re-installing into solid glass

Grazer

New member
I just pulled my rod holders off the forward face of the splashwell to clean and check for damaged core. I was pleasantly surprised to see that the holes are drilled through solid glass. Is there any technique to putting things back? Should you epoxy seal the edge of the holes before re-installing the hardware? Or would it be better to in-large the hole slightly, clean with acetone, fill the void with thickened epoxy (cabosil and chop strand), then redrill hole through annulus of epoxy and fasten with through bolt. Any suggestions are always appreciated.

Thanks,
Grazer
 
If that part of the splashwell is solid glass there is no need to over drill, fill with epoxy and then re-drill the holes in my opinion. The over drill and fill with epoxy method is useful to provide a barrier to keep water from getting into the coring material and causing rot or delamination. If there is no coring there is no need to protect the core.

You do want to keep water out of the hole as even solid glass can delaminate over time with water intrusion, especially if it goes through many freeze/thaw cycles while wet so use a sealant when reattaching the hardware. My preferred sealer in that situation would be butyl rubber but many people seem to prefer 3M 4200 or 5200.

If you have epoxy and mixing up a small batch isn't a problem sealing the edges of the holes with epoxy is one more step in keeping water from getting into the layers of glass. Personally though I wouldn't bother if the surface and hardware were such that an excellent seal could be obtained with butyl or one of the 3M goops.
 
If you think you will want to remove them in the future for any reason, DON'T USE 5200. If you think you only "might", use 4200. I'd use the butyl rubber myself! :wink:

Charlie
 
I agree with what's been said above. One thing to consider (which may be a non-issue but I can't see the installation) is that although non-cored fiberglass is handy in that you don't have to worry about sealing the core, it is also not as strong. So depending on how much and which direction you may be putting stress on the hardware you are installing, you may want to install a backing block to spread the load. I generally use pre-made FRP (fiberglass) board from McMaster-Carr for backing blocks - the basic medium-to-dark green stuff - and fasten it with thickened epoxy (to the underside. Again, this may not be an issue depending on the exact installation and use, but just something to consider. Sometimes large fender washers will work, but other times you either want a bigger/different backing plate or can't fit fender washers.

Sunbeam
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I agree that the backing likely needs to be stiffened as I noticed some of the bolts were loose. The treads are working there way into the glass, likely due to vibration. I'll put the butyl tape on the back side of the hardware after I reseal the holes.
 
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