Density Polyethylene Marine Board here in Anchorage, maybe J.M.R. II can tell my where he got his.

 

[tsturm]

Interesting that the color of Starboard white would be objectionable. How about the transducer itself? Maybe I look at more the function of a boat than the asthetics of a blue gelcoat below the waterline. You found out the reason for the Starboard--that is that often DS transducers have to be repositioned, and you don't want to make swiss cheese out of the transom--with some risk of water intrusion into the transom core.

Touché Bob, you’ve convince me. I have at least 3 weeks before Triple J hits the water and with my luck the dang transducer will have to be repositioned.
Now I have to find a source for ¾ inch High Density Polyethylene Marine Board here in Anchorage, maybe J.M.R. II can tell my where he got his.

First try would be B&J commercial :wink:
I have seen HDPE in black also

 

[marvin4239]

G/flex Epoxies, has any used this stuff?
http://www.gougeonbrothers.com/G-flex/

To answer your original question I've used the G/Flex 5 minute epoxie on a lot of different things mostly thickend to glue things up in the boat (overhead fan, magazine rack etc). I don't think it's nearly as strong as West but it's pretty handy for non critical things I wouldn't trust it to fill holes that are subjected to water.

 

[thataway]

I have also seen the black Starboard or HDPE. Be sure and cross hatch the back (toward the transom)--I use a cutter on a Dremel tool, and give a bit of a dove tail profile to the Starboard. Drill the holes in the Starboard first, then mark where they are going into the hull. Drill out and fill with epoxy this area--maybe you can use at least two of the screw holes from the first transducer location--but I try and keep the screws for the starboard high on the block to avoid interfering with any attempts of mounting the transducer. If you cannot find Starboard--then two 3/8" cutting HDPE boards can be used: The second one covering the first, and its screw holes--Don't go all of the way thru the first layer. I buy the large $5 boards at WalMart--cheaper than Starboard--But it is better if you can find some blocks of the 3/4" stock. I have also seen it used as skids for both hull bottoms, on decks where either traps or skiffs (pull boats) are skidded aboard--so you might find some in the commercial yard. I have also found some on the beach--it is light enough that it seems to wash to shore.

 

[Stephen Williams]

Now I feel a little stupid!! I've just had a transom transducer installed on my new 16 Cruiser. Professionally done, but he drilled directly into the transom. When I was at the Seattle Boat Show in January, and while on part of the Factory Tour, I remember them saying that the 16' transoms are now completely made from ( I think some composite material) Will that help this situation in any way, and what should I do now?? Boat has not yet been in the water since the install. Thanks.

 

[breausaw]

Did some calling around and found a plastic supply here that actually has Blue Starboard but only in 1 inch thick, would guess that would work fine.
I understand the reasoning of overdrilling the hole and filling with epoxy, that makes sense.
Also, from talking with a number of plastic ships and boat builders I’m told nothing will bond starboard to anything; using something like 5200 will only serve as a gasket of sorts.
One boat builder I talked to suggest using UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic in place of HDPE (starboard), but said starboard would work fine also.
WOW, this boat stuff is mind-boggling at times.

 

[Sea Wolf]

<Some discussion clipped.>

Also, from talking with a number of plastic ships and boat builders I’m told nothing will bond starboard to anything;

True until recently!

Here's a new product from the makers of Loctite thread lockers and adhesives:

Loctite 3030 Speedbonder Adhesive




Just thought I'd correct the common understanding that is now outdated.

Joe. :teeth :thup