Raising Wallas stove.

[mgarr682]

How about I play Devil's Advocate? :twisted:

Excellent, that's why I posted here, to get other ideas or to get a feel for the practicality of what I'm wanting to do.

How much volume of storage space are you really going to gain, and at what cost and effort?

The space gained won't be all that great. Actual storage area will be (going from memory here, my notebook with those measurements is in the boat right now) about ten inches high, ten inches side to side (bow to stern, actually) and eighteen inches deep. The cabinet would be taller over all but the top several inches would contain the stove and not be useable for storage. I've already decided that drawers would waste a lot of the space and plan to build it with a hinged door that pivots down allowing a tackle tray or two to be slid out onto the door, needed items grabbed, tray slid back in and door closed.

Cost won't be much. A bit of 1/2 inch plywood for the top, 1/4 inch plywood for one side and the door, a bit of plank lumber cut to size for attachment points and to stiffen the door, a hinge or two, and a quart of white latex enamel paint would be the only things I'd have to buy. Epoxy glue and a variety of stainless screws, bolts, and silicon bronze ring nails are waiting in the basement. I debated using Starboard but after finding out how expensive and heavy it is I'll stick with plywood.

Effort won't be a lot either. I'll attach the counter top at the rear to the forward face of the aft bulkhead and along the side of the cabin in the same manner. I'll only have to cover the side behind the pilot seat and the door by using the side wall of the cabin and the rear bulkhead as walls of the cabinet.

Is there another space on board you could build an equivalent or larger tackle box and not have to move the stove in the process?

There are several places on board where a tackle box could be stored, three large compartments under the berth, two large compartments under the dinette seats and the area under where the stove is located now. All of those compartments are large enough for a good sized tackle box but none would be as convenient as reaching through the door, lowering the cabinet door, sliding out the tackle tray, grabbing whatever leaders, hooks, weights, lures, etc., are needed, sliding the tray back in and closing the door.

For example, over to the starboard side of the foot well and below the motor controls is an relatively large empty space that could serve to house a storage box or cabinet.

On my boat that area is closed off by a fiberglass wall. The starboard side storage cabinet and foot rest area are an insert with a vertical wall going all the way up to the cabin side. This photo shows the starboard side insert I'm talking about:



The area behind that wall is no more than six to eight inches deep. If I were to put a hatch there and the tackle box would fit it still wouldn't be nearly as convenient as what I have in mind.

I routinely keep such storage boxes in the sink, on the covered 3-burner stove, or on the dinette table when fishing in my CD-22.

Yes, the benefits of that giant counter in the cruiser! The small cabin is the one downside to the Angler model. But, there is no way to get that big cockpit without making the cabin smaller. I could just use a tackle box but they always seem to be in the way or buried in a compartment somewhere. If they are on deck they are getting kicked over. I just want convenient, quick access to my tackle when I need it but out of the way at any other time.

Such a box could be purchased in an already made configuration, eliminating the wood shop project, too, for better or for worse(!).

I've looked and have yet to find anything that will fit that narrow, tall, and deep space unless I get one custom made which is stupidly expensive.

Another consideration: What dangers are there to having a hot coffee pot behind your head, or will it be there under way? I know you plan to contain it somehow, but …………………?

No coffee making or cooking when underway. The heater, now that is a different animal. That will get used a lot during the colder months whether at anchor or underway. I've used it several times while working on the boat in the last few weeks on cold days. I'm impressed.

Also, have you considered where the hot air will be directed when using the stove as a heater?

It will already be that much higher when exiting the Wallas.

As it is installed now the stove/heater is much lower in the Angler than in the cruiser. According to the measurements Sunbeam gave me what I have in mind will raise it to about the same height as the counter top in the Cruiser model or maybe an inch or so higher. I'm thinking it should heat the cabin just as well from that height. The small cabin helps. I've run it on days when the temps were in the low 30's and it gets quite cozy. I've installed two fans under the shelf below the roof to direct warm air on the windshields for defogging and I suspect they will do fine just circulating the warmed air in the cabin. I have considered a third Caframo fan to direct the war air into the berth when overnighting.

Sorry, just a few second-guess thoughts for free! :lol:

Joe. :teeth :thup

Your thoughts are appreciated! I've gotten several good tips and ideas from the discussions here at C-Brats!

Thanks!

 

[macmac]

We can't see any way for air to get under the stove from these pictures. We will assume it is pulled from inside the hull liner below or alongside the hull. If you don't move the stove, please verify there is at least 16 square inches of air flow into the area below the stove. That thing needs to breathe!

Thanks!

Doug at Scan

 

[mgarr682]

We can't see any way for air to get under the stove from these pictures. We will assume it is pulled from inside the hull liner below or alongside the hull. If you don't move the stove, please verify there is at least 16 square inches of air flow into the area below the stove. That thing needs to breathe!

Thanks!

Doug at Scan

Thanks for bringing that up, Doug. I did some measuring today to see what I have with the current installation. There are two openings in that compartment, one inside the cabin at the front and a larger one at the rear that opens to the area outside the cabin under the gunwhale. The two openings (2" & 3" diameter holes) minus the wire bundles that pass through them (I measured each of those too and subtracted the surface area of each) leave me a net opening of 9.23 square inches.

While that is less than 16 square inches I believe the 16 square inches you mention is what is required for the larger, higher BTU stove like the Nordic. The documentation for the Nordic stove says it needs 100 to 150 square centimeters, or, 16 to 24 square inches.

