Raising trailer tongue higher than standard jack

D

Doryman

New member
I park my 22 on a slight downward slope. The standard tongue jack does not crank up far enough to tilt the boat back to drain the cockpit. I would appreciate any suggestions for tools or methods to get the tongue higher, for storage. I have done it by jacking it up, sticking a board vertically under the tongue, retracting the jack, putting a block under the jack, jacking further, etc., but it is a pain.

Thanks,
Warren
 
B~C":35s7en7b said:
I use the same method but use a jack stand, they're handy to have around if you're working on brakes. Here is a quality chinese built set-

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Torin-Jacks-3 ... r/14560047
Click to expand...

I looked into jack stands at the NAPA store here but I saw two problems with them: (1) as you said, you still have to go through the multi-step process of using the tongue jack as an intermediate -- basically this works the same as my board approach; and (2) the ones I saw at NAPA (and I think also these WalMart ones) do not extend up enough.

What I want is some kind of a lifting jack that will get the tongue up to its final height in one fell swoop. Maybe such a beast does not exist and I will have to continue with the multi-step process, perhaps improved with jack stands on boards or blocks.

Thanks,
Warren
 
How about using two tongue jacks--one for the first lift--and then the second one with a block under it? I have used the jack stand when necessary, but two tongue jacks work faster and easier. I like the heavy duty jack stands without a wheel--just a metal foot. These can be adjusted for height--and may not even need a block. One jack stand on each side of the tongue.
 
Hi Warren, Fulton makes a drop stand without the wheel. that may be good. It is Fulton # 1412000173 or West Marine sku 7869910. it will do a 2500 lb tongue weight. It has no wheel just a plate. I doubt this will be an issue as tandem trailers can't be muscled about anyway with a wheel. This Fulton has a 28" travel with a pin at the bottom end to help lift. I bet this guy will get you going. Cheers George
 
Careful how high you jack the tongue end up, without checking that the other end has the OB's up for clearance. I have used about a 6" wooden block with a single jack stand, but you might have more slope than I did. If you are getting it up that high, might want to use a couple of jack stands to set the trailer frame down onto, back on the frame towards the trailer axels, just incase.......

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

SSC_CPR_and_Patient_225.thumb.jpg
 
thataway":3iocm5qu said:
How about using two tongue jacks--one for the first lift--and then the second one with a block under it? I have used the jack stand when necessary, but two tongue jacks work faster and easier. I like the heavy duty jack stands without a wheel--just a metal foot. These can be adjusted for height--and may not even need a block. One jack stand on each side of the tongue.
Click to expand...

Bob, good idea but I think I would get some strange looks at the ramp. Might be worth it, though. Thanks!

ghone":3iocm5qu said:
Hi Warren, Fulton makes a drop stand without the wheel. that may be good. It is Fulton # 1412000173 or West Marine sku 7869910. it will do a 2500 lb tongue weight. It has no wheel just a plate. I doubt this will be an issue as tandem trailers can't be muscled about anyway with a wheel. This Fulton has a 28" travel with a pin at the bottom end to help lift. I bet this guy will get you going. Cheers George
Click to expand...

Hi, George -- that looks like the jack on my Tom Cat! I will have to see if the 15" of travel as shown on the WM catalog page compares to the current jack. I should think it would be. Thanks!

Warren
 
Warren
I too have to park my boat on a down hill slope. What I do is use a 3 ton floor jack to raise the tongue high enough to slip a box of criss cross 4x4s that I made under the tongue jack. Works fine for me. And with the tongue weight it would take 4 men and a boy to lift it off to try and steal it.
 
Warren,

I carry a shop type jack for possible tire changes on the truck or trailer.
41JOSVNIBqL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
It works well for raising the trailer tongue to insure drainage from the bilges. I have an aluminum one that I found at Costco.
 
SENSEI":1ndp915j said:
Hey Warren
here is a company that make a hi lift jack

http://www.hi-lift.com/hi-lift-jacks/index.html

they work well but need to block the wheels well so that the trailer wont go side ways. lift with this jack and then put block under the trailer jack and let down on it.
Click to expand...

Hey, I had one of those on my Jeep! Works well as a come-a-long, too! Great suggestion. I like Spike and the other Roger's floor jack suggestion, too.

Warren
 
I admit it, I like to work with steel and to weld. I had the same problem and I simply made an bracket that lowers the placement of the jack on the trailer - thus giving more usable lift. It was very simple to do. BTW, if I could figure out how to post a picture, I would show you my really cool cooler mount I made last weekend.....
 
Same problem here Warren. I store the boat on a big piece of laminated beam; it's MUCH stonger than the jack. But I have to do the multi-step method in order to get it high enough.
 
While the trailer is still on the truck retract the jack all the way to it's lowest point, place some wood underneath, then crank it up. Does this not provide sufficient lift height?

This is what I do with Napoleon.

You could also do this process above after backing the truck onto some wood with the trailer still connected (thus elevating the whole thing) before you start cranking. You'll need to repeat this in order to set the trailer back down on your hitch but it's not too difficult.

Perhaps I'm missing something....
 
Warren,

I'm sure that Tom could find you a house with a level driveway :lol:

I have a similar problem in some situations as I use a weight distribution hitch which can be very difficult to disconnect if the truck and trailer are not at the same angle.

You might also consider that by tilting the boat you are loading the rear axle and tires which may not be a good thing for long term parking.

Merv
 
I guess I need to add a caveat; I used to have to raise the bow of the boat on the tailer so the cockpit would/could drain. My parking pad is level but even at full extension, the boat canted forward. The issue then became water pooling at the front of the cockpit and cit ould eventually leak into the cabin through the bottom of the door. In order to rectify this:
-I could raise the bow/trailer tongue :thup
-I could move to someplace drier :thdown unrealistic
-I could park the boat under a roof. :thdown nope
-I could use the boat more :roll: I iwish
-I could buy a cover :thup bingo

:lol:
 
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