Radar wiring

J

jmcneill

New member
Ok I love this site and all the info I can get and use for my new boat. I have a few questions. I want to take off my radar arch so I can weld a rocket launcher rod holder to it.

1. I would like to take the Radome off and pull the wire to it out of the tube, so I will not melt the wire to my radar. Can I unhook the wire that goes into the Radome? I would rather try to unhook it from the radome side instead of trying to find the end of that cable that goes a couple miles inside of my boat.

2. I have the same problem with my raymarine gps antenna. Does it unhook at the end of the antenna, that is hooked to my radar arch?

3. I also need to replace my vhf radio antenna, ( tip broken off about 6 inchs) I unhooked the connection where the antenna wire goes into the radio. Seemed pretty basic except for the end connection. Does a new antenna come with a new connection? Do you just cut off the excess amount of cable? Does it require a special tool to crimp the new connection on? VHF antenna wire needs to come out so I do not burn it also.

I am trying to make this project as clean as possible. I would like to pull the wires out of the radar arch, then do my welding then reroute all the wires back to the orginal position. Could I possiblly split the wires with a stainless steel connection?
 
Removing the Radome end is usually best but it is not for the faint of heart. In the case of a Raymarine like yours, you face damaging a small, easily damaged spendy little connector inside the Radome. A Furuno radar is slightly easier but still can cause grey hairs if you're doing it the first time and without help and is not recommended as a "first time" electronics project which, from the sound of your message, is what you're proposing.

The Raymarine antenna "head" has a small screw in connector on the bottom and the wire is easily removed.

The typical VHF antenna does not come with an attached connector or, if it does, it's definitely got a lot of extra wire and the connector will still require removal to get the coax through your arch.

Bottom line? Bite the bullet and either go to an installer or to a West Marine that offers electronic installation and buy the necessary tech hours to remove then reinstall anything that runs through your radar arch. Total shouldn't be more than 3 hours tech time but it's less than the cost of a tech if you screw it up and have to call them in later....

Don
 
As far as the radome goes, I had to remove my Raymarine recently and found it to be pretty easy. Certainly not beyond the capabilities of most people.

Steps:
1- remove the main radar connector from the back GPS unit to insure no voltage is present on the wires (unless your sure the 12V goes through the aux switch and is turned off)
2- loosen the screws and remove the top lid (don't overtighten these screws on reinstallation)
3- inside the radome remove around 6 small screws holding the metal plate covering the wires and the screw holding the cable strain relief
4- cut the single tie wrap
5- record the location of each colored wire before removing, loosen the screw terminal connectors and remove the wires, noting how tight the screws are held for reinstallation purposes
6- loosen both sides of the gland holding the cable to the case
7- wrap some electrical tape around the wires to protect them
8- pull the cable out of the radome
9- remove the four screws securing the radome to the arch; take the radome off
10- do steps in reverse to reinstall

I have no experience with removing the GPS head or the VHF antenna.
 
Chris: Are there any components, especially the gland, that would need to be replaced when re-attaching the radome? Reason I ask is that I'm interested in a radome installation that I can remove yearly, so my boat will continue to fit under my covered deck for winter storage? I want to make sure I don't compromise the seal and/or electronic connections in removing the radome. Thanks, Mike.
 
seahooked":3m3u931m said:
As far as the radome goes, I had to remove my Raymarine recently and found it to be pretty easy. Certainly not beyond the capabilities of most people.

Steps:
<snip>
3- inside the radome remove around 6 small screws holding the metal plate covering the wires and the screw holding the cable strain relief
4- cut the single tie wrap
5- record the location of each colored wire before removing, loosen the screw terminal connectors and remove the wires, noting how tight the screws are held for reinstallation purposes
6
<snip>
I have no experience with removing the GPS head or the VHF antenna.
Click to expand...

I am wondering which Raymarine radome you have, seahooked, because either you neglected to mention the eight-way plug or your radome isn't the usual 2kw 18" "Pathfinder" Radome that's connected to C-80/E-80 systems.

It's not difficult at all to remove and label everything else. The 8 way plug as described in the Raymarine installation manual is another matter entirely. Even as provided/prepared from the factory it is a bit of a struggle to get past the glan seal and into the radome. Most reputable installers shorten the cable anyway on installation, so they run the cable before either putting a new ($45) 8-way connector on or they carefully remove each pin from the connector using a special tool designed for that purpose then run the cable, shorten it, solder new pins on and insert them into the 8-way connector using yet another special tool designed for that particular size pin connector.