The documentation for the 800 isn't clear as the translation to english isn't the best but from my reading I believe it says that the 800 needs 30 to 40 square centimeters which works out to 4.7 to 6.2 square inches. Am I reading the installation documents for the 800 wrong?

The document I'm referring to is here:

http://www.wallas.fi/contentlibrary/PDF/490080A.pdf

If I've misunderstood please let me know as I can easily allow for more air flow when I raise it.

Thanks for your help!

 

[mgarr682]

Well, I've finally gotten around to raising the stove. Having a bit of 1/2" plywood and some 1" aluminum angle in the garage I pieced together the uprights and top to see how it would fit in the boat. I plan to leave a 1 1/2" gap at the back of the cabinet to allow for air intake needed for combustion and as a vent for any heat build up within the cabinet but I can't decide whether to butt the top up against the rear cabin bulkhead or leave a small gap. I'm not sure how much flexing there might be in the hull/cabin in a seaway. Any thoughts?

 

[rogerbum]

Butt it up against the bulk head and seal it with a good caulk. Do the same for the rear of the cabinet and vent it through the side or front with a vertical hole/vent cover. Eventually you or someone will spill something (or some things) and you'll be glad it's contained on the top surface where it can be cleaned. With a small gap to an area that's hard to clean, you'll be unhappy someday.

 

[Sunbeam]

... I can't decide whether to butt the top up against the rear cabin bulkhead or leave a small gap. I'm not sure how much flexing there might be in the hull/cabin in a seaway. Any thoughts?

If it helps you to decide: The way the galley countertop is set up in the 22 Cruiser with the Decraguard (plywood) interior, the plywood countertop is butted up to the bulkhead, secured underneath with a couple of mild steel angle brackets screwed into said bulkhead, and then a caulk seam is made on top of the counter at the joint. In other words, it's neither a really stout, nor a really flexible connection. Maybe a boat with more hours on it than mine would show some signs of flexion at the gap, but mine hasn't, and I haven't noticed it specifically mentioned.

Sunbeam

 

[mgarr682]

Butt it up against the bulk head and seal it with a good caulk. Do the same for the rear of the cabinet and vent it through the side or front with a vertical hole/vent cover. Eventually you or someone will spill something (or some things) and you'll be glad it's contained on the top surface where it can be cleaned. With a small gap to an area that's hard to clean, you'll be unhappy someday.

I'm putting a half inch lip on the rear edge of the cabinet to keep most spills from dripping down the back side, but if that doesn't work the drawer will come right out allowing easy access for clean up. Mainly I just want to vent any heat buildup since I'll be using the drawer right under the stove for storage.

 

[mgarr682]

If it helps you to decide: The way the galley countertop is set up in the 22 Cruiser with the Decraguard (plywood) interior, the plywood countertop is butted up to the bulkhead, secured underneath with a couple of mild steel angle brackets screwed into said bulkhead, and then a caulk seam is made on top of the counter at the joint. In other words, it's neither a really stout, nor a really flexible connection. Maybe a boat with more hours on it than mine would show some signs of flexion at the gap, but mine hasn't, and I haven't noticed it specifically mentioned.

Sunbeam

Thanks, that is helpful to know. I'm going to butt it up to the rear bulkhead then with some of that 3M goop.

Two coats of paint. Tomorrow a light sanding, a third coat of paint and then to the boat.

 

[mgarr682]

The cabinet is finished. Now all I have to do is drop in the stove, put it in the boat and hook up the electrical, fuel, and exhaust.

Open:



And closed.



I know, the brass latch and aluminum handle clash. My wife will be sure to inform me of that as soon as she gets back from visiting my son in Hawaii and sees it. But I'll tell her what I usually do, I'm cheap and they were cheap too. All together I spent about $75 on plywood (I had some, only bought a couple of 2'x2' pieces), screws, aluminum angle, drawer slides, and paint.

 

[mgarr682]

Finally got a chance to start installing the new cabinet in the boat today. First I cut a hole in the side wall to allow access to the exhaust outlet.



With the cabinet in place all I have to do now is trim the exhaust pipe, connect it and two electrical connections then route my fuel lines to be back in business.

 

[mgarr682]

I finally got around to finishing the stove installation today. Hooking up the exhaust, fuel lines, and electrical components was a pain in neck as the area was a bit tight to work in. I think I donated about a half pint of blood from the various scratches and scrapes to my forearms and hands, particularly from the stainless exhaust hose (those edges are sharp!) but I survived.



After getting everything connected and checked over a few times I fired it up and let it run in heater mode for an hour. I left the door open and all the windows since the outside temp was in the low 70's and set the thermostat at 85 so it would run full tilt the whole time. No fuel leaks and nothing seemed to get too hot but the heater lid was blowing out quite warm air. I was quite surprised to find that I could grab the exhaust hose with that thick sleeve on it and hold it for several seconds before it got too hot to hold on to. Just putting my hand a half inch from the exhaust showed that I could keep my hand there as long as I wanted without it getting uncomfortable.



Even after running nearly full tilt for an hour the drawer under the stove was just warm to the touch, not "hot" at all. I think I'm going to be pleased with the additional storage.

Thanks to the folks here who had input and suggestions and thanks to the folks at ScanMarine for taking the time to answer my questions!

I think I'll find out if this boat floats next week. Finally!

 

[Sunbeam]

That looks great and like a really useful mod. Thanks for posting about it.

Here's to a fantastic first voyage!

Sunbeam

 

[Slow bug]

Bloody good job mate!