Question from the Desert

S

Salmon Slayer

New member
Greetings to all from the middle of a desert in the middle east where I find myself temporarily relocated for a years duty. I can confirm that there are NO C-Dorys to be seen along the coasts of Kuwait and Iraq.

I plan on redoing the interior of my 22' Classic (HOLLYMAY) using teak or mahogany plywood/dimensionable lumber (ex-sail boater here) to "warm up the interior" and I am wondering if anyone has done something similar or if anyone has any advice.

I plan on rebuilding the steering station and interior cabinitry mainly (moving the passender seat to a place equal to the helm seat, building a cabinet and counter behind for a kenyon counter top stove, maybe replacing the rear bulkhead etc) and then varnishing it.

My concern is weight, attaching cabinitry to the hull, etc. and though I am handy, wood work is not my strong suit so any input would be appreciated.

I am enjoying my C-Dory fix by logging on every time I can get to an internet site, thanks to all for posting.

Andy
 
Hi Andy, hope you're slaying more than Salmon over there. Keep your head down my friend!

As for the project, the older boats were made of a marine plywood with a teak veneer (or teaklike) for the interior fixtures. As long as you don't use more than 3/4" teak or mahogany, I would think the weight would be quite comparable. Not sure what you plan to use at the "steering station", I wouldn't recommend ripping out the fiberglass bulkhead that compromises it, unless you plan to remove the whole thing from port to starboard which looks, IMHO, as a massive undertaking. Maybe when I finally figure out how to retire again, I'll tackle somthing like that on Capt's Choice. I want to rewire it too.... Looks like a snake slept behind the steering bulkhead and left some nasty things behind, offends my sensibility but without time to accomplsih it, I just have to ignore it for now.

Good luck on the project, when you comin' home?

Charlie USN Ret.
 
I agree on the marine plywood weight thing. Not much is heavier than that glued wood. I did have done similar projects over the years and think you can save weight by using thinner (1/4 or 3/8 ") for the non-structural facings, etc.. Teak is very very strong, but it is hard on your saws, drill bits, etc., The mahogany is really too soft for much structural work in my experience.

You can order marine plywoods easily almost anywhere. Epoxy coating moisture prone areas helps alot.

good luck over there... we are pulling for you guys and appreciate your dedication and sacrifice! John
 
Thanks Charlie, I wont be home until late next summer but the combat pay is funding a lot of projects and trips to come.

My helm station is not fiberglass per se', its 3/4" plywood fiberglassed to the hull and it does not look like it would be that hard to remove though I am also considering applying a veneer. I too have to rewire and I figure it would make sense to do it all at once. C-Voyager has some great re-wiring photos he did on his 16' that are giving me inspiration.

My biggest fear is getting everything torn out and then having trouble bonding the replacement cabinitry to the hull/house. I am not sure if the oilyness of the wood would cause a problem with fileting, epoxying, 5200ing etc the various wood pieces.

Andy
 
If you are bonding teak to teak, nothing still beats the Rescorcinal two part glues. I have done comparisons with Rescorcinal and epoxy--the Res is slightly stronger--but more resistant to UV radiation. As for polyester tabbing the plywood to the hull, I would not do that with teak vineer--but would use epoxy with cloth. You can clean the teak with laquor thinner or acetone, and get a good epoxy bond. It is best to put about 1/2" of trapizoid shaped foam between the bulkhead and the hull. The foam works as the fillet, and keeps from having a hard place of the plywood against the hull (eliminating crazing etc). The foreward bulkhead does appear to be structural--so you will want to preplace it with equal strength material. 1/2" wood may be enough strenth for many areas, and lighter. Amatuer builders tend to over build (Guilty in the past) and boats end up being heavier than necessary for structural strength. I have rebuilt interiors of other boats, but not specfiically in the C Dory--it is not much different--and should be easy to rebuild. Great project to be planning while waiting for return.

Thanks for being there !
 
Allen-

Wow! If you look closely at that boat, it's a museum piece finished! That type of workmanshipis found in State Fair Projects. What a work of art!

Thanks for connecting us with it.

mdboomkin.jpg


Joe.
 
Wow, thanks all for the good wishes and advice. This is exactly what I needed. I am enjoying planning the projects and I appreciate the help. So many on this board have the technical and practical experience that save the rest of us from making a mess of things.

The Seaweed site looks interesting as well so that is very appreciated.

I also hope those of you in the PNW are safe from the floods, just saw that on AFN.
 
Your welcome Andy and Joe.

The guy is a madman. If you go to his home page http://thebilge.com/ you can check out a couple of other boats, including a 32' tug, that he has restored. I'm just amazed at his attention to detail. I love the chart table/head setup on the Seaweed. What an inovative use of limited space. Also, be sure to check out the LED lights that he installed on the Seaweed. Very cool.

Allen
 
Andy - I want to personally thank you for your duty in the Middle East. I believe men and women over there are doing a great service to this country and keeping us safer. Thank You.
 
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