Looks like a neat little boat. I would agree with Steve, that one of the synthetics (non stretch like Dyneema (Spectra, Amsteel Blue, etc) would be ideal for the shrouds. This is a 2/3 rig, and so you don't need the full mast height on the shrouds. I probably would keep wire for the forestay, because of abrasion...but there are some who have more expertise with synthetic rigging that I.
The synthetics can be spliced--so a thimble and toggle may be necessary for the upper termination. The lower will probably again a splice around a thimble, and either a series of lighter non stretch rigging or a turnbuckle--thru a toggle. Knots are difficult to secure. For example a bowline can be used, (Water Bowline is better) but then I would sew or at least put heat shrink adhesive tubing on the "tail".
The problem is that with any rigging on an 11 foot boat, has to be taken down and set up on a regular basis when the boat is transported. Usually dead eyes and lashing are used with these non stretch ropes. That is why you may still want to go with turnbuckles on the shrouds. The radius of the attachment must be at least the diameter of the line--and the length of the eye, if around a solid pin at least 3x the diameter of the line. A splice will retain close to 100% of the strength of the line. A knot will be 40 to 50% of the strength.
I would have at least an extra foot on each end for the splice. There are a number of good videos on the internet, for an eye splice. You want to be sure it is secure.
I have made several soft shackles from Dyneema and the splice is fairly easy. A locked Brummel splice is probably the best, but I would take a couple passes of Dacron thru the outer braid and core with a needle and tie it off, burn the ends. it to 100% lock the tail. (Or adhesive shrink wrap over an entry into the core).
I also use Dynemma for the "clothes line" which is over the galley in my 25. In that case I just tied bowlines and used adhesive shrink wrap over the tails. They don't have to be super tight.
Have fun sailing!