Yes, once unplugged in the Radome, one can bend the wires so the connector is parallel to the cable and wrap it with electrical tape (Raymarine uses shrink tubing) lubricate the wrap with some water soluble lubricant (KY Jelly in a pinch) (No remarks, Mike) and successfully pass it through both the gland and the arch. I spent a career both as an Electronic Tech and as a Test Engineer (Radar/ELINT)and I wouldn't do it without a spare connector and the tools to replace it if the plastic plug body breaks or cracks. It's frustrating to hunt down/buy the proper tools and connector, gather it all together and then do what amounts to a 20 minute job for a skilled tech, and the boat sits while you wait wait wait. Someone with little or no experience takes a risk. Yes it can be accomplished by "most people" but the risk is in direct proportion to that person's DIY experience and his personal relationship with "Murphy."



Don
 
I agree with what everybody's said, not that difficult. Heck, I've removed/replaced my radome SEVERAL times -- don't ask, but a hint, when mounting to a roof that's 1/4" thick, go SUPER-SIZE on the backing plate! I think mine is 14x24", seems OK. As others have said, just be gentle with the wiring inside the radome, not particularly robust but adequate.

Hey Don, didn't know you were into ELINT, so was I! Berlin wall came down, 1/2 our work disappeared... a good thing for the people, bad for business. :crook
 
Dora~Jean":2e0xm59p said:
Hey Don, didn't know you were into ELINT, so was I! Berlin wall came down, 1/2 our work disappeared... a good thing for the people, bad for business. :crook
Click to expand...

Think Korea fer our business. We we in St. Louis putting packages together for uh ... interested parties.

I use those super slick 3/8" kitchen cutting boards you can buy at Wally World for backing plates. They work a lot like Starboard but are way cheaper. Easy to cut to size but don't hold yer breath if you expect 3M adhesive sealants to work well with them.


Don
 
I am wondering which Raymarine radome you have, seahooked, because either you neglected to mention the eight-way plug or your radome isn't the usual 2kw 18" "Pathfinder" Radome that's connected to C-80/E-80 systems.
Click to expand...

Don,
I do have the Pathfinder radome and yes, I forgot about the eight pin connector. When I removed my radome I taped the connector parallel to the cable (as you mentioned) and passed it through the opening in the case. It went through easily but I did not have remove the cable from the arch tubing. Depending on how easy or difficult it would be to pass the taped up connector end through the tubing would probably be the determining factor in tackling this job. I concur with you that the average person would not want to remove the wires/pins from the connector without the correct tool.

Mike,
There shouldn't be anything in the gland assembly that needs replacing.
I was surprised to find my cable was undersized for the gland dimensions and had to add some tape to the cable to get a tight seal. I suspect that many others are the same way. When you remove the radome, just make sure the connector end is protected from the elements. As a separate thought, would you have enough clearance to remove just the radome from the arch (4 screws) and secure the radome below the arch without disconnecting the cable? If you could do that the job would be extremely easy. Just a thought.
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Thanks for all the info. I was looking at the Raymarine website, and it was very helpful. The antenna for the radio seems that all I need to is get a new PL-259 connector. I will probally go with the solder type and get some wiring tools, for future use. While on the Raymarine website the gps antenna was a bit more difficult. I will have to call Raymarine and see as where to get a new connector for the opposite end of the gps antenna. I think it was a 3 way connector. Regardless I wil not be able to pull either end of the gps through the radar arch. I want to learn all I can about my new boat wiring. I have had a Lund in the past and no fancy electronics, except for electric downriggers. Again thanks for all the help. I will take photos of the process with or without mistakes.
 
The Digital antennas come with a minature fitting which screws directly into a PL 259 fitting (the one which comes with the radio). Shakesphere Antennas may come with at crimp on VHF connector. There are too many instances of poor connection of the crimp on type of VHF PL 259 connectors for me to use them. I solder these connectors. You do have to have some good soldering skills, and understand the use of heat sinks. Get some help on this one, and observe, then learn to do the work yourself. You will have to put on more fittings down the line in your boating career.
 
The dealer made me a cable to lenght when I bought my ComRod. The crimped fitting they installed came off during installation (I was able to fix it). I requested a solder connection for the radio end to keep the through hole small. Go solder connections definetly. After talking to the tech (gave valuable advice) I was able to solder the connection easily without the use of a heat sink but using one couldn't hurt. Find somebody with a meter or buy one and test your work afterwards.
 
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