Question about Raymarine st6002 autopilot malfunction...

[JamesTXSD]

We are having a problem with our new 6002 autopilot: the display beeps, fades, and the pilot cuts out. It may go a few hours without doing this (intermittant) or a few minutes. No difference in having any other equipment running. I couldn't find anything in the Raymarine manual for troubleshooting this situation.

One thing that does concern me: it came from the factory wired such that the power for the GPS is run though the dash switch for the autopilot. I questioned the reasoning for this with Scott Matthews when he was still with C-Dory, and I was told "that's the way they rig them." Seemed odd to me at the time, since there will be circumstances (like using the GPS as an anchor alarm) where you would NOT want the current draw from the autopilot (yes, I understand that it may be minimal on standby, but still doesn't make sense to me). You cannot use the GPS without the autopilot turned on.

Anyone else run into this situation? Any user resolution you can recommend? You would think that living on the Gulf, we would have a multitude of boat facilities, but it is mostly small open fishing boats around here without much in the way of electronics. The nearest Raymarine service dealer is about 160 miles away.

Of course, we are heading out for a 3-4 day trip tomorrow (planned to leave today, but I've been messing with this). Hand steering all the time, since when functioning, the autopilot is unreliable.

Thanks in advance for any light you can shed on this.

Best wishes,
Jim B.

 

[thataway]

Jim,
Its my belief that the factory wiring is not adequate for all of the electronics we put on the boats. I ran an additional two # 8 sets of wires from the batteries to the consol. One may well be enough--and put in a separate set of switches and bus bar for the heavy duty electronics. As the auto pilot pump runs, it may well be dropping down the voltage enough to kick off the pilot. Additional wiring is an easy way to both test and resolve the issue. You can put a good volt meter on the circuit to the auto pilot and the motor when the pilot motor is working under load. I suspect that you will see a significant voltage drop--if so, then increase the wiring (with breaker etc).

 

[JamesTXSD]

Hi Bob,
Thanks for the response. This "fading" of the display is happening even when the autopilot is on standby (assuming very little load here). We actually use the autopilot very little, but in order to have the GPS functioning, it has to be turned on. Not sure I feel qualified to re-wire this brand new boat... nor, considering the cost, should I have to. I haven't called the factory, yet; but have sent a couple e-mails that haven't been answered.

This is the first of this situation with three months of very regular usage. If the problem is one of inadequate wiring, would you expect this situation to show right away (not three months later)?

Thanks and best wishes,
Jim B.

 

[oldgrowth]

If the problem is one of inadequate wiring, would you expect this situation to show right away (not three months later)?

Jim – don’t know if it is a wiring problem but, if you have a slightly loose connection or get some corrosion in a connection, it can cause the problem three months down the line.

 

[journey on]

This isn't the best short term suggestion, but I'd call the Raymarine service dep't. They've been extremely helpful to me in the past. Their number is (from the owners handbook) 603.881.500, and ask for their 800 number. It may be a unit failure, and they're the ones who can help you.

I do agree, check the power first: loose connections, input voltage, etc.

Boris

 

[thataway]

Jim,
Not necessary to "rewire" the boat--just add a parallel set of wires, with second breaker, and a second buss bar with the individual switches--We put in 6 additional switches for the electronics--so that each group would be individual and fused separately. One of your comments (very valid) is that the auto pilot is switched thru the same switch as the GPS. I would not rig it that way.

I haven't discussed this with the factory, but added second wire, because I want good clean power to my electronics and find that a high percent of problem with electronics is power supply. Some 40 years ago, I blew an expensive (at that time) instrument because of voltage variation--figured it was better to be sure that wiring was adequate.

With #8 wire and a run of 35 feet (one calculates the run of both the positive and negitave wires) one can draw only 15 amps before the voltage drops 3%--45 to 50 amps with 10% voltage drop. (I am not even sure that the factory uses # 8, if they use # 10 wire then the numbers are: 8 amps for 3% and 30 amps for 10% voltage drop. Some electronics are more sensitative to volatage than others. Consider what the "normal" potential draw on the boat can be from running lights, windshield wipers, refigeration, pumps, etc--and it is easy to get to 10 amps--not much left over for electronics--which today can use a fair amount of power.

Generally if a problem appears in the "internals" of these types of electronics it will occur in the first 8 hours--so I would look at the outside probelms first. But you are certainly correct, that on standby, there should be little current drawn. I would still use the digital volt meter so you are sure that voltage is OK before you get on the phone. It is entirely possiable that there is some internal problem--but this is still where I would look for external probelms. For example, I pulled all of the fuses installed at the factory--there was some corrosion on the prongs and in the holders, because they had not been installed with protective grease--so I went around cleaned all of the fuse holders and properly protected the fuse contacts--and this is right out of the battery. Same for connections to the circuit breakers--spray or coat with a corrosion block. Check for the connections and possiable corrosion. It doesn't take long in the salt environment.